This is my first time visiting Nakhon Si Thammarat.
Thanks to the cheap flight promotion, it made everything easier to decide. So the journey began easily, without any expectations. Go with an open mind, ready to embrace new experiences that have never been encountered before. Just 1 day to visit "Nakhon Si Thammarat" this time may not be enough to fully explore, but it also brought back many new things to the house.
**Nakhon Si Thammarat** is one of the 12 must-visit cities. Many people have heard and are familiar with the term **"Two Dharmas"**, which means **"Dharma + Nature"** and cannot be separated. *This is the new perspective of Nakhon Si Thammarat city.*
"Dharma" Nakhon Si Thammarat is a city that is a center of religion. It has the Phra Borommathat Chedi at Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan, a sacred landmark of the city, which enshrines the relics of the Buddha and his tooth. It has long been a spiritual center for Buddhists around the world.
"Nature" Nakhon Si Thammarat is a city with abundant nature, including forests, waterfalls, and beaches. Khao Luang in Lan Saka district is the highest peak in southern Thailand, earning it the nickname "Green Roof of the South." Lan Saka is also known for having the best air quality in Thailand, particularly in Kiriwong Village, which is the best place in Thailand to breathe fresh air. This area has become increasingly popular in recent years.
6:00 AM Departure!
The journey began at Don Mueang Airport, with a budget flight ticket that had been booked in advance for quite some time. However, at a round-trip price of **160 baht**, it was something that was acceptable. The one-day trip, with less than 12 hours of sightseeing time, was worth trying at least once.
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8:00 AM Good morning Nakhon Si Thammarat
In just over an hour... I arrived in Nakhon Si Thammarat province. The atmosphere was gloomy with dark clouds covering the sky. I prayed silently that it wouldn't rain, as that would make it difficult to get around. Since I hadn't planned any specific destinations, this trip seemed more like a leisurely, spontaneous adventure. However, it wasn't completely aimless. My main goal was to pay respects at the Phra That at Phra Maha That Woramahawihan.
**Traveling from Nakhon Si Thammarat Airport** to the city center, a distance of 14 kilometers, can be quite expensive, especially if you're traveling alone. The taxi fare from the airport to the city is 300 baht per car. However, there are ways to save money. You can share the taxi fare with other passengers, or if you're traveling in a small group of 3-4 people, it might be more cost-effective to take a taxi together.
8:45 AM. Gopee Gopee
Stepping out of the car, I stood in front of the Nakhon Si Thammarat Provincial Hall, my first destination this morning. Of course, the first thing I needed to do was find something to eat to fill my stomach. After searching online for delicious restaurants in Nakhon Si Thammarat city, I ended up at this restaurant: "ร้านโกปี๊".
Walking into the alley beside the provincial hall, not far away, you will see an old building decorated in Chinese style, which is full of people sitting around in circles, sipping coffee and having breakfast. This is the "Kopitiam" that I was looking for with hunger. I stood there, scanning my eyes for an empty table to sit down. Soon, I found an empty table, a small table in a corner of the shop. I have to admit that this place is very popular with customers in the morning.
The restaurant's menu offers a wide variety of options, mostly consisting of breakfast dishes, tea, and various types of coffee. During busy periods like this, it might take a while to get your order. However, with hunger pangs growing louder and more intense by the minute, we decided to order a variety of dishes without considering whether we could actually finish them all. But...we figured we could handle it.
Coffee was the first thing that was served quickly. In fact, the aroma of coffee wafted into my nose as soon as I walked into the shop. And it's a must-have for a sleepy morning like this. Kopi Pishino, hot coffee... the fragrant aroma, followed by iced tea, refreshing... it will surely wake you up.
We need to find something heavy to fill our stomachs, followed by "Bak Kut Teh", which is a popular breakfast dish here. The "Bak Kut Teh" menu consists of tender pork ribs stewed in a broth of herbs and spices. It must have been stewed for hours, because just the smell of it is enough to tell you how concentrated it is. Topped with my favorite golden needle mushrooms!
"Bak Kut Teh" served with hot steamed rice, a dish seen on almost every table in the restaurant.
Moving on to the "dim sum", there is a wide variety to choose from, according to your preference. Steamed hot, dipped in sour sauce or chili sauce.
If you still feel a little peckish, finish off with a "soft-boiled egg", drizzle some Maggi sauce, sprinkle a little pepper, and you're good to go!
10.20 a.m. Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan
After being full from "ร้านโกปี๊", I sat for a while to let my stomach settle down a bit. Then I walked out of the alley next to the city hall and turned right 90 degrees. I walked past the front of the provincial city hall, with my next destination being Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan. This trip would be without a travel plan, but Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan was one of the destinations and the main purpose of this trip.
