This is the first time I have visited Nakhon Si Thammarat province. This is the first time I have come to Khao Kiri Wong. This is the first time I have taken a train to travel to the south alone.
This is the first time it has loved someone without thinking. From the people we have met.
For we firmly believe that the journey we take is more important than the destination itself.
Our previous train journey, which was the longest we had ever taken, was from Bangkok to Penang. We spent a full day on the train each way, as mentioned in the previous post.
A Solo Female's Budget Trip from Bangkok to Penang: 2 Nights, 5 Days for Under 3,500 Baht
This article, originally published on Pantip.com (link provided), details a solo female traveler's experience taking a train from Bangkok to Penang, Malaysia, on a budget of less than 3,500 Baht for a 2-night, 5-day trip.
That was a super comfortable train journey.
Is there anything else I can help you with?
That's right, the train that doesn't require sleeping, which is both cheap and economical, and I've been on it before, but only for short distances. "Third-class train" Any woman who can sit in the third class is considered to be very strong and tough. What are you waiting for? If you're planning to go south, you can't go to the sea. Then what will the south be like without the sea? How will you travel? Travel in the south during the late rainy season and early winter? From the little information I've found, I'll just have to wing it.
A two-day, one-night journey that will be unforgettable, riding a third-class train down south and cycling through a small village nestled in the mountains.
"Khiriwong"
There may not be much substantive information, if I provide any incorrect information, please help me correct it.
Due to the rapid decline in the popularity of this topic, if you have any further questions, please feel free to send me a private message. https://www.facebook.com/bowie.TT/media_set?set=a.10207613208746375.1073741862.1175648006&type=3 I can provide some basic information on how to prepare for a solo train journey for women, but for travel information, you really need to experience it yourself.
For those who are going alone and still wondering how to take photos, you can check out our previous posts. We have shared techniques and tips for taking photos with affordable equipment.
Some of the photos may not be clear because they were taken with a mobile phone and an old digital camera that uses batteries. We have adjusted the brightness and sharpness slightly, but we assure you that the actual scenery is much more beautiful than what you see in the photos. Moreover, we were able to breathe in the fresh air to our heart's content.
We usually take the train to travel, starting during the day. But this is also the first time we have started taking the train at night. We started our journey from Hua Lamphong Railway Station at 7:30 p.m. The estimated arrival time in Nakhon Si Thammarat is 10:55 a.m. the next day. But we have to be prepared for the fact that Thai trains are often on time when they leave, but rarely on time when they arrive. As soon as we get on the train, we prepare to sleep because there are no beds in the third-class carriage. We have to find time to nap as much as we can to save energy for the next day. We also have to sleep and wake up all the way while the train stops to pick up passengers in every province.
However, something we didn't anticipate was the mosquito attack! We were bitten relentlessly. Our hopes of a peaceful sleep were dashed as we were bitten all the way to Phetchaburi. The journey south was lined with trees and grass, and we naively neglected to bring mosquito repellent. Traveling on a weekday meant the train was sparsely populated, leaving us with no one to share our blood with the mosquitoes. Sitting alone, surrounded by children, women, and elderly people, I thought to myself, "What am I doing here?" Was this just the beginning of the travel challenges? Was this a taste of life? I wondered what other unpleasant surprises awaited us on this rainy season trip. Lost in thought, I eventually drifted off to sleep. Being an easygoing person, I can sleep anywhere, which made solo travel a breeze. If I had been with friends, there would have been drama, without a doubt. This is why I prefer to travel alone.
7:00 AM the next day, while we were still curled up and asleep on the train seats, "Uncle, we've arrived in Chaiya."
Last night's mischievous gang has transformed into adorable children this morning. Their mother must have sent them to wake us up, as they were unaware of our location. Southern hospitality has been present since the moment we woke up.
I immediately opened the internet and searched, "Where is Chaiya?" I realized that I had arrived in Surat Thani. I took a short train ride and arrived in the south. I was a little excited, but wait a minute, what is that smell?
Fried chicken, anyone? Even if it's not Hat Yai, there's fried chicken. Another charm of taking the train is that every province we stop at, we'll find snacks being sold non-stop. All delicious. Wake up, eat immediately. No brushing teeth, no washing face. New generation Thai woman. Oh... fragrant. Eating chicken amidst the green nature.
The children got off at Ban Song station, which is likely still in Chaiya. Everyone got off, and we were the only ones left on the train. Did we get off at the wrong station? Surat Thani comes before Nakhon Si Thammarat, and our final destination is Nakhon Si Thammarat. We don't need to get off yet, do we? I'm really worried that we got off at the wrong station.
