It is said that "people who travel alone are not escaping love, escaping the chaos of life, or escaping their mothers." Coincidentally, I am a special case, so I will summarize all of them at once! (Mid-October, late rainy season, early winter at Phu Kradueng National Park)
I woke up on a day that could be called a "hangover" after a long time without alcohol. I opened my eyes with a feeling of grogginess and reached for my phone out of habit before opening it to check if anyone had contacted me. "Silence"... It's no surprise, I chose to be alone. So I decided to check the news instead. My fingers pressed the Facebook button and I lifted a bottle of water to quench my thirst... Gulp!!! ... The water almost shot out of my mouth when I saw my junior checking in at Phu Kradueng. I had talked to him about wanting to go, and he went ahead of me!! Damn it!!! What should I do? I wanted to go, but if I go this time, I'll be going solo. I sat down to analyze the feasibility of going, got up to check the tent reservations on Phu Kradueng... Website crashed ... I called the officer and he said that it's still possible to go now because there aren't many people, but after this, during the weekend, don't even think about coming because it's overflowing... I hung up the phone before throwing myself back on the bed... What should I do?! ... I asked myself. In reality, the wound in my heart isn't like a blister that can be healed with a dab of Tonaf. The smell of blood is still fresh. "Physical wounds can be healed with medicine, but emotional wounds take time." But as a man who chose this path myself, do I have the right to complain? ... No ... So I pondered the advice that says if you have a wound in your heart, if you can't go to the mountains, then go to the sea. Of course, my choice was Phu Kradueng without a doubt. So I decided... Alright!! Come what may, let's go and face the consequences. Hooray!!! ...
I packed my bags and headed to the Nakhon Ratchasima Bus Terminal 2 to catch the midnight bus. However, due to a slight miscalculation, I ended up waiting for two hours. I couldn't believe it! Fortunately, I had the opportunity to chat with a monk and a religious teacher who were also traveling to Loei Province. We talked for two hours straight before boarding the bus. Before we left, they gave me amulets for protection and good luck in business and safety. They said they felt a connection with me and wanted me to have them for protection. Amen. Well, the engine started, and we were off!
I drifted in and out of sleep throughout the journey. I didn't want to fall asleep completely and miss my stop, but I was also worried that the driver might forget to wake me up and take me further than I intended. Our destination for this trip was **Ngao Khao Viewpoint**, located opposite **Jay Kim's shop**. I checked my GPS every time I woke up to make sure we hadn't passed it, then turned it off to save battery. Finally, I jolted awake for the last time as the bus came to a halt. I was certain this was the right place because it looked so familiar. I grabbed my bag and jumped off the bus immediately. **There it was, the legendary Jay Kim's shop.**
It is currently 4:00 AM. "I arrived too early," the food is not ready yet... I walked into the shop with a very zombie-like face to find a drink to quench my thirst, but it just so happened that when my eyes caught sight of the food, oh my, I'm hungry... It's no wonder I'm hungry, before I came out I hadn't stuffed anything in to give my stomach something to digest, so while I wait, I'll have some instant noodles to keep me alive.
After I was full, it was time to find a place to charge my battery. There was a battery charging service here for 20 baht, but I didn't want to pay for it. I walked to my car and noticed a police station... heaven ... Of course, there were free plugs and drinking water available. I didn't hesitate to plug it in immediately!!! ... After plugging it in, I sat and waited for a while until I heard them set up the food service. What was I waiting for? The instant noodles wouldn't stay there. We had to walk many more kilometers. It would be best to stock up for safety's sake. Otherwise, I might faint.
The food was decent and worth the 35 baht. I devoured it quickly to prepare for my onward journey. As I swallowed the last bite, I saw people getting on a shared taxi. "Hey, where are you going? I'm coming too!"
This is the car that will take us to Phu Kradueng. It's easy to find, parked in a row next to Je Kim's shop. The price, if full with 10 people, will be around 30 baht per person. But if you're impatient or tired of waiting, you can negotiate to share the cost. 300 baht is possible. The car I'm in has 8 passengers already, and we're tired of waiting for the rest. So we decided to share the cost and head to Phu Kradueng. Yay!!!
