Ep. 1: Cruising the Mekong River to Luang Prabang

Traveling to Luang Prabang, Laos, offers a variety of transportation options. Public buses provide convenient and affordable connections, while direct flights offer a faster alternative. However, for backpackers seeking a more immersive experience, the slow boat journey remains a popular choice. Opting for this leisurely mode of transport, my companions and I embarked on a two-day, one-night voyage, embracing the slow pace and scenic beauty of the surrounding landscapes. The slow boat journey allows for an unparalleled immersion into the local culture and way of life, providing ample opportunities to observe and appreciate the authentic charm of Laos.


Our journey began with a bus ride from Bangkok to Chiang Khong. We had booked tickets with Sombat Tour for the 7:40 PM departure, arriving in Chiang Khong District, Chiang Rai Province, around 8:00 AM the next day.

The Star VIP bus departing from Vibhavadi Rangsit Road is a double-decker bus with a fare of 592 baht per person. Before boarding, inform the driver or the conductor that you will be disembarking at the Chiang Khong checkpoint. The bus will pass the entrance to the checkpoint, and we will cross the border into the Lao People's Democratic Republic at this checkpoint.


After getting off the bus, you will be greeted by the three-wheeled motorcycle drivers. Take a three-wheeled motorcycle to the checkpoint for 50 baht per person. When I went to Chiang Khong District at the end of December, the morning air was quite cold.

Upon reaching the Chiang Khong border checkpoint (4th Friendship Bridge), proceed to fill out the exit documents.


After completing document verification, we purchased shuttle bus tickets for 25 baht to cross the 4th Friendship Bridge to the Lao PDR side. We also exchanged Thai baht for Lao kip at the rate of 229 kip per baht. I exchanged 3,000 baht and received 687,000 kip, making us feel instantly wealthier.


The shuttle bus crossed the Fourth Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge into Laos. Most of the passengers were foreigners, mainly Westerners.


Upon arrival at the immigration checkpoint on the Lao side, fill out the entry form and pay a 40 baht fee (Thai currency is still accepted). Expect lower fees on weekdays outside of holidays. Exiting the checkpoint, you will encounter local drivers offering transportation to the pier, approximately 11 km away. The fare is 100 baht per person, which may seem slightly expensive. At the pier, purchase a slow boat ticket for 210,000 kip (~915 baht). The boat departs around 11:30 am. After securing your spot on the boat, take some time to explore the pier area before departure.


The boat departed from the pier at Huay Xai, navigating the Mekong River. The left bank belonged to the Lao People's Democratic Republic, while the right bank marked the territory of Thailand. The atmosphere on board was a mix of Western tourists, Lao locals, and only myself and my companion representing Thailand. It became evident that this route was not particularly popular among Thai travelers. The boat's seats resembled those found in Thai minivans.


As we journey along, we are captivated by the natural beauty and breathtaking scenery that unfolds before us. The first hour is particularly delightful, eliciting laughter and joy. However, the journey continues for two more days, requiring us to maintain our focus and appreciation for the surroundings. Upon crossing the mountain ahead, we will officially enter the territory of Laos.


While the ship was stopped to pick up passengers along the way,


In addition to the slow boat to Luang Prabang, there is also a fast boat that takes only one day to reach the destination. Passengers are provided with helmets, although the safety of this option is questionable. Nevertheless, the helmets likely offer protection from the sun and wind.


This is likely the remains of a mining ship.

Scenic roadside views


After a full day of travel, we arrived in Pakbeng. The boat will dock here for one night. Upon disembarking, we were greeted by guesthouse owners offering room rates to newly arrived tourists. There were many options to choose from, and we settled on a room for 120 baht per person per night. We tried to use kip for our expenses since we had already exchanged it, but paying in Thai baht resulted in a slightly lower price. It seems that Thai baht is more widely accepted here.


This is our accommodation, Phomephithak Guesthouse, which I found after returning.
There are many restaurants to choose from in Pakbeng, as it is a place where tourists must stop every day. Most of the prices I saw started at 15,000 kip (65 baht), which is quite expensive. We have to think carefully before buying anything.


The nights and mornings are very cold, so there is no need for fans in the rooms. The atmosphere in the morning at the pier is…


Waking up early to secure a seat on the 7 am boat was necessary, as I had read that it tends to fill up quickly. As the departure time approached, the boat did indeed reach full capacity, even requiring additional chairs. The boat departed at nearly 10 am. The photo depicts the boat we took yesterday. Today, we will be boarding a different vessel for our journey to Luang Prabang.


The atmosphere on the boat today is...


The scenery along the road today remained a familiar mix of mountains, rocky outcrops, sandy beaches, and grazing animals. However, there were a few unexpected sights that provided a brief moment of excitement.


Domestic animals of villagers along the Mekong River

Agriculture along the Mekong River


Luang Prabang is just around the corner.


Finally arrived in Luang Prabang after a long 2-day and 1-night boat journey.


Exiting Luang Prabang pier, you will encounter local drivers offering rides into the city center. The pier is located outside the city, and the drivers informed us that the journey would cost 20,000 kip (approximately 85 baht) for a 10 km ride. As it was nearing 5 pm, we opted to walk into the city to save money and enjoy the scenery along the way.

Access to the city from the port


The initial phase of the walk was enjoyable, offering glimpses into the authentic lifestyle of Luang Prabang residents. This area lies outside the typical tourist zone, providing a genuine perspective on local life.


We encountered a PTT gas station, the only one we came across. It had a Jiffy store inside, which we explored. The products were mostly, if not entirely, from Thailand. It felt like being back home! The prices were slightly higher than in Thailand, by about 2-5 baht, but compared to other stores, they were cheaper.

The journey continued for over two hours, and it became clear that the destination was farther than initially anticipated. Fatigue began to set in among the group, and as darkness approached, the path became increasingly challenging due to road construction. Photography was abandoned in favor of prioritizing safe passage.


#End of Episode 1

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