This five-day work-and-leisure trip took place from July 27th to 31st, 2015. During this period, the "Khao Lom Muak" viewpoint was still accessible daily. As usual, we did not make any advance bookings. This time, we opted for a bus instead of a van. We started our journey at the Southern Bus Terminal, inquiring about buses heading to Prachuap Khiri Khan or passing by Ao Manao. After checking with two companies, we learned that we needed to take a bus operated by Phuttha Tal Tour that goes to Prachuap Khiri Khan. The earliest available bus was at 2:30 PM (we arrived around 12:40 PM), and the ticket cost 200 baht.
After finding food and coffee to pass the time until the train's departure, we went down to platform 9 to wait. We sat there until 2:30 PM when the train arrived and we boarded. We waited on the train without being informed of the departure time. Finally, the train departed at 3:30 PM, leaving us sitting on the train for a full hour. The trip started off poorly. As soon as the train started moving, we felt a chill, and our hopes of reaching Prachuap Khiri Khan before sunset were dashed. The train stopped for a long time in Phetchaburi to wait for the driver's relative. Later, it stopped again to buy dinner. We finally arrived in Prachuap Khiri Khan at 8:30 PM. Thankfully, we had stocked up on snacks, or we would have been starving. Upon disembarking, a three-wheeled motorcycle taxi approached and asked where we were headed. We told him "Air Force Base 5, Ao Manao." He immediately quoted a price of 80 baht. We asked if there was food available inside or if we needed to eat beforehand. He assured us that there were restaurants inside that closed at 10 PM, so we felt comfortable entering. The driver then asked where we were staying, and we told him the Air Force Base accommodation, but we didn't know which part (assuming that a local would know where to drop us off). However, the driver took us on a roundabout route and then brought us back to Building 1, which was the closest. He then asked for an additional 20 baht, claiming it wasn't worth his fuel. So, we ended up paying more due to our lack of knowledge. After getting off the motorcycle, we walked into the reception area of the Air Force Welfare Accommodation, also known as "Fah Cham Khleun" or "Condo" by those in the Air Force. We were greeted by two staff members with smiles that were unbelievable for a military camp accommodation. In fact, it was better than many hotels we've stayed at. Fortunately, the room had already been booked for us (as we were there for work). The staff member escorted us to our room. There were no bellhops here; guests had to take care of their own luggage (we were told there was no budget for hiring staff). Upon entering the room, we were surprised to see a wooden floor, which was far above the standard of a welfare accommodation.
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I didn't do much tonight, as I was tired from the journey and had to work the next day. I had a simple dinner at Fah Chamkluen before returning to sleep. The food was delicious and spicy.
A photo of the swimming pool before bed. The pool here is a saltwater pool.
The next morning, I woke up intending to watch the sunrise. However, it had rained heavily during the night, and the sky was overcast. Instead, I stood on the balcony to enjoy the fresh air.
After showering and coming downstairs, there is another spot for taking pictures next to the swimming pool.
Breakfast is not included with the room. Upon inquiry, it is only available during high season (October school break and March-May school break). The restaurant is located in the next building, called "Krua Fah Chom Khluen". Upon arrival, we ordered shrimp congee and hot coffee. Today, we will be working all day and will not have the opportunity to go anywhere.
The next morning, we woke up earlier than usual, even earlier than on workdays. We went for a walk to enjoy the sunrise and the fresh air, starting from our accommodation and going all the way to the end of the beach. The beach here is exceptionally clean, as soldiers come to collect garbage every morning around 5:30 AM. The atmosphere is incredibly peaceful and private.
After completing the circuit, we returned to recharge our batteries, as we intended to explore several locations that day. Our first order of business was to rent bicycles. All of the services here are provided by the families of soldiers in the air force wing, including the restaurants, sunbeds, and various adventure activities. We rented bicycles for 130 baht for the day and had to leave our ID cards as a deposit. Our first stop was the "Khao Lom Muak Shrine." The Khao Lom Muak Shrine is a sacred site that has been revered by the people of Prachuap Khiri Khan for centuries. It is located at the foot of Khao Lom Muak in Ao Manao, Prachuap Khiri Khan Province, within the area under the responsibility of the 5th Air Force Wing. This area was once the site of a major battlefield during World War II, renowned for the bravery of Thai heroes. There are also legends about the sacredness of the Khao Lom Muak Shrine. The shrine houses a statue of the Khao Lom Muak Shrine, a Chinese man with a long beard and a compassionate expression. A stone tablet in front of the shrine describes the Khao Lom Muak Shrine as a Chinese man who migrated from mainland China and settled in this land during the Ayutthaya period. During his lifetime, he performed many good deeds for the land, earning the respect of the people. He died at the age of 97. The power of his good deeds and accumulated merit have made him a sacred spirit, a powerful deity residing at Khao Lom Muak. He blesses and grants happiness and prosperity to all living beings forever. The sacredness of the Khao Lom Muak Shrine is legendary. During World War II, it is said that villagers fled to the shrine to seek his protection from bombs. When Japanese pilots attempted to bomb the Thai stronghold and the Khao Lom Muak Shrine to demoralize the villagers, all the bombs miraculously landed in the sea, sparing the villagers. This astonished the Japanese pilots and soldiers who witnessed the event, and they later came to the shrine to apologize to the Khao Lom Muak Shrine. Even after all these years, the Khao Lom Muak Shrine remains a source of spiritual comfort for the local people and those who come from far and wide to seek blessings.
