Solo Trip to Nan (Part 1/2)

Greetings. This article marks the beginning of my writing journey. Over the past three decades since I was born, I have had the opportunity to travel to numerous destinations, both domestically and internationally. However, I have yet to write any reviews of my travels. This trip, I am determined to start writing to preserve my memories beyond photographs and to provide information to those who are interested, echoing the words of Christopher McCandless: "Happiness only real when shared."

This journey of mine began on September 5th and lasted for almost three weeks, starting in Nan Province, continuing to Phayao Province, and ending in Chiang Rai Province. To avoid an excessively long review, I will divide it into separate parts.

Let's begin.

The piercing sound of my phone's alarm jolted me awake. I stretched languidly and rose from the long bench where I had spent the night. As a notorious late riser, I feared missing my 7:40 a.m. flight from Don Mueang Airport. So, I opted for the unconventional choice of sleeping at the airport itself.

The journey to Nan Airport took approximately one hour and a half. As I had not booked a car in advance, I had to call a motorbike taxi to find a rental shop. I should mention that I planned to travel by motorbike for this trip. In the end, I found a shop called "Tono" near the bus station, which rented motorbikes for 250 baht per day with a 1,000 baht deposit.

After acquiring the desired vehicle, it was time to embark on a journey from Mueang District. I traversed along Route 1081, passing through Santisuk District, en route to my first destination: Bo Kluea District. This route, aptly named the "Sky Road," spans approximately 90 kilometers from Nan to Bo Kluea, requiring a travel time of roughly 2 hours.

The roadside view is like this (I didn't take many pictures because I had to make time with the rain that was about to fall).

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We finally arrived at our first accommodation, the "Borklua View Resort".

Room picture

Pongsa Restaurant and the atmosphere at Bor Klue View Resort

Fried chicken with ma-kham-wan

The resort is situated on a hilltop, offering panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and the Mae Wang River below. It also boasts a renowned restaurant, "Pong Sa" (meaning "to eat" in the Lahu language). This eatery focuses on locally sourced ingredients, and many of the dishes are truly delicious. The signature dish, and a must-try, is the "Khai Tod Makhuea" (fried chicken with makhuaen pepper). It's an original recipe and a true culinary delight.

The resort boasts lush greenery and stunning panoramic views. The rooms are comfortable and well-equipped, with spacious balconies. During my stay, construction was underway for additional accommodations, but it did not cause any noise or disruption. However, the water pressure in the shower was extremely weak, making it difficult to enjoy a refreshing shower. I booked my stay through Agoda, and the room rate was approximately 1,300 baht per night.

The next morning, I moved to "Plai Maang The Love Way Resort", which is about 2 km away from Bor Kluea View. It's not far, just drive down from the main road and follow the path. The first impression I had was that the accommodation was very cute, decorated in a slightly Western style with bright colors, perfect for taking photos. The location here is also beautiful. In front of us, we can see the mountains in the distance, and the accommodation is next to a stream. You can hear the sound of water flowing all night long.

The weather during my visit was unpredictable, with alternating sunshine and rain. Planning outdoor activities requires careful timing. Personally, I enjoyed a relaxing stay, listening to the sound of water, reading books, and sipping cold drinks. The resort's tranquility eliminated the need for excursions. It's important to note that the resort lacks a restaurant, offering only breakfast included in the room rate. (I'm unsure if a restaurant is available during the high season.)

The breakfast spread here is truly impressive, offering a wide variety of options to satisfy even the most discerning palate. Guests are welcome to indulge in as much as they desire, with the option to request additional servings if needed. However, for those with a smaller appetite like myself, the initial portion is more than sufficient to ensure a satisfying start to the day.

Accommodation Options at the Resort

The resort offers a variety of accommodation options, including single rooms, double rooms, and shared rooms. The single rooms are priced at 700 baht per night, while double rooms cost around 1,500 baht. There is also a section with container rooms, which are double rooms with a refrigerator and private bathroom. These rooms are located near a stream and offer stunning mountain views. The price for these rooms ranges from 1,200 to 1,500 baht per night.

During my two-night stay, I opted for a container room on the upper floor near the stream, which cost 1,200 baht per night. The sound of the flowing water was incredibly relaxing.

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Overall, Plai Ma Lang is a small resort that is easy to impress. The location is truly beautiful, and you can be very close to nature. The rooms may be a bit small, but they are clean and comfortable. However, I went during the rainy season, so I was prepared for more ants and insects than other seasons. This means that sometimes insects may enter the room, so be careful not to leave the door open.

As mentioned earlier, there are no restaurants in this area, so we have to find food elsewhere. But where? Bo Kluea is a small town nestled in the mountains, and there aren't many restaurants, especially during the low season. Besides Pongsa Restaurant, where we ate on the first day, and the restaurants at various accommodations, there are other options such as Klin Ai Klua, Tao Klua, and Rua Saban. Of course, as a laid-back traveler, I couldn't miss Rua Saban. This restaurant is located right at the bridgehead, as its name suggests. If you've seen the pictures of the river view from Bo Kluea View Resort above, Rua Saban is located below Bo Kluea View, right next to the Mang River. Not only is the view amazing, but the food here is also exceptional. I must say that the menu here is not extensive, but everything I ordered was delicious. I can say this because I stayed here almost every day, having lunch here almost every afternoon, and then sipping drinks and reading books until evening. But what I liked the most was the "Gai Mao Koeng" menu. Tender and chewy free-range chicken marinated in a special recipe by the owner, To, and stir-fried with lemongrass, chilies, garlic, and kaffir lime leaves. It has all the flavors I love. I would rank it as one of the best snacks ever. Haha. The fish dishes are also delicious, but most of the dishes are served in large portions. I was alone and worried that I wouldn't be able to finish it all. But anyway, if you visit Bo Kluea, you must try this restaurant. (During the high season, it can get crowded, and the food might be a bit slow. Just be patient. When I went, it was empty, haha.)

