I vividly recall watching a 72 Hours episode hosted by Ray MacDonald, where he showcased the captivating limestone mountains flanking the Mekong River as seen from the banks of Nakhon Phanom province. The sheer beauty and allure of those mountains ignited a yearning within me to explore and experience the hidden treasures nestled between the peaks and the mighty Mekong. It was then that I made a silent vow: "One day, I will cross over and visit this enchanting land."

During my five-day work trip to Nakhon Phanom province, I decided to arrive two days early to explore the towns of Thakhek and Nakhon Phanom. With limited time, I spent one night in Thakhek before returning to Nakhon Phanom for further exploration. Let's discover what I experienced during this short but memorable trip.

Our journey began at Don Mueang Airport, where we boarded Nok Air flight DD9514, which departed at 10:05 AM and arrived at Nakhon Phanom Airport at 11:15 AM on a Saturday morning.

There are two airlines that offer flights to Nakhon Phanom Province:

Nok Air Flight Schedule

Nok Air operates two daily flights between Don Mueang and Chiang Mai. Flights depart Don Mueang at 10:05 AM and 5:40 PM, arriving in Chiang Mai at 11:45 AM and 7:30 PM, respectively. The return flights depart Chiang Mai at 12:25 PM and 6:10 PM, arriving in Don Mueang at 1:45 PM and 7:30 PM. The flight duration is approximately 1 hour and 20 minutes.

2. Air Asia operates two daily flights between Don Mueang and Chiang Mai. Departures from Don Mueang are at 08:30 and 15:10, while return flights depart Chiang Mai at 10:10 and 17:00. The flight duration is approximately 1 hour and 15 minutes.

Transportation from Nakhon Phanom Airport to Nakhon Phanom city center, which is approximately 17 kilometers away, is available via van services that deliver passengers directly to their accommodations for 100 baht per person. The service counter is located in front of the exit door from the baggage claim area.

The journey to the city center of Nakhon Phanom takes approximately 15 minutes.

Arriving just in time for lunch, we stopped by T. Roasted Duck Restaurant.

Tender duck meat with rich sauce and flavorful broth.

After finishing our meal, we left our luggage containing work clothes at The P Hometel Hotel & Cafe, our accommodation for Sunday night after returning from Thakhek. We chose this hotel because it is located just 100 meters from the immigration checkpoint, which is the ferry port to Thakhek city.

We brought a small backpack to carry our clothes and essentials for the overnight stay at Tha Khaek, making our journey more convenient. After leaving our bags, we took a short walk to the clock tower for some photos, as it was located near the pier.

Today marks the first day of the year when the cool breeze blows through, bringing a comfortable chill to the air. The sky is clear and exceptionally bright.

This is the legendary view that I have only seen on TV before. Today, I finally get to see it with my own eyes. It feels good to my heart.

Crossing the Border to Thakhek: Two Options

There are two ways to travel to Thakhek:

1. Ferry: Take a ferry from the Tourist Boat Pier, which serves as the immigration checkpoint. It operates daily from 8:00 AM to 6:00 PM.

• Passport holders: Simply fill out an immigration form and cross.
• Non-passport holders: Obtain a temporary border pass at the Temporary Border Pass Issuance Service located next to the checkpoint. You will need your national ID card and a fee of approximately 36 baht for weekdays and 47 baht for weekends. This pass allows a 3-day, 2-night stay in Khamkeut District only.

Important note: This border crossing is only open to Thai and Lao nationals.

Foreigners must cross at the Third Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge, which is the second method available to everyone. It is open from 6:00 AM to 10:00 PM. You can drive across yourself or take the Nakhon Phanom-Tha Khaek bus from the Nakhon Phanom city bus terminal. The fare is 70 baht per person, with an additional 5 baht on weekends. The first bus leaves at 8:00 AM and the last bus leaves at 5:30 PM. The journey takes approximately 1 hour (excluding time spent at the border, which may vary depending on the number of people using the service). Temporary border passes can be obtained at the checkpoint for the same fee as at the pier. These passes are valid for 3 days and 2 nights and are only valid for Kham Muon District.

The Most Convenient Way to Cross the River

The most convenient way to cross the river is by ferry. The fare is 60 baht per person per trip. The first ferry departs at 8:30 AM and the last ferry departs at 6:00 PM.

Ferry Schedule:

• 8:30 AM - 2:30 PM: Departures every 30 minutes
• 3:00 PM - 6:00 PM: Departures every hour or as soon as the ferry is full.