Beliefs and worship methods
The renowned sacredness of the deity has led to a significant influx of worshippers from Prachuap Khiri Khan and tourists alike. They seek blessings from Chao Pho Khao Lom Muak, believing that he will grant their wishes, particularly those related to their careers. As a token of gratitude for fulfilled desires, devotees often offer traditional Chinese hats known as "kuay leuy" as offerings, as these are believed to be favored by the deity.
We then walked back to the "Southern Spectacled Langur" conservation area. The Southern Spectacled Langur is located within the 5th Air Wing at the foot of Lom Muak Mountain, which can be visited by car. There is a shrine to the Lord of Lom Muak Mountain next to it. We can buy food or bring food to feed the Southern Spectacled Langur. The food available for sale includes roasted peanuts, acacia leaves, and some fruits. However, they do not allow long beans, watermelon, and cucumber to be fed to the langurs. I asked the staff and learned that long beans have pesticide residues, and so do watermelon and cucumber. There was once a case where a whole group died.
The Southern Spectacled Langur, a primate species, exhibits a gentle demeanor unlike its counterparts often encountered at tourist attractions. Its calm and cautious approach to taking food suggests a low population density and良好的 care, resulting in a lack of fear towards humans and remarkable friendliness, allowing even children to hand-feed them. However, it's crucial to avoid teasing these animals. We thoroughly enjoyed feeding the langurs for hours, spending only a hundred baht. The best option is to purchase food from the vendors who are knowledgeable about the langurs' dietary preferences and safety. Don't be alarmed if a langur climbs onto you; they are not aggressive. One even climbed onto my shoulders, while another perched on my head. If you crouch down, they might even climb onto your lap. Their endearing nature is sure to captivate everyone.
We then chose to climb Khao Lom Muak to pay homage to the footprint of the Buddha. "Khao Lom Muak" is a mountain located at the sharp peak between Ao Manao and Ao Prachuap Khiri Khan, with a height of 902 feet. It is a limestone mountain on the top of Khao Lom Muak, where a replica of the Buddha's footprint is enshrined. Visitors can enjoy beautiful views of Ao Prachuap Khiri Khan and Ao Manao, with Khao Chong Krachok and Ao Noi visible in the distance. The path to the top of Khao Lom Muak is a steep limestone cliff in many sections, so it is advisable to wear appropriate footwear.
The initial ascent involves stairs with handrails, offering scenic viewpoints at intervals.
The first viewpoint with a view of Ao Manao Bay
Continuing on, you will encounter another point where you can clearly see Ao Manao Bay.
At the top of the stairs on the left-hand side (facing the mountain), there is another beautiful viewpoint offering a clear view of Ao Manao, the inner area of the airbase, and Ao Prachuap. It's a bit tiring, as I mentioned earlier, but the view is worth it.
The ascent from here onwards requires us to climb with ropes. At certain points, there will be two ropes. It is important to wear sneakers for this climb. On that day, we made the mistake of wearing flip-flops. Our shoes kept getting stuck in the crevices of the rocks, causing us to lose our rhythm multiple times. The final stretch before reaching the top is even steeper. While we weren't worried about the ascent, we started to worry about the descent. Would our flip-flops get us down safely? Or would we end up with a souvenir scar as a reminder of our stubbornness? However, once we reached the top, we were thoroughly impressed. The cool breeze was incredibly refreshing.
Upon arrival, they paid their respects at the temple and the footprint of the Buddha.
The back of the Buddha statue faces Ao Manao Bay.
The front faces Ao Prachuap and Ao Noi, which are located in the distance.
