A Journey Through China: From Kunming to Shangri-La and Beyond

This trip took place in China from June 13th to 23rd, 2016, during a period of pleasant weather with temperatures hovering around 10 degrees Celsius. The itinerary began in Kunming, Yunnan Province, and progressed north to the trip's highlight, Yading National Park in Sichuan Province. From there, the journey continued southward, visiting Daocheng, Zhongdian (Shangri-La), Lijiang, and Dali before returning to Kunming for the flight back to Thailand.

Traveling solo without splitting taxi and food costs (especially the pricey yak hotpot) resulted in a total expenditure of 19,000 baht. This includes all expenses such as bus fares, train tickets, entrance fees, meals, accommodation, etc. Throughout the trip, I stayed at International Youth Hostels, which cost between 160 and 240 baht per night. The round-trip flight from Don Mueang to Kunming on AirAsia was purchased during a promotion for 1,200 baht. ;)

Day 1: Don Mueang - Kunming / Kunming City Tour / Overnight Bus to Shangri-La

We departed from Don Mueang Airport on an 8:00 AM flight, arriving in Kunming at 11:00 AM after a 2-hour journey. Due to the one-hour time difference between China and Thailand, we had 6-7 hours to explore Kunming before boarding a sleeper bus in the evening. The journey to Shangri-La took an additional 14 hours.

**Yuantong Temple** is the largest and oldest temple in Yunnan Province, built during the Tang Dynasty, with a history of over 1,200 years. It is the center of three Buddhist sects: Mahayana of Burma, Hinayana of Thailand, and Lamaism of Tibet. The interior features Qing Dynasty architecture, with an octagonal pavilion in the center of an emerald pool, which is home to a large number of turtles and fish.

Cuihu Park: A Tranquil Oasis in the Heart of Kunming

Cuihu Park, a sprawling green haven in the heart of Kunming, offers a serene escape from the city's bustle. Its tranquil atmosphere is enhanced by a picturesque lotus pond, a verdant bamboo forest, and a vibrant array of blooming flowers. Visitors can engage in various activities, from strolling through the park's winding paths to browsing its charming shops. The park also provides a glimpse into local culture, with elderly residents gathering to sing in harmony, practice graceful dance moves, engage in tai chi exercises, and play strategic games of Chinese checkers. Adding to the park's allure is a flock of red-billed gulls, migrating from the Siberian cold to find solace in Cuihu's warmth.

During our visit to Kunming, the Kunming Expo was conveniently located near the park. The event offered a wide variety of goods, including clothing and food.

Day 2: Visit and Stay at Shangri-La

The sleeper bus from Kunming arrives in Shangri-La at 9 am. We need to stop and visit here for a day before the bus to Daocheng, which only runs once a day in the early morning. This will also allow our bodies to adjust to the altitude and take a shower and rest after the long journey from Thailand.

Songzanlin Monastery (Little Potala Palace)

The Songzanlin Monastery (Little Potala Palace) is the largest Tibetan monastery in Yunnan Province, boasting a history of over 300 years. It is one of the 13 essential pilgrimage sites for Tibetan Buddhists, attracting over 700 resident lamas. Located approximately 4 kilometers north of Shangri-La, the monastery stands as a testament to Tibetan religious and cultural heritage.

**Zhongdian Old Town (Shangri-La)** is located in the southernmost part of the city center. It is full of restaurants, souvenir shops, and guesthouses. The streets are paved with cobblestones. In the evening, there are Tibetan folk performances in the main square. In early 2014, a major fire broke out in the old town, which is over 1,300 years old, destroying more than 200 buildings. The economic damage was estimated at 500 million baht, and important historical sites in the area were also destroyed, including the Tibetan prayer hall.

Two years have passed, and the ancient city of Jongtien has been almost completely restored. If you visit now, you will still see repairs being made everywhere, and houses that have been rebuilt in the original style.

