Live recording July 6-7, 2016 [Phi Ta Khon: Faith, Tradition, and Tourism]
[Live recording of my journey]
Follow the author's page to see photos and recommendations for tourist attractions http://facebook.com/omeoyou
Finding a place to stay during the Phi Ta Khon festival is a challenge, but I managed to secure a room. Fearing that there would be no accommodation left, I left Phu Ruea after only one day and headed towards Dan Sai, driving through the pouring rain all the way from July 4, 2016.
My concerns were valid. Most accommodations are already fully booked (some were even booked as early as last year). The remaining available accommodations have seen their prices skyrocket, with a 2-3 times increase during the dates of the Phi Ta Khon festival (October 6th-8th).
Some of these houses are likely to be promoted overseas, as they have been fully booked since last year, mainly by foreign tourists.
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A corner of Wat Neramit Vipassana, a temple that provides accommodation for those who cannot find a place to stay, if the temple is not full first.
On the 4th day, I planned to get a full night's sleep and didn't do much. I intended to visit Wat Phra That Sri Song Rak and Wat Neramit Vipassana on the 5th instead (which I have already posted a live blog of the 5th day at this link https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.987723077991709.1073741837.967529293344421&type=3)
**Day of Homage: Rituals Marking the Beginning of the Spirit** July 6th of this year marks the first day of the Bun Luang festival, locally known as "Day of Homage." Some rituals actually begin as early as 4:00 AM, including the "Phra Beik Upakut" ceremony held between the Lam Nam Man and Lam Nam Sok rivers. While I didn't witness all the ceremonies, I arrived during the "Bai Sri Su Khwan" ceremony for Chao Pho Kuan and Chao Mae Nang Thiam at Chao Pho Kuan's house, which began at 8:30 AM.
During the Bang Sri Su Khwan ceremony, the figures depicted are Chao Pho Kuan and Chao Mae Nang Thiam.
I opened Google Maps on my phone and searched for the house of the Guan Yu deity, but I had a feeling that I wouldn't be able to find it. And indeed, I couldn't. So I asked some people nearby, but some didn't know. However, some older people did know, and they pointed me in the right direction. It wasn't far from the event area, so I could have walked if I wanted to. But it was raining the whole time, not heavily, but lightly and constantly.
The Godfather's Mansion
Even without seeing the sign, it was clear that this was the house of Chao Pho Kuan (coordinates https://goo.gl/maps/WonQkr1eoyD2). Television media vehicles were parked there, and people were gathered in front of a traditional Thai wooden house. A sign in front of the house clearly stated that it was the house of Chao Pho Kuan.
Brahmin performing the auspicious ceremony
According to local accounts, the selection of the "Lord of Khuan" takes place through a ceremony at the Phra That Si Song Rak temple. Once chosen, the individual has no choice but to accept the role. It is unclear whether this information is confused with the "Father Saen" and "Nang Taeng" figures. However, it is understood that the "Lord of Khuan" and the "Lady Nang Thiam" hold greater authority than Father Saen and Nang Taeng.
The men sat together, separate from the women.
The majority of attendees at this type of ceremony are elderly, although there are a few young people present.
With polite demeanor, I entered the house, attempting to minimize disruption. I joined a group of cameramen, observing the film crew shooting the movie "Ghost Following People."
The term "Phra Ta Khon" originates from the behavior of the forest spirits in the Vessantara Jataka. When Prince Vessantara returned to the capital, the spirits were so heartbroken that they followed his procession. This led to the name "Phra Ta Khon," which later evolved into "Phi Ta Khon."
A film crew was present to capture footage.
