…Returning from Nan Province at the end of July with a lingering sense of incompleteness, as I didn't have the chance to visit… what I had intended to… So, I had to "go around" again in search of what captivated me… Nan, of course… It'll be too long, so let me just say that I returned to Nan Province once more, determined to see the "Royal Medicinal Garden" of Ban San Charoen with my own eyes. This was after seeing pictures of the Royal Medicinal Garden on the "Senh Nan Today" page, which were released in July, when I was about to go. I inquired with the page, but was disappointed to learn that a 4WD vehicle was required to reach the viewpoint atop Doi Suan Ya Luang. This time, I heard that the Royal Medicinal Garden was becoming increasingly popular, with tour operators offering trips to the site. So, I took the opportunity to join one of these tours, and after looking at several options, I settled on the "Klookfoon Tour Group." This trip required me to take leave from my teaching position, as we were traveling during the week. On weekends, the site is usually fully booked, which wasn't a problem for me…
A well-maintained commuter van transported our group through the pouring rain from Bangkok, departing at 9 pm and arriving at the morning market in Nan City on Suman Thewarat Road, near the Phuka Nan Fah Hotel, for a quick bite before 6:30 am. A renowned local blood pudding soup restaurant, Lerdsin, is located there. This establishment offers congee, blood pudding soup, and kway chap. The flavors are exceptional, as expected from a long-standing restaurant that has been in operation for over 30 years.
As we sat down to eat, we discussed the day's schedule. Our plan was to ascend Doi Pha Hom Pok to witness the mist, but rain had been falling continuously since we entered Nan province. Therefore, we decided to head into the city to visit temples and then ascend to Suan Ya Luang around noon. The reason for the urgency to reach Suan Ya Luang was due to unfortunate news from Khun Kritsana, a guide from the Ban San Charoen community-based tourism group. He informed us that heavy rain throughout the night had damaged the road. Vehicles could only reach the halfway point, leaving us with the remaining distance to the homestay and the 4-5 km climb to the peak on foot. This would be necessary to capture the sunset and sunrise views. We agreed to monitor the situation and weather conditions before making a final decision.
And then walked to take pictures of Wat Phra That Chang Kham, which is located opposite the Nan National Museum, which is not far from Wat Phumin. It only takes 4-5 minutes to walk there. Due to the weather not being very cooperative, I didn't take many pictures. For the history of the temple, you can read it at this link: http://www.paiduaykan.com/76_province/north/nan/wadprathatchangkam.html
Continuing our journey, we arrived at Tha Wang Pha district to visit Wat Nong Bua, an ancient temple of the Tai Lue people. The temple's murals were painted by the same artist who created the murals of Pu Man and Ya Man at Wat Phumin. In front of the ordination hall, local elders perform traditional music to welcome tourists. A donation box reads "Please join us in preserving the traditional music of the elderly in Ban Nong Bua." Behind the ordination hall is the Community Cultural Center, where we saw elderly women working on handicrafts. I believe this is a great initiative that not only helps preserve local culture but also provides activities for the elderly.
The rain has stopped. We walked around the temple looking for photo spots. The temple has arranged many cool corners for taking pictures. The temple area is very clean. Inside the ordination hall, the art on the walls and the main Buddha statue are very beautiful. On the way back, we took a group photo with the musicians from the Nong Bua Ban band as a souvenir. For the history of the temple, you can read it at this link: History of Wat Nong Bua
...Before leaving the temple, Mr. Kritsana called to inform us that it was raining heavily in San Jareon and he was unsure if we could reach the Ya Luang Garden. He suggested a backup plan, which was to go to Phu Langka in Pong District if we couldn't make it to the Ya Luang Garden. We would also have time to visit other places along the way to Pong. Everyone agreed, although we were disappointed, as there was no better option if the road conditions and weather were obstacles. Pa Nim immediately called to book a room at Phu Langka Resort and canceled our trip to Doi Ya Luang. The next destination we would visit was Pua District, so I volunteered to be the "Pua City Guide" as I had just been there the previous month and could also visit some places I hadn't been to yet.
