Readme before you journey
The inspiration for this Sapa trip originated from reading a thread on the Pantip website about visiting Sapa during the hot season in December 2016. The images of the terraced rice fields sparked a strong desire to experience Sapa firsthand. With that, I immediately began planning my "Escape the Heat and Seek Coolness in Sapa" adventure.
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Step 1: Set the date The most convenient time for us was during the hottest period, so we decided to go during Songkran, April 14-18, 2017. This would allow us to test whether Sapa is really cold.
Step 2: Finding travel companions
To share expenses and travel costs, I needed companions who were willing to travel on the specific dates of April 14-18. Surprisingly, Sapa was an easy sell, and within a single post, I found 5 more people to join me. With a total of 6 people, the trip was set to be just the right size.
Step 3: Finding Flights
After comparing prices, I settled on Jetstar for my flights.
- Departure: 14/04 BL668 BKK 2:25 pm - HANOI 4:15 pm
- Return: 18/04 BL667 HANOI 11:40 am - BKK 1:30 pm
Note: It's recommended to use a backpack for this trip, as wheeled luggage can be inconvenient due to ongoing construction and uneven road surfaces. This could damage expensive luggage wheels.
Step 4: Researching Destinations
With only three days to explore, the research phase was crucial and time-consuming. Ultimately, we decided to utilize the services of Vietexpresstravel. The question arises: why use an agent? The answer is simple: convenience, affordability, and avoiding the hassle or potential scams of Vietnamese taxis (although we did encounter other forms of deception, which I'll share later).
Itinerary:
- Day 1 (April 14th): Arrive in Hanoi and take a train to Lao Cai.
- Day 2 (April 15th): Arrive in Sapa and explore the town and Cat Cat village independently.
- Day 3 (April 16th): One-day trek to Lao Cai village.
- Day 4 (April 17th): Take a cable car to the summit of Fansipan Mountain and return to Hanoi by bus.
- Day 5 (April 18th): Arrive in Hanoi and fly back to Bangkok.
How to contact Ms. Houng of Vietexpresstravel
OFFICE IN HA NOI
Address: 2nd Floor, 35 Gia Ngu Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi City, Vietnam.
Tel: +84.9.75105588 Fax: +84.43.9261555
Mobile: 0975105588
Line ID: huongtours90
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.vietexpresstravel.com.vn
https://www.facebook.com/nguyen.huong.7967
It is recommended to send an email first, and Ms. Houng will send you a variety of options to choose from, including train tickets, tour buses, private cars, and hotels, with prices included. If you are unsure about anything, you can ask her on Line. She responds quickly.
If Ms. Houng selects the hotel, the process can be completed without requiring Step 5.
Step 5: Accommodation
After much deliberation, we chose the Charming Sapa Hotel for our two-night stay, booking through Agoda. Several factors influenced our decision:
- High review scores: The hotel boasts excellent reviews, indicating a positive guest experience.
- Proximity to Sapa Lake and Interline bus company: Its location near Sapa Lake and within walking distance of the Interline bus company, which offers overnight buses back to Hanoi, proved convenient.
- Affordable price with breakfast included: The hotel offered a reasonable price, including breakfast, and we opted for a room on the second floor with a simple view, as the hotel lacks an elevator.
Plans were meticulously prepared since late December. However, as the saying goes, "Plans are just plans." When the time came, some things did not go according to plan, and adjustments had to be made on the spot.
Day 1: April 14, 2017
**And then, the long-awaited day has arrived!** At 12:00 p.m., six of us gathered at the Jetstar check-in counter, some carrying their luggage and others dragging it along in their own unique style. After checking in our bags, we headed to the King Power Lounge at Suvarnabhumi Airport, where we ate as much as we could until it was almost time for our gate to open. Only then did we finally drag ourselves away from the food.
14:25 Bangkok (BKK) to 16:15 Hanoi (HAN)
Upon arrival at Noi Bai International Airport in Hanoi, we waited for the driver arranged by Ms. Houng. However, despite waiting for a considerable amount of time, we were unable to locate the driver or the agreed-upon name sign. We attempted to purchase a Vietnamese SIM card, but it was malfunctioning. Consequently, we used the store's phone to contact Ms. Houng, who assured us that she would investigate. Meanwhile, a member of our group who had created a sign with the company name, Vietexpress, encountered the driver. However, the driver was holding a sign with the real name of another group member, instead of the agreed-upon nickname. This miscommunication resulted in a significant delay. This unfortunate experience on our first day raised concerns about potential challenges ahead.