After resting, we began the descent, which I found challenging due to the steep incline and my flip-flops. The entire ascent and descent took approximately 1 hour and 15 minutes. Upon reaching the bottom, we inquired with a food vendor about the possibility of crossing the "Talay Haek" (sea parting). He confirmed it was possible and advised us to return before 2 pm. Checking our watches, we saw it was only 12:35 pm, leaving us ample time. We then proceeded on our pink bicycles, chosen by the soldiers, towards the "Talay Haek" crossing point. Unlike the sandy beaches of Krabi, the path here was a mixture of sand and mud due to the prevalence of fishing activities in the Gulf of Prachuap Khiri Khan, resulting in an accumulation of oil and other residues. The terrain required careful navigation due to its slippery nature.
Upon reaching the first island, Koh Hai Lam (as confirmed by officials at Ao Manao), visitors will find the Phra Buddha Sihing statue and the shrine of Prince Chumporn.
After paying respects, continue walking to Koh Rom, the adjacent island. This island is home to the first sea level marker in Thailand, located at the front of the island.
The rain came suddenly, forcing us to run back to the other side of the river. We were soaked to the bone. We returned to the World War II Historical Park, but the museum was only open on weekends and holidays. Group visits require prior written permission. We were unable to see the inside, but we did see the old buildings.
The December 8, 1941 War Heroes Monument is a memorial site containing the remains of heroes who died during the war. The flag seen is the Victory Flag (according to the officer).
The "December 8, 1941 Heroic Deeds" engraved stone is a low-relief stone carving that replicates the events depicted on a 60-ton green sandstone pillar.
A decommissioned aircraft
After recharging our phones for an hour, we set off from the airbase at 3 pm under the scorching afternoon sun to pay our respects at the Luang Por Laem Shrine in Prachuap Khiri Khan, the largest city pillar shrine in Thailand.
Our next destination was Khao Chong Krachok, but on the night we arrived, we saw a sign for the beautiful Muang Sam Ao, so we cycled there to find a spot to take photos before heading up to Khao Chong Krachok.
Upon entering Wat Thammakikaram Worawihan, we were immediately greeted by a monkey food vendor. We politely declined, stating that we would like to pay our respects at the temple first.
After paying respects at the temple, we bought two bags of food for the monkeys for 20 baht. We left our bicycles there and began climbing the 396 steps to the viewpoint overlooking the three bays.
The two bays, Ao Prachuap and Ao Manao, are popular spots for panoramic photos. Ao Noi is located on the opposite side.
Before going down, you will see a sign, so you have to take a picture.
Aerial view of the surrounding landscape from Khao Chong Krachok.
Enjoying the ride today, so let's go all the way to Khao Tham Mong Lai Forest Park. The scenery along the way is beautiful.
The entrance to Khao Ta Mong Lai Forest Park has been reached.
On the way back, the sun began to set, and the light became increasingly beautiful.
The next day, we had another day of work. In the evening, we went cycling again, but this time we had a better bike with gears. Today, we chose to go to the Khlong Wa side.
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On our fifth and final day at Ao Manao, we opted for a boat tour of the bay. The boat belonged to a military family, and the cost was 1,000 baht for 10 people. However, as only three of us were available, we paid a reduced rate. The boat service was located near the dolphin statue.
The first stop, as the driver informed us, was the Giantess Cave.
The next point is a snorkeling spot. In some areas, there are hard corals where you can stand.
Next is the White Sand Beach stop, where you can swim. Above, there is a cave with a shrine that the villagers worship inside.
The boat driver then took us around Koh Aen and circled back to the front of the island to reach the snorkeling spot to see coral, tiger cowries, and sea urchins.
The boat ride took just over an hour. Upon disembarking, we cycled to see the spectacled langurs again, captivated by their charm.
Before returning home, the officers from the agency where we were working invited us to pay respects to Luang Pho Piem at Wat Koh Lak. It is believed that Luang Pho Piem helps with safety, and many soldiers come to pray for his blessings.
Things to understand
- During peak season, you may not be able to secure a room at the Air Force Welfare Accommodation.
- Pets are not allowed on the premises, and cooking is prohibited. (Pet boarding services are available.)
The services within the airbase are all operated by military families, which may differ from the private sector we are accustomed to. For example, bicycle rentals are only available from 8:00 AM to 6:00 PM, and there is no overnight service.
- Access is restricted due to military zone regulations.
- Several areas within the 5th Air Wing are off-limits to photography due to their strategic importance for security purposes. These include the airport and restricted areas near the Khao Lom Muak ascent.
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