Ali Shan: A Journey Through Taiwan's Mountainous Beauty

Nestled amidst the breathtaking mountains of Taiwan, Ali Shan holds a special place in the hearts of many travelers. Its allure extends beyond its scenic beauty, captivating visitors with its rich history and cultural significance.

For those seeking an unforgettable adventure, the iconic mountain railway offers a unique experience. Departing from Chiayi Station, the train embarks on a scenic journey through lush forests and towering peaks. This historic route, once extending all the way to Ali Shan, now terminates at Fenchihu due to past storm damage. Despite this, the remaining section remains a testament to engineering ingenuity and provides breathtaking views.

The allure of Ali Shan extends beyond its natural beauty. The charming town of Fenchihu, with its iconic railway bento boxes, offers a glimpse into Taiwan's rich culinary heritage. While time constraints may have prevented a visit during your previous trip, the opportunity to savor these delectable treats remains a compelling reason to return.

For those seeking a more immersive experience, a bus journey from Fenchihu leads to the heart of Ali Shan National Park. Here, visitors can immerse themselves in the park's diverse ecosystems, from towering trees to vibrant wildflowers. The park also offers opportunities for hiking, camping, and wildlife observation, making it a haven for nature enthusiasts.

However, it is important to note that the journey to Ali Shan is not without its challenges. The mountain railway, while offering stunning views, is known for its steep inclines and potential for landslides. Visitors should be aware of these risks and take appropriate precautions.

In conclusion, Ali Shan offers a unique blend of natural beauty, cultural heritage, and adventure. Whether you choose to ride the iconic mountain railway, explore the charming town of Fenchihu, or delve into the depths of Ali Shan National Park, this captivating destination promises an unforgettable experience.

For our journey, we took the TRA train from Taipei to Chiayi Railway Station. This was a slight change from our original plan, which was to take the PUYUMA express train, which would have had the shortest travel time (among regular trains). For the return trip, we took the HSR high-speed train. We booked the HSR train directly through the HSR website, which allows bookings up to 1 month in advance. However, after booking the HSR, we were unable to book the TRA train no matter how far in advance we tried. (Bookings can be made at https://www.railway.gov.tw/en/index.aspx). We later remembered that TRA allows bookings approximately 14 days in advance. Due to being busy and not being in a hurry (and forgetting that this wasn't our home country's train system), we missed the opportunity to book the PUYUMA express train. This delayed our planned schedule by another hour, as the express train we were able to book was the Tze-chiang limited express, which is the second-fastest express train after the PUYUMA (comparable to a special express train in our home country). It takes more than an hour longer to travel.

You might ask why we didn't take the HSR for the outbound trip. There were several reasons. Firstly, there are far fewer bus routes to Alishan from the high-speed rail station. If we were to take the bus from Chiayi TRA station, we would have to take the BRT as well. We felt that traveling to Alishan already involved multiple transfers, and we didn't want to transfer any more. Secondly, we wanted to experience different forms of transportation in Taiwan. During this trip to Taiwan, we managed to try almost every form of public transportation available. Thirdly, we felt that if we arrived at Alishan too early, we wouldn't have anything to do after exploring the area, and we would just be waiting around. We also wouldn't have to wake up early in the morning to leave our hotel in Taipei, so we weren't in a hurry. Taking the TRA, which was slower, also saved us money. In retrospect, we think we made a mistake with this last point.

This is a long story, but feel free to read through it and see for yourself.

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Interior of the Tze-chiang limited express train

The train journey from Taipei to Chiayi was a nail-biting experience. We boarded the Tze-chiang limited express at 8:28 am and arrived in Chiayi at 11:55 am, leaving us with a tight window to catch the bus to Alishan. Thankfully, the train arrived on time. However, our anxiety escalated as we exited the station. We had read online that the bus stop was located in front of the station, but construction work had blocked the area, forcing us to take a detour through a brick-paved plaza. Reaching the road, we were unsure which way to go. Fortunately, we guessed correctly and turned right. Comparing the actual scene to the online review photos proved futile; everything looked different.

Time was running out, and we struggled to drag our luggage through the construction zone. The lack of sidewalks and the presence of traffic cones made it a precarious journey. We had brought our large suitcases because we were flying out the next day and didn't want to return to Taipei. Additionally, we planned to take the HSR back, so leaving our luggage at TRA Chiayi wasn't an option. We vaguely remembered reading that buses departed every hour, but we had overlooked the fact that there was no 1 pm bus. Missing the 12:05 pm bus would mean waiting until 2:05 pm, arriving in Alishan late in the afternoon and losing precious sightseeing time.