After a 45-minute drive from the airport, we arrived at Ms. Houng's office. Her office is located in a market near Hoan Kiem Lake. After greetings, we purchased a SIM card from Ms. Houng (only $5 for unlimited internet and 100 minutes of calls). We then headed to a nearby restaurant for some delicious pho. The restaurant had large pictures and prices displayed, making it easy to order our favorite dishes.
The restaurant is located near the office, with many foreigners. No need to speak, just point and order.
After a satisfying meal at the restaurant, we decided to take a leisurely stroll around Hoan Kiem Lake, also known as the Lake of the Returned Sword. The area surrounding the lake was bustling with vendors selling a wide variety of counterfeit brand-name goods, including sneakers, jackets, raincoats, and backpacks. While we were tempted to indulge in some retail therapy, we were pressed for time as we needed to catch a train departing from the station at 8:30 PM. As we made our way back to the restaurant, we witnessed a scene that could only be described as "Vietnamese chaos." Shopkeepers in the vicinity were hastily packing up their wares, and even the chairs we were sitting on in front of Ms. Houng's establishment were being collected by the staff. Perplexed, we stood with our companions, trying to make sense of the situation. The source of the commotion soon became apparent. Several men dressed in attire resembling that of Vietnamese civil servants arrived and began clearing away tables and chairs from the sidewalk, loading them onto a pickup truck. They then proceeded to stop at the spot where we were standing and ordered a group of Thai tourists (not our group) who were enjoying a meal on the sidewalk to vacate their seats and have their table and chairs confiscated. Ms. Houng explained that the confiscated items could be retrieved by paying a fine. Apparently, there was a regulation prohibiting street vending after 8:00 PM.
The van that was supposed to pick us up did not arrive until after 8:30 PM. After waiting for a while, we loaded our luggage onto the van. Ms. Houng and another young staff member joined us. After a 15-minute drive, the van stopped, and we had to carry our luggage into the station to wait for our tickets. After Ms. Houng distributed the tickets, we dispersed to find our respective trains and carriages. Several trains were parked, and it would have been confusing to find ours on our own. Fortunately, the friendly staff helped us to our beds. We had booked Green train Deluxe class, which offered four-bed sleeping compartments. The beds were clean and came with blankets, bottled water, a bag of crackers for each person, and air conditioning. Each compartment had a bathroom and a sink for brushing teeth. The weather in Hanoi was pleasant and not too hot on the day we arrived. After settling into our beds, we relaxed and rested. We had a long night ahead of us, as we would be arriving in Lao Cai early the next morning.
**Day 2: April 15, 2017**
Around 6:00 AM, the train came to a complete stop. Passengers began to gather their belongings and disembark. To be sure, we asked a staff member if we had arrived in Lao Cai. The staff member signaled "yes," so we gathered our belongings and went outside to breathe the fresh air. The weather was cool and pleasant, so we took a few quick photos. Then, we set out to find the driver who would be holding our name sign. Based on past experience, we knew to look for both our first and last names. Before we knew it, a friend nudged us and said they had found the driver. This time, it was easy to find them (but it wasn't that easy). The driver ushered us to a corner to wait for the others who had found their partners. At that moment, the scene was chaotic. Drivers were searching for their passengers, and passengers were searching for their drivers. It seemed like they were trying to match the number of people to the number of vans, as each van could hold about 16 people. Therefore, our group had to be combined with another group to reach the full number. We waited for a long time... Oh no! Who was the person holding the name sign earlier? We had forgotten their face. A friend pointed to someone walking briskly in the distance, so we ran after them and asked to see their name sign. It didn't have the name of the person we had booked with. What now? Which van was ours? We scattered to find the driver holding our name sign, but we couldn't find them. Some vans had already started to leave the parking lot. We began to worry, so we rushed to another driver and told them. After a while, they said, "Six people, right? Go to this van." We immediately ran to the van they pointed to. (What did we do to deserve this driver's treatment? Sigh.)
