Nan Province is renowned for its breathtaking landscapes, characterized by vast emerald rice fields stretching as far as the eye can see, against a backdrop of towering mountains and a cerulean sky. These scenes evoke the idyllic landscapes often depicted in childhood art projects or the enchanting murals of Pu Maan and Ya Maan whispering sweet nothings on the walls of Wat Phumin. Beyond its picturesque vistas, Nan offers a myriad of captivating attractions, beckoning visitors to immerse themselves in its rich cultural heritage and natural wonders. It is an ideal destination for couples seeking a romantic escape amidst the splendor of nature.

Our journey began at Don Mueang Airport, where we boarded an AirAsia flight. We had booked the tickets months in advance during a promotion, securing them for a mere hundred baht.

After checking in and printing our boarding passes, we stopped for lunch at Bonchon near Gate 60, a regular spot for us to grab a bite before our flights. The prices are slightly higher than outside the airport, but still reasonable.

AirAsia offers two daily flights to Nan Province, departing at 7:35 AM and 2:35 PM. The flight duration is approximately one hour.


Our arrival at Nan Nakhon Airport was delayed by approximately one hour due to heavy rainfall. As a result, we were diverted to Chiang Mai Airport for refueling before returning to Nan. The newly renovated Nan Nakhon Airport is impressive.


Upon exiting the baggage claim area, proceed to the Thai Rent A Car counter located on the left-hand side. Present your identification card, driver's license, and credit card. The company will place a 10,000 baht hold on your credit card as a security deposit, which will be refunded approximately 14 days after the vehicle is returned.


The staff will drive the car to the front of the passenger terminal for us to inspect for scratches around the vehicle. Our technique is to take pictures of any scratches we find for peace of mind. We will then sign for the car and drive to our accommodation, which is not far from the airport (the airport is very close to the city center).



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On our first night, we stayed at TA-LI Homestead, a three-story loft-style accommodation built with a combination of concrete and wood. The warm atmosphere made us feel as if we were visiting relatives in the countryside.

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The ground floor houses the lobby, dining room, and living room.

All guest rooms are located on the 2nd and 3rd floors.

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The center features a lounge area for relaxation.

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Our Deluxe King Room features polished wood walls and floors, bathed in warm orange lighting for a cozy ambiance.


The bed and pillows were very soft. The room was spacious and airy, with no dampness or dust, even though it was a wooden room.


The room is fully equipped with amenities, including a TV, free Wi-Fi, a hairdryer, a refrigerator, and air conditioning.


The bathroom is spacious and clean, equipped with a water heater, soap, and shampoo.


We then took a stroll along the walking street near Wat Phumin, which was only 350 meters from our accommodation, taking less than 5 minutes to walk.

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A walking street is open every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. It is a short walking street divided into two zones. The first zone is for clothes, accessories, decorations, and souvenirs. The other zone is for a variety of food menus.

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When visiting local walking streets in the provinces, Taklom never misses the opportunity to shop for local clothing.


Notably, the woven patterns on loincloths, sarongs, or sinh, signify the unique identity of each region.

A light drizzle began to fall shortly after the walk began, but the shops continued to operate as usual.


There was a wide variety of food to choose from, but our favorite was the Mi Yำ Muang Nan, which had soft noodles and a well-balanced flavor. Due to the rain, we were unable to sit and eat at the front of Wat Phumin, so we bought food and ate it back at our hotel.


The second day began with breakfast at the hotel, which was served on woven bamboo trays, one set per person.

The meal consisted of steamed rice and three side dishes: stir-fried bamboo shoots with peanut sauce, pickled mustard greens, and stir-fried water spinach with fresh vegetables. The owner also offered a small cup of black sesame paste for dipping. All the dishes were delicious, and the owner was very friendly and welcoming.

A light drizzle had been falling since early morning and showed no signs of stopping. As a result, the plan to wake up and offer alms to the monks was canceled. Instead, we snuggled under warm blankets until almost 11 am, before checking out of our accommodation.

Today's plan is to travel to Pua district for an overnight stay. However, before we set off, we will stop by Cafe Amazon opposite Wat Phumin to enjoy a refreshing cup of coffee.

After finishing their meal, they stopped to take photos in the rain in front of an old house door, located in front of the coffee shop.

However, our journey was put on hold as we embarked on a new mission: to find a cotton tank top. Last night, Taklom tried on a tank top and loved it, so he wanted to get another one. We went to the OTOP Nan Center near Wat Phumin to look for it, but we couldn't find the color and size he wanted.

Our journey continued to Pua district, located approximately 60 kilometers north of Nan city. The drive took about an hour, depending on weather conditions. Our first stop was Baan Hu Na Mushroom Farm for lunch.

Nestled at the foot of the mountain, this establishment offers a selection of food and beverages to cater to the needs of travelers.

The front view offers a panoramic vista of verdant rice fields stretching as far as the eye can see, with a small river meandering through the landscape.

