With three days of vacation (during the rainy season) in the second week of September, she declined invitations to visit Nan and Phrae. However, she immediately agreed to a trip to Chiang Mai, even without knowing the specific destination. This highlights the allure of Chiang Mai.
Where should I go in Chiang Mai? That's my job. Glancing at the sky, it rains every day. This time, it must be a good opportunity to visit the rice terraces in Mae Chaem District. After letting time pass year after year, I will go, but I miss it every time.
There's no better time than now. Book your bus tickets, pack your bags, and head to Mae Chaem district in Chiang Mai. Although I've never been there before, I'm familiar with the route. I've decided to loop around the district to see if there are any beautiful rice fields. As for where to stay and how to get around, we'll figure it out as we go. For now, let me show you the route we'll be taking.
(1)
Our Chiang Mai trip began, as it usually does, with us disembarking at the Chiang Mai Bus Terminal, also known as Arcade Bus Station. From there, we strolled over to our go-to motorbike rental shop, BIKKY.
Due to it being a Saturday, the place was a bit crowded, but there were still some Honda Wave 125cc motorcycles available. The rental price is 300 baht per day, with no deposit required. You only need to leave your ID card. The rental process is simple and the staff are diligent and hardworking.
Okay, let's go! I usually take the southern route, Doi Inthanon, Chom Thong, Hot. I almost always take the Hang Dong-San Pa Tong bypass and have to stop for lunch at my favorite Khao Soi restaurant on Ratchaphruek Road, Khao Soi Fa Ham, Chef Yun. If I come this way and don't stop, I might get a cracked head from my girlfriend (lol…)
I personally don't care about what others say. After trying Khao Soi all over Chiang Mai, I can confidently say that this restaurant is the best. Their Khao Soi, Nam Ngiao, and Khao Soi with Beef Curry are all delicious. The snacks are also great. Come and see for yourself if I'm exaggerating.
With a full stomach, we continued our journey on the newly completed Hang Dong-San Pa Tong bypass road. The previously narrow section along the irrigation canal has been widened, allowing for smooth and fast driving. We reached Chom Thong, the junction for Doi Inthanon, before noon.
Instead of going up to Doi Inthanon, I impulsively decided to go to Mae Chaem district via Hod district. This is because on the way back, I will be able to return via Doi Inthanon, which is closer and easier to manage time.
Continue riding, turn right at Hot District Office, pass Ob Luang National Park, turn right again at Ob Luang Junction to enter Highway 1088. This area is the end of Mae Chaem District. From Chom Thong to here is about 60 kilometers, and from Akat is about 120 kilometers.
Before reaching the Thepphanom Hot Spring (the farthest I've ever been on this route), I had to slam on the brakes because I came across a stunning rice field. It was truly breathtaking. We spent a lot of time here, not because we were taking a lot of pictures, but because it started raining. (Haha...)
The rain started pouring heavily just two minutes after I started taking photos. I waited until it started to subside and went out to take photos again, but it started raining heavily again after two minutes. This went on for an hour.
From this point, you can drive straight for approximately 35 kilometers without any turns or intersections until you reach Mae Chaem district. As mentioned earlier, this route is a longer detour compared to the route through Doi Inthanon.
The heavy rain delayed us significantly, so we had to hurry. I had never been on this route before, so I thought I might see rice fields along the way. However, in reality, after the point where we took the picture, we did not see any more rice fields. We only saw cornfields and cabbage fields.
The journey continued with occasional light rain. Shortly before reaching Mae Chaem district, a sign for "Mon Muang Chaem" appeared, indicating a right turn 1 kilometer ahead. I immediately hit the brakes, as I vaguely remembered reading that this place was worth a stay and offered beautiful scenic views. With no accommodation booked yet, I decided to take a detour and check it out.
The breathtaking view from Monmuang is truly worth the hype. The accommodation is situated on a hilltop, offering panoramic views of lush green rice fields. The serene atmosphere after the rain is simply enchanting. A truly memorable experience.
Remarkably, despite being a Saturday, the hotel was completely empty. The best room rate was 800 baht per night, down from 1,500 baht during peak season. It's curious that during the rainy season, which is considered the low season, room rates are nearly half the price of those in the winter, even though the most beautiful time to visit Mae Chaem is actually now.
There is no food service here, but since there were only two of us, we asked them to make something simple for us. We ended up with two boxes of minced pork stir-fried with basil and a fried egg, which cost 30 baht each. It was a very affordable meal.