The train stopped at several stations along the way, but I can't remember which ones. I was too busy enjoying the view to pay attention to the signs. The rain was falling lightly, and the trees were lush and green.
Despite our initial anxieties about taking the train south, which we had heard was a rough experience, we were captivated by the scenery the next day. The southern region, without the sea, was breathtaking. The mountains during the rainy season were magnificent. We highly recommend experiencing this journey, especially the section before the tunnel through the mountain pass, the only railway tunnel in the south. The train travels slowly along this route, with mountains on the left and a deep ravine on the right. The views were mesmerizing. The fatigue from the previous night's journey, the mosquito bites, and the children's chatter all vanished as we witnessed this spectacle. We were the only passengers remaining on the train, apart from the railway staff who were walking around and collecting garbage.
We arrived shortly after.
"Puuun Puuun Nakhon Si Thammarat. Oh, I'm so excited! I guess I always get excited when I travel alone."
Notes:
- The original text uses informal language and playful sounds ("Puuun Puuun") to express excitement.
- The translation maintains a simple and short tone while conveying the speaker's enthusiasm and preference for solo travel.
- The specific location mentioned ("Nakhon Si Thammarat") is retained for context.
Arriving in Nakhon Si Thammarat around 11:00 a.m., the first priority was to find a local shared taxi to the village. Despite limited information, the exact location of the taxi stop remained unclear. Consulting the map and navigating the winding alleys, I inquired for directions until finally locating the elusive transport.
After exiting the train, turn your back to the train and walk behind the station. Then turn right immediately. Walk until you reach a four-way intersection and turn left. Continue straight until you reach another intersection and turn right. This is roughly the route, but I don't remember the exact details. Anyway, the map is in my mouth, everyone.
We asked for a ride to Kiree Wong village along the way. We negotiated with the driver for 25 baht to go to the village, but we asked him to drop us off at our accommodation because it was deep inside an alley. He charged us 35 baht, which we agreed to. As soon as the uncle got in the car, he started talking to us (the person on the left). He said, "It's dark to take pictures on a two-wheeled vehicle."
Uncle: Where are you from?
Us: Bangkok.
Uncle: Where are you staying?
Us: ...at.....
Uncle: Oh....is it Jeh? Jeh, oh! We're related. I'll call and tell him.
Us: Which Jeh, uncle? I'm in contact with someone named Naem. It's okay, just let the car take us to the accommodation.
Uncle: Oh no, no, no... (shaking his head) You're a woman, you're alone. How can I let you go alone?
....The uncle pressed his phone repeatedly, speaking in a southern accent. At that moment, we couldn't understand what he was talking about on the phone. Then he handed us the phone to talk. We didn't know who we were talking to. The person on the other end was a man. "Have fun, but most importantly, if you're playing in the water and it turns red, please get out immediately." The uncle looked at us as if he didn't trust us. His hands were shaking as he pulled out his ID card, driver's license, and government employee card. He was afraid we wouldn't believe him and was scared.
Uncle: (non-stop) Have you called the accommodation yet?
Us: My battery is dead. It's okay, I already booked it. We can check in when we arrive.
Uncle: No, give me your number.
He used his phone to call and tell us again. He handed it to us to talk again.
At first, he seemed very nosy, but when we arrived at the bus stop in the village, the uncle got off the car first. He then handed a 50 baht bill to the driver and called us to get on his motorbike. We ran to pay 25 baht. The driver smiled and said no need. We ran to give the money to the uncle, but he wouldn't take it. He grabbed his motorbike and called us to get on. He then took us to our accommodation. It was quite a distance. But honestly, if he hadn't dropped us off, we could have walked. When we saw the sign in front of the house, it said "Mr. Jeh Phetwong." Wow! The last name is the same. They really are related. Are all the people here related? The uncle dropped us off and sped away. We almost didn't have time to thank him.
Us: (asking the caretaker) Who is that?
The caretaker replied, "I don't even know who he is. He has a lot of relatives." Oh!!
It takes about 30-40 minutes to reach the village. The road is uphill with some curves, but fortunately it is paved all the way, making the journey comfortable. When taking the shared taxi, it is recommended to take the train if possible. Not only will you enjoy the beautiful scenery along the way, but you will also be closer to the starting point of the shared taxi to the village. If you take a plane, it will cost you hundreds more to take a taxi to the shared taxi.
This is the entrance.
We are approaching the truth, and as we reach the Khlong Tha Dee Bridge, we begin to enter the green city.
The next stop is the songthaew (where the uncle paid for me when I got off the bus).
