Springtime in Russia: My Remarkable Journey – Day 7: Visiting the World Heritage Monastery in Sergiev Posad

After spending several days in the bustling metropolises, we decided to venture outside the city and experience a different atmosphere. Our destination was Sergiev Posad (Сергиев Посад), home to the Trinity Lavra of St. Sergius (Тро́ице-Се́ргиева Ла́вра), a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This renowned monastery is a popular day trip from Moscow due to its proximity and convenient transportation, with trains departing every 30 minutes. Following the recommendations of seasoned travelers, we embarked on this excursion, eager to explore this highly acclaimed landmark.

We departed from our home by taking the metro line 5 from Belorusskaya station (Белору́сская) to Komsomolskaya station (Комсомо́льская). Our destination was Yaroslavsky railway station (Ярославский вокзал), a major hub for trains departing Moscow towards the northeast and north.

Belorusskaya Station (Белору́сская)

The atmosphere inside the subway

Inside Komsomolskaya Station (Комсомо́льская)

Let's go to the top.

Let's walk to Yaroslavsky Railway Station (Ярославский вокзал).

The station is easily identifiable by its green roof and numerous ticket counters. Upon arrival, simply approach any counter and present your destination, either verbally or in written Russian. The staff will then provide the fare, which you can pay for. We opted for a one-way ticket, but round-trip options are also available.

Please choose a counter to purchase your ticket.

After we paid, they issued us a ticket that looked like a small receipt, which was easy to lose. The ticket was entirely in Russian and had a barcode for scanning to enter the platform. Now, which platform should we go to? No problem, just scan the barcode to enter the platform.

The bottom part of the ticket is used to scan for access to the platform.

After that, I presented my ticket to the officer inside and asked which train I should take. The officer was kind and responded immediately, but I couldn't understand a word. They spoke in Russian and pointed their finger, seemingly realizing I didn't comprehend. They then gestured with their hands, indicating platform 8. If I interpreted their hand gesture correctly, that was the platform I needed.

We looked at each other, realizing it was platform 8. So we half-walked, half-ran to platform 8, unsure how many minutes it would be before the train departed and whether it was the one the officer had mentioned. We showed our tickets to a young man standing in the carriage, and he nodded, confirming it was the right train. We were relieved, knowing we were on the right train.

The interior of the third-class train carriage is similar to our home.

The station we need to get off at is an intermediate stop. We can take any of the suburban or third-class trains that pass through this station, depending on which one departs first. The reason they told us to take this particular train is simply because it leaves the fastest. Therefore, our task from now on is to listen carefully for the station we need to get off at, as it is not the final destination. However, the obstacles don't end there. Once we get on the train, we realize that there are no seats available. We have to walk through each carriage while the train starts moving, and in the end, we have to squeeze in with other people because almost every carriage is full.

Some chairs require three people to sit close together.

After sitting down and the train starting its journey for about 10 minutes, or leaving the city limits, the scenery began to change. The houses along the way were no longer buildings, but started to become individual houses with large, open fields becoming more visible. However, while I was enjoying the rural scenery that was gradually increasing, the atmosphere of the third-class train was suddenly disrupted by the voices of people standing at the door between the carriages selling various goods. These people were not railway staff selling food and drinks, but villagers who brought all sorts of goods to sell on the train. Not just food like sticky rice with pork, grilled chicken, mangoes, and boiled peanuts like we have at home, but everything you can imagine. From clothes, scarves, electrical plugs, patches for leaky pots, children's clothes, gardening equipment, electronic devices, home decorations, scouring pads, computer bags, etc. Some were simply shouting their sales pitch, while others demonstrated how to use the product clearly, speaking loudly and clearly in Russian. Some even wore microphones to be heard throughout the train.

The point of sale is at the front door. I didn't dare to take a picture while they were offering to sell, for fear that they would say that I was taking it.

Watching the scenery go by was enjoyable and kept me from getting sleepy. After a while, a staff member came around to check tickets by scanning the barcode. If you don't have a ticket, you can pay directly on the train by telling them your destination. This suggests that you might not actually need to buy a ticket in advance and could just pay on board. However, it's better to be safe than sorry. Therefore, remember to keep your ticket for the train staff to check. Otherwise, you might have to buy a new ticket.

Sergiev Posad: A Historic Center of Russian Orthodoxy

Sergiev Posad, located approximately 70 kilometers northwest of Moscow, translates to "Sergius' Settlement," aptly reflecting its origins. The city's development is deeply intertwined with the dedication and perseverance of Saint Sergius.

