Go ahead and go. “Right now.”

By chance, we had the opportunity to take a three-day break with only a week's notice. The first thought that popped into our heads was that we had to pack our bags and go somewhere. The last time we had a three-day break, we managed to book a last-minute trip to India, so surely we could find somewhere to go this time too.

Our goal for this trip was to go anywhere with lush greenery and fresh air, ideally in a forest. We had three days off and really wanted to immerse ourselves in nature. Coincidentally, the song "One Day I Walked into the Forest" by Max Jenmana was popular at the time, further fueling our desire for a woodland adventure.

We stumbled upon a province known as the "City of Mountains and Sea," dotted with countless small and large mountains. This discovery perfectly aligned with our passion for mountains.

Despite securing a suitable location, we faced a shortage of participants. We attempted to attract members by proposing a travel plan (improvised) with enticing photos, but the challenge lay in the fact that our days off coincided with weekdays for most people. While we were able to enjoy our time off, others had to take two consecutive days off work, often with short notice. Consequently, almost everyone declined our invitation once they learned the travel dates, despite initially expressing interest in joining the trip.

The stunning scenery of the mountains in Loei Province attracted four easygoing individuals to join our group. As soon as we had a full group, we booked our flights. We booked our tickets on Monday and flew to Loei Province on Thursday.

Since you want to go, you have to go "beyond".

DAY 1: Khao Piek Pak Ma, Phu Bo Bit National Park, Phu Ruea

This morning's flight from Bangkok to Loei was an exciting one. As we entered Loei's airspace, we were greeted by a breathtaking view of rolling hills and mountains shrouded in a light mist. The lush greenery stretched as far as the eye could see, fulfilling our desire for a scenic escape.

Upon arriving at Loei Airport, I pondered my next move. Having booked my flight only three days in advance, my travel plans were somewhat fluid. I decided to explore Loei City on the first day, hike Mount Phu Luang on the second, and leave the third day open for spontaneity.

We opted for a van from the airport to the bus terminal (50 baht per person). Seated behind the driver, we seized the opportunity to inquire about local insights.

We: Excuse me, where is Phupha Lom? (I saw the sign at the airport)
Van driver: ...Uh...what?
We: Phupha Lom.
Van driver: ..................
We: Uh, never mind. Do you know the Phra Phothisat Cave?
Van driver: Phra Phothisat Cave... (silence)
We: ...Okay, never mind.

(I don't know, and I don't know either. It's okay, I was just asking in case you knew.)

Upon arriving at the bus terminal, we were immediately approached by a group of friendly locals offering to show us around the city. Overwhelmed by their enthusiasm, we struggled to decide on a destination. Fortunately, a kind tuk-tuk driver named Uncle Püd offered to take us on a tour of the city.

Khao Piek Pak Ma (Spicy Rice Noodle Soup)

This restaurant is one of the famous ones that people say you must try when visiting Loei. The menu that the owner, known for being loud (as the restaurant's name suggests), recommended for us to try was Khao Piek with egg (35 baht) and Moo Yor (50 baht).

For an enhanced culinary experience, we recommend generously adding chili powder to the Khao Piek, which will elevate the flavor profile and provide a delightful tingling sensation. The portion size of the sliced Moo Yor sausage may be excessive for a party of two; we found that dividing it among four individuals provided an optimal balance. Consuming a larger quantity could potentially lead to satiety.

Phu Bo Bit Forest Park

From Pak Ma Restaurant, we opted to take Uncle Pead's car to Phu Bo Bid, a hill not too far away by car. It turned out to be a good choice, as we arrived quickly.

This hill is located at an altitude of 520 meters above sea level, which is not very high, but it offers a pleasant view of the city in the afternoon as the sun sets. The weather is cool and breezy.

There are two ways to reach the starting point of the mountain climb: 1) a 1-kilometer walk, or 2) a ride up in a vehicle. Uncle Pood generously allowed us to choose our preferred method of ascent. Naturally, we opted for the second option.

Ta-da!

Despite choosing the second route, as we approached the path suitable for vehicles, Uncle Pood abruptly stopped the car and signaled us to get out. He explained that his three-wheeled vehicle was unable to handle the incline and would not be able to transport all four of us (including himself) along with our luggage. Therefore, we were forced to walk from that point to the starting point.