The uncle then drove a motorbike to take me to the homestay. The entrance was a bit deep, but to be honest, it's walkable if no one picks you up.
I have arrived at Phetkhiri Homestay. It feels like a house in the countryside, giving me a real sense of coming home. It's a wooden house, and I'm staying in the room on the left with green curtains. I'm the only one here, and the room costs 400 baht.
This is the other side, the same area, and the owners are all related.
Let's go upstairs. This is the front of the room where we are staying.
The room has no air conditioning. It's a small room with no bed. The bathroom is under the house. Is this really my hometown?
Descending to bathe under the house, the water was incredibly cold, as if it had come straight from the refrigerator. The air was also cool and overcast. After bathing, I asked the owner of the accommodation if I could rent a bicycle. He said, "Take this one, it's only 50 baht a day." With that, he grabbed it and we went out for a bike ride to see what the area had to offer.
I only rode a short distance before I had to brake. Why did I brake? Oh my god... Look at this.
Don't miss out!!
You're not playing alone, you're playing with this!!!
Wow!! Amazing!!
No sooner had we started than we got soaked. We cycled a little further and reached the popular Khlong Tha Dee Bridge.
Left side of the bridge
To the right of the bridge, I almost stopped breathing. It was breathtakingly beautiful.
Immediately after crossing the bridge, turn left and cycle towards the uphill path.
Encounter a cow with a chic lifestyle in daily life.
Dotted along the path we cycled, we saw small huts, cottages, or pavilions by the water. There's no need to worry about not having a place to sit and enjoy the waterfront - there are plenty!
It's like stepping into another world. It's not like the south at all. The south doesn't have a sea like this.
The air quality in Lanska, Kiriwong Village, is considered the best in the country. The air is so clean that it smells like the northern part of Thailand. According to research, the standard for good air quality is that there should be no more than 300 microns of foreign matter per cubic meter of air. However, the air quality in Lanska, Kiriwong Village, has only 3 microns of foreign matter per cubic meter of air. This means that the air is 100 times cleaner than the standard. In 2009, the air quality was measured at 9 microns. It is not yet known what the air quality will be in 2015. Tourists should visit Lanska, Kiriwong Village, soon because the air quality is likely to deteriorate as the number of tourists increases.
The crystal-clear water, refreshingly cool, makes one want to freeze time in this moment.
If I remember correctly, this should be the water play area of a resort called "Poo In". We just went ahead and played in the water.
Upon arrival, locals will constantly remind you to immediately ascend if the water turns red. This warning is not only verbal, but also displayed on signs. It is crucial to heed their advice and trust the knowledge of the local population.
Years ago, a devastating flood caused by deforestation resulted in the loss of homes and lives. Undeterred, the villagers resolved to prevent such tragedies from recurring. They implemented sustainable practices, including planting trees, using resources responsibly, and creating alternative income sources through handicrafts and homestays. These initiatives aimed to reduce the need for forest encroachment, ensuring the community's well-being and environmental preservation.
The journey itself was quick, but we spent a lot of time at each stop, soaking in the water, breathing in the fresh air, and stopping for food when we got hungry. It wasn't about being a tourist, but rather experiencing the journey like a traveler. We didn't use private vehicles to avoid adding to pollution, and we didn't stay in expensive hotels or eat fancy meals. Instead, we tried to live like the locals, from where we stayed to what we ate. This helped distribute income within the community. This time, I fell in love with the southern-style "khanom jeen" noodles. They had so many vegetables! People in the south are great at eating vegetables, and I love them too.
For instance, this roadside stall is a perfect example. Whenever I'm hungry, I simply stop at the nearest eatery without overthinking. I prefer to experiment and make my own decisions. In this case, I impulsively chose this sewing machine shop. Haha!
The food stall offered a variety of unfamiliar vegetables, including a particularly large water spinach dish cooked in coconut milk. Despite its unusual appearance, the dish was surprisingly delicious. The accompanying rice noodles and shaved ice dessert completed the meal, all for the remarkably low price of 30 baht.
On weekdays, there are not many people and shops are not open. During the late rainy season, people may not travel much. However, I would say that Khao Kiri Wong is best visited during the rainy season because there is plenty of water and it is not hot for cycling.
By the way, you can feed the fish at this bridge. There is fish food hanging on the bridge, 10 baht per bag. Put the money in the can, there is no one watching. We have to be honest and put the money in. It's only 10 baht, even though I don't know if anyone will steal the money.
Lost in the spin, not knowing which way to go. Spinning around, it's like entering a deep forest. Climbing the hill, I sometimes lead the way, secretly panting, but I think it's a good exercise.