As the morning progressed, the overcast sky began to give way to sunshine, casting a warm glow that hinted at the heat to come. Walking along Ratchadamnoen Road for about 800 meters, I arrived at the "Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan", or as the locals call it, "Wat Phra That". This significant landmark serves as a symbol of pride for the people of Nakhon Si Thammarat and Buddhists alike.
And the widely known symbol of Nakhon Si Thammarat Province is the Phra Borommathat Chedi, located within Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan. It houses the sacred relics of the Lord Buddha, making it one of the most important religious sites in the southern region.
Seeking refuge from the heat and taking a break to pay respects to the Buddha within the temple grounds for good luck. This temple has many Buddha statues, both large and small, but there is one sacred Buddha statue that is called "Phra Ad-Puad Hai", Phra Kajjanaya (Phra Ad), which is said to be... "At Wat Phra Mahathat in Nakhon Si Thammarat, there is a sacred Buddha statue that is believed to have the miraculous power to grant children to those who ask in a unique way. Villagers believe that if anyone has aches and pains, back pain, or back pain, they can bring a stick to prop up the back of the Buddha statue, and the pain will miraculously disappear." 1 of 24 stories... that are not just told to make us believe, but told to make us go out and see. Whether the pain will actually disappear as the story says or not, we'll just have to go and experience it for ourselves!
The area surrounding the main stupa is surrounded by many small stupas called satellite stupas. These stupas were built by descendants of ancestors to house the ashes of their deceased relatives. It is believed that their relatives will be reborn in the religion of the Buddha again in the next life.
The golden bell-shaped stupa is a striking architectural feature, with its spire covered in pure gold.
One of the wonders of the Phra Borommathat Chedi is that the Chedi casts no shadow on the ground, no matter which direction the sunlight shines.
Every year, the "Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan" temple holds the "Cloth Offering Ceremony", a tradition in which a long piece of cloth is carried in a procession to be offered to the Lord Buddha. The cloth is then used to wrap around the Phra Borommathat Chedi, a sacred stupa. This tradition has been observed by the people of Nakhon Si Thammarat and Buddhists in neighboring provinces for many years.
Originally, the procession of cloth to the stupa was held twice a year, on Makha Bucha Day and Visakha Bucha Day, with the cloth being used to drape the Phra Borommathat Chedi. However, it is now more common to do this on the 15th day of the waxing moon of the 3rd month, or Makha Bucha Day.
11:00 a.m. Visit the house of Khun Ratchawutthiwichain.
Cross the road from the front of Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan, on the right-hand side, no more than 200 meters. That will be "Khun Ratchawuthi Wichan's House". The history is that... This place was the original home of Khun Ratchawuthi Wichan and was given to his nephew, Mr. Kowit Trisatyanupandh, to be used as a school, Nakhon Witthaya. After the school closed, the house was renovated, preserved, and repaired to maintain its beauty. It is an ancient site for future generations of Nakhon people.
Come and admire the beauty of the building, which is entirely made of wood, except for the entrance, which is made of concrete. This over 100-year-old hip-roofed house is truly stunning. Admission is free every day.
This house of Khun has received the Outstanding Architectural Conservation Award in 2013 for the category of private residences from the Association of Siamese Architects under Royal Patronage.
The hip-roofed house is a unique feature of the south, where the building can receive wind from all directions to dissipate heat. Walking around this house, you feel a sense of openness and airiness, not as hot and stuffy as you might think. Both the house and the atmosphere, as well as the old decorations, make you feel like you've stepped back in time to experience the past of this place.
**12.20 p.m. Must have Khanom Jeen Panyom!**
Hunger began to creep in again.. I had heard that the "Khanom Jeen" in this area was delicious, and the famous Khanom Jeen restaurant was not far from the front of the Phra Maha That Woramahawihan Temple. After asking the locals in the area, I found out that the restaurant was located in Soi Panyom, opposite the Phra Maha That Woramahawihan Temple. It was within walking distance. It wasn't long before I arrived at one of the famous Khanom Jeen restaurants in Nakhon Si Thammarat Province, Khanom Jeen Muang Kon-Panyom Restaurant. At lunchtime, the restaurant was quite crowded, giving it a lively atmosphere. I took the opportunity to spot an empty table and went to occupy it. The table was set with an abundance of vegetables and side dishes.
**The highlight of the rice noodles here** is that they are fresh, thin, and soft, making them easy to chew. There is a wide variety of curries to choose from, all authentic Southern Thai recipes with rich flavors, such as Southern-style coconut curry, fish maw curry, and green curry. They are served with a variety of fresh vegetables, just like the curries. The set comes with several types of curry, allowing you to savor the different flavors and textures.