The distance from Jek Kim to Phu Kradueng is not as close as I thought. It took a long time to get here, through the fog, the cold, and the exhaust fumes of the cars. But in the end, we arrived at Phu Kradueng National Park.
The park opens at 7:00 AM, which is the time when staff members begin work. Arriving before this time gives you an advantage in reserving a spot to purchase a ticket for the park's walking trail. The entrance fee is 40 baht per person. If you do not have a tent (which I did not), the park offers tent rentals for 225 baht per night, which can accommodate up to three people. Payment for tents and other sleeping equipment is made at the tourist service center located at the top of the park. Therefore, arriving early gives you the best chance of securing a tent rental.
(The deserted scene before 7:00 a.m.)
When the time came, I was the first to volunteer, with a strong determination to overcome obstacles and find the nature I had always dreamed of. So I quickly bought a ticket and walked away, leaving all my worries behind... From now on, let me indulge myself a little. ...
Before the climb, there was a motivational sign that seemed to say, "You've come this far, there's no turning back now, fight on!" In my mind, I was still completely relaxed, due to my own carelessness... I forgot that the last time I was here was almost 10 years ago. Now my body is not as fit as it used to be... The climb up Phu Kradueng can be divided into two main sections of difficulty:
- Sam Haek - The name itself suggests that you will definitely be panting. The walk to this resting point is not easy, as it is constantly uphill and the steepness is a real challenge. Therefore, if you don't plan to conserve your energy, you're sure to be gasping for breath by the time you reach this point.
- After the last Sam - Porters call it the narrow rock passage. You need climbing skills to navigate the piles of rocks that are scattered and uneven all the way. Combined with the steepness and slipperiness of some of the rocks, a lot of your energy will be used up here. And then there's the infamous Red Staircase waiting to welcome tourists to test their leg muscles. Let me tell you, it's going to be painful!
This is the path leading up to Phu Kradueng... Along the way, I barely took any photos, too busy struggling to survive. I honestly don't know how to accurately describe how tiring it was. Let's just say, you have to experience it for yourself at least once.
This location offers porter services, known as "luk haab," for 30 baht per kilogram. I opted not to use this service this time around, as I wanted to fully experience being a backpacker. However, if you are traveling with an elderly individual who is unable to climb, porter services are available for a price that is commensurate with their weight.
As you journey, if you are not in a hurry or too tired, take a moment to observe your surroundings. You will witness the beauty of nature that cannot be found in the city. Besides the physical exertion, this is what Phu Kradueng offers you... the breathtaking beauty of nature.
The ants here are large, like other insects, so it's best not to get bitten. It is recommended that you observe the ground carefully before sitting down to prevent your buttocks from swelling. Otherwise, don't say I didn't warn you.
Tourists who pass each other here often don't get very far ahead. For example, I was sitting down to rest when I saw people passing me. When I continued walking, I would find them sitting down to rest. We kept switching places like this. If you don't want to rest at all, I suggest you apply to be an Iron Man!
Beyond the breathtaking natural scenery, genuine camaraderie can also blossom here. I encountered two young men from Bangkok who were traveling together as a duo, despite not being romantically involved. They had been ditched by their friends, but fate intervened, and they struck up a conversation with me. We hit it off, and decided to continue our journey together, embracing the wisdom that "three heads are better than one."
Reaching Sam Haek, aptly named for its steep climb, required a refreshing drink to replenish lost fluids. With renewed energy, we continued our journey, backpacks firmly in tow. Onward!
Upon reaching the second resting point, my body began to protest vehemently. Fatigue had fully replaced my initial fitness, and the weight of my luggage and camera bag grew heavier with each step. The image below serves as a testament to my exhaustion.
I wish I could improve my appearance, but I'm exhausted right now. My veins are practically bulging. Like other tourists, I'll probably need to rest to conserve energy.
Weary but determined, the three of us continued our trek, two young men and one almost-young man, carrying our bodies forward. We agreed to rest along the way if we couldn't go on. A small trick for climbing Phu Kradueng is to avoid stairs whenever possible. Walking up a slope is easier than climbing stairs. Try it and see.