Shortly after leaving Wat Nong Bua, the rain started again, so we stopped by a restaurant to have lunch and wait for the rain to stop. I took my fellow travelers to eat at Baan Hua Nam Mushroom Farm. The restaurant is located on Route 1081, Pua - Nam Yao, about 5 kilometers from Pua District. This restaurant is famous for its mushrooms. I must admit that almost every mushroom dish here is delicious. I have to admit that the taste of the food is not familiar to me as a Central Thai person, but it is an unfamiliar taste in terms of deliciousness that we have never encountered before. It seems that in the food we eat, they put in local spices or herbs. For example, the papaya salad with fermented fish sauce that they put in has a strange taste, but it is really delicious. Or the chicken tom yum soup, the taste is different from what I have eaten before. But we forgot to order the restaurant's signature dish, which is mushroom pizza. Next time, we must not miss it.
After enjoying the delicious food and the beautiful view, we walked down to explore Wang Sila Lang, which is about 500 meters away from the mushroom farm. It took us no more than 20 minutes to walk there. Wang Sila Lang is considered an unseen gem of Pua. Usually, people go there to play in the water during the hot or cold seasons because the water is clearer then. During the rainy season, not many tourists go there because of the strong currents and the reddish-brown color of the water, which resembles floodwater. Your clothes would probably change color if you went in!
The name "Wang Sila Lang" comes from the shape of the rocks, which resemble cylindrical holes. The locals have always called it "Wang Bok," which later changed to "Wang Sila Lang." The reason why the rocks are cylindrical is because thousands of years ago, there was a shift in the earth's crust along the Pua fault line, which has a Y-glass shape. When the Kun River flowed through, it swirled and eroded the rocks for thousands of years, creating the cylindrical shape, or what the locals call "Wang."
When the villagers migrated to the current location of Ban Hua Nam, they built a weir to store water for agricultural use. Therefore, the Kun River, or Wang Sila Lang, has been the lifeblood of the Sila Lang sub-district for a long time.
After a light trail walk, I took the group to the Tai Lue coffee shop, a famous coffee shop in Pua. I sat and lay down, playing in the rice barn to kill time waiting for the rain to stop. Some people were looking for photo spots without fear of getting wet. Personally, I didn't take many photos because I had been here the month before.
Following the highlight requests from the students, we headed to Wat Phukhao. After the rain stopped, we immediately drove back the old way and headed to the viewpoint behind the temple. I tried to find new angles after only getting the angle from the rooftop terrace behind the temple last time. This time, I looked around and saw someone taking a high-angle shot. I turned to the bell tower on the left and immediately understood that this must be the angle. The rice fields are lush and green this month, with rice plants packed tightly throughout the fields, almost reaching waist height. A new addition to the rice fields is a pavilion surrounded by a wooden bridge, shaped like a lotus flower. It seems to be a close-up viewpoint for the rice fields and a place for meditation practitioners to walk in the evening.
After capturing some stunning aerial shots, it's time to get up close and personal with the rice paddies. Don't worry, our models are ready for their close-ups, so get ready to snap away!
Clothing Tip: Opt for vibrant colors – no need to fear the buffalo, as there are none here. Red is an excellent choice, as it creates a striking contrast against the green of the rice fields. As the saying goes, "a picture is worth a thousand words," and the photos speak for themselves.
After enjoying the rice field photography for a while, it was time to move on. This time, we had to cross the province to stay at Phu Langka Resort in Pong District, Phayao Province. We started from Pua, took the Pua-Thung Chang route, went straight for about 15 kilometers, turned left to Song Kwae District, and met a three-way intersection with Route 1148 Tha Wang Pha - Chiang Kham. We turned right to Pong District of Phayao Province. The route during this period will be winding along the mountainside. Even though there were only a few cars passing by, we drove down the mountain and saw a plain basin in front of us. There were limestone mountains, so we knew we were getting close. The road leading to the limestone mountain in front of us was so beautiful that we couldn't help but stop and take 4-5 pictures. From this point, we drove past the curve in front and up the hill a little bit, and we arrived at Phu Langka Resort.