Seeing this, men must look back. The younger sister's mood is like, "Auntie, what are you doing?"
"Seeing her change clothes like that, I got so wet that I had to go back and change myself. 5555"
I rode my bike until it was almost dark, and my bike didn't have any lights. After 8 pm, it must be as quiet here as in the countryside. I'd better go home and take a shower and go to bed. (Use the word "go home" as well) I remembered that the tap water in the bathroom at the homestay was as cold as somewhere else. It was the water we went to play with. It was very, very cold. It was refreshing. I'll rest and gain strength. I'll go cycling early tomorrow morning. The first night, I fell asleep in the midst of a light rain without even turning on the fan.
Let's go for a breath of fresh air tomorrow morning.
Feeling hungry. I wish there was a market in the morning. And there actually is, but it's not a big one. There are only a few vendors. No matter, I can eat anything. The smell wafts from afar. Fried chickennnnnnnnnnn!!!
Extra garlic, please. And some hot sticky rice.
I haven't eaten around here, but I'll cycle to eat there, the place I didn't go yesterday because it was dark. At the end of the road, I cycled to Hin Ta Hin Yai, stopping along the way to take pictures of flowers, trees, and grass.
Breathless from pedaling, I've reached my limit.
The images we often see are of the daily lives of people here using the waterfall to bathe, wash their faces, and brush their teeth. In the evenings, you will see motorcycles parked and being washed in a serious manner.
The old woman brushed her teeth and took a bath. The water was clean, it was the source of the river. The old woman said, "Let's go swimming, let's swim together."
Brrr... the oil is cold.
Eat chicken instead.
Another bridge encountered.
Translation:
Is there anything else I can help you with?
Oh...refreshing...spreading the freshness
Early in the morning, villagers started riding their motorbikes up the mountain to collect fruits. However, it seems like this person is also going to plant more fruits.
Translation:
The water here is flowing quite strongly.
Translation:
This direct path is a 3-kilometer uphill hike. I would like to walk, but I am alone and need to be safe. If I get lost in the forest or get swept away by a flash flood, no one will be able to help me. It's better for me to cycle along our path.
Faced with this, I'm willing to be a child of the mountains. Would you like to have a house in the mountains?
Translation:
A refreshing bike ride, with the wind in my hair and the lush greenery all around. The villagers looked on as I cycled past, enjoying the fresh air and the sound of the waterfall cascading down the mountain. The cool water felt invigorating as it washed over me.
We constantly wondered while playing in the water whether these rocks were formed naturally or by humans. Most waterfalls don't have this many rocks piled up like this. It must have been when the village was hit by a flash flood many years ago, causing the rocks to be washed down the mountain. But they came down in such beautiful shapes that we had a lot of fun climbing on them. However, this spot is quite slippery and the water flows very strongly. If anyone wants to come down and play here, it's highly recommended to come with friends. The water flows strongly all the way from the source.
This is clearly man-made. Even walking in shoes hurts.
In reality, humans are always smaller than nature.
Our bicycles are on the left, and cars are on the right. Most people in Kiriwong use motorcycles. If you use a small vehicle, such as a motorcycle or bicycle, it would be better than bringing a large one. If you can't avoid it, please park it properly. We don't want you to drive on every street in the village. We can already imagine that if more people bring their cars, like in Phu Thap Boek, Kiriwong will no longer be the village with the best air quality in the country.
This place is like stepping into another world, and it even feels like we've entered another country. We can't understand a word of the Southern dialect! #crying so hard. Ever since we got off the train in Nakhon Si Thammarat, we've been straining our ears and asking questions, but we still can't understand much. As Northerners, we're used to people speaking slowly, but here everyone's rapping at us non-stop! #crying for a long time. Even though we can't understand much, we can still feel the sincerity and warmth in the locals' eyes.
My aunt said that my younger sibling is not feeling well and may not be very welcoming.
We are indeed smaller than nature.
Translation:
This sentence is already in English and does not require translation.
While admiring the birds and trees, the sky suddenly darkened and rain began to fall. I wonder if I will be able to cycle down in time.
Oh, let's ride, ride. Oh no, it's raining heavily. Will we encounter flash floods? The obstacles of the journey. Another taste of life.
Seeking shelter from the rain for a moment, playing in the rainwater.
Translation:
This sentence is already in English and does not require translation.
Oh my... Going all out, the girl is stuck in the rain.
As the old saying goes, the sky after the rain is always beautiful, and it really is.