A quick selfie during a break...
Each pond offers stunning views for relaxation and rejuvenation, providing solace and tranquility.
If you are one of the few who have survived to the final stretch... congratulations... you are entering a narrow, rocky passage that I consider to be another death trap. Due to the narrow and challenging path, I was unable to take any pictures as I was busy trying to stay alive. 555+
However, this is truly unavoidable! While the photos may not do it justice, the real thing will undoubtedly make anyone with a fear of heights tremble. It's also a fantastic workout, but most importantly, it doesn't end there. There are numerous staircases waiting to greet tourists... So be prepared for sore legs! 55+
After barely surviving the trek, I collapsed, dropping everything, including my own body, onto the ground. I was utterly exhausted, having never experienced such fatigue before. The total distance covered was approximately 5.5 kilometers uphill! This is unlike walking on flat ground, where some women can easily walk several kilometers a day while shopping.
Above is a map and photo points to serve as encouragement before continuing the journey for approximately 3 kilometers to reach the camp.
At this point, there was no turning back. We had to endure the remaining 3 kilometers to reach our accommodation, even though our legs were starting to give out. But what could we do? We had come this far, so we had to see it through! My companions and I walked on like our souls had left our bodies, braving the sunlight, the cool wind, and the occasional rain all the way. It was a true test of our physical limits, but nothing could stop us from reaching our tents at this point.
And finally, we arrived at the "camping site" with our belongings. At this point, our fatigue began to fade away completely, perhaps because we were so happy that we didn't know how to explain it. I immediately rushed to reserve a tent.
This location serves as a central hub for all your needs, including broadcasting announcements, gathering participants, paying for tents and bedding, and even charging your devices. It's truly a one-stop shop. After receiving your receipt, proceed to the tent distribution area at the back, where you can use your ID card as collateral. You can then choose from the pre-pitched military-style tents. Oh, and I almost forgot: **the bedding set, which includes a pillow, sleeping bag, and sleeping mat, costs only 60 baht! Unless absolutely necessary, avoid bringing your own bedding – it's heavy!**
My siblings and I stayed in adjacent tents for convenience and ease of travel. We planned to shower and rest before heading to Pha Mak Duk to watch the sunset. Despite the chilly water, we didn't mind, as we had been drenched in sweat throughout the journey. A shower was a necessity.
After a short nap, I woke up and called the others to get ready for the next leg of our journey. Today, we were going to watch the sunset to relax and recharge!
The trail led away from the camp for about 2 kilometers, passing through a dense forest that perfectly evoked the atmosphere of Jurassic Park. Aside from pine trees, ferns dominated the undergrowth, creating a lush and verdant carpet.
Beyond the forest, there are more forests and forests as far as the eye can see, which is a very good thing. It's better than encountering elephants in this area. 55+
We finally arrived at Pha Mak Duk. We sat and waited for the sunset, taking our time to relax and let the fatigue fade away. And it truly did vanish as the sun dipped below the horizon. The cool breeze caressed our faces, and the fresh air allowed our bodies and minds to fully unwind. ... I'm sorry we couldn't be here together as promised. ...
As the sun dipped below the horizon, the sky darkened, and stars replaced the clouds. The sight was breathtaking, but unfortunately, I couldn't capture it on camera. Trust me, it's worth seeing in person. The air grew cooler, but not cold, as our continuous walking kept us warm. As we continued our journey, we stumbled upon a spider that resembled a tarantula! It was about the size of a hand, and I was shocked. My manliness vanished in that instant. It scurried past my leg, its hairs reflecting the flashlight beam in a light brown hue. My friend and I quickly retreated, our hearts pounding.
We arrived at the tent around 8:00 PM. Everyone went their separate ways to sleep. Note: Check for leeches before going to bed, or you might end up with a leech sucking your blood while you sleep!
"Tourists who are going to watch the sunrise, please be ready at the service center in 15 minutes," the officer shouted. I shouted to wake my friends up from their "dead sleep." We walked drowsily, as if our souls had not yet returned to our bodies, to gather together. The procession set off at exactly 5:00 AM. Tourists walked in a line along the path to experience the warmth and beauty of the first light of day.
