Turkey: A Land of Diverse Landscapes and Rich History

Turkey, a nation straddling two continents, offers a captivating blend of diverse landscapes and rich history. From the sparkling shores of the Mediterranean to the towering peaks of the Taurus Mountains, Turkey's natural beauty is unparalleled. Its historical tapestry, woven from the threads of ancient Greek and Roman civilizations, the Ottoman Empire, and modern Turkey, is equally impressive. With its abundance of architectural marvels, from the Hagia Sophia to the Topkapi Palace, Turkey promises an unforgettable experience for any traveler seeking a unique blend of cultural immersion and natural wonder.

In early December 2016, a friend sent me an offer for an "Unseen Turkey" tour for only 29,900 baht. The tour was scheduled for December 28, 2016, to January 4, 2017. I didn't hesitate for long. I was very interested, especially since it coincided with the New Year's holiday (without affecting my main job) and did not require a visa, similar to Japan and Taiwan. Although I had some questions about safety, I figured that the tour group wouldn't take us to any risky areas, right?

Let's get started after this long introduction. : )

Day 1 (December 28, 2016)

The company will meet you at Suvarnabhumi Airport around 8:00 PM. As usual, the tour guide will hold a sign with the company's name (censored). During this time, you can grab something to eat and exchange currency. It is recommended to exchange for EUR or USD, as the TRY (Turkish Lira) exchange rate is high and exchange booths rarely stock this currency. Additionally, most shops and duty-free stores accept USD/EUR, with varying exchange rates. It is advisable to check the rates before making a transaction.

The airline that took us to Turkey was 'Mahan Air' (http://www.mahan.aero/en), a major private airline in Iran. It is worth noting that there were a significant number of passengers, including both tourists and Iranian citizens visiting Thailand. Passengers were allowed to check in 20 kg of luggage and carry-on baggage as appropriate.

Flight W5-050 (Suvarnabhumi - Imam Khomeini Airport (IKA))

The flight duration is approximately 6 hours. The aircraft used is an Airbus A340-600. The Economy class seating configuration is 2-4-2 and 2-3-2 (263 seats) + Business (45 seats). Overall, the seats are comfortable and have a 42-inch screen displaying flight information. However, the individual seat screens are not functional. In-flight entertainment requires passengers to connect to the Wi-Fi system, which offers a limited selection of movies, cartoons, and books. Flight information is also accessible through the system.

Mahan Air is an Iranian airline, therefore all flight attendants dress modestly and cover their hair in accordance with religious principles. Similarly, the meals served during the flight (W5-050) consist only of chicken and meat. The first round of service includes the main course, followed by a snack approximately one hour before arrival in Tehran.

Upon arrival at Imam Khomeini Airport (IKA), passengers face a transit wait of approximately 3 hours. While Wi-Fi is available, it is limited to 1 hour (100 MB) and is slow. Additionally, access to most social media platforms is blocked. However, using Opera VPN allows users to bypass these restrictions. The airport itself is relatively small, offering only one coffee shop, one duty-free store, and one lounge.

Flight W5-115 (Imam Khomeini Airport (IKA) - Istanbul (IST))

The flight will be operated by an Airbus A340-300 aircraft. The in-flight experience will remain the same, with one meal service consisting of breakfast. The breakfast will include an omelet, croissant, fruit, cheese, and coffee or tea. The flight duration is approximately 2.30 hours. The seating arrangement will remain the same, providing an opportunity for a short nap before arriving at the destination in the morning.

Day 2 (December 29, 2016)

Istanbul Arrival: Rain, Cold, and Connectivity

Arriving in Istanbul to rain and single-digit temperatures was not ideal, but clearing customs was a breeze (a simple glance and a stamp). After collecting my luggage, I opted for a local SIM card. However, the only option was a monthly all-in-one package: 8GB of 3G/4G data, 2000 domestic minutes, and 1000 SMS messages for 130 Turkish Lira (approximately $14.60 USD). Considering MiFi rental prices were similar, the choice came down to personal preference.

The tour leader escorted us onto the designated tour bus (which we would use throughout the trip). It was a large vehicle with 40 seats. A local guide, who spoke English with a slightly unusual accent that was easy to understand, joined us on the bus. We then traveled from the airport to Galata Bridge for lunch.

The lunch menu consisted of soup, salad, and rice with grilled fish. I'm not sure what kind of fish it was, but it tasted similar to mackerel. A squeeze of lemon added a nice touch. The Galata Bridge is another beautiful viewpoint with many bars where you can relax. They sell beer and liquor, just like at home (according to the guide, they separate religion from lifestyle, so drinking alcohol is not considered wrong here).