The ascent to the mountain begins with a climb up slightly steep concrete stairs, with several groups of chickens on either side. We recommend dressing modestly when visiting Phu Bo Bid, as we encountered monks descending the path at intervals, and there is also a cave temple at the top.

The ascent begins with concrete steps, transitioning to a combination of stone and concrete steps, interspersed with earthen paths. Handrails are provided along the entire route, ensuring safety and ease of navigation. For those concerned about hydration, the summit features a cave containing bottled water. While consumption is likely permitted, a donation to the water fund and transportation costs is recommended.

After passing the Phra Cave, paying respects to the Buddha, and signing your name, you will find a path of steel stairs for continuing your climb to the top of the mountain. These stairs are sturdy and durable.

Before reaching the summit, you will encounter a cave with a small opening that allows one person to pass through and climb to the highest point of the mountain. However, there is also a regular path to the summit. After exiting the cave, you can simply climb the stairs to reach the top.

The Summit of Phu Bo Bit

Upon reaching the summit, one can observe the cityscape from both the urban perspective, showcasing rooftops and houses, and the natural perspective, highlighting the mountainous landscape. It is recommended to walk around the peak for a comprehensive view.

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The summit offers a scenic trail that winds through trees and rock formations, providing unique panoramic views from different vantage points. The cool, refreshing air invigorates the senses, making it an unforgettable first impression of the trip.

As you descend back down to the base of the mountain, keep an eye out for cotton plants, especially during the appropriate season. While locals may not be fazed, city kids like us are easily excited. We were incredibly fortunate to witness this for the first time in our lives. Initially, we thought someone had stuffed the trees with cotton.

At Phu Ruea

The group continued their journey by car, following the directions provided by Uncle Puid. As they entered the Phurua area, the temperature dropped significantly, sending chills down their spines. Despite being only a short distance from the city, the temperature had plummeted to a mere 17 degrees Celsius. The cold even permeated the toilet seat covers, adding an extra layer of discomfort.

Tonight's accommodation is called Phusamhao, which we found after searching online. The decoration is in the style of a junk boat, which is quite interesting. Initially, we were going to book a tent, but luckily we decided to choose a room instead, as the weather is cold. It's hard to believe that just a few hours ago we were sweating in the hot Bangkok weather. We didn't think it would be this cold here, so the clothes we brought are not at all suitable.

The largest Christmas market in Loei

Nestled in a secluded alleyway leading up to Phu Ruea Mountain, a magnificent clearing emerges, adorned with rows of vibrant red and green poinsettia trees. A colossal sign proudly proclaims: "Phu Ruea Christmas Festival, 6th Edition." Locals whisper that every year, these festive trees grace the clearing, only to be relocated and replanted elsewhere by the end of January.

Som Tum Na Phu Ruea Restaurant

The evening air was chilly, and we were forced to walk around hungry in search of food. None of the restaurants in our alley were open, not even the small shops in the market by the main road. Luckily, there was one som tam and grilled chicken restaurant open in the alley. The restaurant was divided into two sections: the left half sold som tam and grilled chicken, while the right half was an air-conditioned room that rented out Thai costumes for pre-wedding photoshoots.

Every dish, from the papaya salad and minced pork salad to the stir-fried eggs with fragrant mushrooms, was incredibly delicious. The bold and spicy flavors left us wanting more and eager to discover the name of this restaurant so we can return for another satisfying meal.

Our group: What's the name of this restaurant?
Som Tum Restaurant: The restaurant... the restaurant... doesn't have a name. It just sells som tum in general.
Our group: We just wanted to know in case we wanted to recommend it to our friends.
Som Tum Restaurant: Oh... (glancing at her own restaurant)... let's call it Golf Rental Shop then.

Cuteness level 1: Seriously, recommending friends to eat som tum in Loei and getting the restaurant's name like this, wouldn't your friends be confused? "Hey, next time you're near Phu Ruea, don't forget to stop by the Golf Rental Shop for some som tum." 2-in-1 right there.

If you're looking for delicious papaya salad, check out Golf Set Rental. It's located directly opposite the Christmas field.