The wind is strong, blowing continuously against our backs, making them numb. It is recommended to bring a thick coat, as the weather is quite harsh for those who are not accustomed to the cold. Up here, you can easily see the mist being blown by the wind, as well as the lights on the ground shining in the distance. It's an incredibly cool atmosphere.
We waited patiently for the first light of day, and once again, Nakae Nok Aen did not disappoint.
After basking in the glory of the sunset, it was time to head back to camp, a journey of approximately 2 kilometers. Along the way, the natural beauty continued to unfold, offering stunning views at every turn. Let's embark on this scenic return trip and witness the wonders of nature.
While I was eating, a deer named Kwang came over to say hello. It was incredibly tame, so tame that it even walked over when I flicked my finger at it!
After lunch, we dispersed to our tents to gather our strength for another round. Today, we will embark on the most challenging hike we have ever undertaken: a journey to Pha Lom Sak, covering a **total round-trip distance of over 30 kilometers!!!**
The sun's rays, scorching the tent at 9:00 AM, jolted me awake. I couldn't help but be startled by the sound of Ta Do's voice, urging us to rise before the appointed time. We decided to expedite our departure to avoid the restricted shortcut, as 3:00 PM marked the time when wild elephants emerged, posing a potential threat. After all, these were wild elephants, not kittens, and I, for one, was not taking any chances!
A selfie before the journey begins....
We gathered around the map at approximately 10:00 AM to plan our journey. We were eager to see the waterfall, especially since we had come during the late rainy season to ensure there would be water flowing. This was an opportunity we couldn't miss!
The most familiar sight along the way was the forest. Everywhere you looked, there were trees. It was strictly forbidden to stray from the path, as doing so could lead to getting lost or encountering wild animals or venomous creatures that would not hesitate to attack if their territory was invaded.
The first place we will visit is Wang Kwang Waterfall. Let's go see the beauty of this place. Note: Pictures cannot capture the beauty as well as our own eyes, so visit once and you will know it's worth it!!!
Time to move on from this spot and explore other areas. We don't want to run out of time.
The next stop is the Lan Phra Phutthametta, a site where King Rama IX once paid respects to the Phra Phutthametta Buddha statue. It is a place of great beauty.
This is... a muscular dog! ... You can find it everywhere, even in the sinkholes. You can say that he goes everywhere around the mountain. Very strong!
Alright... After paying respects to the Buddha and feeling refreshed, let's continue our journey!
At this point, devices called speakers began to play a role. When the music started, it helped people forget their fatigue to some extent… Now, let's move on to the Big Cave Waterfall.
The unique feature of this waterfall is the protruding rocks that resemble cliffs and buttresses. It's hard to describe, so it's better to see it for yourself.
The image may not be very clear, but I really don't have the energy to carry a tripod... After enjoying the atmosphere, let's move on, what are we waiting for?
The most prominent feature along the trail is the abundance of pine cones, scattered like seashells on a beach.
Unfortunately, the maple leaves are still green. Therefore, we won't be able to see them fall to the ground in their vibrant orange hues and capture them in photographs. As the saying goes, "You can't have your cake and eat it too."
Water is another essential item that should not be forgotten. It is crucial to manage your water intake effectively, as there are no opportunities to purchase water along the trail until you reach Pha Lom Sak. Therefore, avoid excessive consumption and opt for sipping instead.
After a short walk, you will reach a relaxing and picturesque spot, the Anothat Pond.
Only 5.5 km left. Keep going!!!
This route is extremely dangerous after 3:00 PM. According to officials, there have been numerous fatalities due to encounters with wild elephants. It is highly recommended to avoid this route after the specified time for your safety.
Just like in the movies!!!
As I continued walking, I approached the Tham Sua North Waterfall. Upon arrival, I had to remove my shoes and soak my feet in the water. The pain in the front of my soles had begun to bother me, making walking more difficult and increasing my energy expenditure by 20%. This was due to the need to switch from using the front of my feet to using the outer edges.