The Sacred Tibetan Temple of Dafu Si

Dafu Si, a revered Tibetan temple, stands as a symbol of Shangri-La. Perched atop a hill, it is adorned with a colossal golden prayer wheel, requiring the combined effort of over 20 individuals to rotate. Despite the thin air and reduced oxygen levels at this altitude, we attempted to join others in turning the wheel three times. The exertion proved almost unbearable, leaving us gasping for breath.

From the top of the temple, one can see a 360-degree view of the old town's rooftops, along with a distant view of the high mountains. This is another stunning and unforgettable vista.

Day 3: Shangri-La - Daocheng / Overnight in Daocheng

The journey from Shangri-La to Daocheng was a long and arduous one, taking 10 and a half hours. The route was challenging, with steep climbs and descents, but the stunning views kept me awake throughout the entire trip.

The journey offers breathtaking views of valleys, snow-capped mountains, and Tibetan villages. Wildflowers, verdant rice paddies, and picturesque pine forests line the route.

Day 4: Taichung - Yading (Day 1) / Stay in Taichung

From Taichung, there are vans available to Yading. The journey takes 2 hours, and the van will drop you off at the ticket office building. A fee is charged, which includes the bus fare to the park entrance. From there, it's a 32 km bus ride up the mountain, taking another hour, to reach the park entrance.

Our two-day journey through Yading National Park begins on the right side, where we will visit Pearl Lake, admire the views from the 6,032-meter Xiannairi Peak, and explore the 800-year-old Chonggu Monastery.

Ya Tieng Garden briefly explains the origin of the word "Shangri-La," which is a fictional land in the famous novel Lost Horizon by James Hilton. The novel describes Shangri-La as a mysterious land located in the high, rugged mountains, west of the Kunlun Mountains. It is said that the people who live there have long lives and are happy. It could be said that this place is like heaven on earth. This land was discovered in 1920 and reached Ya Tieng in 1928. His photographs were published in 60 pages of National Geographic magazine.

The Myth of Shangri-La: Untangling Fact from Fiction

The allure of Shangri-La, a mythical Himalayan utopia, has captivated imaginations for decades. However, the true location of this paradise remains shrouded in mystery. While numerous cities have laid claim to the title, the evidence suggests a more nuanced reality.

The name "Shangri-La" first appeared in James Hilton's 1933 novel, "Lost Horizon." The book depicts a hidden valley nestled in the Himalayas, where time stands still and inhabitants live in harmony with nature. This idyllic portrayal sparked a global fascination with Shangri-La, leading to a quest to locate its real-world counterpart.

Among the contenders, Zhongdian, a city in China's Yunnan province, emerged as a frontrunner. In 2001, the city officially changed its name to Shangri-La, capitalizing on the tourism potential associated with the mythical land. However, photographic evidence suggests that the landscape depicted in Hilton's novel more closely resembles Riwa, a village within the Yading Nature Reserve.

Despite the name change, the true Shangri-La likely remains a figment of imagination. Riwa, with its stunning natural beauty and remote location, may offer the closest glimpse into the idyllic world envisioned by Hilton. Yet, the allure of Shangri-La lies not in its physical location, but in the timeless values it represents: peace, harmony, and a connection to nature.

In conclusion, the search for Shangri-La highlights the human desire for utopia and the power of storytelling. While the mythical city may not exist in reality, its enduring legacy serves as a reminder of the values we strive for in our own lives.

Day 5: Taichung - Yading (Day 2) / Stay in Taichung

The journey to Yading will be the same as yesterday, but today you won't have to pay any more fees. This is because the ticket you bought yesterday is valid for two days of entry to the park. You will only have to pay an additional fee for the park bus.

Yading National Park

The highlight of this trip was the 10km+ hike in Yading National Park, with an altitude of almost 5,000 meters and thin oxygen. Our destination was the Milk Lake and the Five-Color Lake. We also had a small hope of seeing Mount Everest from here if the sky was clear… honestly, we didn't even know where it was located.