Old review thread about tourist attractions
Live recording June 30 - July 3, 2016 [Chiang Khan in the rainy season, fog, smiles] (http://pantip.com/topic/35345418)
Live recording on June 29, 2016 [Loei Province, Phu Bo Bit, rainy season, fog and stars on the ground] (http://pantip.com/topic/35329482)
Live Recording June 28, 2016 Loei City: Lost, Fun, Tired, Wet, Impressed by Kindness
Live Recording June 25-26, 2016 [First Visit to Loei, Impressed by the Sky Road] (http://pantip.com/topic/35316607)
Giant catfish, Taktawan, Talay Noi, water buffalo, migratory birds, Lamphu tree - Talay Noi - Phatthalung (http://pantip.com/topic/34977668)
The serene wooden bridge, a testament to the Mon people's way of life - The Mon Bridge - Sangkhla Buri - Kanchanaburi (http://pantip.com/topic/34907371)
Admire the sea of mist and experience the warm hospitality at Khao Pha Nen Thung - Khao Pha Nen Thung - Kaeng Krachan National Park - Phetchaburi (http://pantip.com/topic/34582338)
Bang Phra Reservoir: A Cyclist's Paradise for Finding Like-Minded Companions
The Bang Phra Reservoir in Chonburi is a haven for cyclists seeking a scenic and challenging ride. This popular destination offers a picturesque setting with stunning views of the surrounding hills and the vast expanse of water.
The reservoir's well-maintained paths provide a smooth and enjoyable cycling experience, making it suitable for riders of all levels. Whether you're a seasoned cyclist looking for a vigorous workout or a casual rider seeking a leisurely afternoon spin, Bang Phra has something to offer everyone.
Beyond its physical attributes, the reservoir also fosters a strong sense of community among cyclists. The shared passion for the sport creates a welcoming atmosphere, making it easy to connect with fellow enthusiasts and form lasting friendships.
So, if you're looking for a place to escape the hustle and bustle of city life and immerse yourself in the beauty of nature while enjoying the camaraderie of fellow cyclists, Bang Phra Reservoir is the perfect destination.
This page showcases my photography and travel recommendations. Visit my Facebook page for more: https://www.facebook.com/omeoyou/
The ceremony is carried out by elderly people who are waiting for their successors.
It is not surprising to observe that almost all the participants in this ceremony are grandparents, uncles, and aunts. In some ceremonies, such as the Sri Su Khwan ceremony for Chao Pho Kuan and Chao Mae Nang Thiam, there will be a speaker who recites various prayers and dresses like a Brahmin. While it is likely that they are Brahmins, I cannot confirm this as I did not ask anyone directly. Chao Pho and Chao Mae also sit in the ceremony. The participants are separated by gender, with men and women sitting on opposite sides. (Note that during the procession or circumambulation of the temple, men and women also walk separately.)
The group responsible for playing the musical instruments began to gather after the chanting had ceased.
As the chanting of the ceremony ceased, two masked dancers known as "Phi Ta Khon" emerged from below and began to dance with the crowd.
Despite the incessant drizzle, elderly residents continued to arrive at the event, making the area in front of the shrine even more crowded than when I first arrived.
Photographers from various media outlets, freelance photographers, and even some tourists participated in capturing the important rituals of the Phi Ta Khon festival.
As time passed, approximately an hour, several elderly women wearing colorful clothing emerged, carrying gongs, long drums, cymbals, and clappers. I am unsure why only women were present at that moment, but men did appear later. Meanwhile, in front of the house, two masked dancers known as "Phi Ta Khon" began to perform. Music played, drums and cymbals were struck, and people joined in the dance amidst the falling rain.
The first small group of Phi Ta Khon masked dancers was seen moving past the shrine of Chao Pho Kuan and heading towards Wat Phon Chai.
If the camera focuses on a Phi Ta Khon, most of them will immediately make a threatening gesture towards the camera, playing along with their ghostly nature.
Nearly half an hour later, the ceremony upstairs was over. The participants were having a meal together (it is unclear whether the communal meal was part of the ceremony). Meanwhile, a procession of Phi Ta Khon masked dancers paraded from the front of Chao Pho Kuan Shrine to Wat Phon Chai (coordinates: https://goo.gl/maps/4phiaBKEMBU2)). This temple is considered the birthplace of Phi Ta Khon and serves as the final destination for various Phi Ta Khon rituals. It also houses the Phi Ta Khon Museum.