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After two nights of sleeping at the end of the pier, it's time to change our sleeping arrangements again. The last two nights in Bo Kluea will be spent at Apo De Mang.

"Apo de Mang" boasts breathtaking views, culminating the serene journey from the first accommodation to the final stop in Bua Klue. Upon entering the resort, guests pass by the restaurant, where they can check in with staff. While a reception area exists at the entrance, no staff were present at the time. The restaurant offers stunning mountain views, with the Mang River flowing below, bordering the resort's accommodations. The scenery is simply indescribable, as captured in the images below.

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Beware, cat lovers, for you may encounter this... Be careful not to get lost. : )

The day I checked in, I wanted to be alone and fully immerse myself in nature, so I rented the entire resort to myself (just kidding!). In reality, there were no other guests that day. Sleeping in a tent by the river with a view of the mountains was incredibly relaxing. However, walking to the shared bathroom in the middle of the night and then returning to sleep alone was a bit spooky. Thankfully, the friendly cats kept me company for a while.

I chose to stay in a tent called a "Dino Tent," which cost 1,200 baht per night, including breakfast. Is it expensive for a regular tent? Absolutely. But if you consider the atmosphere, you might not find a view like this or such close proximity to nature anywhere else. So, for me, it was worth it (of course, I already paid for it!). It would be even better during the cold season. However, if you prefer more comfort, they also offer other types of rooms as shown below.

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Please note that staying here requires a certain level of physical fitness, as you will need to walk down a steep path from the resort's entrance to reach your accommodation. The distance and incline are significant, especially when walking uphill, and can be quite challenging. However, the staff here are very attentive and provide excellent service. The food is also good, and breakfast is plentiful.

Breakfast

Dinner (not included in the accommodation fee)

Overall, Apo De Maang is another accommodation option worth recommending due to its truly pleasant atmosphere. During the high season, they offer BBQs to enjoy while grilling and feeling the cool breeze. The accommodation options are diverse, catering to different levels of adventure. Choose the one that suits your preference. For those staying in tents with shared bathrooms, there's no need to worry about cleanliness, as the facilities are well-maintained.

Many people may wonder if I only stayed at the salt well resort and didn't go anywhere else. Yes, I didn't go out much because my purpose was to relax, sit, lie down, read books, and listen to the sound of the water. But it's not like I didn't go anywhere at all. I did go out to some places, such as...

"Salt Mine of Sinthav"

It would be remiss not to visit the salt ponds in Bo Kluea, even if only briefly. The Sintawon salt ponds, with a history stretching back over a century, are the sole source of mountain salt in the world. The local residents meticulously preserve the traditional salt-boiling methods. Unfortunately, my visit coincided with the Buddhist Lent period, during which salt production is suspended. As a result, I was unable to witness the actual salt-making process.

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"Saphan Waterfall"

Saphan Waterfall is located in Khun Nan National Park, formed by the Saphan River. It is a medium-sized waterfall with three main tiers, with heights of approximately 3, 5, and 6 meters respectively. The waterfall flows year-round and boasts stunning natural beauty. The surrounding forest is lush and verdant, creating a picturesque setting. (Information from Wikipedia) Saphan Waterfall is approximately 8 km from Apo De Mang. If you visit Baan Bo Kluea, it is highly recommended to visit this waterfall as well, as it is incredibly beautiful and natural. On the way to the waterfall, it started to rain lightly and then became heavier. I had to stop and put on my raincoat quickly. Near Saphan Waterfall, you will pass the popular accommodation "Aun Ai Mang." Unfortunately, it was temporarily closed for renovation during my visit; otherwise, I would have stayed there for another night. Returning to the waterfall, the rain had just stopped when I arrived. However, I was a bit hesitant to walk in alone because the sky was still overcast, and I didn't have any companions. But I decided to give it a try and walked into the forest alone. The signage here is minimal, almost non-existent. I continued walking until I could go no further. As it turned out, I had reached the top of the third tier without realizing it.

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Third floor

After leaving the waterfall, we stopped to take some photos at Aun Ai Mang.

After that, we returned to our accommodation. On the way, we tried to go up to Khun Nan National Park, which also offers accommodation and hiking activities to a scenic viewpoint. However, due to the heavy rain at the time, the path was blocked by landslides, so we were unable to access it.

Today, I will rest and recharge for tomorrow's journey to Pua. I will summarize and continue writing from the salt well episode.

The small town of Bo Kluea has much more to offer than one might expect. From its sights and people to its atmosphere, everything is excellent. Although some things may not go as planned, such as the weather, the Maeng River, which may not be as clear as it is in the winter, or the road conditions in some areas where mudslides have occurred, the relevant agencies are working quickly to repair the damage. Of course, there will always be obstacles when traveling, but it's up to us to decide whether to give up or not. See you again soon in our review of Amphoe Pua.