The bus was packed full, and we enjoyed the scenery as we traveled. After about an hour, we arrived in Sapa around 8 am. We unloaded our bags and walked up a small hill to the hotel. The three-story building was decorated in a simple, homey style and was clean and tidy. Check-in wasn't until 1 pm, and our room wasn't ready yet. So, we freshened up, left our bags, and headed out to explore Sapa town. Our first stop was a local restaurant, where the owner didn't speak English. We ordered by pointing at what we wanted and specifying the quantity. The restaurant had a basket of vegetables for customers to try, including some strange-looking and tasting vegetables we'd never seen before. The prices were similar to those in Hanoi.
A stone church in the heart of SAPA city, bustling with people.
After a hearty meal, we took a short walk to Sapa Lake. The cool air and the view of the lakeside with its European-style architecture and the backdrop of rolling mountains were simply captivating. After soaking in the beauty for a while, our next stop was The Catholic Church, or Stone Church. This church, built in 1930, is now 87 years old, making it a grand old lady. This area seemed to be the heart of Sapa, with a large square, a park, shops, restaurants, and a fair number of Hmong people selling their wares in front of the church. Perhaps it was because it was a holiday, and the Hmong children were not in school, so they were helping their families by selling goods. In Sapa, we had a hardcore sales experience that we will never forget. I will tell you about it tomorrow.
The next viewpoint is Café in the clouds, another must-visit landmark. The view is beautiful, the air is cool, the coffee is strong, and the beer is sweet. Hehe. I tried two flavors, but my favorite was Lao Cai. Once you try it, you'll know how smooth it is. It seems like this is the only place to get it, because I looked around the shops in the market and could only find Ha Noi brand. Beer here is cheaper than coffee, so you can get drunk without breaking the bank.
The last stop of the day was Cat Cat Village. From the coffee shop, we could see the village, and the walk there was easy and free. We saved the money for tomorrow. We walked leisurely, stopping to take pictures along the way (the view was so beautiful). We arrived at the village and paid an entrance fee of 50,000 dong each. We received a ticket and continued on. The village resembled the countryside back home, with souvenir shops scattered along the path. We walked until we reached the waterfall, and our fatigue vanished. The view from the top of the mountain showed the waterfall stream with large wooden turbines lined up. It was beautiful and impressive, worth the walk. The water was abundant during our visit, making the waterfall look magnificent and radiant. After enjoying the beauty, we started our return journey. The way back felt like walking uphill, and we were exhausted. It showed our lack of fitness. When we reached the village exit, we stopped to buy almonds and pears from a friendly vendor, preparing for tonight. We then hired a minibus back to the hotel because we were too tired to walk. The fare was 30,000 dong per person. We arrived at the hotel and rested. In the evening, we went out to find food again.
In the evening, we went out to explore the local food scene. After wandering around for a while, we noticed a crowd gathered around a small bicycle parked on the side of the road. Curious, we joined the crowd to see what it was all about. It turned out to be a BOBIA NGOT, a street food that resembled Thai roti sai mai but used sugar cane, grated coconut, and black sesame seeds. We couldn't resist trying it, so we each ordered a roll for 3,000 dong. After our sweet treat, we stumbled upon a savory option near the church, where a restaurant had fresh vegetables displayed in baskets alongside a hot pot. We inquired about the price and were told it was 400,000 dong for a set. We decided to give it a try. The ingredients included chicken, pork, salmon, various fresh vegetables, and even instant noodles. We eagerly awaited the boiling soup and then added all the fresh ingredients. The broth was delicious and flavorful. We enjoyed the meal so much that we finished the entire basket of vegetables. When we asked the waitress if we could have more, she brought us another large basket. For 400,000 dong, it was a great value for six people.
BOBIA NGOT (I'm not sure if this is spelled correctly)
Is this Sapa hotpot tempting!?
Upon returning to the hotel, we each ordered a bottle of beer and paired it with almonds. The combination was simply divine! The hotel owner, noticing our struggle to crack open the almonds, brought us a cutting board and a hammer. We had a blast hammering away until our beers were finished. Afterwards, we retired to our rooms but not before tidying up and cleaning after ourselves. As well-behaved guests, we were mindful of our impact on the local community, knowing that any negative behavior could reflect poorly on our entire country.
**Day 3: April 16, 2017**
At 9:00 am this morning, there is a short hike to Lao Cai village. Members should be ready before the time to wait for the guide at the hotel lobby. When the appointment time arrives, a representative of the Vietexpress agent will introduce themselves and summarize today's and tomorrow's programs for you to listen to.