Fermented fish salad with fresh shiitake mushroom omelet - a must-try.

DAY 2: Phu Luang and Chiang Khan

This morning, we set off for Phu Luang, but before we could reach Phu Luang, we had to survive the 10-degree cold. This morning was even colder than last night. It started from how to jump from the bed to the bathroom, trying to minimize the number of tiles (freezing cold) that our feet touched.

Imagine dancing to the song "Silly Fools" by Silly Fools, especially the part that says, "No matter how cold it is, I will break through." This will greatly enhance your experience of the emotions of that moment.

Phu Luang Wildlife Sanctuary (Wildlife Non-Hunting Area), Loei Province

The temperature in the bedroom, even with the air conditioner off and the door tightly closed, is already so cold. The ascent to Phu Luang and the ride in the back of a pickup truck are even more unbearably cold. It's so cold that the villagers along the way have to build bonfires and huddle around them, making me want to join them.

After passing through the community area, the atmosphere on the way up to Phu Luang is filled with lush green trees. This is exactly what I wanted!!! But it also comes at the cost of being hit by the wind, making my face tense and cold all the way. Anyway, it's still worth it at this point.

Note:

Before ascending to the peak of the mountain, we had to stop to register and pay the park entrance fee. During this time, Mr. Suchart, our driver for the day, picked some wild tamarind and distributed it to our waiting friends. Our friend later told us that Mr. Suchart picked the tamarind while boasting that wild tamarind is sweet. After saying this, he took a bite to show us. Crunch! And then suddenly... Spit! Ugh!

Cuteness level 2: Truth is immortal, the truest thing on this trip, truly unmatched, no one surpasses Mr. Suchart, no need to suppress any feelings, tears of laughter.

After the "Thruuuyyy" incident, we cut to a scene of us paying the entrance fee.

We paid the entrance fee without knowing what to expect. A friendly friend approached us and offered us a taste of a sweet tamarind. (This happened after our friend witnessed the incident with the uncle.) We accepted the tamarind, examined it briefly, and took a bite. To our surprise, it was incredibly bitter! Our friend laughed heartily at our contorted expression.

As we ascended to the summit of Phu Luang, the conversation revolved around wild tamarind. Finally, we reached the true peak of Phu Luang, which stands at an elevation of 1,400 meters above sea level, nearly three times higher than Phu Bo Bid, which we visited yesterday. Imagine the temperature below at 17 degrees Celsius; on this peak, the cold intensifies, necessitating the use of a down jacket.

Nature Trail 1: Pha Yueng

The hiking trails of Phu Luang are divided into three routes. The nearest route starts from the car park and takes only a few minutes to reach Pha Yueng.

Lush greenery, but not many flowers in bloom due to the winter season. The air is rather dry.

Nature Study Trail 2: Sunken Plaza

Route 2: This route is a loop of approximately 2 kilometers, and it does not retrace its steps. The four of us took 2 hours to walk it, as we made frequent stops to explore, take pictures, and rest at particularly scenic spots.

For this hike, it is advisable to bring a warm jacket as the unpredictable weather can leave you shivering. Along the trail, you will encounter scattered wildflowers.

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This trail features approximately 21 points of interest marked by signs (including the entrance and exit). The highlight of the trail on the day we visited was:

Point 20: The Origin of the River, the End of Life (Tree)

This is a stream and a large tree. You can see the image of a tree stream and hear the sound of water flowing down and hitting the rocks. The sound of the wind blowing gently makes the leaves move, along with the cold, humid, and cool air. It's enough to captivate us viewers.

Nature Study Trail 3: Pha Chang Pass, Pha Somdet

The final trail, which officials initially discouraged us from taking due to concerns about thick fog obscuring the view, was attempted again at noon. This trail offered the furthest distance for exploration and the potential for wildlife encounters.

A short distance from the starting point, there will be a Maple tree (with red leaves) on the left-hand side. Please pay close attention.

We had not walked far when we began to encounter elephant dung and fresh footprints. The color and condition of the dung suggested that the elephants had passed by recently. We were excited at the prospect of seeing them in the wild, but we also knew that an encounter could be dangerous.

