"Our sole aim is to remind the Thai people that Pattani remains an integral part of Thailand."


One sentence that I vividly remember while listening to Mr. Pae recount the origin of the community tourism project in Ban Sai Khao, Pattani province, left me speechless and choked up. I could sense a deep-seated resentment hidden beneath his determination.

When mentioning the three southernmost provinces of Thailand, it is difficult to prevent some people from thinking of the long-standing unrest, leading many to believe that these areas are unsafe. Pattani is one such province.

The compass of these people's journeys has never pointed to this area.


- 1 -

After gathering all trip members, the journey began at the train station and ended at Hat Yai Airport. Three vans headed towards Pattani. The most scenic route started from Thep, Sakom, along a long coastal road with scattered fishing villages and occasional open fields. Within an hour, we reached our destination.

Stripped of the violence that has haunted its image in the media, Pattani city unfolds before me as a tranquil scene. The volume of traffic corresponds to the size of the city, and people go about their daily lives. The muddy Pattani River flows slowly through the city center, lined with fishing boats that underscore the importance of the fishing industry. Bridges span the river, connecting the administrative center with the old community that thrived during the golden age of trade.

I am familiar with the way of life here, having lived here as a student. The most interesting thing about this city is its multicultural society. This is why it is home to a collection of ancient sites and sacred places of many religions, such as the Lim Ko Niao Shrine, the Kru Se Mosque, and the City Pillar Shrine. The first day's itinerary is therefore an introduction to Pattani through the history of its places. It is a bit serious, but interesting. It gives us a sense of the coexistence of different religions with respect and understanding. Wat Chang Hai is the last program before we enter the community.

In terms of reading a book, I have only finished the opening preface today.




-2-

It takes no more than half an hour to travel from the city center to Saikhao Village, a new tourist community that is just as charming as any other. Just a few hundred meters off the main road, I could hardly believe my eyes that there was a village hidden there. Between each house, there are small roads with barely enough space for cars to pass, serving as the main thoroughfare. Several hundred-year-old wooden houses demand attention, making it impossible for me to look away. This further emphasizes the village's age and allure. Looking further out, the Sankalakhiri mountain range stretches out as a backdrop, adding to the community's beauty.

After listening to the village stories, we dispersed to our respective hosts' homes to rest. A traditional dinner was prepared for us, featuring vermicelli noodles with fish curry to whet our appetites, followed by fish sour curry, pumpkin curry in coconut milk, and fresh vegetables with chili dip. The highlight was the fresh stink beans. The simple yet extraordinary flavors turned us into ravenous diners.


Negative three

05.15

The alarm on my phone woke me up as instructed. The air was cool and refreshing. I quickly took care of my personal business before the appointed time. A World War II-era jeep was already waiting for us in front of the house. Four cars carrying twenty of us braved the steep climb to the Big Buddha viewpoint to see the sea of fog. However, due to the lack of humidity caused by the absence of rain for several days, the sea of fog did not appear for us to photograph.

Breakfast is not a common practice in our household. Instead, we frequent local tea shops that offer a diverse menu of tea, coffee, roti, rice noodles, and rice salad. These establishments serve as gathering places for the community, offering affordable meals with main dishes costing only 10-20 baht and beverages priced at 5-10 baht. This simple and unpretentious lifestyle holds a unique charm that resonates with the local populace.

Today, we explored the local community by jeep, a unique mode of transportation, passing through rubber plantations, palm groves, forests, and orchards. We learned about the production of premium durian, a symbol of pride for Sai Khao.

After lunch, we went for a walk to digest at Sai Khao Waterfall, playing in the water to refresh ourselves from the hot afternoon sun. After returning from the waterfall, there were joint activities for each family, followed by dinner together.

Our household feast included a refreshing pomelo salad, stir-fried rice noodles with betel leaf curry for a light bite, steamed rice as the staple, stinky beans and grilled banana blossom with chili dip as the main course, and concluded with a sweet treat of "khanom ko" (a traditional Thai coconut dessert).

In the evening, we had an additional activity by visiting the Pattani Central Mosque and stopping by a tea shop to try roti. Life here seems to be going on as usual, with the tea and roti shops being the most lively.

What I see is so different from what I knew before.


-4-

The chickens here are industrious. They crow to wake us up before we even have a chance to rest. It's been happening since midnight.

The final morning, I didn't need to wake up early, but my internal clock was still accustomed to waking up around 5:30 AM. The air was as fresh as ever, and our breakfast was similar to the previous day, with the added bonus of eating together with the homeowner. We got to know other restaurants, talked and got to know the aunts, and learned about their eating culture, which was different from that of city dwellers.

Urban and rural lifestyles differ in their breakfast consumption patterns.

Today, we had a closer look at the villagers' way of life. We visited the Garcinia Cambogia processing group, but unfortunately, we were unable to participate in the process. We only had a chance to talk to them because the group had to rush to an event in Bangkok. We also visited the Jua Tani tie-dye weaving group. If I hadn't come here, I wouldn't have known how famous their craftsmanship is. We observed the banana chips production, which adds value to local produce and provides jobs for group members, ensuring they receive fair benefits.

The Wat Sai Khao and the ancient Masjid Nujmuddin stand as testaments to the harmonious coexistence of Thai Buddhists and Thai Muslims in this region. The shared history of these communities is evident in the mosque's design, which incorporates elements reminiscent of Buddhist temples. This collaboration between the abbot and the imam, dating back approximately three centuries, exemplifies the deep-rooted bonds of brotherhood that unite these communities.


This incident further reminds me of what I was told on the first day: that people here, despite their different religions, speak the same language: the language of white sand.

After exchanging and suggesting ideas about the three-day travel program, it's time to say goodbye to the community. I believe this place must have given us more than just "tourism".


-5-

The purpose of sharing this story is to raise awareness and hope that the red color marking the three provinces on the map will eventually fade away.

Our car slowly moved out of the village, passing the border between Pattani and Songkhla. But this sentence still stuck in my head.

"Our sole aim is to remind the Thai people that Pattani remains an integral part of Thailand."

Some things may require significant time and effort, but if we work together,

I believe that soon

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Thank you

Community-based tourism in Ban Sai Khao, Pattani. Contact Mr. Chanin Sainin at 089-7379553 or 081-0946016.

Thank you Community-Based Tourism Institute : CBT-I

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#ban sai khao community#pattani#community#thailand#community tourism#automobile#personal vehicle#bus#public transportation
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