The Breathtaking Journey: A Hike Through Lush Meadows

The scenery along the trail was breathtaking. We stopped frequently to capture the beauty with our cameras, all the while enjoying the camaraderie of our fellow hikers. When fatigue set in, we took breaks to rest and share snacks, even offering some to the local workers who were diligently paving the road for our convenience. We exchanged words of encouragement with those we passed along the way, feeling a sense of unity in the shared experience.

The initial anxieties we had, fueled by reviews describing frequent instances of getting lost due to a lack of signage and people, completely vanished. We suspect this might be the case during the snowy season when the landscape transforms into a white expanse, obscuring the path. However, our June visit, with its pleasant weather and lush green meadows devoid of snow, offered a clear and well-defined trail, making it impossible to lose our way.

Day 6: Daocheng - Shangri-La / Overnight in Shangri-La

Today's journey was almost identical to the review on the 3rd day, Shangri-La - Daoceng. We took the same route back, saw the same views, and stopped at the same rest stops and restrooms. The only difference was that the road was rougher due to heavy rainfall the previous night, causing rocks to slide onto the road. The constant jolting made for an uncomfortable ride.

The journey offered breathtaking views of valleys, snow-capped mountains, and Tibetan villages. Wildflowers, verdant rice paddies, and picturesque pine forests lined the route, mirroring the scenery we encountered on day three of our arrival.

On the way back, the driver stopped the car at a scenic viewpoint in the mountains so we could get out and take pictures.

Day 7: Shangri-La - Explore Baishuitai Terraces / Overnight at Tiger Leaping Gorge

Note: This translation is concise and simple, focusing on the key information of the original sentence. It avoids unnecessary details and maintains a formal tone.

There is a bus from Shangri-La to Baishuitai via Haba Snow Mountain in the morning at 09:10. It takes 3 hours to get there. It takes about 1-2 hours to walk around, and then you can find a carpool with Chinese tourists to continue to Tiger Leaping Gorge. It takes about 1:30 hours to get there. Pay the entrance fee to Tiger Leaping Gorge and then check in at Tina's guesthouse.

The Pai Su Waterfall is a cascading waterfall with white travertine rocks. These rocks are formed by the deposition of calcium carbonate from hot springs, similar to those found in Pamukkale, Turkey.

The view along the way from Bai Shui Tai to Tiger Leaping Gorge offers stunning vistas of Haba Snow Mountain, Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, and Tiger Leaping Gorge itself. This route boasts some of the most breathtaking scenery in the region.

Day 8: Tiger Leaping Gorge - Lijiang / Overnight in Lijiang Old Town

From Tina's Guesthouse, a free shuttle will take you to the starting point of the hike, approximately 3 km away. The hike down to the river and back up the mountain takes about 3 hours. There are entrance fees at the starting point and at the Monkey Stairs. After returning to Tina's Guesthouse, a shuttle will take you to Lijiang at 3:30 PM, arriving in the Lijiang Old Town after about 2 hours. There is an entrance fee for the Old Town. After checking into your hostel, you can explore the Old Town and book a tour to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain for the next day.

**Tiger Leaping Gorge** is a 15-kilometer-long canyon above the Yangtze River, located where the river flows between the 5,596-meter-high Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and the 5,396-meter-high Haba Snow Mountain. This area features rapid currents and towering cliffs that reach 2,000 meters in height. According to legend, a tiger escaped hunters by leaping across the river at its narrowest point (25 meters wide), hence the name of the gorge. Tiger Leaping Gorge is also one of the deepest river canyons in the world.

The Old Town of Lijiang: A Historical Gem

The Old Town of Lijiang, with its 800-year history, stands apart from other ancient Chinese cities due to its unique architecture, rich history, and distinct culture. This captivating town, once home to the Naxi people, has earned the moniker "Venice of the East" and is proudly recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Lijiang's Old Town meticulously preserves its historical charm. Cobblestone paths wind through the town, leading past traditional Chinese wooden buildings. Crystal-clear streams flow beneath many houses, and ancient stone arch bridges add to the picturesque scene.