This ancient city boasts the largest and oldest religious complex in Russia, dating back to the 14th-17th centuries. It served as a sacred pilgrimage site and a renowned center for religious arts, including singing, icon painting, and monastic studies. During its peak, the monastery housed 400 clergymen and 100 students.

Between 1930 and 1991, under Soviet rule, the city was renamed Zagorsk. However, its historical significance and spiritual legacy remain deeply embedded in its identity.

The origins of the monastery date back to 1354, when Saint Sergius of Radonezh, on a pilgrimage, chose this peaceful location. Through his asceticism, Saint Sergius achieved the ability to heal the sick through meditation. Moreover, soldiers who sought his blessing before battle were victorious, leading to widespread devotion.

After checking the time on my wristwatch, I estimated that it was around 1.30 hours. Therefore, it should be approaching soon. Based on the number of stations I had passed, it seemed like the next station. However, there were quite a lot of people getting off at this station, and there were also many tourists, so I assumed that they might have the same destination. Therefore, when the train stopped at the platform, we all got off at this target station.

We arrived at Sergiev Posad station and got off the train.

From the station, we used a map to navigate to the Trinity Lavra of St. Sergius, which was not difficult. We walked straight out and turned right at the intersection.

Turn right from the road in front of the station, and you will be on this road. Just walk straight ahead.

Continue walking straight ahead. You will see a large shopping mall on your left and a bus stop on your right. This indicates that you are on the correct path. Continue walking, and you will pass houses and residences.

Continue straight, passing the shopping mall on your left and the bus stop on your right.

In a moment, you will see the Trinity Lavra of St. Sergius monastery complex on your left. We will descend the hill to reach it.

Our goal is within sight.

As you descend the slope, you will encounter a souvenir market lining the covered walkway leading to the cathedral. A wide variety of items are available for purchase. While you are welcome to browse and make purchases, it is recommended that you do so on your return journey to avoid carrying your purchases while exploring the cathedral.

A wide variety of beautiful embroidered pictures are available for sale.

Souvenir market, path to the cathedral

After passing this point, you will reach the large open space at the top, which is the courtyard in front of the cathedral before the visit. This is the parking area for tourists and tour buses, and there were quite a few visitors today.

Before entering, everyone must purchase a ticket. Tickets are sold at the Tourist Information booth or at the "I" sign itself. Walk inside to the counter. After paying, you will receive a receipt. Take the receipt to exchange for an admission ticket at another counter nearby (why make it so complicated?). In addition to selling tickets, this area also has restaurants, beverage shops, and souvenir shops. The restrooms inside this building require a fee. If you need to use the restroom, it's better to use the public restroom building outside, which is free of charge. However, they do accept donations at your discretion.

Please purchase your ticket at this building.

I have the tickets now.

The Trinity Lavra of St. Sergius is a prominent monastery of the Russian Orthodox Church. It is named after Saint Sergius, a revered figure believed to possess miraculous healing powers. The monastery's reputation for sanctity has made it a central pilgrimage site for Russians, including monarchs who regularly participated in religious ceremonies there. For Orthodox Christians in Russia, the Trinity Lavra holds a significance comparable to the Vatican. Beyond its religious importance, the monastery also played a historical role. It served as a fortified refuge for soldiers during the Polish-Lithuanian invasion of 1608-1610 and provided sanctuary to the young Peter the Great, who later became a prominent Russian leader.

Upon presenting our tickets, we entered through the grand Holy Gate, where officials checked our credentials. The adjacent Dormition Gate remained closed, reserved exclusively for authorized vehicles. Stepping inside, we were immediately captivated by the vibrant murals adorning the courtyard, their immaculate beauty leaving us awestruck.

The first point of interest is the St. John the Baptist Church. The most striking feature of this monastery is the Cathedral of the Assumption. The white-colored church with its blue onion-shaped dome adorned with small white stars is a sight to behold. It is hard to believe that this church was built in 1559 by Ivan the Terrible to celebrate the victory over the Mongols in the Russo-Mongol War. The construction took 26 years to complete.

Church of St. John the Baptist

Cathedral of the Assumption

Drinks and snacks are also available for purchase.

The Cathedral of the Assumption is adorned with numerous paintings of saints, unfamiliar to the young mouse. The interior is hushed and dimly lit, illuminated solely by flickering candles scattered throughout. The absence of other light sources amplifies the mystical, sacred, and serene atmosphere.