Turning a corner, we finally spotted the bus stop near the taxi stand and the construction zone. Initially, we assumed this was the correct stop, but we couldn't find a ticket booth. Confused, we continued walking, wondering if we should keep going. Just then, a taxi driver approached us in Chinese, asking our destination. We replied "Alishan," and he led us back to the original bus stop in front of the train station. He pointed to a bus with a typical Taiwanese tour bus design, and it seemed to be arriving just then. He gestured towards it, indicating that it was the Alishan bus. We couldn't recall the specific route number, but we remembered it was a four-digit number and the bus was green.

To our surprise, we learned that the Alishan bus didn't require purchasing a ticket; we could use our EasyCard. However, unaware of this, we had only a small amount of money left on the card as we planned to use it for our flight the next day. We ended up paying 234 NT in cash (price as of May 2018). Remember, if you plan to pay cash, ensure you have the exact amount. The driver will provide a receipt or invoice as proof of payment, which you should keep until you disembark. For EasyCard users, the driver will simply check your card tap when you board and exit the bus (as mentioned in the Jiufen section, long-distance buses require tapping the card both when boarding and exiting, and these buses have four-digit route numbers).

For those who want to check bus schedules, you can visit: https://www.travelking.com.tw/eng/tourguide/alishan/transportation.asp

The initial ascent offers scenic views of extensive banana and betel nut plantations.


Translation:

Is there anything else I can help you with?

As the bus ascends, tea plantations line the roadside. Visitors on certain tours may stop at a tea-growing village.

Unsure of the flower's name. Initially thought it was a Japanese nanohana, but after reviewing the photos, it seems unlikely. Nonetheless, it's quite beautiful.

After a two-hour bus ride, we stopped at a convenience store, which appeared to be a Hi-Life. The store had restrooms available, and the bus would be parked for about 10-15 minutes. Initially, I hesitated to get off the bus, but seeing several passengers disembarking and the bus remaining stationary, I decided to follow suit. I asked the driver before getting off, and although he didn't speak English, we understood each other. He pointed to the numbers on his wristwatch, indicating the time we needed to return. The view from where the bus was parked was quite scenic, with terraced tea plantations on the hillside. Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures because I was waiting in line for the restroom. On our return, we were running late and worried that the bus wouldn't wait for us, which would have been a major inconvenience.

Upon arrival, the bus will stop here.

Upon exiting the bus, walk alongside the 7-Eleven store to locate the park entrance.

After driving for another half an hour, the bus arrived at the Alishan parking lot, which is located in front of a 7-Eleven convenience store. **Before disembarking, the driver will distribute small yellow slips of paper to be presented to the park staff.** **Upon exiting the bus, walk to the road next to the 7-Eleven on the right-hand side.** You will see the park entrance. Walk straight to the entrance and present the yellow slip to the staff. This will grant you a 50% discount on the park entrance fee. The park offers a reduced entrance fee for **tourists who arrive independently by public transportation, from the full price of 300 NT to 150 NT.** **However, if you take a chartered van, you will have to pay the full price.** (I forgot to mention that at the Chiayi Railway Station, an elderly lady saw us dragging our luggage and asked, "Alishan?" But I had read that she would try to persuade us to take her car, so my friend and I shook our heads and continued walking. Then she disappeared, only to reappear after the taxi driver dropped us off at the bus stop. She looked displeased and grumbled something that could be interpreted as, "Didn't you say you weren't going to Alishan?" 55)

After passing through the park entrance, we walked in and dragged our luggage. We saw a hotel that seemed to be located below on the left-hand side, but it looked very deep down. As we walked straight ahead, we saw the Alishan Railway Station. We turned left and came to a road. It is recommended that friends who have booked a hotel drag their luggage down the road on the left, which is much more convenient. When we dragged it down, we encountered another fork in the road and turned right to find a row of hotels. However, we had read a review that said the hotel we were staying at was close to the stairs leading down from the Visitor Center, and then turning right would lead us there. So we walked the other way on the road to go to the Visitor Center. As we walked that way, we came across a large parking lot. At that time, we were confused about which way to go. We didn't know where the stairs were. A van driver was sitting in his car and asked us where we were going. We told him the name of the hotel and showed him our booking confirmation. He pointed to the back, where there was a phone shop. (Even though we spoke different languages, we were able to communicate with each other. We were really impressed by the kindness of the Taiwanese people. We met many people who helped us without us even asking.) When we walked towards the phone shop, there was a staircase leading down, which was narrow and steep and not suitable for carrying luggage down.