Elephant's Passage Cliff

After walking for 1 kilometer, you will reach Pha Chang Pass, which offers stunning views of the distant mountains.

King's Cliff

We continued walking from Pha Chang for another 1 km until we reached Pha Somdej. From Pha Somdej, we could see Pha Telin, a mountain with layers of rock. I wanted to jump out and take a picture of the mountain from the front. It would be beautiful.

Due to the late start of our journey, we were concerned about the potential dangers ahead, especially after seeing fresh elephant dung. Therefore, we decided to retrace our steps and return to the starting point, where Mr. Prajak Makhampom was waiting for us.

After leaving Phu Luang, I felt that the trip was worth it. The goal of wanting to go to a green area with good air and finding good things has been achieved. Now, we let P' Prajak take us on another trip before continuing to Chiang Khan tonight.

Wat Pa Huai Lad

Following my request for a tour, Prajak took us to a temple for a blessing ceremony. Thank you, brother. The pious are also present.

This temple is quite large, both in terms of its grounds and the temple building itself. The Buddha statue inside is also magnificent. Outside the temple, there are various sculptures, which are different from other temples I have visited.

Huai Krathing Reservoir (Harirak Forest Park)

We requested a stop at the Huai Krathing Reservoir, which we had seen a sign for on our way to Phu Ruea. Our driver, Prajak, informed us that the restaurant below offers a unique dining experience where tourists can enjoy their meals on a floating raft while taking in the scenic views. While this sounded appealing, we unfortunately did not have enough time during this trip to indulge in this activity.

We checked into our accommodation, which was a bit of a shock due to the cold. The bathroom was outdoors, which meant we had to shower and use the toilet in the chilly wind. Brrr!

Chiang Khan Walking Street

Our first visit to Chiang Khan was approximately seven years ago, if I recall correctly. Since then, we haven't returned. This time, it feels like we're reliving the memories and positive impressions from our previous visit.

The warm atmosphere continues to be seen, with cute and walkable scenes along the way.

This time I found a shop selling wooden postcards. They are made of wood, can be sent for real, and are not expensive. How could I miss it?

A popular street food option is grilled shrimp, which can be eaten whole. Vendors selling shrimp skewers are a common sight along the walking street. The hot, salty, and savory grilled shrimp is a perfect snack for the cool weather, and it's easy to understand why it's a best-seller.

Another simple yet incredibly tempting menu item is the "Khao Jee," a grilled rice cake. The sight of it being grilled hot and topped with a generous amount of egg is enough to make anyone's mouth water. Despite the long queue, we couldn't resist the urge to try it.

Before heading back to our accommodation, we stopped by to buy some crispy roti. We ended up getting two boxes for the price of one because the seller told us that she was tired of selling due to the cold weather. She insisted that we take both boxes, saying that tomorrow would be even colder!

DAY 3: Phu Tok, Chiang Khan

Today, I must say that I am dressed very warmly. Not just my face, but also my clothes. Following the threat from the roti lady with a strong hand, who said that today would be the coldest day, I have put on three layers of clothes. If it gets colder than Phu Luang, I will probably have a stiff hand and body like the lady.

Phu Tok

We woke up at 4:30 am to shower and get dressed to go see the mist at Phu Tok. The kind uncle at the accommodation drove us to the pick-up point at Phu Tok, and then we took a ride up to Phu Tok (25 baht per person).

We climbed up to watch the sunrise before the sun had even risen, until the sun slowly rose to its full glory.

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Today, luck wasn't on our side. The images we saw of others checking in usually show this area of Phu Tok shrouded in thick fog, making the mountains almost invisible. However, this morning, the fog was thin and sparse, and the air wasn't as cold as we were warned. It was a stark contrast to yesterday's dense fog. As they say, nature is nature, and we can't control it. It's part of its charm. We'll have to wait for another opportunity to witness it again.

As we descended from the peak of Phu Thok, we were greeted by the enticing cries of "Fresh milk! No sugar added! Freshly squeezed!" The words "no sugar added" and "fresh" immediately caught our attention, and we couldn't resist turning to investigate. The prospect of a steaming cup of fresh milk was too tempting to pass up.

