Chapter 1: Backpack Journey to Denchai

This trip coincided with my birthday, so the highlight was on making merit and focusing on inner peace. Additionally, I had personal reasons to visit Phrae. Moreover, I have a strong preference for train travel. When planning trips, my choice of destination is often influenced by the availability of train routes passing through those provinces. Consequently, Phrae became the destination for this trip.

Phrae is a relatively small province, making it easy to navigate the city center. If you're not concerned about appearances, walking around the city is a viable option. However, be aware that sweating can make your face oily, dark, and scary! Walk as much as you can, and if you get tired, rent a motorbike.

Let's get down to business. The best way to get to Phrae is by train. Start by booking a train ticket to Den Chai. Considering the possibility of traffic jams on Fridays, the best option is the 9:09 PM train.

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@Rangsit Railway Station

At Rangsit Station, the seats were scarce, and the waiting crowd was substantial, forcing many to stand. As the evening progressed, passengers gradually boarded the early evening trains, leaving some seats available. We waited, anticipating the train's departure at 21:09 as indicated on the ticket. However, we realized that this was likely the time the train would leave the main station. In reality, the train arrived closer to 22:00. The atmosphere was relaxed and unhurried. The station lacked air conditioning, making it somewhat hot and odorous due to the presence of smokers. The pungent smell of the restrooms wafted through the air, but we persevered. These inconveniences did not dampen our spirits; instead, they served as an exercise in patience.

Why do I like trains?

"I don't know."

But I feel that the journey begins when the train arrives at the platform. That's when I start taking pictures.

Friendship....

Smiles....

Laughter....

Kindness....

It happens easily. I think (my personal opinion) that this is because most people who choose to travel by train are thrifty, easygoing, and uncomplicated. The people you meet will have a simple, down-to-earth lifestyle. Ordinary people. Like the time an auntie wanted to use the bathroom but was afraid the door wouldn't close properly. She kept saying, "Please take me to the bathroom." I've met that auntie twice now, and both times she's asked me to take her to the bathroom. 555+ The first time, I didn't take her because I was hungry and about to eat. But that time, the auntie was very clear that she wanted me to take her. So, I did!

......If it were an airplane, it would be a bit more luxurious. The people on board would come from different social classes. It wouldn't be so down-to-earth anymore. Some might be demanding, believe me..... Or maybe it's just me. I can't relate to them. 555+

I planned to sleep, but I couldn't. .... I chose a seat by the window, or so I thought when I clicked. I clicked to book, paid with my debit card, and printed the ticket again to make sure. Only then did I realize I had clicked wrong and chosen an aisle seat ... -..- Oh well!!! I dozed on and off. Every time I woke up, the guy next to me was playing ROV. He never stopped playing or sleeping. As for me, I could sleep anytime, but I couldn't sleep soundly. Sitting in the aisle seat, I was constantly interrupted. "Would you like some sticky rice, sir? It's hot!" People kept walking by. Just as I was about to fall asleep again, "Would you like some steamed buns, sir? They're hot!" .... =..= Wait, wait, wait. If you come by again, I'm going to eat them!

...... Finally, I arrived at Den Chai Station..... at around 6:30 a.m. .....

The 107 express train from Bangkok to Den Chai has arrived at the platform. Upon arrival in Den Chai, there will be two-row taxis available, but they may be slow as they wait for more passengers. However, we were very hungry, so we took a taxi into town for 100 baht. It wasn't a blue-green-yellow taxi, but rather a local car used as a ride-sharing service, similar to Uber. If you need a ride, you don't even have to look for them; they will approach you themselves.

After regaining our composure at the Phrae Transportation Center, we hoped to find some public transportation. However, either there was none or it was too early in the morning. In the end, we hired a songthaew for a half-day trip. We visited Phra That Cho Hae and Phra That Chom Chaeng, and then headed to our accommodation. The 300 baht fare seemed reasonable to us.

Thai temple fairs are second to none in the world.

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Wat Phra That Chom Chaeng

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After that, we headed straight to the accommodation to drop off our bags. Check-in was at 2:00 PM. We intended to walk around the city center ourselves, as we thought we could handle it. Plus, we wanted to find some new and unusual photo angles.

We stayed at Mee Bed and Breakfast, which has a chic and cool style. The price was also reasonable. Mee Bed and Breakfast is located in the city center of Phrae. The accommodation is beautiful, clean, and peaceful. It has a chic and cool vibe, with plenty of photo opportunities. The service is friendly, and they offer recommendations for sightseeing. The main amenities include free Wi-Fi, a restaurant, a mini-bar, an on-site cafe, free private parking on-site, and free bicycle rentals. This bed and breakfast with breakfast offers air-conditioned rooms with flat-screen TVs and satellite channels. All of this for under a hundred baht!

See more reviews of the accommodation here: >> mee bed and breakfast

Or see only photos of the accommodation click here.