Today we will walk about 9 km to Lao Cai village. We will have lunch in the village and then walk another 3 km to the minibus parking lot, which will take us back to the hotel. The guide who will lead the walk is a Hmong woman from the village. She is a small woman in her 40s with 3 children. (She is very strong because she has to walk to the village with tourists often. Hehe, walking more than 10 kilometers a day, if she is not strong, I don't know what to say.) She told us not to bring unnecessary things because the distance is quite far. When we were ready, we started walking from the hotel. The guide led us to the Stone Church. When we passed the church, Hmong people started to gather, chat with us, and walk with us. A young-looking Hmong woman with a young child on her back told us that it was her son. She looked very young, only 19 years old. She walked alongside one of the members of our group. All the Hmong people who joined us on the trip spoke good English, even better than some of the members of our group. Hehe. They walked and talked in pairs, trying to build relationships. They even made heart-shaped twigs and gave them to their partners. (There is a reason behind this, and we will tell you later.)
The bond forged on the road by Hmong friends, who else would sell things like that?
The scenery along the trail was breathtaking, with verdant rice terraces cascading down the hillsides, rugged mountain ranges, and mist-shrouded peaks. It was well worth the effort of carrying our cameras and tripods to capture these stunning views. We lingered at every picturesque spot, snapping photos of everything from water buffalo to ducks, much to the amusement of our guide, who gently urged us to keep moving so we wouldn't be late for our noon arrival at the village. The trail wasn't overly challenging, but there were a few sections that required caution, particularly when ascending or descending steep slopes. The weather was perfect, with mild sunshine and no rain, but the 9 km distance left some members of our group feeling winded. We encountered other groups along the way, all heading towards the same destination. Water is essential to carry, as there are limited opportunities to purchase it along the trail, although some local villagers sell it at rest stops. The view before reaching the village was truly spectacular, earning a 5-star rating and serving as the highlight of our journey. It was so rewarding that we couldn't help but think, "We must come back again!"
** **
Our guide led us into a shop, which was a designated rest stop for lunch. The guide explained that the rice and dishes were free of charge, but bottled water or soft drinks had to be purchased. As soon as we sat down, our Hmong friend who had been walking with us began her hard-core sales pitch. Her pleading voice, urging us to buy her wares, was so loud that the people at the next table turned to look. Eager to get the ordeal over with, I agreed to buy something I didn't need in the slightest just to get her to stop. After a while, the sales pitch stopped, and the hardcore salespeople dispersed. Each of our friends paid a small or large amount depending on their financial situation. One friend said that she wanted to give her heart back to the woman who had sold her something. We all laughed and agreed that we should think of it as helping the villagers earn an income. The beautiful view was worth the walk, and after all, Thailand also has its own version of this kind of salesmanship.
As the food arrived, our attention turned to the delicious spread before us. After a long morning hike, this was our first meal of the day, and the local cuisine looked familiar yet enticing. Stir-fried vegetables and spring rolls resembled dishes from home, but the flavors were truly exceptional. We savored each bite with steaming rice, feeling a wave of contentment wash over us. After a short break, our Hmong guide approached us, inquiring if we were ready to continue. With everyone refreshed, we set off on foot, leaving the village behind. Other tourist groups followed suit, strolling along the village streets lined with shops. As we walked and chatted, the atmosphere was cheerful, enhanced by the pleasant weather and stunning scenery. We reached the designated pick-up point as the sky began to darken. As we boarded the vehicle, a light drizzle started to fall. Fortunately, the rain held off during our walk, sparing us from any potential inconvenience. Upon arriving at the hotel, our guide bid us farewell. We had agreed to give her a tip, but she insisted it wasn't necessary. Nevertheless, we expressed our gratitude for her excellent service and for taking us to such a beautiful location.
Dinner at Sapa Market
This evening, we ventured out from the hotel, turning left instead of right as we did yesterday. Our destination: Sapa Market, where we hoped to find some delicious food.
Arriving around 5 pm, we explored the market. The main building resembled the Hua Lamphong train station in Bangkok, with sections dedicated to dry goods and clothing. However, most shops were closed due to the late hour.