You can get your departure card at the ferry ticket booth. Then fill in your departure information and submit it along with your ferry ticket and passport to the officer for inspection. You can then leave the country. Yay!!!

Do you know that the boat waits for you at the pier every day?

The gangway was narrow, and most passengers chose to sit in this area to disembark first. This made it difficult to disembark, requiring passengers to weave through people and step over belongings to find a place to stand at the back where there was still some space available.

As the vessel approached its departure time, it began to fill with passengers. With limited seating available, most individuals stood or sat on the floor.

Farewell, Thailand. I'll be back soon.

The atmosphere on the boat would be perfect if it weren't for the afternoon sun shining in from the right side.

Seeking refuge from the sun, we ventured to the stern of the boat to breathe in the fresh air. A cool breeze caressed our faces as we admired the breathtaking view before us. The desire to remain on this vessel indefinitely welled within us. Could we perhaps extend our journey and return to Bangkok by boat?

This ship has a rooftop deck for sightseeing, but no one is interested. Why? Look at the sun.

Although the color is durable, the skin cannot withstand it.

After approximately 20 minutes, the ship began to dock.

The captain landed the plane smoothly and even helped passengers disembark.

Tha Khaek (ທ່າແຂກ), the capital of Khammouane Province in the Lao People's Democratic Republic (Lao PDR), is situated on the banks of the Mekong River, opposite Nakhon Phanom District, Nakhon Phanom Province. The city holds significant historical importance in Laos. Around the 5th century AD, it was part of the Funan and Chenla Kingdoms, with its capital known as Sri Khotrabur or Sri Khotrabong. However, after the decline of the Khmer Empire, the city became incorporated into the Lan Xang Kingdom.

The Arrival of the French and the Establishment of "Tha Khaek"

During the French colonial period, the city was relocated to the area known as "Tha Khaek," which remains its current location. This move was strategically chosen to establish a port for transporting goods from other cities. French-style houses were built along the riverbank, giving rise to the name "Tha Khaek," which translates to "Port of Foreign Guests." This name reflects the city's historical role as a welcoming hub for international visitors and traders.

After Laos gained independence, the government attempted to rename the city "Muang Kham Muen" to give it a more Laotian sound. However, despite the passage of time, locals still habitually refer to it as "Muang Thakhaek" to this day. Source: https://goo.gl/PXWmk3

Upon arrival at the Laotian border checkpoint, extend your hand into the window where an official is seated to request an immigration form. After completing the form, attach it to your passport and return it to the same window. Wait for your name to be called and pay the border crossing fee of 50 baht per person.

Upon exiting the checkpoint and turning right, visitors will encounter a queue of waiting three-wheeled vehicles offering transportation services. These vehicles typically operate on a fixed daily rate, which is subject to negotiation and the intended destination. The approximate price range falls between 800 and 1500 baht per day. We opted against utilizing this service, as our plan was to explore the nearby vicinity by bicycle.

The hotel we booked was approximately 500 meters from the checkpoint, so we took our time walking and taking pictures of the surroundings.

The purpose of our trip was to experience the atmosphere of the old colonial-style buildings, a legacy of French colonial rule.

Colonial Style: A Legacy of Empire

The term "Colony" translates to "อาณานิคม," signifying a territory under the control of a foreign power. "Colonial," the adjective form, describes anything related to such colonies.

"Colonial Style" therefore refers to a distinct artistic and architectural approach that emerged during the colonial era. This period witnessed European powers like Portugal, Holland, France, and England establishing settlements and constructing buildings within their respective colonies.

The source of this information is provided as a hyperlink: https://goo.gl/1OzdgH

We are captivated by the charm of old architecture, not just colonial buildings, but also houses, buildings, and religious sites of each locality that have traveled through time to the present. It's as if we've met elders who were born and raised in those times and are still alive to tell us stories of the past.

The Inthira Hotel, which we had booked in advance, is part of a row of colonial-style buildings in the old town of Tha Khaek.

We booked this hotel through the website Traveloka, a travel agency website that frequently offers promotions and discounts on both accommodation and flight tickets. Bookings can be made through the website or mobile application, and payments can be made through various channels, making it convenient and cost-effective.

After specifying the location, selecting the check-in date, and clicking search, the system will display a list of hotels in the area. You can adjust the search criteria, such as price range or review scores from previous guests, until you find a hotel that meets your needs.