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Most dishes will include a variety of mushrooms, depending on the type of cuisine.

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A must-try menu item is the mushroom pizza, priced at 140 baht. The pizza features a soft crust and a delicious combination of mushrooms and cheese.


The next location, not far away, is the Ban Tai Lue coffee shop.



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A coffee shop nestled by a rice field, with a wooden walkway leading to a small pavilion for relaxation and enjoying the view.


A thatched-roof pavilion with woven bamboo flooring offers comfortable cushions and pillows for lounging or napping.

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The atmosphere is fantastic, beyond words. You have to experience it yourself to understand.



The freshly brewed coffee is delicious and costs around 30-50 baht per cup. The view in front, however, is priceless.

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In the center of the field, the beautiful Cleome flowers, also known as spider flowers, are in full bloom. Visitors are welcome to walk in and admire them up close.

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The walkway is made up of large wooden planks in some sections and bamboo in others. It forms a circular loop that leads back to the shop, but caution is required when walking on it.


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The view before us finally matched the idyllic landscapes we used to draw in elementary school art class.


A young goat is walking around.


There are large water turbines that are still operational.



"Take a picture that makes my face look slimmer." - Goat

This coffee shop is our all-time favorite, as its ambiance transforms childhood fantasies into reality.


Adjacent to the coffee shop is a local clothing store offering a wide variety of garments in diverse styles, providing customers with an extensive selection.

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One of them is the sleeveless cotton shirt in the color and size that Luklom was looking for this morning.


Next, we headed to Tanong Homestay, our accommodation for the night, located near Pua District.

The homestay in the middle of the rice field that we have been eyeing for a year, we immediately booked it after we got our plane tickets.


There are several rooms in this house. Our room is located on the third floor of the main house, which is the only room on that floor.

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The spacious room features a king-size bed in the center. Amenities include a TV, air conditioning, and complimentary Wi-Fi. A shared refrigerator is available on the second floor.

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The room has a private bathroom with a hot water heater. However, there are many insects, especially on the wire mesh near the ventilation opening above and on the bathroom floor. This is because the accommodation is located in the middle of a rice field, attracting insects to the lights. This may not be suitable for people with allergies, as it can cause itching and discomfort.

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For dinner, a Khantoke set menu can be ordered from the hotel for 130 baht per person, excluding drinks.


Sitting by the fountain pool, the atmosphere was pleasant and the food was delicious. There were only a few mosquitoes, around two or three.

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The cool night air was punctuated by the gentle patter of rain on the roof. The chorus of crickets and frogs provided a soothing lullaby, ensuring a peaceful night's sleep. Waking up naturally at six o'clock on Monday morning, without the need for an alarm clock.

The morning air was filled with a light mist that hung over the mountaintops. Scattered across the sky were clusters of gray clouds.

The palpable density and purity of the oxygen before me made me wish for an additional pair of lungs.

Flowers and blades of grass glisten with dewdrops.

A portrait of one of the choir members

Musical instruments used to create the sound of flowing water.

A view from the rooftop of a bamboo hut in the middle of a rice field.

A light breakfast of rice porridge to start the day.

The homestay offers traditional Hmong clothing and hats for rent for taking photos in the rice fields. The rental fee is at your discretion.

During our visit in early August, the rice plants were in their early stages of growth, with young leaves unfurling and reaching towards the rain.

We checked out of our accommodation in the late morning and headed to Wat Rong Ngae, an ancient temple of the Tai Lue community, located just 6 kilometers from our accommodation.

Wat Rong Naeng is believed to have been built in 1767 by Chao Luang Thep Panya Len, the lord of the white elephant with green tusks. The temple houses an ancient viharn (prayer hall) showcasing the exquisite and distinctive beauty of Thai Lue art.

The interior of the vihara houses the principal Buddha image in the posture of subduing Mara. The walls of the vihara are adorned with ancient murals depicting scenes from the life of the Buddha and Jataka tales.

The ceiling was adorned with colorful tung flags, offerings from villagers to the temple to dedicate merit to their deceased relatives.

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A woven bamboo tray in the shape of a square, filled with flowers, is an offering brought by villagers to the temple every year on Loy Krathong Day for good luck.


The two grandmothers, who are the knowledge transmitters of woven bamboo sieves and gratings.


Not far from the temple is the shrine of Chao Luang Thep Phaya Len Chang Phuek Nga Khieo, which is located in the middle of a rice field.


A monument honoring King Theppanya Len, who had a white elephant with green tusks as his royal elephant.


Across from the entrance to Wat Rong Ngae is the exhibition hall "From Sip Song Panna to Ban Rong Ngae".

The interior showcases information and images that narrate the history, customs, traditions, and way of life of the Tai Lue people of Ban Rong Ngae.


The side of the exhibition building displays examples of Tai Lue houses, household items, and tools for making a living.


Not far from Wat Rong Ngae is Wat Phukhet, a temple that is not located in Phuket province.


