Rain in the Ruins and the Field of Forgetfulness

Journey to the Rice Terraces of Pa Bong Piang

Driven by the itch of countless reviews and a burning desire to witness the rice terraces with my own eyes, I embarked on a journey to Pa Bong Piang, a village nestled in the mountains of Mae Chaem district, Chiang Mai. The distance and challenging terrain had deterred many, especially those like me, hailing from the distant city of Yasothon. But when the heart calls, who can resist? I swiftly booked flights and accommodation, dragging my reluctant partner along for the adventure.

My trip on July 8th, 2018, coincided with the monsoon season and the rice planting period in Pa Bong Piang. Frequent calls to the guesthouse confirmed that the rice seedlings were still young, meaning the scenery might not live up to expectations. Nevertheless, I was determined to experience this breathtaking landscape at least once in my lifetime.

The guesthouse owner suggested two routes for reaching Pa Bong Piang:

Path 1

To reach the Mae Pan Waterfall, drive up Doi Inthanon and pass through the second checkpoint. Turn left and follow the signs for Mae Chaem district. After 6 kilometers, you will reach a fork in the road leading to the Mae Pan Waterfall Ranger Station. Turn right and drive until you reach the parking area. Call your accommodation to arrange a pick-up, as only 4WD vehicles can navigate the remaining 2 kilometers of rough terrain. The cost for the pick-up service is approximately 700 baht.

Path 2

Drive up Doi Inthanon, passing checkpoint 2, then turn left and follow the blue route through Mae Chaem district and Ban Tung Yao.

After driving for approximately 8 kilometers past Baan Tung Yao, we reached Baan Pa Bong Piang. The detour from Route 1 added about 33 kilometers to our journey.

If you were faced with this choice, which route would you take? This time, I will review the second option, which involves a longer drive of about an hour but offers stunning views along the way. (Be prepared for some winding roads; bring candy, inhalants, and balm for motion sickness.)

Our flight landed at 6:30 AM, and we picked up our rental car at 7:00 AM. I had booked a 1.6-liter engine car, but the rental company kindly upgraded us to a 2.0-liter engine. We immediately headed up Doi Inthanon and stopped to stock up on supplies for the road trip. The journey is just as important as the destination, and there are many beautiful places to stop and take pictures along the way. I wish I had stopped more often, but I was eager to reach Baan Pa Bong Piang.

Vachirathan Waterfall is as beautiful and refreshing as its name suggests. The pictures speak for themselves. I got soaked, but it was worth it.

Let's take a picture along the way. Breathe in the fresh air and fill your lungs.

Paying respects at the Nophaphonphumisiri Maha Chedi, it seems like I won't be able to see the way anymore. Both the wind and the fog are cold and refreshing.

After paying respects at the Maha Chedi, I drove back down a bit to the second checkpoint and turned right to Mae Chaem district. I drove leisurely, enjoying the view on both sides of the road, until I reached Ban Tung Yao. I turned right and went in. If you look closely, there is a sign pointing the way to Ban Pa Bong Piang at the entrance of Ban Tung Yao (I apologize to my friends for not having a picture, credit for the picture from google map).

Now, let's talk about the route from Ban Tung Yao to Ban Pa Bong Piang. I stopped to ask for directions and met a group of big bike riders at the entrance of Ban Tung Yao. They told me to turn left and keep going, but they also warned me that a sedan wouldn't be able to make it all the way and that I would have to park and take a ride in. I felt a little encouraged, though, because there were only 8 kilometers left. I thought to myself, "Why wouldn't I be able to make it?" So I decided to give it a try. After driving for a while, I stopped to ask some locals for directions. I was able to ask for directions all along the way because everyone there knows Ban Pa Bong Piang well. Once I was on the road, I couldn't find any signs, so I just kept driving. As I went further, I started to doubt myself because the road was surrounded by more and more forest. I decided to call the person who was taking care of my accommodation. Luckily, he was at the market nearby. I just followed him after that.

The road conditions were varied, with some rough patches, good sections, and areas with standing water. There were also hills and slopes, but the road was passable. It's important to note that sedans can navigate this route, but caution and a slow pace are necessary. After an exciting journey, I arrived at my destination. I'd like to express my gratitude to the big bike team members who helped me navigate the route by checking the road conditions ahead of time. I apologize for not remembering their names. True friendship can be found anywhere. I parked my car at the church, about 100 meters from the accommodation, and the staff picked me up due to the muddy road caused by the rain. During normal conditions, guests can drive directly to the accommodation.

And then I saw it with my own eyes... the view from the room is amazing! It's raining and the atmosphere is perfect. The view in front of the house is Doi Inthanon.

This small building is my house. The bathroom and toilet are separate.

Large room for 4-6 people

Twin house suitable for large groups

My accommodation is called "Rabeang Na Baan Pa Bong Piang", a small homestay with 3 houses. There's a small house for 2-3 people, a large house for 4-6 people, and a twin house. The price is 500 baht per person per night. It's affordable, but the view is amazing. If you want to sleep in a tent, they have a space for that too, but you'll need to discuss it with them. They provide 2 meals: dinner and breakfast. There's no electricity, but they have solar batteries that provide enough light to charge your phone. There's also phone signal. Most importantly, the staff are friendly and helpful. Their name is Sombut. You can find more information online.

Get to work once you're settled in.

Gazing at the distant drizzle.

If you visit in July, you will see the locals planting rice. If you want to experience the beautiful green rice fields, you should come between September and October.

Soak up the atmosphere to the fullest, enjoying yourself until dinner time (which will arrive very quickly).

The food was delicious, or maybe I was just hungry. Haha. I ate while enjoying the scenery. My eyes, heart, and stomach were all satisfied. I won't have this kind of experience again when I go home.

Full and ready to sleep, only a small light remains amidst the vast and lonely darkness. Trying to sleep but waking up occasionally due to the rain all night. The air is cool and comfortable.

Waking up to the morning mist right in front of the house.

Enjoy the morning mist and nature, sipping a hot drink in a relaxed atmosphere. It's incredibly satisfying.

Breakfast arrived shortly after, and we sat in a circle, enjoying a meal with our loved ones. It was a dream breakfast.

After breakfast, it was 9:00 AM, and it was time to say goodbye. After enjoying nature's bounty, it was time to head back. It takes 3-4 hours to drive to Chiang Mai city, so we packed our bags with memories and stories.

One last photo before leaving. Thank you to Nong Samat for taking care of us throughout the trip. He was very kind and always checked on the well-being of the customers, both on the way there and back.

Here are some views from my neighbor's house. On my way back, I chose to pass through Hod-Jom Thong district. I wanted to see different views, and it was beautiful in a different way.

How was my first review? I hope it was helpful to some of you. Please forgive me for any mistakes.

I want my friends to experience this. I don't know how others travel, but **I travel across regions**.

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