Inthira Hotel is a popular choice due to its convenient location and affordable price. It offers breakfast and free Wi-Fi, with two room types: Standard and Deluxe. We opted for the Standard room, which fit within our budget.

After making your selection, you will be prompted to provide some personal information and choose a payment method. There are many options available, but we recommend bank transfer as it allows for mobile payments and offers an additional discount.

Upon confirmation of your booking, you will receive an email with payment details. You must pay within 1 hour to confirm your reservation. Once you have paid, return to the website and click the "Payment Confirmation" button and upload proof of payment. This completes the process, and you will receive a booking confirmation email that you can present to the hotel upon arrival.

We were assigned a ground-floor room with two beds. As we were traveling solo, the extra bed served as storage space. A TV and a refrigerator were situated at the foot of the beds.

The bathroom is located above the headboard and is divided into two rooms. The left room is a shower room.

The room on the right is a bathroom with a sink in the center. The overall atmosphere is considered okay, scoring 8 out of 10.

After traveling for most of the day, and being drained by the sunlight, I took a nap to regain my strength. When I woke up, it was almost six in the evening, so I quickly washed my face and went out for a walk to watch the sunset over the land of Thailand from the Lao side.

The afternoon saw a surge in activity as the weather turned pleasantly cool.

We walked out of our accommodation, passing a bustling night market with a fountain, and after about 200 meters, we arrived at the banks of the Mekong River.

In this area, small food and beverage stalls are set up by vendors, offering dishes such as papaya salad, grilled meats, and Lao beer.

With tables for sitting and enjoying the atmosphere of the Mekong River up close.

Walk a little further past the restaurant and you will find an empty wooden balcony where you can sit and enjoy the sunset over the land of Thailand.

We arrived a little late, so we missed the chance to say goodbye. All that remained was the last light on the horizon for us to admire.

"Allow your heart to greet the breeze, and open yourself to the embrace of sunlight. Let the air carry away your sorrows, and let your worries evaporate like smoke. Let your thoughts drift freely for a day."

"Falling into the air pocket, we vanish into a second universe, safe from everything. A sense of comfort washes over us as we find refuge. Oh, heaven truly exists."

"This is the vacation time, a time full of meaning. Savor life slowly, relax, and forget the harsh realities for a while. This is the vacation time." - Vacation Time

The atmosphere at that moment perfectly matched the song. We sat there, taking in the view and snapping photos, without a care in the world, until our hearts whispered, "Enough."

We will take a short walk around the area to stimulate our appetites.

We circled back to the fountain square, which was bustling with a night market. About 10 stalls were set up selling food, snacks, and drinks.

The central courtyard features tables and chairs for visitors to choose from. Guests are welcome to bring food and drinks from any of the surrounding shops to enjoy in this communal space.

We circled around twice before finally ending up at a restaurant called "Chai Si Mee Kiew." The taste was slightly different from what we're used to back home, but it was still delicious. A bowl costs 60 baht.

After a satisfying main course, we returned to the riverside restaurant to sample skewered grilled meats and enjoy chilled Laotian beer to ward off the cold.

The grilled skewers offered a variety of options, including chicken wings, pork sausage, grilled tilapia, and grilled squid. With over 10 choices available, we opted for the grilled pork sausage. The vendor then grilled it to a perfect temperature before slicing it and serving it on a plate with a side of chili fish sauce.

Beer is ready, snacks are ready, cheers! With whom? Well, with myself, who else? So lonely and sad (a million "Gs").

The atmosphere was incredibly lonely. The relentless cold wind whipped around me, numbing my face, lips, legs, and even my arms.

A thorn in the flesh must be removed with another thorn. This situation calls for a cold Lao beer and grilled pork sausage, which is estimated to be about 5 million years old (extremely tough).

The colder it got, the less effective the Beer Lao became. I decided to head back to my accommodation to regroup.

While relaxing and looking at photos taken under my accommodation, I met a new Lao friend who had traveled from Savannakhet Province to visit a friend living in Tha Khaek. After chatting for a while, my friend invited me to visit a Lao pub in the city center. As I tend to be easily persuaded, I couldn't refuse the invitation (easygoing and open to new experiences).

Before heading to the club, my friends and I decided to warm up at a restaurant called "Poo Beer." It's a chill place with karaoke, and we couldn't resist getting on stage to sing a song after some encouragement from our friends. Although I wanted to sing more, I decided to share the spotlight with other tables. (We didn't take any pictures at this restaurant.)