There is also a group of gold arhats. Hey, no, I don't know what it's called.
The faces of the older students were unreadable as they walked by, singing a song in a language I couldn't understand.
The parade stopped at Wat Phon Chai for a while before dispersing to the stage of the municipality where the festival was held (coordinates https://goo.gl/maps/6tLhWN7Lf5x). This stage was the main attraction of the festival, featuring concerts and a large parade of government and private organizations participating in the event on the 7th. At night, this place will be crowded.
A variety of Phi Ta Khon masks have begun to appear, but not as many as in the evening when villagers dress up as Phi Ta Khon and join in the festivities.
The ghosts of Phi Ta Khon, also known as the "ghosts who follow people," are said to have entered the city with Phra Wes. These ghosts, who had never seen a city before, wandered around, playing pranks on the townspeople. However, they were not harmful. When their time was up, the ghosts returned to the forest, taking with them all the bad things from the city, leaving the people happy.
This ghost is a bit more experienced, and enjoys playing tricks on the villagers.
Even children were not spared, but most children were only slightly afraid, not to the point of crying. However, the little one was not afraid.
Hey, wait up! I can't keep up with the group (I bet you can, you've been fooling everyone you pass).
Therefore, it is not surprising to see Phi Ta Khon events where people dress up as Phi Ta Khon and walk around the city, teasing others. Most people smile and play along, having fun (I haven't seen anyone getting upset from being teased yet).
The smiles of the elderly who witnessed this kind of playfulness are a testament to the fact that the ghosts have departed along with their sorrows, leaving behind only joy and smiles.
Most ghosts will walk around and allow tourists to take pictures of them. When they see a camera, they will pose as if they are trying to scare people into taking their picture. However, they are generally not playful unless they see a camera. There are some Phi Ta Khon ghosts who seem to be particularly playful, as they tease people all over the place, making many people laugh.
People in the city continued their daily lives on the 6th.
I am Phi Ta Khon.
Phi Ta Khon is divided into 2 types: Phi Ta Khon Yai, which cannot be made by just anyone. The person who makes Phi Ta Khon Yai will be selected. Once they become the maker of Phi Ta Khon Yai, they must continue to do so for at least 3 years and are not allowed to stop making it halfway. Meanwhile, Phi Ta Khon Noi, or the Phi Ta Khon that we are familiar with, has fewer conditions. Anyone can make it and anyone can wear it. Therefore, there are shops selling components such as Phi Ta Khon headgear, bells, and weapons for tourists to wear (but from what I've seen, few tourists actually buy them to wear, but there are some).
The large Phi Ta Khon masks are worn by only one male and one female, who are pictured here circling the chapel of Wat Phon Chai.
The procession that circles the temple will be led by Chao Pho Kuan.
The young Phi Ta Khon spirits are armed with swords or halberds, the handles of which are shaped like male genitalia. They also carry noisemakers, such as cowbells, buffalo bells (mak ka laeng), or tin cans, which are usually tied to their backs. When they walk or dance, the noisemakers make a loud noise. The masks of the Phi Ta Khon spirits are made from sticky rice steamers and coconut husks.
Bells or noisemakers are readily available for purchase at local stores in the area.
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The young Phi Ta Khon are not only found in the procession, but also among the villagers and children who dress up as various Phi Ta Khon characters for fun and to be photographed by tourists. Many children seem to particularly enjoy this event.
Numerous private organizations also participated in the event, using it as an opportunity to promote their own public relations efforts.
The sun is setting, the wind is falling, the sky is dark, and people are having fun.
It may not be related to the sun because the Phi Ta Khon festival is during the rainy season when it rains almost all the time. It would be nice to see some sun, but all I see is rain and fog. However, as dusk falls, more people are walking around. Perhaps it is because people are starting to arrive on the 6th to prepare for the big parade on the 7th. But there may not be any Phi Ta Khon walking around on the night of the 7th (not confirmed) because there is a ceremony to discard the Phi Ta Khon masks in the evening. Therefore, to see the Phi Ta Khon at night, you must come on the first night of the first day.
