The third highest mountain in the country, at 2,225 meters, is also the highest campsite. This alone is challenging enough to give it a try. For nature lovers, it is a must to see the beauty of this place. After watching for a while, this year I finally had the opportunity to get to know one of the most popular nature trails in our country.
It is important to note that Doi Luang Chiang Dao Wildlife Sanctuary in Chiang Dao District, Chiang Mai Province, is only open to visitors from November 1st to March 31st. The maximum number of people allowed to stay overnight is 150 per day. Therefore, it is necessary to book in advance. Nowadays, there are many tours organized from both Bangkok and local areas, but I prefer to go on my own. The process is actually very simple.
Call 053-456-623 and inform the staff of your desired date, number of nights, number of people, preferred ascent and descent routes, and the number of porters required. Once confirmed, send an email to [email protected] to finalize the booking.
While "easy" refers to the method, it's uncertain whether the date you choose will be easy as well. If it's fully booked, that's the end of it. To avoid problems, I opted for a trip in early November. The crowds were smaller, and it was a weekday (Tuesday, Wednesday, or Thursday). As a result, a single contact with the district office about two weeks before the trip was all it took to arrange everything smoothly.
Two nights, six people, ascending from Den Hin Ngad, descending to Pang Wua. Transportation to and from Chiang Dao district is required. Two porters (each carrying 20 kilograms). I will summarize the costs at the end.
The truth is, when I booked the trip, only my friend and I were confirmed members. We planned to find more friends to share the cost of transportation and porters later. Nowadays, it's incredibly easy to find travel companions on social media. In no time, we had a full group of six people. Traveling with new friends like this is really cool.
(1)
Our journey began at Mo Chit Bus Terminal, where the six of us had booked a 6:30 PM bus to Ban Tha Ton operated by the Transport Co. Ltd. (BKS). We opted for the P.1 class, which cost 533 baht per person. For those seeking a more luxurious experience, VIP seats were also available. Alternatively, budget-conscious travelers could opt for the free train to Chiang Mai and then take a connecting bus to Chiang Dao. However, this method would be time-consuming and could potentially impact our ascent to the mountain.
Despite the Meteorological Department's announcement of an incoming monsoon during our visit, we pressed on, undeterred by the potential risks.
The rain fell intermittently throughout the journey, as predicted. At 6:30 am, the car arrived at Chiang Dao district and parked in front of the Chiang Dao Inn. Our shuttle was waiting for us. We threw our belongings into the car and headed straight to the market to stock up on supplies.
The most crucial item for conquering Chiang Dao is drinking water, as there are no water sources on the mountain. We purchased four packs of large 1.5-liter bottles and one pack of small bottles to carry while hiking, as well as some fresh food for cooking on the summit.
The bus then took us to the district office to register, pay various fees, and leave a 100 baht garbage deposit each. It didn't take long. If anyone wanted to use the bathroom or shower, they could do so.
We will meet the porters here. Each porter carries 20 kilograms for 450 baht per person per day. The porters here carry relatively little. My water pack weighs 9 kilograms, and one person carrying two water packs is almost at their quota. So I negotiated with him to increase it to 25 kilograms, focusing on food because I don't have to carry it down. I paid an extra 40 baht per kilogram, and we both agreed.
The wheels started rolling again at 8:30 AM, this time heading towards the Khun Huai Mae Kok Ranger Station, also known as Den Ya Khat, one of the two hiking trails up Doi Luang Chiang Dao. The gravel road was quite bumpy, taking almost two hours from the park headquarters.
At this point, we must hike 8.5 kilometers, which is 2 kilometers longer than the Pang Wa route, but it is easier and less steep. The elevation at Den Hin Chat is around 1,450 meters, while Pang Wa is only 1,150 meters. The scenery is more beautiful, and even though it was a weekday, there were quite a few tourists. We packed our belongings and set off.
Before setting off, I reminded everyone of the concept for walking with new friends: "First group to reach the last group." This is because we have a lot of members who like to take breaks and soak in the scenery (laughs...).
The claim that walking on short grass is comfortable seems to be true. The air is fresh, with occasional drizzle, and the lush greenery on both sides of the path is a sight to behold. After months of exploring forests during the rainy season, I must admit that I have developed a preference for the ethereal beauty of white skies and light mist over bright, sunny days.
Hiking at a leisurely pace, we stopped to rest and enjoy the packed lunch we had brought along. As we continued our journey, we encountered the star of Doi Luang Chiang Dao, the beautiful parrot flower (Impatiens psittacina). This endemic species blooms briefly during the late rainy season and early winter. When viewed from the side, the flower resembles a bird spreading its wings. We also admired the abundance of other wildflowers in the area.
Around 1 p.m., we arrived at a three-way intersection, the meeting point of the Pang Wua and Den Ya Khat trails. This marks the halfway point, and from here on, there is only one path, which becomes increasingly steep for those who ascended via the Ya Khat trail. Those who came from Pang Wua, however, have already endured the steep climb. (laughter...)
The trail was indeed steep, especially the final stretch before reaching the campsite. However, it wasn't overly challenging, and we managed it comfortably. We walked, rested, took photos, and chatted along the way. People passed us in groups of two or three, maintaining the concept of the first group reaching the campsite before the last group.
After a journey that began at 10:50 AM, we finally arrived at our destination, the Ang Slung campsite, at 4:45 PM. Located at an altitude of approximately 2,050 meters, we managed to make good time despite our leisurely pace.
Scattered across the open space were several tent sites, ranging from large clearings to smaller patches along the forest edge. Our porter team had thoughtfully reserved a suitable spot for our group, and once everyone arrived, we worked together to set up our home for the next two nights.