The vast square in the center is Sobornaya Ploschad, which houses numerous structures in addition to the Cathedral of the Assumption. In front of the Cathedral of the Assumption stands the Chapel over the Well, where believers and tourists alike gather to collect holy water. We were the only ones who arrived empty-handed. During the winter, when the well water freezes, visitors can collect water from the Nadkladeznaya Chapel, a rose-colored building adjacent to the Cathedral of the Assumption.

Cathedral Square

Chapel over the Well and Sacristy, the yellow buildings seen here.

Nadkladeznaya Chapel

The interior of the Nadkladeznaya Chapel, which can also be used to collect water.

For those who did not bring a water bottle, you can purchase one at the Bell Tower, the tall blue building. They offer bottles in various sizes, so you can buy as many as you can carry. Upon entering, you will find a souvenir shop with a wide range of items. Most of the items are reasonably priced compared to those seen in shops around town. Notably, for those who appreciate trinkets like cross-shaped pendants and rings, the craftsmanship is exquisite and the designs are truly beautiful.

Bell Tower

We then walked to the yellow building on the right, the Sacristy, which is a museum showcasing the monastery's valuables. It displays a vast collection of precious items. Next, we proceeded to the Trinity Cathedral, a nearby ivory-colored building with a golden dome. This is the most significant church within the monastery. The Trinity Cathedral is almost 600 years old and was built on the site of Saint Sergius's tomb. We observed a long queue of people entering the cathedral. They were waiting to pay their respects to the remains of Saint Sergius. It is said that on some days, the line extends beyond the church's doors. Inside, only the sound of prayers and the flickering of candles could be heard. Visiting this church requires utmost respect and photography is strictly prohibited.

The most important church, Trinity Cathedral, is on the right with its golden dome.

The next building we will visit is the Church of St. Sergius and Refectory, a hall used for religious ceremonies. The exterior walls of the building feature a white and red checkered pattern.

Church of St. Sergius and Refectory

The interior of the hall is adorned with paintings and stuccowork. The window frames are decorated with ornate moldings in various shapes. The ceiling features beautiful religious paintings. This building is the most recently constructed of all the structures. In general, in Orthodox churches, only the entrance hall, where we are currently standing, is accessible to the public. The area behind it, known as the Sanctuary, is not accessible even though the door appears to be open. This is because it is considered a sacred space reserved exclusively for clergy members.

Sanctuary

We spent a good part of the day at this important monastery. The weather was pleasant, with the sun not too hot and a light drizzle throughout the day. While the drizzle made photography a bit challenging, it also created a unique atmosphere and we were able to capture many beautiful memories.

After that, they walked back to the station. On the way back, they stopped by a shopping mall along the way to look at the goods and explore the market. They ended up buying some souvenirs, each taking a little something for themselves.

Cute shops near the station

The next train to Moscow will arrive in a few minutes.

Railway station area

Upon arrival at the station, approach the ticket counter and simply say "Moskva." The ticket seller will understand your destination, as locals do not use the term "Moscow" as we do. After purchasing your ticket, check the platform where the next train to Moskva will arrive and wait there.

Please note that the tickets this time are in QR Code format.

Which will come first, the train or the rain?

This time, we didn't have to worry about counting stations or how many more stops we had to go. We were riding all the way to the end of the line. Luckily, just as the rain started to drizzle again, the train pulled up to the platform. This time, there were plenty of seats available, so we could choose wherever we wanted to sit. We all spread out and enjoyed the view. On the way back, however, no one came up to sell us anything, which was a shame. We really enjoyed the atmosphere. It was a lot of fun.

After a pleasant hour and a half ride, the train arrived at the platform of Yaroslavsky railway station on schedule. Before leaving the station, it is necessary to scan the purchased ticket to exit. This is because there is no scanner at the entrance when boarding the train at Sergiev Posad. Therefore, it is important to keep the ticket until reaching Moscow to avoid any difficulties exiting the station.

We have reached our final destination.

Remember to scan your ticket before exiting.

After exiting the station, we had no further plans, so we headed to Komsomolskaya station to take the metro to Mayakovskaya station (Маяковская) to return to our accommodation on Tverskaya Street.

Mayakovskaya Station (Маяковская)

This is the exit we always use at Mayakovskaya Station.

The familiar statue I pass by every day

After a long day of travel and sightseeing, we decided to return to our accommodation to prepare a meal and rest. We agreed to save our energy for a visit to the Kremlin Palace tomorrow.

Get ready to join us on a tour of the Kremlin Palace in the next episode.

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