The large stage of the municipality was filled with people, and the crowd grew significantly.
Despite the ongoing rain, the concertgoers remained enthusiastic.
Vendors from all over the country have set up shop here. One vendor, who sells cotton candy from Mukdahan, is selling here for the first time. He said that he was lucky to get a spot at the event, as others had been searching for one without success. He was only able to get a spot because the previous cotton candy vendor had gone into labor and had to leave.
Translation:
The food and snack stalls were doing a brisk business, but at the souvenir shop, I ended up buying two of their shirts.
The vendor, hailing from Bangkok, has traveled to this location to sell clothing. They have brought a tent, intending to sleep here as finding alternative accommodation seems unlikely.
The souvenir clothing store here has a wide variety of unique designs, unlike other tourist destinations where I've seen similar designs in multiple stores. The designs at this store are so unique that I bought two shirts. The owner is a local resident.
In fact, some shops have been open since the 5th.
This person set up a tent in their car to sleep and guard their stall, as finding accommodation was already difficult.
In addition, there are other foods available for purchase to eat while walking around the event.
Translation:
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People brought their children out to enjoy the evening festivities.
I'm not sure if this person is dressed as a Phi Ta Khon, but they do resemble one.
Tourists are taking pictures everywhere.
This mask depicts a Phi Ta Khon spirit.
The most prominent festive event will likely be held at the stage near the municipality. This is because the event will feature a stand-style seating arrangement for people to enjoy the festivities and concerts. Additionally, on the 7th, this location will serve as the starting point for the procession of various organizations. However, for tonight, the focus is solely on entertainment, with no processions or appearances by ghosts or spirits.
The appearance of Phi Ta Khon varies greatly depending on the individual's creativity. According to organizers and local accounts, Phi Ta Khon masks were traditionally designed to be frightening, using old and worn-out fabrics. In contrast, modern masks are often more elaborate and aesthetically pleasing, reflecting the diverse ideas of the creators.
The group of Phi Ta Khon masks on the concert stage had a great time.
"Even if you're tired, you need to take a break. You can't dance all night with a mask on."
Ghosts cannot be captured by cameras. They must be posed.
Two foreigners encountered three ghosts who greeted them with a "ha." The foreigners returned the greeting with a "ha" of their own.
Can we stop by 7-Eleven, brother ghost?
On the 7th, people flocked from all directions. No one knows when the Phi Ta Khon Festival will be held because it is determined by spirit possession. In some years, such as this year, it will not coincide with the weekend. However, the large number of people on the 7th seemed to be a problem, as it was significantly different from the 6th. I don't want to think about how many people there would be if it fell on a Friday, Saturday, or Sunday.
Translation:
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The crowd is massive. I can't imagine how crowded it would be on a weekend.
My camera overheated after standing in a crowded place for a long time.
The sight of numerous parked cars with license plates from various provinces evokes a sense of amusement and intrigue. While in Bangkok, one typically encounters license plates from the capital city, and in Loei, plates from the province itself are prevalent. However, at the Phi Ta Khon festival, the surrounding vehicles display a diverse array of license plates, creating a unique and fascinating spectacle.
Translation:
The original text describes a scene with many large, classic motorcycles, including some belonging to housewives and others with a cool aesthetic. However, the writer expresses concern about the loud exhaust pipes on some of the motorcycles, particularly those driven on the night of the 6th, as they were disruptive and inappropriate for the occasion.
Not only cars, but also motorcycles, big and small, classic and modern, were seen in large numbers. However, on the 7th, Kaew Asa Road, which passes in front of Wat Phon Chai, will be closed. Even as I traveled from Dan Sai to Phetchabun to wait for my younger sister to take pictures of the event, I still encountered groups of motorcyclists of all kinds running in the opposite direction, which I believe were going to the Phi Ta Khon festival.
