Ban Laem District, Phetchaburi: What comes to mind when this district is mentioned? Those who can recall it will immediately recognize it, while those who cannot may be left speechless or, worse, ask where it is located on the map of Thailand.
Ban Laem is a salt-producing region located on the coast of the Gulf of Thailand. However, the area's coastline is not as aesthetically pleasing as other destinations, leading leisure travelers to bypass it in favor of southern locations like Cha-am and Hua Hin. Consequently, Ban Laem often serves as a mere stopover point, receiving less tourist attention than its resources and attractions warrant.
Recently, I had a trip that might change everyone's perspective on Ban Laem. I received a call from a photographer friend who informed me about a newly opened charming resort called Fisherman's Villa Sea View, located near the Ban Laem beachfront. The resort invited me to visit and capture some photos of the area. This was an exciting opportunity, as Ban Laem is a place I hold dear. I have visited the Laem Phak Bia bird sanctuary countless times, but I have never stayed overnight.
Two days, one night, taking her to Ban Laem. That's how it all started.
(1)
From Bangkok to Phetchaburi, there are two main routes. The first route, which I jokingly call the "front of the house" route, follows Rama II Road (Highway 35) until it reaches Wang Manao Intersection, where it turns left onto Phetkasem Road (Highway 4) and passes through Khao Yoi District before entering Phetchaburi city. The second route, which I call the "back of the house" route, turns left onto Rural Road So. 2021 at the 72nd kilometer of Rama II Road in Samut Songkhram Province, following the signs for the shortcut to Cha-am. This route connects with Rural Roads Pob. 4012 and Pob. 4028 and passes through Ban Laem District. There are several roads that connect to the city center at various points along this route, but they are not major highways. Hence, I refer to it as the "back of the house" route.
In terms of speed, the front road is significantly faster due to its status as a major highway with a shorter distance. However, the back road offers a more relaxing driving experience with scenic views and diverse landscapes. For those who are not in a hurry, the back road provides a more enjoyable journey.
To reach Ban Laem, the most convenient route is SS.2021. However, on this trip, I wanted to make a quick detour to Khao Wang, a landmark in Phetchaburi. So, I decided to take the main road and then loop back to Ban Laem. (If you're not going to Khao Wang, there are many other places to visit in Phetchaburi city, such as Tham Khao Luang, Wang Ban Pun, and various temples.)
There are two ways to reach the top of Khao Wang in Phetchaburi: walking or taking the electric funicular. I've always walked up the mountain in the past, but this time I decided to try the funicular. After parking my car, I rushed to buy a ticket. The ticket price for Thai adults is 70 baht, which includes 50 baht for the funicular ride and 20 baht for the entrance fee.
Khao Wang, officially known as Phra Nakhon Khiri Historical Park, is under the administration of the Fine Arts Department. It served as a temporary palace for King Rama IV and has a history spanning over 150 years. The summit boasts stunning views, historical significance, and a serene, verdant atmosphere.
The area is characterized by its abundance of frangipani trees, which create a stunning spectacle when in full bloom.
Khao Wang consists of three peaks. The first peak houses various royal buildings, including the National Museum of Phra Nakhon Khiri. The second peak is home to the Phra That Chom Phet, a large white stupa that has existed for a long time and was later restored during the construction of Khao Wang.
The last child is the location of Wat Phra Kaew Noi.
This temple serves as the main temple of Khao Wang. Visitors can explore the temple independently. However, it is important to be cautious of the wild monkeys.
Do not carry food with you under any circumstances.
After exploring Khao Wang, I indulged in my favorite local delicacy, fried fish cakes with rice noodles, at Nuch Tod Mun restaurant. Conveniently located opposite Wat Khoi, the restaurant offers easy parking within the temple grounds. Its proximity to Khao Wang makes it an ideal stop after a visit to the hilltop attraction.
The taste is subjective, but the deep-fried fish cakes here are known for their dryness and fragrant aroma of holy basil. Paired with rice noodles and a drizzle of fish cake dipping sauce, this dish is a personal favorite. The recipe has been passed down for over five decades, ensuring its authenticity and legacy.
The shop is open from 10 am to 3 pm, closed on Wednesdays and Thursdays. Come and try our recipe and see if you like it. (Haha...)