The tour then takes you to Topkapi Palace, the Hagia Sophia (formerly a Christian Orthodox church, converted to an Ottoman mosque, and now a museum), and the Sultan Ahmet Mosque (Blue Mosque), the largest mosque in the country with six minarets. All three sites are located in the same area. However, due to the rainy, cold, and windy weather, the tour was not as enjoyable as it could have been. If you visit during good weather, you are guaranteed to have a wonderful experience.

The day concluded with a visit to three locations, culminating in the Basilica Cistern, a vast underground reservoir constructed during the Roman era and used until the Ottoman period. Now fully restored and open as a museum, it also boasts a café within its depths.

We have a little more time, so let's visit the Mısır Çarşısı, or Spice Market, in the heart of Istanbul. The market's exterior is currently undergoing renovations, but the shops inside are open as usual. This market is known for its abundance of spice, tea, and coffee shops, as well as Turkish Delight at reasonable prices (with the option to sample before you buy). If you're backpacking on your own, feel free to browse at your leisure; it will take some time.

Dinner was at a charcoal-grilled chicken restaurant, which was delicious. We also had freshly squeezed pomegranate juice (pomegranate and orange juice are available at all tourist spots). We stayed at the Retaj Hotel on the outskirts of Istanbul, which was luxurious. However, if you're backpacking, you probably wouldn't book a hotel this far away, right? The rooms were spacious and comfortable, with all the amenities you would expect from a five-star hotel.

(FYI: In Turkey, 5-star hotels are not solely defined by their price or luxury, but rather by the quality of their services and accommodations. Notably, most 5-star hotels offer amenities such as saunas, fitness centers, Turkish baths, massage services, and swimming pools.)

Day 3 (December 30, 2016)

The weather today is better than yesterday. It rained much less and it is still cold. The first place we visited was the Dolmabahçe Palace. All the exhibits are inside the palace, so we didn't have to brave the wind and rain. The palace is opulent and befitting its status, with its furniture, gold decorations, and various collections (photography is prohibited inside). At the exit, there is a popular spot for taking photos of the view. Then, we took a boat trip to see the two shores (Asia and Europe). As you know, Istanbul is located between Europe and Asia. The view is beautiful, but because of the rain, the fog was thick and the visibility was not very good. On the boat, coffee and tea were served.

In the afternoon, we had lunch at a Chinese restaurant run by a Turkish chef (a bit unusual, right?). Then, we embarked on a 6-hour journey from Istanbul to Ayvalik, covering a distance of 430 km. Snow began to appear along the way, and it continued throughout the trip. We stayed at the Haliç Park Hotel that night. The rooms were a bit dated, but the view was spectacular! It offered a panoramic view of the bay surrounding Ayvalik, even at night.

(Note: Ayvalik is a small port town with another scenic viewpoint, but this tour does not include a visit there.)

Day 4 (December 31, 2016)

Leaving the hotel at 8:00 AM, it was still dark (the sun rises late here due to the winter season). The weather was pleasant with no rain. After a two-hour journey, we arrived in the town of Selçuk. As expected with a tour group, there were mandatory stops at two shops: a leather goods store and a souvenir shop. The leather goods were exorbitantly priced, so we skipped that one. The souvenir shop, however, offered reasonable prices and we made some purchases there.

The next stop was Ephesus, a former top-five city in the Roman Empire. Situated on a hill with access to the sea (a prime location), the city's ruins are still being excavated (some areas remain closed to the public). The Library of Celsus, a popular photo spot, is magnificent and impressive. The visit took about two hours, and the weather was perfect: not too cold and sunny. Afterwards, we had a local-style buffet lunch. The dishes may not be to everyone's taste.

After finishing lunch, we continued our journey for another 3 hours (180 km) to the city of Pamukkale. We climbed to admire the view of the calcium mountains, which are terraced in layers. Even in winter, it is beautiful in a different way. There is a layer of snow, along with hot springs and foot baths amidst a temperature of around -3 degrees Celsius. We enjoyed the view of the city below. There are a few souvenir shops here, and the prices are negotiable (not expensive).

(FYI: Pamukkale has several resorts with hot springs at the bottom of the city. Backpackers are recommended to try staying there.)

This evening, I am staying at the Anemon Denizli Hotel, a business hotel in Denizli city. As I enjoy my dinner, Thailand is starting its New Year countdown (Turkey is four hours behind Thailand). The hotel is hosting a New Year's Eve party with unlimited drinks, beer, food, singers, and performances for 110 liras (approximately 1,300 baht). However, I have decided to have a small celebration in my room instead.

To be continued in the next POST.

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