The toilet facilities at Doi Luang Chiang Dao are pit toilets. Park rangers have set up makeshift privacy screens using tarps, similar to emergency toilets. Visitors are advised to bring their own wet wipes or other cleaning supplies.
Due to the thick fog covering the entire mountain, we decided to stay put and cook together. Our main dish was instant noodles, accompanied by boiled eggs and stir-fried vegetables. This turned out to be the highlight of our camping trip, filled with laughter and camaraderie. Strangers became friends, bonding over a simple meal in the wilderness.
That night, we sat around playing games and laughing until about nine o'clock (with staff and vendors joining in the fun). Suddenly, the rain started pouring down relentlessly. We held out for a while, but eventually had to take refuge in our tents, listening to the sound of the rain as our lullaby for the night.
(2)
Heavy rain fell throughout the night, just as the Meteorological Department had predicted. My hopes of watching the sunrise were dashed. When I emerged from my tent in the morning, thick fog blanketed the entire area.
We ate bread, shredded pork, jam, milk, and leftover rice from yesterday to fill our stomachs. We decided that no matter what, we would go sightseeing today. There were two major viewpoints: the top of Doi Luang and the top of Kiw Lom. In the first half of the morning, we chose to go to Kiw Lom first. The first part was a grassy hillside before cutting into the forest on a steep uphill path. The path was extremely slippery from the heavy rain, making it quite a struggle.
I trailed behind my friends for a bit because I spent some time with these things. It was so refreshing.
Upon reaching the ridge, there is a fork in the path leading to the northern and southern peaks of Kiew Lom. We headed north first, gradually ascending as the sky began to clear. The intermittent patches of fog drifting by created a refreshingly scenic atmosphere.
Besides the mist, there are many beautiful wildflowers here. We found them all along the way from Den Hin Ngad to Ang Slung, but especially at Kiew Lom Nuea, they were truly beautiful. We had a great time taking pictures.
The wind at the peak is not much lower than at Doi Luang. From this point, you can see the peak of Doi Luang and the Ang Salung tent site at the foot of the mountain. Our tent and the bathroom are there. At this height, you can see everything. (Haha…)
At eleven o'clock, we descended from the northern wind gap to the southern wind gap. When we arrived, the sky was overcast, so we decided to have lunch instead, as our stomachs were starting to growl. Hiking and climbing mountains like this uses up a lot of energy.
We were leisurely relaxing at the tent when the rain poured down again for about half an hour. However, after the rain stopped, the weather started to show signs of improvement. The officers said that judging from the sky, the sky would probably be clear in the late afternoon. Hearing that, our spirits were lifted a lot. When the clock ticked to three in the afternoon, we decided that it was time to climb to the top of the mountain.
The fog still covered the peak before we started our ascent, but as we climbed higher, the view gradually improved, just as the park ranger had promised. The air began to clear, revealing a breathtaking and refreshing panorama. We couldn't resist taking numerous photos.
After approximately 45 minutes, we finally reached the summit of Doi Luang Chiang Dao, the third highest peak in Thailand at 2,225 meters.
In the blink of an eye, as I was taking photos, my gaze caught a glimpse of... the sky clearing.
Oh... I don't know what language to exclaim in. The thick fog has dissipated, revealing a breathtaking sea of mist (rain). It's as if we're standing in heaven. What are you waiting for? Start clicking! Every angle is beautiful, every corner is stunning, every perspective is breathtaking.
It's hard to describe, so let the photos do the talking. (Haha...)
The night before, the rain continued to fall intermittently. We woke up to a refreshing blanket of white mist. We had our last meal together and prepared provisions for lunch on the way. We packed our belongings and collected our garbage. Everything we brought up, we had to take back down.
The descent was steep but slippery, and we had to measure the ground several times according to the regulations. When we reached the descent to Pang Wa, which was said to be a difficult challenge, it was indeed arduous. Heavy rain for several days had made the path muddy and slippery, like walking on a mudslide. It was so bad that I had to put my camera away in my bag and couldn't take a single picture. It was that difficult, you can imagine (laughs…).
Around 1:30 PM, we arrived at the parking lot near Pang Wua. A car was waiting to take us to the district office, where we could shower, change clothes, and then be dropped off in front of the Chiang Dao Inn. This concluded our trip.
As I scrolled through the photos I had taken atop Doi Luang Chiang Dao on the drive back to Bangkok, a smile spread across my face. I couldn't find the words to describe the beauty we had witnessed. "So beautiful," "magnificent," "truly stunning," "the most beautiful" - these phrases only captured a fraction of the feeling. It was like looking at a photograph that could never truly convey the breathtaking reality.
And I couldn't help but wonder, "Have I ascended to heaven?"
Travel expenses for Doi Luang Chiang Dao (excluding travel from Bangkok and meals)
Entrance Fees and Charges
- Entrance fee: 20 Baht per person
- Vehicle fee: 50 Baht per vehicle
- Camping fee: 30 Baht per tent per night
- Porter fee (20 kg): 450 Baht per person per day (counted from the day of ascent to descent)
- Transportation fee:
- Park Headquarters - Den Huai Chat: 1,200 Baht per trip
- Park Headquarters - Pang Wua: 600 Baht per trip
- Park Headquarters - Chiang Dao Market: 100 Baht per round trip
- Garbage deposit: 100 Baht per person (refundable upon returning garbage to the bottom)
Our six-person trip cost approximately 1,300 baht per person, including food but excluding bus fare.
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นายสองสามก้าว / A Life, A Traveller
Friday, October 4, 2024 3:01 PM