(2)
The fresh morning air is perfect, a ten out of ten. No breakfast? No problem. More important than eating is taking photos. Click away, don't hold back!
At nine in the morning, we packed our things and headed to Mae Chaem town. We stopped for some noodles at a clean and inviting restaurant. As the restaurant advertised, no TV channels had yet featured it, but it was definitely delicious (haha...). The tom yum was rich and flavorful, with generous portions, and the price was reasonable.
After lunch, she searched the map for a great coffee shop and found ABOUT A BEAN, located opposite the Mae Chaem Post Office. I must say, it's been a long time since I've found a coffee shop that I love this much. How could I not love it when they have coffee brewed in a Moka pot for only 60 baht?
The standard iced coffee, espresso, latte, and mocha cost 40 baht. In addition to the Moka pot, hot coffee is also brewed using AeroPress and drip methods. It's amazing to find a small coffee shop like this in a small district town. The owner is a young teacher who teaches at Mae Chaem School.
Full and satisfied after coffee, let's continue! I got information from the owner of Mon Mueang Jaem that I should try visiting Ban Mae Gong Gaan. The rice fields there are quite beautiful.
Following the map, set the destination to Wat Ban Kong Kan and keep driving. After a while, you will come across a sight that will make your eyes widen. Park your car by the roadside, grab your camera, and get down to take some amazing photos. Walking in the rice fields might be a bit difficult, but the feeling is worth it.
As noon approached, we headed into the district town for lunch. Taking a deep breath, we knew our next destination was the village of Pa Bong Piang.
The question is whether motorcycles are allowed. That's what I asked the owner of Mon Muang Jaem. The answer is that you can go, but you have to go up through Ban Tung Yao, on the Mae Chaem district side. It's a broken concrete road, but motorcycles can handle it. The rough road is from Mae Pan, Doi Inthanon. You need a high pickup truck or a four-wheel drive to get through there. Motorcycles should not risk it.
Remember, Ban Tung Yao. If you're worried about getting lost, you can also set your destination to Nam Ok Hu. You'll pass by it anyway. Nam Ok Hu is a crystal-clear natural spring that's perfect for swimming.
Upon reaching Ban Tung Yao, you will encounter a sign indicating the 8-kilometer ascent to Ban Pang Bong Piang. As previously mentioned, the road is a dilapidated concrete surface, resembling the lunar landscape in some sections with potholes and unevenness. However, navigating on a motorbike is relatively straightforward due to the ample space for maneuvering.
We gradually ascended until we reached this rice field. Words cannot describe the feeling of exhilaration. We stopped to take some photos.
Moving a little further, we reached a point called Baan Tean Pha, a village before entering the Bong Piang forest. The view was stunning, and there was a guesthouse by the road offering accommodation for 500 baht per person, including dinner and breakfast. Fortunately, the guesthouse was vacant, giving us peace of mind in case we couldn't find accommodation inside the Bong Piang forest.
Just 2 kilometers from Baan Tin Pha, you'll reach Ban Pa Bong Piang, the legendary rice terraces. Wow!
There are quite a few accommodations in Pa Bong Piang, but my wife searched the internet and said she wanted to stay at Baan Rabeang Na, Pa Bong Piang. Whatever she wants, I guess. The way to get there is a bit muddy (if you enter from Mae Pan, Doi Inthanon, you will reach this side first), but it's not too difficult.
The accommodation at Baan Rabeang Na is not located in the middle of a rice field like many other places we have visited before (the most impressive being Ma Chi Po & Ti Chi Seo). However, the advantage is that this view offers a full view of Doi Inthanon and the meadows on Kiw Mae Pan.
While the house itself is not located in a rice paddy, there are rice paddy steps nearby.
The accommodation is extremely basic, costing 500 baht per person, including dinner and breakfast. Electricity is provided by solar panels, with one light on the balcony and another in the bathroom, which is located outside the house. Considering the remote location on the mountain, these amenities are quite satisfactory.
After resting until we were no longer tired, we rode our motorbikes to take pictures of the rice terraces near Mae Chaem. The atmosphere in the rice fields was amazing, truly beautiful, even though in reality it wasn't as spectacular as I had imagined (I had imagined it in a very exaggerated way, haha...). In short, it was a great experience.