We then ventured behind the market, where we discovered a bustling fresh food market and a variety of restaurants offering pho and other dishes. Prices were displayed in English, with pho and rice porridge costing around 30,000-40,000 VND, which was in line with our previous experiences.
Drawn in by the enthusiastic calls of a vendor, we decided to try her restaurant. Despite speaking only Vietnamese, her lively demeanor and persuasive skills won us over. Inside, we found a table occupied by a group of over 10 Vietnamese men enjoying their meal.
We saw what they were eating and wanted to try it ourselves, as we were tired of our own food. We pointed to their table, indicating that we wanted something similar. Their meal consisted of boiled chicken, small fried fish, fried shrimp, stir-fried vegetables, and two large bowls of rice, one of which had burnt rice at the bottom. After finishing our meal, it was time to pay. We sent a representative from our group to negotiate the price, and the total amount they came back with shocked us all: 500,000 dong. We looked at each other, realizing we had been scammed. (The warnings we had read in reviews flashed through our minds: "Don't eat, don't order, don't get in a car, or do anything without knowing the price beforehand.") This question lingered in our minds even now. If we weren't scammed, then the cost of living here must be incredibly high. Four simple dishes cost us 750 baht in Thai currency, which we considered expensive and not worth the price. We had only paid 400,000 dong for a hot pot the day before. We could only think of it as an experience and laugh it off. Back at the hotel, we each cracked open a beer and enjoyed the cool air. The hotel didn't have air conditioning, only fans, which made us think that the weather here must be cool year-round, unlike back home where air conditioning is essential. We had come to the right place to escape the heat and enjoy the cool weather.
**April 17, 2017**
At 7:00 AM, we gathered in the lobby. Breakfast at the hotel was served as a set menu, including options like fried eggs, omelets, and scrambled eggs, accompanied by bread, tea, coffee, and fruit. Guests could also order pho or rice porridge from the hotel's menu. Today, we planned to visit Fansipan, the highest peak in Indochina, via cable car for both ascent and descent. The minibus arrived on time, and the agent distributed six tickets before we set off together as the rain began to fall. We had checked the weather forecast beforehand and knew that it would rain today. We had discussed with Ms. Houng the possibility of changing the cable car ride to yesterday, which was a Sunday. Ms. Houng informed us that it would be very crowded, so we decided not to change. It was a good thing we didn't, because if we had walked to the Lao Cai village today, it would have been quite chaotic, considering that even without the rain, two people had already slipped and fallen.
The Majestic Fansipan: A Journey Through the Clouds
The cable car station, a modern marvel, stood tall and new, having opened its doors in early 2016. The spacious cabins offered a glimpse of the breathtaking scenery below. A 20-minute ride and a 600-step climb awaited us before reaching the summit of Fansipan, the "Roof of Indochina," towering at 3,143 meters. This peak reigns supreme as the highest mountain in Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam.
However, fate had other plans. The weather turned against us, unleashing a torrent of rain and strong winds, confining us within the station. We sought refuge in a cozy café, sipping coffee while the view outside remained obscured by a thick blanket of fog. We waited with hope, but the rain persisted, sending the temperature plummeting to a chilly 7 degrees Celsius.
With dwindling hope, we donned our raincoats and ventured outside to brave the elements. Reaching the summit was no longer an option, but we captured a few fleeting moments amidst the swirling mist.
We disembarked from the cable car station around noon. Inside the building, there was a restaurant with a salmon hotpot display to attract customers in front of the shop. After checking the price, we found it acceptable: 490,000 VND for a small set, enough for 6 people. Let's go eat to make up for not being able to reach the top of the mountain. The restaurant was beautifully decorated, and the staff gradually brought out the food. Wow, the basket of fresh vegetables was still beautiful, and the tray of salmon was bright orange, so beautiful and tempting. After taking some photos, we started to throw them into the pot one by one. We tasted the soup first. It was fragrant and sweet, and the taste was very good. This meal was another great experience. If you come here, I recommend you to try it, and you will not be disappointed. After we were full and satisfied, we called the driver to pick us up and return to the hotel. Today, we rented a room on the lower floor of the hotel. We gathered and packed our bags before getting on the bus back to Hanoi at 10 pm. We also ordered dinner so that we wouldn't have to go out and look for food. When we arrived at the hotel, we rested at our leisure. Those who wanted to go shopping were free to do so. As for us, we went out to find a cafe to drink by the lake.
