Having fallen head over heels for Nan after three previous visits, we embarked on a fourth journey to this captivating destination.

The trip seemed uncertain from the beginning. Initially, we planned to invite others to join us, but most of those we invited were unavailable. Additionally, both of us who were the main organizers were busy with work at the time. We rarely communicated, and it seemed that we did not have enough clear information about the trip. We lost contact for a considerable period, and I assumed the trip had been canceled.

However, shortly before the trip, Tun sent me a flurry of links about traveling to Nan, covering a variety of itineraries. We finally had a chance to have a serious conversation and reached a decision about our trip to Nan. Ultimately, it might just be the two of us, as we both had a strong desire to go at that moment. Two is fine; we'll go.

After a brief preparation period, we finalized our travel plans and divided responsibilities. One person handled accommodation, while the other managed transportation tickets. We constantly exchanged information, including bus schedules between districts, to avoid unnecessary delays. Missing a bus would disrupt our entire itinerary.

We departed on Thursday evening by bus and arrived in Wiang Sa district near dawn. We had to get off here and then take a small bus to Na Noi district, which was packed with people. This was even though it was the morning round. We had to get off at the Ban Mai intersection (the entrance to Sri Nan National Park) to go up to Doi Samer Dao, which we told the driver before the bus left to remember to stop for us. At this point, there is a pavilion with the phone number of a motorcycle taxi service posted. We arrived at this point around 8 am.

After finding a place for breakfast, we continued walking as the air was still cool and foggy. We walked until we were too far to walk back to catch a motorbike taxi. People along the way started looking at us and asking about our destination. Finally, we got a ride from a man who worked at the Nam Kad Headwaters Management Unit. He drove us all the way to the Doi Pha Hom Pok campsite. This time, we hadn't planned for our trip to turn into a hitchhiking adventure. After setting up our tent at the campsite, we explored the nearby attractions because it was very hot at the campsite during this time. An officer at the entrance suggested that we visit Pha Chu, where there was a path to go up and enjoy the view. We were eager to go, so we didn't hesitate. However, the distance was quite far, and we wouldn't be able to walk. The officer said that if a car came by, he would flag it down for us to hitch a ride. But we sat there for an hour until the officer who had driven away on an errand finally returned. He drove us there, and when we saw the car, we were stunned for a moment before jumping in with excitement. We screamed and cheered all the way, wondering if we would finally reach our destination.

After my heart rate returned to normal, I went to inquire about climbing the Lover's Cliff. However, I was unable to do so because the only remaining guide was pregnant and the others had already taken other tourist groups before our arrival. All I could do was gaze longingly at the peak of the Lover's Cliff, which stood tantalizingly close yet inaccessible. I sat down and unknowingly fell asleep. When I awoke, only a few cars remained, including a pickup truck. I rushed towards the driver, who was just approaching his vehicle, and put on my most pitiful expression. He took pity on me and drove me to the camping ground at Doi Pha Hom Pok, which was now teeming with tents and people, a stark contrast to the scene when we first arrived.

As the sun began to set, casting a warm glow over the landscape, we ascended the Lion's Head rock formation. From this vantage point, we were treated to a breathtaking panorama that stretched as far as the eye could see. The meandering river and rolling hills were painted in hues of gold and orange, while a gentle breeze caressed our faces. As the sun dipped below the horizon, we sat in awe, mesmerized by the beauty that unfolded before us.

As the sun dipped below the horizon, we made our way back to our tent. As darkness enveloped the sky, countless stars twinkled brightly, living up to Doi Samer Dao's name, which translates to "Mountain of the Equal Stars." We gazed up at the sky, mesmerized by the thousands of stars that seemed within reach. In unison, we exclaimed, "Wow!" Our first night in Nan at Doi Samer Dao was spent sleeping soundly in our small two-person tent, our bellies full from a simple dinner of instant noodles and canned fish, topped off with a refreshing papaya.

The cool morning air greeted us as we stepped out to witness the first light of day, with a sea of mist blanketing the entire area. We were so captivated by the view that by the time we returned to the campsite, only one pickup truck remained. We decided to hitch a ride with them to the city, even though the truck bed was already full of belongings and other passengers. Despite the limited space, everyone was kind enough to squeeze in and make room for us.

In addition to visiting the Sao Din Na Noi, which many people say resembles the Pae Muang Phi, the elderly also call it by different names according to the legends they have heard. Not only do we see the differently shaped earth pillars over time, but nearby there is also the Khok Suea, where stories are told that there used to be many tigers in the area that liked to bite cows. The villagers then chased the tigers and drove them into a clay pit, where they were killed.