As dusk settled upon our arrival at the resort, we ventured to explore our lodgings. Perched atop a hillside, the house offered three bedrooms, each equipped with mosquito nets draped over the beds. The absence of screens on the windows and gaps in the floor and ceiling provided ample entry points for mosquitoes, which were as large as small flies. The abundance of birds, rodents, and insects further attested to the rustic nature of the surroundings. During a bathroom break, a startled yelp escaped my lips as a mouse scurried past. This accommodation could more accurately be described as a forest dwelling or a homestay. After a simple dinner, we socialized until midnight before retiring for the night. Stepping out from the dining area, we were greeted by a sky teeming with stars, an unexpected sight given the recent storm. We each captured a few shots of the Milky Way before heading to bed.
The alarm clock did not go off in time because I woke up before the alarm every time. I looked out onto the balcony and saw the mist flowing slowly, not much. I prepared my camera equipment and walked out of the resort to the photographer's platform, which is a landmark that we see on social media. Everyone was looking for a good angle to shoot, which was actually the same angle that we had seen online. The only difference was the light and the morning mist. That morning, the light was quite low, the sky was overcast, but there was still some mist flowing in, although not as much as during the winter.
The sight of the limestone mountains before me, with the mist flowing through and then passing by, gives a strangely peaceful feeling, so much so that sometimes just sitting and looking at it is enough to make me happy.
After packing their belongings, the group enjoyed breakfast and took記念 photos at the restaurant before departing. The students donned local clothing purchased near Wat Phumin, adding a touch of authenticity to the scene.
After capturing some breathtaking photos, we continued our journey towards Phrae province, our stopover before heading back to Bangkok. Along the way, we passed through Mae Yom National Park, where the controversial Kaeng Sua Ten Dam project was once planned. However, due to strong opposition, the project was ultimately abandoned. The forest in this area appears remarkably healthy, especially the teak trees! This old road sees very little traffic, with only occasional vehicles passing by. We stopped frequently to take pictures and enjoy the scenery.
Upon arriving in Phrae City around noon, we were eager to try the local Khao Soi. After searching for a reputable Khao Soi restaurant in the city, we came across "Jek Lek Khao Soi" and decided to follow our GPS to the location. Jek Lek Khao Soi is a sizable establishment with numerous tables available. The menu offers a variety of Khao Soi options, including pork, beef, chicken, satay, and dim sum.
Before returning, we decided to stop by a temple in Phrae province to pay respects and seek blessings for a safe journey. The most famous temple in Phrae is Wat Phra That Cho Hae, and luckily, this temple also houses the Phra That for my birth year. I took this opportunity to make merit with a lottery vendor. For more information about the temple's history, please refer to the following link: http://www.paiduaykan.com/province/north/phrae/pratadchohea.html
Departing from Wat Phra That Cho Hae, I drove to Den Chai, where I vaguely recalled another beautiful temple. A quick search revealed Wat Phra That Sutone Mongkol. The distance wasn't too far, located on the岔路口leading to Lamphang. After driving for about 10 kilometers, a large reclining Buddha in Burmese style majestically appeared on a platform under construction. Entering the temple, I was captivated by the unique blend of Burmese and Lanna art. For the temple's history, please refer to this link: History of Wat Phra That Sutone Mongkol.
After leaving Wat Phra That Suthon, we headed back to Bangkok after three days of wandering around following our dreams. We ended our unplanned three-province road trip. We got on and off the bus countless times, but we enjoyed the challenges and worked together to overcome them. We would like to thank our friends from the Klook Fun group and Pa Nim for organizing the trip. We hope to have the opportunity to join another trip together in the future. Although this was my second time being disappointed about not being able to visit Suan Ya Luang, I will definitely return when it is ready.
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Friday, September 27, 2024 10:24 AM