This fresh milk is boiled with pandan leaves and no sugar added, but it is surprisingly sweet. I am impressed by the ordinariness that feels extraordinary. If anyone comes down from Phu Tok, walk down and notice the right hand side. There will be a man standing selling milk on the right with a pot. Get a glass like this in the morning. It's great, I'm telling you.

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Our host kindly picked us up from the same spot where he dropped us off, making us feel like we were being welcomed home. This is just one of the many reasons why we highly recommend this accommodation. Despite having limited time for planning, both accommodations we booked for this trip were exceptional.

The uncle (father of the owner) and aunt were also enjoyable to talk to. I didn't take a picture of them.

The warm and inviting atmosphere of the accommodation is evident in its design. The owner's son, according to the aunt, was responsible for the design, and the uncle and aunt collaborated on its upkeep. The limited number of rooms ensures a high level of personal attention. This, in our opinion, contributes significantly to the welcoming atmosphere, making our stay here a memorable one.

Most people tend to choose accommodation by the river, which certainly offers a pleasant atmosphere. We stayed there several years ago. However, if you prefer privacy and don't need to be by the water, we believe this is another option we recommend. They provide bicycles to ride, and a kind uncle will drive you there (if available). Alternatively, you can easily walk to Chiang Khan Walking Street, as it's not far away.

Chiang Khan Town

This morning, we cycled around Chiang Khan, stopping at a coffee shop housed in a converted old cinema.

Suwanna Rama Coffee, Chiang Khan

Suwanna Rama Coffee was originally a cinema. The interior decoration of the shop is therefore full of movie posters, movie cameras, and various equipment from the cinema. The real cinema is still behind it. As far as I could see that day, the cinema part had already become a badminton court.

A staple dish when visiting the Mekong River, the "egg pan" is a must-try. While it can be made at home, the atmosphere and location create a completely different experience.

Breakfast showdown: eggs in a pan versus sandwiches and waffles, with a side of coffee.

After spending some time at the slow life cafe, we went for a bike ride on the Chiang Khan Walking Street and along the Mekong River.

We didn't have to cycle for long before it was time to eat again. The last meal of the trip had to be something special, and what better choice than papaya salad? We decided to try the "Tord Peek Gai" (Fried Chicken Wings) at the "Tum Luem Pua" restaurant. This dish was so delicious that we ended up ordering a second helping.

Wat Tha Kok: A 200-Year-Old Temple by the Mekong River

Nestled along the banks of the Mekong River, Wat Tha Kok is a serene and ancient temple boasting a history of nearly 200 years. As we entered the ubosot (ordination hall), the tranquility of the space enveloped us. While bowing before the principal Buddha image, one of our companions made a donation to a young novice statue. In response, the statue recited a lengthy chant, seemingly without end, filling us with a sense of profound blessing. This unexpected experience became a memorable highlight of our trip.

A hidden gem awaits outside the temple: miniature crispy roti sai mai. With its thin, delicate crust and subtle sweetness, this treat is a must-try for any visitor to Wat Tha Kok.

The Final Destination: A Serendipitous Encounter

The final leg of our journey involved a race against time to catch our evening flight back home. We inquired with our host, Uncle, who informed us of a nearby bus terminal with direct connections to the airport.

At the bus terminal, we boarded a Nakhonchai Air bus bound for the airport. The journey was a comfortable one, allowing us to catch some much-needed sleep. Upon waking, we found ourselves back at the same bus terminal where we had first met Uncle on our arrival day.

To our surprise, we spotted Uncle once again. He was cheerfully greeting friends and tourists alike, inquiring about their destinations, just as he had done with us earlier.

Seeing Uncle brought back a flood of memories from our first day in Loei. The majestic peaks of Phu Bo Bit, the pristine streams and elephant dung at Phu Luang, the breathtaking views from Huai Krathing, the bone-chilling cold of Phu Sa Phao, the charm of Phu Luang and Chiang Khan, the delicious grilled river prawns, and the tart wild tamarind – all these experiences made us realize that we had truly made the most of our three-day holiday in Loei.

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Thank you to my fellow travelers for joining me on this impromptu trip. It was a wonderful three-day journey, exploring the beautiful city of mountains and sea in the coldest part of Siam. We return home with many happy memories. Until we meet again, farewell!

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