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After returning from the fields, a meal awaited me on the veranda. Stir-fried vegetables, fried pork, omelet, and canned fish salad. Although not local cuisine, it was delicious. The beautiful view made the meal even more satisfying.
As dusk approached, the sky grew overcast, and I had no expectation of seeing any stars. I took a bath and sat on the balcony, enjoying the breeze. Around nine o'clock, the wind picked up, and the clouds parted momentarily. To my surprise, the stars were dazzling, and the Milky Way was clearly visible to the naked eye. I quickly set up my camera and looked for an angle. The first shot was out of focus, and by the time I took the second, the clouds had returned, accompanied by a flash of lightning.
Our time with the white elephant was truly fleeting. (laughter...)
(3)
A New Day Dawns on Doi Inthanon
The morning alarm clock blares at six o'clock, jolting me awake. I stumble to the door, eager to see what the new day holds. And what a sight it is! A sea of mist, cascading rice terraces, and the majestic Doi Inthanon – a trifecta of natural wonders. This scene is worth a million words, a million photographs.
After taking a few photos near the accommodation, I started the motorbike and went to capture images elsewhere. This is the advantage of riding a motorbike; I can find beautiful spots and choose the perfect angles. The fog was sometimes thick, sometimes thin, making it a truly magical morning.
Upon returning to my accommodation, another meal was laid out before me. It was a simple dish of fried rice, fried eggs, and sausages. However, when paired with the stunning view, it became an incredibly delicious meal.
Although my heart wasn't ready to leave, the clock said, "Hey, pack your bags! Life must go on. Start the car and keep moving. If you delay, you won't make it back to the car in Chiang Mai in time." (laughs...)
As mentioned earlier, I will return via Doi Inthanon. However, as I also mentioned, although Doi Inthanon is nearby, the road conditions are poor and unsuitable for motorcycles. Therefore, we have to take a detour down to Mae Chaem district and then loop back up to Doi Inthanon.
Rushing up the mountain, let me check Google Maps for a moment. Kovid, the hut at the end of the rice field, another great place to stay on the terraced rice fields is on the way up to Doi Inthanon. Let's do it, what could go wrong? But as soon as I turned the car in, I almost screamed (following the sign for Mae Raek School). The road was so muddy and full of potholes.
What should we do? At this point, curiosity has no mercy. We want to see if this place is as amazing as the reviews say, so we have to see it for ourselves. We drag each other through one checkpoint after another, and the distance of about three kilometers takes more than half an hour. By the time we arrive, we are sweating profusely.
I did not take pictures of the route because I had to focus on riding. The difficulty level here is 8.5, and I do not recommend it unless you are a skilled rider. Even when I reached my destination, the owner asked me how I managed to ride in (laughs...).
Kovid Kradhom Plad Nai is a unique accommodation nestled amidst a terraced rice paddy in a valley. While the paddy field itself may not be as expansive as the Pa Bong Piang Forest, the surrounding mountains create a truly breathtaking setting. The cost is 900 baht per person, and transportation is available for those arriving by road.
Departing from Kovid's hut at the end of the rice field, head straight up Doi Inthanon. At the three-way checkpoint (turn left to go up the mountain), turn right towards the park office. Park and have lunch for a while, then continue down to Ban Mae Klang Luang. Pass Ang Ka Forest View, the beautiful rice terraces in front of you are a must-see.
Although I managed to take a few photos at Mae Klang Luang, the heavy downpour left me feeling unsatisfied. It was a shame, as I had only captured a few angles and spots before the rain began.
We waited for more than half an hour, but the rain showed no signs of stopping. We decided to put on our raincoats and head down the mountain, as the clouds suggested that the rain was localized.
The rain stopped shortly after I set off, and by the time I reached the bottom, the sun was shining brightly, drying everything that had been soaked. I rode straight back to the arcade near five o'clock in the evening and returned the car with ease, as quickly as ever.
After waiting for a long time, I finally achieved one of my goals this year: seeing the legendary rice terraces of Mae Chaem. The beauty was breathtaking, and I didn't need a second chance (unless I want to visit during the golden hour). Next year, I'll be able to continue my pursuit of stunning rice fields elsewhere.
Those who wish to follow in my footsteps are welcome to do so. If you want to see green rice fields, go now. However, if you want to see golden rice fields, wait until the middle of next month. One motorcycle is all you need, as I have personally proven.
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นายสองสามก้าว / A Life, A Traveller
Wednesday, February 26, 2025 8:46 PM