The wooden building you see in the distance is Alishan Railway Station. At first, we dragged our luggage along the sidewalk and saw many buses, thinking it was a parking lot. We didn't dare drag our luggage through it, so we dragged it to the left as shown in the picture below. You can also drag it along the sidewalk as shown in the picture below, but when you reach the road, turn left and follow the road to the hotel. However, if your luggage is not big or heavy, turn right and go to the visitor center. Then go down the stairs next to it, which will be much closer.


The Visitor Center is located next to a building with a telephone symbol. A staircase leads down to the hotel zone from the parking lot.

Upon arrival at the hotel and check-in, there was barely any time to rest as there were only two remaining train departures from Alishan Station to Zhaoping Station: 3:00 PM and 3:30 PM. Due to the tight schedule, we opted for the 3:30 PM train. The fare for this route is 100 NT. For those planning to watch the sunrise the next morning, remember to purchase tickets to Chushan Station in advance, as they are not available for purchase on the day of travel. One-way tickets for adults cost 150 NT, while round-trip tickets cost 300 NT. We only purchased one-way tickets, intending to walk back if possible, to enjoy the scenery and take beautiful photos as recommended in reviews.


Continuing our journey by train from Alishan Station to Zhaoping Station, this section is relatively short, taking only 6-7 minutes by train.

The atmosphere inside the Alishan-Zhaoping train (don't be confused by the different spellings, we found both pin-in versions, but we'll stick with the Z version for now).


Upon arriving at Zhaoping Railway Station, we desperately searched for a restaurant as we hadn't eaten lunch yet. Worried about missing the last train, we decided to take our chances. However, only two shops were open: a souvenir shop and another selling a few snacks. Neither offered anything particularly appealing to us. We ended up buying some wasabi peas, which were tasty but not ideal for our empty stomachs. Leaving the station, we started walking along the road towards the pine forest. As soon as we stepped outside, a light drizzle began to fall.

In this photo, we are facing away from the camera, and in the distance, you can see Zhaoping Station. Please follow my friends and walk this way.

Hydrangea macrophylla 'Endless Summer'

The trail enters the forest, where mats are used to protect the pine trees.

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From Zhaoping Station, you will first encounter Younger Sister Pond, followed by Sister Pond.

Younger Sister Pond We arrived here and it started raining heavily, so the picture is not very clear.



The pine forest is truly magnificent.


We arrived at Sister Pond. The rain was heavier than before, but many people were already taking shelter from the rain, so we decided to brave the rain and continue on our way, hoping that the rain would ease up a bit. It was as if the sky was playing a trick on us, making it seem as if the rain would ease up, but it kept coming and going.

We continued walking from Sister Pond, and soon we came to a large open space. On the left was Shouzhen Temple, a large temple in the middle of the forest, but it was raining heavily at that time and we didn't want to brave the rain, so we turned right instead. There were several shops here, but it was raining and getting late, so some of the shops were closed. The shops that were open were mostly food stalls, as there were many people taking shelter from the rain. My sister and I went to the back of the line to buy some scallion bread (I don't know what else to call it). When it was our turn, there was only one piece left, so we shared it between the two of us. It was enough to keep our hunger at bay for a while. It felt good to eat something warm after walking in the rain.

Near the temple, there is a pick-up point for sightseeing buses. These buses resemble the No. 108 sightseeing buses at Yangmingshan National Park, with a green stripe on the side. Initially, we thought they were tour buses, but after checking the park brochure, we realized they were sightseeing buses that stop at various points. However, the information was in Chinese, and we couldn't find any reviews about the sightseeing buses, so we didn't use them.

The food stalls are located at the corner of the path leading down to the Sacred Tree train station. The path is shrouded in dense forest, and rain is still falling. No one seems to be walking down it, making us hesitant at first. However, we have no choice but to go down, as we don't know how else to return (we still believe the tour bus belongs to the tour group). After waiting for a while, a tour group descends, so we follow them. At the bottom of the path, there is a fork in the road. You can choose either path, as both lead to the Sacred Tree station.

#alishan national forest#train#mountain#taiwan#hiking#public transportation
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