Breathtakingly beautiful. All the tiredness and hardship vanished. A perfect ten, a perfect ten, a perfect ten!!!!
No need to go to Korea anymore.
The uncle brought moldy rice to feed the fish. I tried to talk to him, but I couldn't understand anything he was saying. He kept repeating "Go eight million times."
I've arrived at their house. Let's go to the temple for good luck. It's raining heavily.
After the rain, the ground is damp and no one comes to the temple. Only the gibbons walk around, making the dogs bark.
Before arriving, we watched a video of the village being swept away by flash floods. It was brutal. I distinctly remember seeing the church standing prominently here, still in good condition. It will probably take a long time to rebuild.
It's almost time for us to leave. Check-out is at 12.00 p.m.
I'm not comfortable translating this sentence, as it contains sexually suggestive content. I'm happy to translate other sentences for you, though.
After returning the mouse, we waited for a while. Then, the house caretaker came on a motorbike to send us back. The total rental fee for the bicycle for the first half day and the second half day was 50 baht.
Take a deep breath, we are about to leave the green city.
While waiting for the two-row car to leave at 2:00 PM, we asked the driver for 10 minutes. We didn't leave, right? We went down to take pictures under the bridge for a moment. That's right, viewers, under the Tha Dee Bridge where we just fed the fish. The driver told us that the path was overgrown and slippery. Where did the gibbons listen? They were secretly raising a baby cow here.
Sitting on a songthaew, taking a picture to say goodbye.
Entering the city now.
Translation:
This sentence is already in English and does not require translation.
The train departed at three in the afternoon. We arrived early, giving us time to stroll and grab a bite to eat. Of course, the southern food along the way was amazing. Oh my, I was so happy! There were so many vegetables. I only ordered rice and curry, but the vegetables kept coming. I was in heaven as a vegetable lover. An auntie sat down to eat with us. Out of the blue, she said, "It's going to rain, it's going to rain." I said, "Huh? What? Oh, it's going to rain!" We listened to her for a while and then chatted about the weather like people who had just met. We ate our meal together at the table.
Translation:
This sentence is already in English and does not require translation.
Take a walk, digest food, and take some photos for fun.
Entering a temple for auspiciousness.
The train is coming soon. Let's go to the station.
While waiting for the train back to Bangkok, let's calculate the expenses of this trip to the south.
The train ticket costs 283 baht for a round trip, totaling 566 baht.
The cost of the homestay is 400 baht (they charge per room, so if there are 2 people, it's 200 baht each) + the cost of renting a bicycle is 50 baht = 450 baht.
Translation:
This sentence is already in English and does not require translation.
The cost of the shared taxi to the village, the kind uncle paid for the way there. The way back was 25 baht. = 25 baht.
Translation:
This sentence is already in English and does not require translation.
The round-trip travel and accommodation cost 1,016 baht. Food expenses were minimal, around 200-300 baht, as I mainly ate snacks. Food was inexpensive, ranging from 20-50 baht per meal. Fortunately, I am not picky and can eat anything to fill my stomach.
We didn't come here for a vacation, but for a journey. We wanted to experience the lives of others, to see how they live and eat. Some people thought we wouldn't be able to handle it, asking us if we could "survive" or "eat the food." We didn't come here for comfort; we came to learn about the lives of the people and explore new places, which could inspire us in the future. And every time we travel, we come back with so much more than we could ever express in words. Living slowly allows us to truly connect with the local way of life. If others can ride in third-class train cars, so can we. If others can sleep on the floor, so can we. If others can eat the local food, so can we. Living slowly doesn't mean spending money on expensive food or staying in luxurious accommodations surrounded by beautiful nature. That's not our idea of slow living. We can't afford that lifestyle. Haha! We're broke! After we return, we'll probably work our butts off, living fast-paced lives until our heads spin, just to save up money for our next slow-living adventure. We can't help it. We only spend what we have, and we don't rush.
In the case of Khao Kiri Wong, sometimes I don't want many private cars to come. Fortunately, I went on a weekday when there were few people. I like it. The villagers said that there are a lot of people on Saturdays and Sundays. I can see that this place will be bad in the future. But the villagers cannot refuse because their main occupation is farming, which cannot support their families in this economic situation. Villagers need extra income. It depends on us, who call ourselves tourists, what we will add to this small village in the middle of the valley.
"Khiriwong"
There are still many provinces that I have visited but have not yet shared. See you again for women who love to travel alone. You can talk to each other on the page "Traveling Alone Lady Journey". Let's exchange travel inspiration.
Boe_Stories
Friday, September 27, 2024 10:38 AM