Okay, after sightseeing and eating, it's time to check in at Fisherman's Villa Sea View. The route from Phetchaburi town to Ban Laem is easy. Just follow the signs to Chao Samran Beach. When you reach the roundabout before entering the beach, turn left towards Ban Laem district.
Fisherman's Villa Sea View is located in Ban Bang Kaeo. If you are driving on the same road as me, it will be about 7 kilometers past the Laem Phak Bia project. When you reach the Bang Kaeo viewpoint, slow down and prepare to turn right into the alley. The resort is just a few tens of meters away. There is a sign indicating the way.
Nestled in Baan Laem, this charming accommodation boasts an enchanting European cartoon village aesthetic. Surrounded by a vibrant tapestry of real and artificial flowers, it offers a whimsical escape. Having recently opened in mid-2017, it promises a delightful experience.
The accommodations are divided into two sections: converted townhouses and detached houses in a garden. We stayed in a townhouse on the upper floor. The starting price for a room is a little over two thousand baht.
This is our room, spacious and very comfortable. The stairs down to the lower room have a connecting room door, which can be rented as a pair if you come as a family.
Everything is ready.
Simple kitchenware set, easy to use with a microwave, even a washing machine.
The resort is designed to accommodate long-term international guests, and the bathrooms are equipped with bathtubs.
The lower floor features a Jacuzzi on the front porch.
This is a detached house-style room. The room is smaller but has a beautiful atmosphere in the middle of a flower garden. Girls who come to stay here can take full advantage of the scenery to take pictures. There are double beds and single beds to choose from, and the colors of the decoration are different.
This resort boasts a stunning beachfront location, offering breathtaking views of the sea. However, it's important to note that the beach here is a mudflat, not a sandy beach suitable for swimming. Nevertheless, the resort provides a delightful alternative with its saltwater swimming pool, complete with a heating system for added comfort. Guests can enjoy a relaxing dip while admiring the scenic vistas. Additionally, there are designated relaxation zones and a pavilion by the sea, offering a tranquil escape.
When asked about the resort's most outstanding feature, the answer is undoubtedly its tranquility. As a smoke-free and alcohol-free resort (although they are currently developing a new zone in Aulum Alui where light drinking will be permitted), it is a perfect haven for those seeking peace and quiet, like ourselves.
Free bicycles are available for use, making it an ideal location for evening exercise rides.
Another advantage is the lack of an on-site restaurant. This may seem surprising, but it allows the resort to actively engage with and support the local community. Breakfast consists of locally sourced food, while lunch and dinner can be enjoyed at nearby restaurants or ordered for delivery to the resort. This approach benefits the local population, providing them with additional income opportunities. The opening of the resort has directly increased their earnings, making this concept highly commendable.
As dusk settled, the sky was rather overcast. However, after dinner, the clouds cleared, revealing a clear sky. The atmosphere was incredibly pleasant, with stars twinkling both in the sea and above.
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A trip to the beach in Phetchaburi requires an early wake-up call. The eastern coast offers stunning sunrises, making it impossible to sleep in. The wind was particularly strong that morning, but it was a magical experience nonetheless. Despite having visited countless beaches, this was only the second time in my life that I witnessed the sun rise from the horizon, emerging directly from the sea rather than behind the clouds. It was breathtakingly beautiful.
The following is a translation of the provided text from Thai to English:
"Around seven o'clock, we had a simple breakfast of shrimp congee, deep-fried dough sticks with condensed milk, steamed buns, and various breads. As mentioned earlier, all of these were purchased from shops in Bang Kaew village by the resort."
The reason we need to have breakfast early is because we have a birdwatching appointment. We wouldn't want to miss this opportunity, especially since we're at Bang Laem, a renowned birdwatching destination. Just a few kilometers from Fisherman's Villa Sea View, there's an exceptional spot for observing birds in the mangroves. It's located at Ban Pak Thale, opposite Wat Pak Thale Nok (you'll see the ongoing construction of the boat-shaped Ubosot). Look for the birdwatching sign and drive in.
The birdwatching spot at Ban Pak Thale is located near the salt fields. December is the peak season for migratory birds, and we weren't the only ones there. Several groups of experienced foreign birdwatchers were also in the vicinity. Judging by their equipment, we readily conceded defeat (laughs...).