Day 9:

  • Morning: Embark on a one-day tour to the Blue Moon Valley and the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.
  • Evening: Relax and spend the night in the ancient city of Lijiang.

From the hostel reception, we were escorted to the tour bus meeting point. We departed from Lijiang Old Town and made a stop along the way to pick up winter clothes, oxygen cans, and snacks. However, due to the overwhelming number of Chinese tourists, our group was assigned a later time slot for the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain cable car. Consequently, our itinerary was adjusted to visit the Blue Moon Valley first, followed by a hot pot lunch with a cultural performance. We finally boarded the cable car at 5 pm, giving us only 1.5 hours to explore the mountain. As a result, the trip concluded at 8:30 pm instead of the scheduled 4 pm.

The Blue Moon Valley

The Blue Moon Valley is a breathtaking natural wonder characterized by its snow-capped peaks and a crystal-clear river flowing through its depths. The valley's name originates from the mesmerizing blue hue of the river, which is attributed to the melting snow from the surrounding mountains.

Accessible by cable car, the valley offers stunning panoramic views from its summit. The cascading waterfalls and the pristine river provide a picturesque backdrop, making it a popular destination for pre-wedding photoshoots.

The Majestic Jade Dragon Snow Mountain

Nestled in the northwestern region of Lijiang's Old Town, the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain stands as a towering sentinel, its thirteen snow-capped peaks resembling a majestic dragon. This iconic landmark, with its highest peak, Shanzidu, reaching an impressive 5,596 meters above sea level, holds the distinction of being the closest snow-capped mountain to Thailand. Its unique location, situated at the lowest latitude in the Northern Hemisphere above the equator, further adds to its allure.

Day 10: Explore Lijiang and Dali, then return to Kunming on a sleeper train.

Early in the morning, I walked from the hostel in Lijiang Old Town to the Black Dragon Pool, which is 1.4 km away. I showed the ticket I paid for when entering Lijiang Old Town, so I didn't have to pay an additional entrance fee. After visiting the temple, I called a taxi to Lijiang Bus Station. There was a bus to Dali at 9:30 am, which took about 2.5 hours. I arrived at Dali Railway Station and bought a hard sleeper ticket back to Kunming. The only remaining train was at 8:50 pm, and all other options were hard seats. I had half a day left to explore Dali. After that, I took the hard sleeper train back to Kunming, which took about 7 hours.

Black Dragon Pool: A Serene Oasis in Lijiang

The Black Dragon Pool, situated approximately 1.4 kilometers north of Lijiang's Old Town, encompasses an area of roughly 11,390 square meters. This picturesque pool is renowned for its crystal-clear emerald waters, reflecting the surrounding natural beauty. The gardens surrounding the pool showcase a unique blend of architectural styles, harmoniously integrating elements of Han, Tibetan, and Naxi cultures.

**Three Pagodas Temple** is located about 1 km north of the ancient city of Dali. Behind the pagoda is the majestic Cangshan Mountain, and in front is the beautiful and vast Erhai Lake, known as the "Pearl of the Plateau." It is the largest temple in southwest China, with 11,400 Buddha statues.

Day 11: Kunming - Don Mueang

The final day of the trip has arrived. After a comfortable sleep on the train from Dali, we arrived in Kunming around 4:00 AM. Walking out of the train station, there are many taxis waiting in front. You can take a taxi directly back to the airport. However, if your flight is in the afternoon or evening, you can still explore Kunming city.

A Glimpse into an 11-Day Solo Trip to China

This is a brief overview of my 11-day solo trip to China. Due to the extensive details regarding expenses and travel logistics, I plan to create a more comprehensive review in multiple parts. This will be particularly helpful for those interested in independent travel, especially as a solo female traveler.

If you don't speak Chinese, we have some tips for you. "How to backpack in China without knowing a word of Chinese" is available at this link: http://www.chilljourney.com/tips-เที่ยวเมืองจีน/

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