We continued our journey by car, hoping to catch a ride to a bus stop. However, the kind driver took us all the way to the bus station in Nan city.

We immediately boarded a shared taxi and headed to Pua district to catch a connecting ride to Bo Kluea district. We arrived in Pua around noon, just as a shared taxi was leaving. However, it was already full, and we couldn't squeeze in. We decided to have lunch and wait for the 2 pm bus. When the time came, the driver told us that we would have to charter the taxi because it wasn't worth it for him to take only two passengers. We were hesitant to pay for a private taxi, so we called the owner of our accommodation in Bo Kluea. Luckily, a van belonging to the resort's customers had just arrived in Pua, and they had two empty seats. We were fortunate enough to hitch a ride with them. Coincidentally, they had also just come from Doi Pha Hom Pok National Park. We were incredibly lucky to get a free ride and even have the opportunity to sightsee along the way.

As dusk settled, we finally arrived at our accommodation. After dinner, we gathered around a bonfire, laughing and reminiscing with old friends from school whom we had unexpectedly encountered. The cool night air enveloped us as we shared stories until late into the evening. Exhausted from the day's adventures, we retired to our beds. The next morning, we awoke early and took a refreshing walk along the riverbank, enjoying the tranquility of the crisp morning air.

Despite the many changes, this place remains relatively peaceful. We strolled around, visiting the salt factory, the post office, and the shops in the village, taking photos and enjoying a meal before returning to our accommodation to pack our belongings. It was already late morning by the time we left.

We took photos and strolled around the Aon Ai Maang Homestay in Bo Kluea. The atmosphere was so pleasant that we wanted to stay longer. After packing our belongings, we waited for a long time for a bus. We decided to hitchhike back to Pua. The sun was hot, but the wind was cool, making us enjoy the ride in the back of a pickup truck under the sun without complaining. Upon reaching Pua, we took a songthaew to the city center.

Not just a destination.

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Our journey took an unexpected turn as we found ourselves drawn to the allure of the Nan Riverside Art Gallery. Immersing ourselves in the diverse artistic expressions showcased within its walls, we lost track of time. As darkness enveloped the city, we returned to our familiar lodgings, the Sri Nuan Lodge, with renewed energy. Despite the late hour, we couldn't resist exploring the vibrant streets before retiring for the night.

On the final morning, we woke up and rented bicycles to explore the city once more. We cycled to the Phra That Chae Haeng temple, alternating between visiting temples and indulging in local delicacies. Due to the hot weather, our exploration of Nan city was relatively brief, as we still remembered the routes from our previous visit. It was more of a nostalgic trip down memory lane.

Gleanings

We cycled from early morning, entering one alley after another, getting lost several times. We stopped at every shop, trying almost every menu item we came across. It turned out to be a trip with a lot of eating, both savory and sweet.

They ate until dusk, their mouths never idle, stopping to sample anything they hadn't tried yet. The day's culinary finale was, of course, more food. In front of the museum, a northern Thai food festival was underway, making the khantoke spread seem small in comparison. This was due to Oat's insatiable desire to try everything.

During our trip, we stayed at a Tai Lue homestay in Ban Don Mul, Tha Wang Pha district. The journey itself was memorable. Despite having what we thought was sufficient information, our plans went awry. Public transportation was unavailable, but fortunately, we encountered kind-hearted individuals who provided us with free rides. The homestay owner treated us like family, and the next day, she arranged transportation for us to Nan city.

Upon returning to Nan on our final day, we rented bicycles to explore the remaining shops we hadn't visited. Time was of the essence, as we needed to catch a 6 pm bus. This was my first solo return to Bangkok, as my brother Oat had gone to Chiang Mai. It was a time I never thought I could handle, having never traveled alone before. Even a short stay felt lonely, but strangely, I didn't feel the fear I expected. When it was time to leave, I felt a pang of sadness, not wanting the moment to arrive. What is it about Nan that makes me want to stay longer? Experience it for yourself and discover the magic of Nan.

The cost of both trips, a 3-day, 2-night trip and a 4-day, 3-night trip, suggests that food expenses may exceed transportation costs.

Map

The city of Nan offers a variety of attractions, all easily accessible by bike. The main roads are straightforward, making it a pleasant cycling experience. For a more enjoyable ride, consider joining a group. Alternatively, various transportation options are available, including songthaews, motorbikes, and rickshaws. Choose the one that best suits your needs.

Years have passed, and we will return to update the map with newly opened stores.