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After checking in at the accommodation, I left my belongings there. The accommodation was playing a movie, and I happened to like the actress in it, so I ended up watching it until the end. During my walk from late morning to afternoon, I started from the accommodation to Kum Wichit Ratcha, stopped for lunch at Pa Jan's noodle shop, and then went to Kum Chao Luang.

Vichai Racha Mansion or Vichai Racha House

The Wisetchaichan Residence, also known as the Wichitchaichan House, was the residence of Phraya Wisetchaichan (Chao Nan Khati Saensinthu), the last Phraya Wisetchaichan of Nakhon Phae and former treasurer of Nakhon Phae. He was the son of Chao Saen Semao Jai, a relative of Chao Luang Thepphawong Lin Tong, the 19th ruler of Nakhon Phae. The residence is located within the old city walls of Phrae, in Nai Wiang Subdistrict, Mueang Phrae District, Phrae Province.

The Khum Wichitracha is a hybrid house that blends the Manila and Gingerbread styles with Lanna architecture. It is adorned with intricate fretwork throughout the building. This type of house was popular among royalty, nobles, and wealthy merchants from the reign of King Rama IV to King Rama V, and its popularity waned towards the end of King Rama VI's reign. This period coincided with the scramble for colonies among Western powers, leading some to call this style "Colonial" due to its introduction and widespread construction in the region by Europeans.

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The story of Khum Wichit Raja is quite extensive. What is written here is just a brief history. Some stories, I'm not sure if they can be revealed. If you want to know more, click here (Just to let you know, the content is about the supernatural).

We would like to preface by stating that we only recently came across the online discussions regarding the supernatural occurrences at this residence. We feel compelled to share that during our visit, while taking photographs, we experienced an overwhelming sense of melancholy and an urge to weep. Our hearts pounded incessantly, and an unsettling silence permeated the atmosphere. Despite not being prone to fear, we felt an inexplicable disquietude. Upon entering the premises, we paid our respects at a small shrine, seeking permission to take photographs. However, the overwhelming unease persisted, prompting us to depart hastily.

For lunch, we stopped at Auntie Chan's Tom Yum Noodle Shop, located near the Vichai Raja Residence.

After a satisfying meal, we continued our journey to the Khum Chao Luang.

We had originally planned to visit Wat Phra Ruang as well, but a funeral was taking place that day, so we decided not to enter.

Khum Chao Luang, also known as Khum Luang Nakhon Phrae, served as the residence of Chao Phae Piriya Thephawong, the 22nd ruler of Nakhon Phrae. It is one of the few remaining Khum Chao Luang (princes' residences) in the Lanna region. Located within the old city walls of Phrae, in Nai Wiang Subdistrict, Mueang Phrae District, Phrae Province, Khum Chao Luang was constructed in 1892 by Chao Phae Piriya Thephawong. The building boasts an impressive structure with 72 doors and windows, adorned with intricate fretwork above the pediment and eaves. It exemplifies the early reign of King Rama V's architectural style, blending Thai and European influences, resulting in the popular "gingerbread" style of that era.

After visiting the Lord's Mansion, I sat down to rest because the sun was scorching. It was a stifling heat, and the mansion, being made entirely of wood, was incredibly hot. I searched for a cool drink and sat down to rest for a long while until the sun was obscured by dark clouds. I then hurried back to my accommodation, but it was too late. The rain poured down. When the rain began to ease, I ran again, but when it poured heavily again, I took shelter under the eaves of a nearby house.

I started to feel that I should have a motorcycle. At least when I see it getting dark, I can rush back to my accommodation in time. As I said, Phrae is a small town, and it only takes a few minutes to walk to each attraction. Therefore, riding a motorcycle should take no more than 10 or 20 minutes. When I returned to my accommodation, I asked them to arrange a motorcycle rental for me. I chose a manual transmission for 180 baht with a 500 baht deposit. The overall condition of the motorcycle was good, and it had a full tank of gas. After picking up the motorcycle, I took a shower, changed my clothes, and blow-dried my hair, which was as wet as a hippopotamus falling into the water, and then went on to Baan Wongburi.

Wongburi House

Khum Wongburi, also known as Ban Wongburi, is located at 50 Kham Lue Road (behind the Governor's Residence, Phra Non Nuea Intersection, near Wat Phongsunanant), Mueang District, Phrae Province. It was the residence of Chao Phrom Wongphrathang, also known as Luang Phongsaphibul, a descendant of the former Lord of Nakhon Phrae, and Chao Sunantha Wongburi (adopted daughter of Mae Chao Buatha Mahayaspan). It received the Outstanding Conservation Award in 1993 from the Association of Siamese Architects under Royal Patronage.