Once the engine was warmed up, we continued to a pub called "Kimber" (please don't ask where it is, just getting back safely is a blessing, haha). The atmosphere of the Lao pub was similar to that of pubs in the provinces of our country. However, what was not different was the music played in the pub. There were only Thai and international songs, and everyone could sing along. There was also live music, which was very intoxicating. Oh, I mean, it was a lot of fun (the ones who were intoxicated were us).

The pubs here close at midnight. People start leaving around 11:30 pm, and I don't know where they go next. As for us, we went to a "pho" restaurant. I don't usually eat anything after drinking, but my friends insisted, so I had a large bowl. However, my friends told me that it was only a small bowl. Hmm!!!

After eating our fill, we drove back to our accommodation and went our separate ways to sleep. I was very drunk at that time, so I didn't shower and went straight to bed. After sleeping for five minutes, I felt a churning in my stomach and felt like I was going to vomit. I tried to pull myself out of bed and go to the bathroom, but it was too late. I threw up all over the floor in the middle of the room. My previous feelings of drunkenness and drowsiness were replaced by wide-eyed alertness. I diligently sat down and wiped up the vomit until it was spotless. When I woke up again, it was almost 9 am, so I missed going to the morning market as I had intended.

After getting dressed, we went down to enjoy the complimentary breakfast. There were eight breakfast sets to choose from, but we could only select one. The rest required an additional payment. We opted for set number 10007, Rice Soup with Egg. Each set came with bread, butter, and a choice of orange juice, tea, or coffee. The rice soup was delicious, but the highlight was the bread and butter. The butter was incredibly fragrant, so much so that we considered asking for a side of plain butter to enjoy on its own. Unfortunately, we forgot to inquire about the brand, which is a shame.

After finishing our meal, we went to the hotel to rent bicycles to cycle to the Phra That Si Chom Thong temple. The usual rental price is around 240 baht per day, but we only had 2 hours left before we had to check out, so we asked to rent them for just 2 hours at a price of 60 baht.

The pagoda is located approximately 6 kilometers south of our accommodation. It can be reached via three routes:

1. The first route, marked in red, follows the Mekong River for approximately 2 kilometers before connecting with the green route. This route offers scenic views and minimal traffic.

The second route, marked in green, does not offer views of the Mekong River but has less traffic. Normally, you can cycle all the way to the temple, but during the rainy season, the road is broken at the yellow line, making it impossible to continue. You must cycle back and turn at the pink line to cut onto the blue road.

The final stretch of the blue line offers no views of the Mekong River. It is heavily congested with vehicles and bustling with activity.

We opted to cycle along the road parallel to the Mekong River, which offered a delightful atmosphere. As we cycled, we took in the scenic views and enjoyed a relaxing ride.

The community residing in this area is likely to be of Laotian descent with Vietnamese ancestry, as evidenced by their attire and spoken language.

After cycling for about 2 kilometers, the riverside path ends at a temple. Then turn left and continue cycling on the green road.

The green road normally leads to the temple, but on that day, the road was broken at the yellow line and hadn't been repaired yet, so we couldn't continue. We didn't know about this beforehand, so we had to cycle back almost 3 kilometers to the large house in the picture below. Next to the house, there is a small alley that leads to the blue road.

In summary, if you wish to cycle to the temple, it is advisable to inquire with local residents beforehand regarding the condition of the green road. If the road is accessible, it is recommended to cycle along the red route first to enjoy the scenery before turning onto the green route leading to the temple.

Upon arrival, visitors are greeted by a refreshing breeze that quickly dries any perspiration and alleviates fatigue. Tickets for entry are available at a cost of 20 baht per person.

Today is another day with excellent weather. A cool breeze blows continuously, and the air is clean, making it refreshing to breathe. Moreover, the sky is clear without a single cloud. The golden-yellow spire of the pagoda stands out majestically, adding to the beauty of the scene.

The Sacred Stupa of Sri Khotrabong: A Historical Gem

The Sri Khotrabong Stupa, also known as the Sri Khotrabong Pagoda, is believed to have been constructed during the 10th Buddhist century by King Nanthasena. This period coincides with the era when the port city of Thakhek was part of the Sri Khotrabong Kingdom. Interestingly, the Sri Khotrabong Stupa is often considered a counterpart to the revered Phra That Phanom in Nakhon Phanom Province, Thailand. Both stupas share a common origin, having been constructed during the same period within the Sri Khotrabong Kingdom.