And one thing that caught my eye was the "mangosteen on a stick", or what is called "mangosteen selection". It can be found everywhere, whether at this Khanom Jeen shop or in trays carried around tourist attractions. It is most commonly available during the months of June-August, but it can also be found in other months. "Mangosteen selection" is the process of taking unripe mangosteens that are not yet ripe, with their hard green skin, and peeling them with a knife (which in the local language is called "selection") until only the white flesh is left. They are then soaked in lime water to remove any sap and to make the mangosteen flesh whiter and more appealing. Before being sold on sticks, they are dried. Out of curiosity, I picked up 1 stick for 20 baht. The taste of the selected mangosteen is different from that of fresh mangosteen in that it is sweet and crunchy. You can eat both the flesh and the seeds. Just biting into it, you can feel the crunch, even though it wasn't as sweet as I thought it would be. It was a bit tart, but it was still enjoyable to eat. Then the vendor offered me 3 sticks for 50 baht. That was all it took for the remaining 2 sticks to end up in my stomach.
In the afternoon.. I still didn't know where to go next. I saw a bus with the route Nakhon Si Thammarat - Pak Phanang passing in front of Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan. The thought crossed my mind.. Maybe I should take a bus to Pak Phanang for fun. And in fact, I didn't know anything about Pak Phanang. When I quickly searched for information, I saw that Pak Phanang is only 30 kilometers away from the city center. It wouldn't take long to travel, so I thought I should go and see the atmosphere there. I had only heard the name "Pak Phanang" before, so I had to go and see it. It seemed like everything would be easy as I thought. I walked out of the noodle shop and stood waiting for a bus in front of the alley on the main road. It wasn't long before the ice cream truck, which if it were a person, would be about the age of my uncle, slowly pulled up and stopped by the side of the road. I stepped up and became another passenger on the journey.
With the personal confidence that the distance of more than 30 kilometers would not take long, but when I experienced the speed of the car, I could estimate that the travel time might be slower than expected. And the sweet cold car still ran with a chill, picking up and dropping off passengers throughout the journey. Although it may seem slow, it gave me a good look at the local way of life.
2:15 PM Crossing the river to Pak Phanang
Lost in thought, I found myself in Pak Phanang before I knew it. The bus came to a stop at the ferry terminal, where the "Century Market" stood on the opposite bank, tempting me to cross over. The ferry ride here is incredibly cheap, costing only 1 baht! After a 5-minute journey, I arrived at the Pak Phanang River Basin to witness the local way of life.
When you visit "Pak Phanang", you'll be greeted by the sound of chirping birds. This is because the area is home to a large population of swiftlets, which build their nests in houses, buildings, and shophouses. In fact, some of these buildings have been designated as swiftlet sanctuaries!
The way of life that is seen until it becomes a familiar sight of the villagers in the Pak Phanang River Basin
Crossing over to the "Century Market", it wasn't long before the rain began to fall, welcoming our arrival. It must have been holding back all day, dark clouds gathering, and now it was time for release. Strangely enough, it created a relaxing atmosphere, a cool, refreshing comfort of a different kind.
The falling rain forced me to seek shelter and inevitably led me to a riverside restaurant to escape the downpour. With the pleasant atmosphere and the late afternoon hunger pangs, I ordered food to be served at the table by the water's edge. Fried fish and fresh vegetable chili paste were served with refreshing drinks.
The light rain falling in the Pak Phanang Basin, the cool and refreshing air, and a sip of beer perfectly capture the essence of relaxation.
The rain soon stopped, just as the liquid in the bottle I was drinking... ran out. The freshness of the sky after the rain came back to life. It was time to go for a walk around the market. On the side of the Pak Phanang Centennial Market, you can see buildings and houses with European-style architecture mixed with ancient Chinese architecture. Although they are 100 years old, they are still beautiful, from the past to the present.
The 100-Year Market of Pak Phanang
The Pak Phanang 100-Year Market, as its name suggests, boasts a rich history spanning over a century. This bustling marketplace offers a diverse selection of goods, with fresh seafood taking center stage. Visitors can also find an abundance of fresh fruits and vegetables, along with a variety of dried seafood perfect for souvenirs. For a more leisurely experience, explore the riverside market and savor delicious local snacks while soaking in the vibrant atmosphere.
5:00 PM Farewell to "Pak Phanang"
After a leisurely stroll through the market, it was time to take the ferry back across the river for 1 baht, the same price as the trip over.
With only **one day left** in **Nakhon Si Thammarat**, I took a ferry across the river to capture the last moments of the sunset. I then boarded the same old bus back to the city center and continued on to Nakhon Si Thammarat Airport, fearing that I might miss my flight. Upon arriving at the airport, it was time to say goodbye to **"Mueang Kon"**.
All in all, this is a one-day trip to "Nakhon Si Thammarat". Even though it was a short time, I got to see the way of life and beautiful nature. The atmosphere is very relaxing. If I have the chance, I will definitely visit this "must-visit city" again!
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Friday, September 27, 2024 10:04 AM