Who says the rainy season is not fun to travel in...
Our journey began at Bang Sue Grand Station.
Before embarking on their journey, they refueled with a hearty bowl of "gwai jab" (a Vietnamese noodle soup) near the train station.
After that, we waited for the train… It was an auspicious time for the event today, and the train was not late. Hooray!
The train journey from Bangkok to Chiang Mai is on a second-class carriage with slightly reclining seats.
Personally, we enjoyed the spacious legroom. We were seated at the back, which made it convenient to access the restroom.
We might be the only two Thai people in the sixth train car, as most of the passengers seem to be foreigners.
---------------------
We have arrived at Chiang Mai Railway Station, only 15 minutes late. After getting off the train, we boarded a red songthaew.
To continue our journey, we must find the perfect vehicle.
Our first destination today is the accommodation, Baan Mae Klang Luang.
Departing from Chiang Mai city center, take the Hang Dong route towards Doi Inthanon. The journey does not take long.
And finally, we arrived. We had booked a room in advance, a bamboo house.
This is the view from my room. It's so beautiful that I almost don't want to go anywhere else. In front of me, there are mountains and rice terraces with a thin layer of fog, creating a truly breathtaking atmosphere.
As predicted, it rained today. We packed our belongings, showered, got dressed, and relaxed for a while on the wooden chairs in front of our room.
The group enjoyed a meal at a local restaurant in the village before continuing their journey to Doi Inthanon.
-----------------------------
Throughout our ascent of Doi Inthanon, we encountered persistent rainfall and dense fog that severely obscured visibility.
The phrase "ยิ่งสูงยิ่งหนาว" translates to "the higher you go, the colder it gets." This is a common saying in Thai that reflects the reality of the climate in mountainous regions. As you ascend higher, the temperature drops, making it essential to take breaks and adjust to the changing conditions. The mention of "กิ่วแม่ปาน" suggests that the speaker is referring to a specific location, possibly a mountain pass or viewpoint known for its scenic beauty and chilly temperatures. The act of stopping to use the restroom and rest the body further emphasizes the importance of taking precautions when traveling in such environments.
Stretch your legs before gritting your teeth and pushing forward, as there are only a few kilometers left.
Upon reaching the summit, the first thought that came to mind was the desire for a steaming cup of instant noodles or a hot cup of tea. The summit was already closed, and tears streamed down my face. Fortunately, the café at the top was still open. Two hot mochas saved our lives. It was truly cold, so cold that my hands could barely feel anything.
The next step is to find a raincoat because the wind is so strong that driving down will definitely freeze you to death. Luckily, there is a group of foreigners who come to watch birds here.
We pleaded with them for raincoats, and they generously gave us two. They had brought many, and we were so grateful that we almost bowed down to them. Without their raincoats, we would have been discouraged from continuing our journey.
This was not our first time ascending Doi Inthanon, but it was the first time we had to practically beg for our lives.
-------------------------------------
After an arduous journey, our stomachs began to rumble. We decided to have dinner at the Inthanon Royal Agricultural Station, located on our way back to our accommodation. The menu for the day consisted of fresh shrimp and mixed vegetable curry, stir-fried cabbage with fish sauce, stir-fried mushrooms with oyster sauce, coffee-roasted duck, and a light beer.
-----------------------------
The rainy season has officially arrived.
Day 2
Today, we planned to visit the Rak Jang Waterfall (Pha Dok Siew Waterfall), but the weather was not on our side. However, we were determined to go, so we set off! Before our journey, we had breakfast at a local restaurant, as usual. We enjoyed hot tofu and egg soup, fragrant omelets, and stir-fried suki with egg (which I tried for the first time. It tasted like cucumber but was more crunchy and delicious).
We contacted a local guide from the village and hired a pickup truck to take us directly to the trailhead, as it was quite a distance from our accommodation.
He said it's better to save our energy for the walk back.
The path to the waterfall is a haven for nature lovers, with lush green vegetation, vibrant moss, and an abundance of mushrooms lining the way.
As we walked along, we came across a flower field belonging to the Hmong people, who were harvesting chrysanthemums to sell in Bangkok. Our guide, an elder from the Palaung tribe, explained that the Hmong people dislike being called "Miao." He pointed out that the people we saw were Hmong, while he himself was Palaung. He also noted that their traditional clothing differed between the two groups.
The terrain was quite slippery, and we had to wear unfamiliar boots, which made it very difficult. We were both bitten, so we had to take off our shoes and walk for miles. But it was fun in a different way.
Lost in the moment, I let out a joyous scream as I finally reached my destination: the breathtaking waterfall I had only seen in movies during my high school days.
After spending some time at the waterfall, taking in the scenery and capturing some photos, we continued our journey. The return route took us along a path that skirted behind the village where we were staying.