Khum Wongburi was built at the behest of Mae Chao Bua Tha Mahaysapan, the first wife of Chao Luang Piriyaphap Vongsa, the last ruler of Nan, as a gift for the wedding of Chao Sunanta, the daughter of Chao Burirat (Noi Nu Mahaysapan) (her elder brother), whom she adopted as her own daughter, and Luang Phongphibun (Chao Phrom Vongsa Phra Thang). The couple used this house as their bridal chamber during the wedding ceremony.

Khum Vongburi was constructed between 1897 and 1900 by Chinese craftsmen from Guangdong Province, China, with the assistance of local artisans. Its unique status as the residence of a former consort of Chao Luang Phiphatthephawong earned it the designation of "Khum."

The Vongburi House currently serves as a private museum, showcasing the history of the house and the lifestyle of its former noble residents. The displayed artifacts and furnishings have been passed down through generations of the family.

After leaving Baan Wongburi, we continued to Wat Phong Sunan, where there are several attractions located in close proximity.

Watsapongsunan

Wat Phongsunan, located in Ban Phongsunan, Tambon Nai Wiang, was originally known as Wat Pongsanuk. It was once an abandoned temple. To the south of the temple, there is a pond with a turtle statue. Legend has it that Nang Kamphuan, a Burmese woman, drowned in the pond while trying to catch a turtle. Her friend, Sang Tad, built a stupa and four turtle statues around it to commemorate her. In 1929, Phaya Burisripanna renovated the viharn, but it was later damaged by fire and floods. Phaya Burinrat then renovated it again in 1934, with Luang Phong Phibun and Chao Sunanta as the main patrons. The temple was then named Wat Phongsunan. It received the Wisung Kham Sima in 1956. The temple's unique feature is the open-air reclining Buddha along the wall.

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The rain started again. Fortunately, there was a coffee shop nearby. I had already searched for the atmosphere of the shop before going, and it felt very inviting. So I went straight there to avoid the rain. I ordered a glass of iced chocolate for 40 baht, which is a standard price. It was sweet and strong, and I would say it was good.

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In reality, I believe I am very lucky when it comes to traveling. When I went to Phuket, I happened to stumble upon a large market that only appears on specific days. This time, I came across Kad Kong Khao, which is similar to a walking street and only opens on Saturdays. If you're looking for a large, trendy walking street, I was told it only opens on the first Saturday of the month (I think that's right, it was around the beginning of this month). Kad Kong Khao mainly focuses on food, which was great because I explored the area until the evening before returning to my room, so I stopped by to find food to take back. If you're a foodie who enjoys trying new dishes, I recommend checking it out because most of the food is local. I'm not a fan of trying new things, and most of the food looked bland, which I really don't like, so I just bought familiar foods for dinner: dim sum, grilled pork, and spaghetti. Haha.

Kad Kong Khao

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Chapter 3: Day 2: Impressed by the House of a Hundred Pillars

This morning, I set my alarm for 6:30 a.m., but I didn't wake up. 5555+ I had planned to visit the suspension bridge and the Khammee Studio, but it didn't work out. I only visited one house, Ban Pratap Jai. Coincidentally, when I arrived at Ban Pratap Jai, I encountered a group of foreign tourists. As soon as they parked their car, they walked over to pay the entrance fee. I was surprised to see so many tourists. The foreigners were dressed in their usual style, which was appropriate for the hot weather. They wore tank tops, sleeveless shirts, and shorts. The men wore T-shirts and shorts. Then, a woman wearing a floor-length skirt walked by. On this trip, all of my skirts were knee-length (because it was a temple trip). Everyone turned to look at me. I was startled and ran towards the entrance without thinking. Why were they looking at me? When I made eye contact with them, they said "Hi!" or smiled at me, both men and women. I smiled awkwardly and walked/ran straight to the entrance. I felt embarrassed. I should have worn a high-necked shirt. It would have been funny. 55555+

Ban Pratap Jai .... Ban Sao Roi Ton

The impressive Baan Prataphai, located at 59 Moo 13, Pa Mat Subdistrict, is accessible via Highway 1023 (Phrae - Long). Completed in 1976, this magnificent house is constructed entirely of teakwood, featuring 130 large teak logs as pillars, each estimated to be 300 years old. The intricate and exquisite carvings showcase the craftsmanship of the era. The house, a modern adaptation of traditional Thai architecture, occupies over an acre of land. Open daily from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM, the entrance fee for Thai citizens is 20 baht, while the fee for international visitors is to be confirmed. Visitors can contact the house in advance at (054) 511008 or 511282.

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After enjoying our time at Baan Pradujai, we wandered around, looking for something to eat to kill time, and then found a car to Denchai Railway Station. From our accommodation, we walked to a vocational school (I don't remember the name) where there was a queue of cars going to Denchai Railway Station. The fare was 40 baht. After that, we waited for the train according to the schedule to return to Bangkok. That's the end of our trip.

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By: Solo Traveler

Note: Solo Traveler = นักเดินทางเดียว (Traveling alone)

All photos in this trip were taken with a Nikon D3400.

Thank you.

- Thank you -

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