The Rituals of the 7th and 8th Days
While the abundance of Phi Ta Khon spirits roaming the streets on the 7th day is a sight to behold, other significant rituals take place during this time. Unfortunately, due to travel constraints, I was unable to witness these ceremonies firsthand. However, based on local accounts, they appear to be captivating and exhilarating events for outsiders like myself.
Here are some of the key rituals that occur on the 7th and 8th days:
- [Insert specific rituals here]
These rituals offer a glimpse into the rich cultural heritage and spiritual beliefs of the region. They are a testament to the community's deep connection to tradition and their dedication to preserving their unique customs.
While I missed the opportunity to capture these events through my lens, the descriptions I heard paint a vivid picture of their significance and allure. The enthusiasm and passion with which the locals spoke about these rituals further highlight their importance within the community.
Kaeo A-Sa Road will be closed on the 7th, but not on the 6th.
Translation:
The procession leader, dressed in a traditional costume, led the way to the municipal stage to prepare for the opening ceremony of the parade. Representatives from various countries were present, and the Deputy Prime Minister presided over the event. It was observed that men and women walked separately.
Translation:
In the foreground are tourists. In the middle is the procession of the Lord Guan. In the background is Wat Phra Non.
Many people followed him.
This must be what it feels like to be haunted.
Please translate:
Day 7
3:00 PM
- The Bai Sri ceremony to bless the statue of Phra Vessantara (at the Kuan Tao Shrine)
3:30 PM.
- Procession to invite Phra Vessantara to the city (from Chao Pho Kuan's house to Wat Phon Chai)
- Procession of the Buddha statue (representing Prince Vessantara) into the chapel.
According to local accounts, real monks are placed on a stretcher and carried by people who jump around. The monks have to hold on tight to avoid falling. The person who told me this story laughed and asked if I didn't feel sorry for the monks.
- Setting off fireworks to worship Phaya Thaen for rain (behind Wat Phon Chai)
- The ceremony of throwing away the mask of Phi Ta Khon (at Wat Phon Chai)
7:00 PM
- Buddhist chanting ceremony, recitation of the Ten Thousand Malai and Hundred Thousand Malai scriptures (at Wat Phon Chai)
Date: 8th
2:30 PM - 6:00 PM (Although the person I spoke to said 6:00 AM to evening) Sermon of Mahajati 13 Chapters (Wat Phonchai) There will be no Phi Ta Khon performance today, but it is said that if you listen to all the sermons, your wishes will be granted.
Despite my general indifference towards traditions, I have consistently found myself captivated by the magic of various cultural events throughout my life. From childhood experiences like Songkran, a widely celebrated Thai festival, to the serene practice of candlelit processions, these events have invariably left a positive impression. While I tend to avoid festivities outside of Bangkok, I remain open to the possibility of enjoying Songkran if the opportunity arises.
Translation:
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Upon embarking on my journey, the first things I encountered at these events were the palpable sense of joy and the faith that lifted my spirits. While I may not have grasped the essence of each event, such as the Phi Ta Khon festival, which I was experiencing for the first time, I could not help but be moved by the faith, belief, collaborative effort, and sheer merriment on display.
Behind the scenes of the event, various agencies and local residents worked together to ensure that the tradition was complete with faith, fun, and safety.
Our sincere gratitude to the dedicated staff and those behind the scenes who made this event possible.
There is more to it, but I have captured enough images for the facilitator and safety purposes.
The first thing we should always do when leaving the house is to 'open our minds and bodies'. Then you will feel a sense of joy when you encounter different things.
Our deepest gratitude goes out to all government and private agencies, police officers, soldiers, rescue units, and volunteers who have been working tirelessly behind the scenes to ensure the safety and well-being of everyone.
Farewell with this picture.
เดินทางตามฝัน
Friday, September 27, 2024 10:22 AM