This place reminds me of the movie The Lord of the Rings. It gives me the same feeling as Frodo when he throws away the ring. The difference is that I am only throwing away my sadness.
Tourists should protect the forest. Therefore, this is not acceptable.
This time, I'll have to take a long break because my feet really can't take it anymore. It's like I'm stuck in a situation where I can't turn back, but I can't keep going either.
The remaining distance of 3.2 km seems incredibly long.
Behold, the scenic view! (When you want to include a picture of yourself in the review)
After a much-needed rest, we gritted our teeth and continued our trek until we reached the **"Pha Lom Sak"**. At that moment, the song "We Are The Champions" echoed in our ears. We had survived!
This place offers free hammocks on a first-come, first-served basis.
Please heed the warnings.
A popular spot for tourists to visit. Standing here, you will feel the thrill of the height.
Unfortunately, we are out of luck today. Due to the rain, we will not be able to watch the sunset.
As mentioned, even though we were enjoying the natural beauty, the rain started to pour, scattering the tourists who were forced to seek shelter. We could only wait and hope that after the rain stopped, we might still be able to catch a glimpse of the sunset.
I managed to reach the tent safely, but my feet are killing me! I'm going to rest in the hopes that I'll feel better tomorrow, as I need to travel back.
Tonight, as always, only the light of the lamp keeps me company.
...............
The alarm clock woke me up, and the tour guide asked me to watch the sunrise. Oh my God! I couldn't fall asleep after waking up. What a bad luck... I tossed and turned for a while with a shivering body, and then decided to get up and pack my things. We are going to leave this place...
The morning commute not only allows you to breathe in the fresh air and mist, but also lets you encounter nature painted with a light mist, giving it a different kind of vibe. ^^
Time for the last selfie before jumping into the volcano!
While descending Mount Mugman, it is essential to wear appropriate footwear. However, during the descent, one may feel the urge to remove all clothing due to the intense heat and fatigue. The descent differs significantly from the ascent in terms of muscle engagement. While ascending, the thighs bear the brunt of the effort, supporting the body's weight. Conversely, during the descent, the calves and hips work to prevent falling forward. In my case, the most challenging aspect was the inability to use my left foot, which caused excruciating pain upon weight-bearing. Consequently, I had to rely heavily on my right foot, leading to severe postural imbalances. If descending in the morning, as I did, it is advisable to proceed cautiously on the narrow, slippery rocks due to moisture. A misstep could result in a broken leg, and seeking assistance would necessitate being carried down the mountain. Therefore, prioritizing safety is paramount.
During my descent, I encountered many friendly faces along the way. I started my descent alone, but it was incredibly relaxing (the kids were still asleep, so I left early). My only thought was to get down as quickly as possible so I could return home, rest, and survive! ... Along the way, everyone kept asking me how much further it was. Should I give them encouragement or the truth? Hahahaha! For me, ascending and descending are not that different. Both are incredibly tiring. However, descending is not as tiring as ascending. It took me 5 hours to descend from the camp, arriving at the bottom at 11:00 am. The first thing I did was rush to take a shower in the bathroom provided by the park for free!
I walked to find a car back to Jae Kim. If I didn't get a private car, I would have to wait for 9 more people to come down. I'll take it! Otherwise, why would I rush down to burn the eggplant? I want to go home already!!! 300 is 300 then!!! When I arrived at Jae Kim, the car to Korat just arrived. I didn't have to eat khao khluk anymore, so I got on the car and waited for nothing.
And this is the first meal I've had. Tears are about to fall. It's so delicious (free on the bus).
This trip has brought me not only joy, friendship, and a chance to recharge my batteries, but also the realization that happiness and suffering are intertwined. It all depends on our perspective. And if things get tough, don't give up. Don't let yourself lie in bed, doing nothing, and let your spirit dwindle. For me, I choose to recharge in the embrace of the mountains. What about you? Don't overthink it. We don't know how much time we have left. Make the most of it, embrace new experiences, and you'll discover that there's so much more to learn in this world. Hello! P.S. Feel free to ask questions in the comments below. I'll be happy to answer if I can. Bye!
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Friday, September 27, 2024 10:27 AM