The highlight of Wat Phuket is the viewing platform, which offers panoramic views of the lush green rice fields stretching as far as the eye can see, with mountains and the sky as the backdrop.

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Another highlight is the large ordination hall, which features stunning murals.



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At the foot of the mountain, on the way down from Wat Phukhao, there are shops selling hand-woven fabrics from the Tai Lue weaving group in Ban Ket. Visitors can stop by to admire and purchase these fabrics according to their budget.

We then drove back to Nan city. It rained intermittently along the way. We had lunch at Heuan Pukha.

A restaurant decorated in Lanna style, with the soft sounds of Kham Muang music playing in the background.

The local cuisine of Nan offers a wide variety of dishes to choose from. One highly recommended dish is stir-fried acacia pennata with egg.

After a satisfying meal, we continued our journey to Wat Phumin.

The most important religious structure of the temple is the four-faced ordination hall.

Within the base of the large four-faced Buddha statue with a startled serpent, the procession of the ordination hall is held in the middle of the serpent's body.

The murals, or "hoo buttom," inside the ordination hall were painted by Nan Bua Phan, a Tai Lue artist during the reign of Chao Anantaworaritthedi in 1867. They depict stories from the life of the Buddha and his previous lives.


And a glimpse into the urban lifestyle of that era.


The highlight of Wat Phumin that attracts all visitors is the image of Pu Maan and Ya Maan, which refers to a man and a woman from the ancient Tai Lue whispering to each other. This image is the origin of the phrase "whispering love that echoes around the world".

The image of "Whisper of Love for Grandpa Man and Grandma Man" features an elegant caption in the Lanna language. This caption was later translated by Professor Somjet Wimalakasem, an expert in Lanna literature, who beautifully rendered the text as follows:

"I'm afraid my love for you will be chilled by the water if I leave it there."

Entrusting it to the sky, the air, the vast expanse, fearing the clouds and mist that gather.

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So I kept it in my heart, asking for my brother to keep it safe, oh oh.

To my younger brother, every time you wake up startled in your sleep.

The final temple on this trip is Wat Ming Mueang, which houses the main city pillar of Nan province.


The most striking feature of the city pillar shrine and the ordination hall is the intricate and delicate white stucco work.


The principal Buddha image enshrined within the ubosot is named Luang Pho Phra Si Ming Mueang.


The temple boasts stunning murals depicting the legendary history of Nan province.


We then rushed to Nan Nakhon Airport, filling the car's tank before returning it at the airport. We flew back to Bangkok on AirAsia's 4:00 PM flight, the last one of the day. This concluded our 3-day, 2-night trip to Nan Nakhon, where we whispered sweet nothings to our loved one.


Travel details are summarized as follows:

Day 1

  1. Depart from Don Mueang Airport on Airasia flight FD 3556 at 2:35 PM.
  2. Check in to Tha Li Homestay.
  3. Stroll through the Nan Walking Street.


DAY 2
1. Enjoy breakfast at the hotel and a coffee break at Cafe Amazon opposite Phumin Temple.
2. Shop for local handicrafts at the Nan OTOP Center.
3. Have lunch at Baan Hua Nam Mushroom Farm in Pua District.
4. Sip afternoon coffee and admire the rice field views at Baan Tai Lue Cafe in Pua District.
5. Shop for local clothing at the store next to Baan Tai Lue Cafe.
6. Check in to your homestay at Tanong Homestay in Pua District.

DAY 3
1. Breathe in the fresh morning air at Tanong Homestay.
2. Visit Wat Rong Ngae and the Ho Chao Luang Thep Phaya Len Chang Phek Ngao Kiew in Pua District.
3. Explore the exhibition "From Sip Song Panna to Ban Rong Ngae".
4. Enjoy the scenic rice fields at Wat Phukhao in Pua District.
5. Shop for hand-woven fabrics at the Tai Lue weaving group in Ban Get, Pua District.
6. Have lunch at Heuan Phaka Restaurant in Nan city.
7. See the world-famous "Whispering of Love" mural at Wat Phumin.
8. Pay respects at the Nan City Pillar Shrine at Wat Ming Mueang.
9. Depart for Bangkok on Airasia flight FD 3557 at 4:00 PM.

Expense Summary:

1. Roundtrip Flight Tickets (Don Mueang - Nan): 780 Baht per person (promotional price, booked in advance) 2. Car Rental (2 days): 2,400 Baht 3. Fuel: 360 Baht 4. Accommodation (Tha Li Homestay, Deluxe King Room): 1,760 Baht for 1 night 5. Accommodation (Tanong Homestay, Standard Room): 700 Baht for 1 night (including breakfast) 6. Food and Other Expenses: As desired

Total expenses for 3 days and 2 nights: 6,780 Baht (approximately 3,390 Baht per person)

***Supported by Thai Rent A Car***

Thick Eyebrows & Round Eyes
Love is a journey | Because love is a journey...

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