--------------------------------------
After our hike, we returned to our accommodation to shower and prepare for our onward journey.
Our intended destination was Ban Pong Piang, Mae Chaem District.
We set off from our accommodation, making sure to buy raincoats as the rain continued to fall.
Based on information gathered from Pantip, a popular online forum in Thailand, we decided to travel to Ban Pong Piang by motorcycle. The group of experienced riders we consulted confirmed the route's suitability for motorcycles. The journey began by passing through the entrance of Doi Inthanon National Park and turning left towards Mae Chaem district. The initial paved road was shrouded in a light mist, creating an almost urban driving experience. However, as we progressed, the road narrowed significantly, indicating infrequent use and a sense of isolation.
As the path narrowed, it became increasingly muddy and treacherous. Imagine a dirt road transformed into a quagmire of mud and puddles. The path ahead seemed endless, and tears welled up in my eyes. The distance to my destination appeared to be considerable.
(Oh, hey! This isn't what we agreed on! 5555555)
Upon arriving at Pong Piang's house, all the fatigue vanished. The sight that greeted them was a vast expanse of rice fields, with lush green rice stalks swaying in the breeze.
Initially, we planned to take photos and leave if there wasn't much to see. However, the scenic route and tranquility of Ban Pong Piang made us reconsider. We hadn't booked accommodation in advance, and it was already 4:30 PM. We prayed that our meager good deeds would grant us a place to stay. Miraculously, the owner of another guesthouse approached us. They informed us that a house at the end of the village might be available and provided us with their contact information.
We have a place to sleep tonight! We survived! Our accommodation is a wooden stilt house with one bedroom. The veranda is made of bamboo, and the ground below is covered with vegetables. Most importantly, there is a small waterfall in front of the house that flows from the mountain behind. It's just like the houses in our elementary school textbooks! We love it!
The owner's son came to take care of us. He lit a fire to drive away the mosquitoes because he said that if they bite, or if some people are allergic, it could cause wounds.
This evening, we dined by the soft glow of a kerosene lamp. Our simple meal consisted of a fluffy omelet, a spicy canned fish salad, and a bunch of sweet plantains for dessert. It was a humble feast, but one that nourished both body and soul.
The reason for the enhanced flavor today remains unclear. Perhaps the ambiance, the simplicity, and the company contributed to this delightful experience.
This morning, we woke up to the perfect cool weather. Breakfast was brought to us by the same young man as yesterday. The two of us had the opportunity to chat with him on the veranda of the house. He is 23 years old and told us that there are only a few houses in the village, and everyone knows each other. During the planting season, they help each other out, and during the rice harvest, it's a lot of fun because they have to climb over the hills to help each other harvest the rice. We think it's a warm and simple way of life for farmers, and it's still real and unadulterated.
It was time to bid farewell to Ban Bong Piang and the wonderful friendships we had made there. We set off in the late morning, taking an alternative route suggested by our friend. This route led us through Mae Chaem district and towards Doi Inthanon. The road was in better condition than the one we had taken on our arrival, and the views were stunning. The roadside was a patchwork of cornfields and terraced rice paddies.
As we continued driving, we came across a junction leading to the main road. It was almost noon, so we decided to stop for lunch at a small shop at the intersection. We figured that Mae Choi must not have performed in this area, as the local noodles were incredibly delicious. The broth was fragrant and flavorful, and we didn't even need to add any additional seasoning. To top it off, the total cost for two bowls of noodles and two cans of soda came to only 50 baht. It was a testament to the fact that good and affordable things do exist.
-------------------------
We then headed towards Chiang Mai city center, driving slowly with rain along the way. Upon reaching our accommodation in the city, we were completely exhausted. We had dinner at Ruen Jareon Saeng Aek, a restaurant we frequent whenever we visit Chiang Mai. The northern Thai food was excellent, but due to our fatigue and the onset of a fever, we decided to return to our accommodation, take some medicine, and get some rest. Our bodies were simply unable to handle any more. Good night, Chiang Mai. z z Z Z
Today is the last day. This morning, we packed our bags and prepared to return the car. Before leaving, we drove around the city because we had to be at the airport around noon. We ended our trip by visiting two temples, Wat Phantao and Wat Chedi Luang, to make merit. We had used up all our good karma when we prayed for accommodation, haha.
Before heading home, we wrote postcards to ourselves, capturing memories of this extraordinary journey. It was a challenging trip during the rainy season, but it taught us that the adventure was worth it. The rewards far exceeded mere happiness. We are grateful for the stunning natural scenery, the pleasant atmosphere, and most importantly, the incredible companion who joined us on this wild adventure.
Link to a Thai forum discussion
I am Nature addict
Tuesday, October 8, 2024 11:25 AM