We walked along the red dirt road, watching the birds, until we reached the sea. However, the villagers asked us not to walk up the salt field embankment, as it could cause it to collapse. Several foreigners who walked in unknowingly had to call out and use sign language to get out. Please be mindful of this.
A 250mm lens can only capture what it can see, but birdwatching is still enjoyable. Stilts, waders, gulls, and small terns were observed at Bang Pu Recreation Center.
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Surprisingly, I saw a flock of more than ten comb ducks. This type of bird is abundant in the zoo, but seeing them foraging in the wild brought a wider smile than any other species.
Gazing at the birds from afar, enjoying the moment until around nine o'clock, then returning to the resort. Today, the sun is shining and the sky is much clearer than yesterday, making the resort even more charming.
And she did not miss soaking comfortably in the pool, how happy she was.
We checked out at noon and grabbed a quick bite nearby. After waiting for our stomachs to settle, we headed to "Kang Huntong," a five-star OTOP spa salt product manufacturer located near the resort. We only intended to stay for a short while, but we ended up spending a significant amount of money on five or six flower salt soaps. (Haha…) Their products are primarily focused on processing and incorporating flower salt, and buying directly from the manufacturer felt particularly satisfying.
What is fleur de sel? Fleur de sel is the first salt harvested in each salt-making cycle. Simply put, while regular salt is obtained when seawater evaporates completely, fleur de sel is special because it forms and floats on the surface of the water before sinking back down if not collected promptly. Therefore, fleur de sel is scarcer, more expensive, purer, and has a better taste than regular salt, with a less salty flavor. It is also said to have various health benefits.
In addition to selling OTOP products, Kang Han Thong also offers Thai massage, facial massage, and body scrubs, with a focus on using products made from sea salt. The prices are reasonable, with each course costing 300 baht. We both had a one-hour Thai massage, followed by a facial massage for my girlfriend who wanted to look beautiful (haha...). The three steps, scrubbing, massaging, and applying a mask, are a great way to experience a traditional Thai spa.
Leaving the Golden Windmill, it was almost four in the afternoon. It was time to go to the Laem Phak Bia Project, one of my favorite places. Now, they don't allow cars to enter, but there are bicycles for rent or you can use the project's shuttle service.
Waiting for the late afternoon when the sun is not too strong, so I can enjoy a leisurely bike ride in the pleasant atmosphere.
The original text describes a visit to a birdwatching project and the beauty of a wooden bridge leading to the Gulf of Thailand. The author emphasizes the unique charm of photography, capturing different stories and memories in seemingly similar images.
Here's the translated text:
Aside from birdwatching within the project, the wooden bridge stretching towards the Gulf of Thailand is a must-visit. Every visit inspires me to capture it in photographs, each image similar yet imbued with distinct narratives and memories. This is the captivating allure of photography.
The sky today is incredibly beautiful and soft, making me fall even more in love with it.
We left Laem Pak Bia around 6 pm (the project closes at 6 pm but tourists are allowed to stay inside for a while). We drove back on Highway Ss.2021 through Bang Taboon, Khlong Khon, and onto Rama II Road, then headed straight to Bangkok. This concludes our two-day, one-night trip to Phetchaburi - Ban Laem.
Located near the capital, this area boasts salt fields, mudflats, and mangroves. While I personally adore this place and believe many others share my sentiment, it remains a niche destination, attracting a limited number of tourists.
However, I hope that one day, people will look at this place differently. In what seems like nothing, there is often much hidden. Especially if you come during the peak rice planting season in the hot season (TAT will organize an annual tourism event in March), we will see many beautiful images of Ban Laem.
Two days and one night in Ban Laem District and Fisherman's Villa Sea View. This is not just a place to pass through or stop by, but a must-visit destination for relaxation and leisure.
Contact
Fisherman's Villa Sea View
Facebook: www.facebook.com/fisherman.bangkaeo
Phone: 081 651 3034
Golden Windmill
Facebook: www.facebook.com/kanghuntong
Phone: 091 705 0926, 086 544 4473
The following is a translation of the provided text from Thai to English:
"Follow my travel stories on another channel."
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นายสองสามก้าว / A Life, A Traveller
Monday, November 11, 2024 9:53 AM