The side of the main stupa features a large ordination hall, which houses a grand Buddha statue.

The door we entered through is located at the back of the ordination hall.

This sacred image of the Buddha features a serene and radiant smile.

Young novices are available to assist and welcome visitors who come to make merit and pay respects to the Buddha.

On the side, there is a large gong that villagers and tourists like to rub in the center to create a resounding sound and make wishes.

This corner is peaceful and the air is very fresh.

The ubosot and the stupa are located on the east bank of the Mekong River, at a point where the river is relatively narrow.

A steady stream of villagers visited the sacred stupa, with all the women adorned in beautiful patterned sarongs and small shoulder scarves, creating a captivating sight.

Another important landmark located near the Phra That is the monument of Phraya Si Kotabong, the ruler of Si Kotabong Buri, a vassal city of Vientiane. Originally, his title was Phraya Si Kotabong, but due to his prowess in using the club, he was given the new name "Phraya Si Kotabong".

Source: https://goo.gl/FRb0JZ

The Legend of Phya Sri Khotrabong: A Tale of Power, Betrayal, and a Curse

This passage recounts the legend of Phya Sri Khotrabong, a powerful warrior of the Vientiane Kingdom. Renowned for his invincibility and ability to fell countless elephants with a single swing of his giant club, Phya Sri Khotrabong played a pivotal role in establishing the Lan Xang Kingdom (Kingdom of a Million Elephants). However, his demise stemmed from political intrigue within the Vientiane court. The king's daughter, sent as his wife, discovered his vulnerability – his anus – through trickery. Before his death, Phya Sri Khotrabong uttered a cryptic curse, preventing the lands on both sides of the Mekong River from achieving their full potential. Their prosperity, he prophesied, would be fleeting, lasting only as long as "the elephant folds its ears and the snake flicks its tongue."

Source: https://goo.gl/QDzquQ

For those interested in the full legend, please refer to https://goo.gl/xMdIt0

After paying respects at the Phra That and the monument of Phraya Si Kotabong, I quickly cycled back to my accommodation to check out.

The journey back was even more tiring than the journey there. I had to cycle against the wind, and my tire went flat. I stopped at a motorcycle repair shop along the way to fill it with air. The owner's brother kindly filled it for me without charging me.

Upon returning to the accommodation, I promptly showered, packed my belongings, and checked out.

After taking some photos at the fountain, they continued their walk to the museum of local history, which is located on the way to the port.

Upon arrival, it became apparent that the establishment was closed today, as it is only open from Monday to Friday.

Seeking solace after the disappointment, I wandered in search of lunch near the pier. My search led me to a pho restaurant situated at the intersection before the left turn towards the pier.

A small bowl of pho, which was actually quite large, arrived with a generous amount of toppings and a rich, flavorful broth. The owner's daughter was also very friendly.

After finishing their meal, they hurried to the pier to complete the border crossing paperwork. They paid a 50 baht border crossing fee and a 60 baht boat fare.

The small boat on the return trip was very crowded, and it felt like the boat was tilting quite a bit.

After approximately 20 minutes, we safely arrived at the Thai pier. Welcome back to Thailand.

A Glimpse into Thakhek: A Journey Through Laos' Hidden Gem

While a single day and night in Thakhek, Khammouane Province, Laos, may seem insufficient to explore its numerous attractions, it was enough to broaden our horizons and fulfill a long-held desire to visit this enigmatic land nestled between mountains and the Mekong River. We finally achieved our goal of exploring this region, which we had dreamt of visiting for years. We look forward to returning and delving deeper into its hidden treasures, as there are countless more places waiting to be discovered and experienced.

Life is a journey, and every adventure unveils new wonders.

Summary of expenses

Accommodation cost at Inthira Hotel for 1 night with breakfast: 927 Baht.

2. Roundtrip ferry fare: 120 Baht

3. Border crossing fee, Laos (round trip): 100 Baht.

4. Bicycle rental for 2 hours: 60 Baht

5. Entrance fee to Wat Phra That Sri Kotrabong: 20 Baht

Total cost is approximately 1,227 baht (excluding food and beverages).

Thank you to everyone who has read this far. For the Nakhon Phanom trip, please follow the next post. : )

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