It's a shame I couldn't reach the top, but I'll definitely be back to Sapa to fix it.
1 pm: We gathered at the hotel for dinner, which had been pre-ordered. We were curious to see what kind of food we could get for 500,000 dong for 6 people. The dishes started arriving from the kitchen, looking and tasting delicious. We had boiled chicken, tofu soup, stir-fried vegetables, stir-fried pork, and another dish that resembled sweet and sour pork. We devoured everything. Afterwards, we packed our belongings and prepared to walk through the rain to catch the bus at 9 pm. When we arrived at the building housing the Inter line company, which operates night buses to Hanoi, we found it full of foreigners waiting. At 10 pm, the staff called us to board the bus. There were no assigned seats, so the early bird got the worm. The bus was new, and passengers were required to remove their shoes and place them in plastic bags, which was a good rule. The sleeper bus had two levels of beds. The lower level felt like sleeping on the floor of the bus, while the back had four connected beds, which had already been claimed by foreigners. Each passenger received a bottle of water. After two hours of driving, the bus stopped for a bathroom break, and then we slept soundly.
Day 5: April 18, 2017
I woke up to the sound of the bus coming to a stop and the driver shouting "Hanoi!" I checked my watch and it was only 3 am. No one else seemed to be getting off the bus, so I continued to sleep. I was startled awake again when the driver knocked on the side of the bus and yelled "Hanoi!" This time, it seemed like we had actually arrived. The other passengers, mostly foreigners, started to wake up and get off the bus. We collected our luggage and started walking towards Ms. Houng's office (which was located near the bus station). One of our friends was using Google Maps to navigate. As we were walking, a man on a motorbike stopped next to us and asked if we wanted a ride. Our friend who was using Google Maps declined, and the man on the motorbike sped off, nearly hitting our friend. We were shocked and realized that he had tried to snatch our friend's iPhone. Luckily, our friend was holding the phone tightly, and the thief was unable to take it. We were very lucky to have escaped that situation.
**Note:** Be careful and aware of your surroundings when traveling, as there are thieves in every country.
Ms. Houng had the staff take us to her house to rest. The house of the person who sold us the sim card is located near Hoan Kiem Lake. However, the alleyway leading to her house felt like a secret tunnel. It gave us the same feeling as walking through Diagon Alley in Harry Potter. We slept on the floor of her room. She actually invited us to sleep in the room upstairs, but we didn't want to bother her. She was already very kind. We slept until 6 am and then quietly left the house to enjoy the morning view of the lake.
Around the lake, people were exercising and dancing aerobics in groups. They seemed to love exercising. We were looking for a coffee shop and found "The Note Café," a small coffee shop with a big taste. The coconut latte and croissant were delicious. The shop was decorated with sticky notes instead of wallpaper, which looked unique and stylish. The waitress was pretty and had a friendly smile. We asked for permission to take a picture of her to capture her cuteness. After enjoying the lovely waitress and the delicious coffee, it was time to go back to the airport.
8:30 AM: The car arrives to take us to the airport. It's time to say goodbye to Hanoi. The experiences we had in Sapa and Hanoi will stay with us for a long time, especially the smile of the young girl at the coffee shop. Goodbye, Vietnam.
**Total expenses per person excluding meals: 8,401 baht**
1. Round-trip Jetstar flight ticket for 4,085 baht
2. Vietexpress package 97 USD (3,395 THB)
- Train ticket Hanoi- Lao Cai + Van Lao Cai – Sapa
- Bus ticket Sapa-Hanoi
- Cable car + Hotel pick-up and drop-off
- Trekking Lao Cai village
- Airport-Ms Houng office transfer round trip
3.Charming Sapa Hotel booked through Agoda 771/2 nights
4. Hotel rental, luggage storage, and shower: 300,000 VND / 6 people = 50,000 VND per person (75 THB)
5. Cat Cat village 50,000 dong (75 baht)
Other expenses include food, coffee, and drinks, which should not exceed 2,000 baht (depending on souvenirs and luxury items).
***With heartfelt gratitude, we acknowledge the invaluable contributions of our fellow travelers, whose photographs have enriched the narrative of this journey.***
POPPU
Tuesday, October 8, 2024 10:30 AM
