By chance, we had the opportunity to take a three-day break with only a week's notice. The first thought that popped into our heads was that we had to pack our bags and go somewhere. The last time we had a three-day break, we managed to book a last-minute trip to India, so how could we not find somewhere to go this time?

Our goal for this trip was to go anywhere, but with the condition that there must be lush green areas and good air. If we could go into the forest, that would be great. We stopped for 3 days, but I really wanted to go into the forest. It just so happened that the song "One Day I Walked into the Forest" by Max Jenmana was popular at that time, which made me feel even more connected to nature.

While researching, we stumbled upon a province known as the "City of Mountains and Sea." It boasts numerous mountains, both small and large, instantly captivating our mountain-loving hearts.

Despite securing a fantastic itinerary and enticing photos, we faced a significant challenge in recruiting members for our trip. Our proposed travel dates, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, coincided with regular working days for most people. This meant that potential participants would have to take two consecutive days off work, often on short notice. Consequently, despite initial interest, almost everyone declined our invitation due to scheduling conflicts.

The captivating beauty of the mountains in Loei Province enticed four like-minded individuals to join our group. As soon as our group was complete, we promptly booked our flights. We booked our tickets on Monday and flew to Loei Province on Thursday.

Since you want to go, you have to go "beyond" it.

DAY 1: Khao Piek Pak Ma, Phu Bo Bit Forest Park, Phu Ruea

This morning's flight from Bangkok to Loei was an exciting experience. As we entered Loei's airspace, we were greeted by a breathtaking view of rolling mountains stretching as far as the eye could see. The mountains were shrouded in a light mist, creating a lush and verdant landscape that exceeded our expectations.

Upon arriving at Loei Airport, I pondered my next move. Having booked my flight only three days in advance, my travel plans were somewhat fluid. I decided to explore Loei City on the first day, hike Mount Phu Luang on the second, and leave the third day open for spontaneity.

We opted for a van from the airport to the bus terminal (50 baht per person). We happened to be seated behind the driver, so we took the opportunity to ask some questions to a local.

We: Excuse me, where is Phupha Lom? (I saw the sign at the airport)
Van driver: ...Uh...what?
We: Phupha Lom.
Van driver: ..................
We: Uh, never mind. Do you know the Cave of the Bodhisattva?
Van driver: The Cave of the Bodhisattva... (silence)
We: ...Okay, never mind.

(I don't know, and neither do you. It's okay, I was just asking in case you knew.)

Upon arriving at the bus terminal, we were immediately approached by friendly locals offering to show us around the city. They were eager to know where we wanted to go, but we were unsure ourselves. Ultimately, we were fortunate to meet Uncle Pood, a local tuk-tuk driver who took us on a tour of the city.


Dog's Saliva Rice

This renowned restaurant is a must-visit for any visitor to Loei. The owner, known for his boisterous personality, enthusiastically recommended two dishes: the Khao Piek with Egg (35 baht) and the Moo Yor Tord (50 baht).

In our opinion, Khao Piek should be served with a generous amount of chili powder to enhance its depth of flavor and make it more enjoyable to eat. The portion of Moo Yor (fermented pork sausage) provided may be excessive for a group of two people. We shared it among four people and found it to be just the right amount. Any more than that could lead to feeling overly full.


Phu Bo Bit Forest Park

From Pak Ma Restaurant, we opted to take Uncle Pead's car to Phu Bo Bid, a hill not too far away by car. It turned out to be a good choice, as we arrived quickly.

This mountain is located at an altitude of 520 meters above sea level, which is not very high, but it offers a pleasant view of the city in the afternoon as the sun sets. The air is cool and there is a constant breeze.

There are two ways to reach the starting point of the hike up the mountain:
1) A 1 km walk-up path.
2) A path accessible by car that takes you directly to the starting point.
Uncle Puud let us choose the path we wanted to take at our leisure. Of course, we chose the second option, Uncle.

Ta-da!

Despite opting for the second route, as we approached the section suitable for cars, Uncle Püd abruptly stopped the vehicle, signaling us to disembark. He explained that his three-wheeled vehicle was incapable of navigating the remaining incline, citing its limited capacity to accommodate all four of us (including himself) along with our luggage. Consequently, we were compelled to embark on foot from that point to the trailhead.

The ascent to the mountain begins with a climb up concrete stairs with a slight incline. Several groups of chickens are present on both sides of the path. We recommend dressing modestly when visiting Phu Bo Bit, as we encountered monks descending the path at intervals. Additionally, there is a cave temple at the summit.

The trail ascends a concrete staircase, transitioning to a combination of stone and concrete steps, interspersed with earthen sections. The path is generally safe and well-maintained, with handrails along the entire route. The climb is not particularly challenging. For those concerned about hydration, there is a cave temple at the summit where bottled water is available. It is assumed that visitors can consume the water after making a donation to the temple's water fund and the cost of transporting the water.

After passing the Phra Cave, paying respects to the Buddha, and signing your name, you will find a path with iron stairs for continuing your climb to the top of the mountain. These stairs are sturdy and durable.

Before reaching the summit, there is a cave with a small opening that allows one person to pass through and climb to the highest point of the mountain. However, there is also a regular path to the summit. You can walk out of the cave and climb the stairs to reach the top.

The Summit of Phu Bo Bit

Upon reaching the summit, one can enjoy panoramic views of the city, encompassing both the urban landscape with its rooftops and the natural beauty of the surrounding mountains. It is highly recommended to take a leisurely stroll around the peak to fully appreciate the breathtaking scenery.

The trail winds around the summit, offering diverse perspectives from each vantage point. The presence of trees and rocks creates a picturesque landscape. The cool, refreshing air invigorates the senses, making this an unforgettable experience.

Upon descending to the base of the mountain path, one may observe cotton plants during the appropriate season. While residents of Loei Province may not be fazed by this sight, visitors from urban areas like myself are often captivated. It was a stroke of luck to witness this for the first time, as I initially mistook the cotton for stuffing lodged within the trees.


At Phu Ruea

Uncle Pid passed the work on to his friends, who then arranged for us to take a van to our accommodation near Phu Ruea. Incredibly, as soon as we entered the Phu Ruea area, the temperature dropped significantly, giving us goosebumps. Surprisingly, the temperature had plummeted to just 17 degrees Celsius, despite being only a short distance from the city. This chill even extended to the toilet seat covers, making for a rather unpleasant experience.

Tonight's accommodation is called Phusamhao, which we found after searching online. The decoration is in the style of a junk boat, which is quite interesting. Initially, we were going to book a tent, but luckily we decided to choose a room instead, as the weather is cold and we were worried about being uncomfortable. Just imagine, we had just come from the hot and sweaty weather of Bangkok in the morning, and we didn't think it would be so cold here just a few hours away. The clothes we brought were definitely not prepared for this.

The largest Christmas fair in Loei

Nestled in an alleyway leading up to Phu Ruea Mountain, a prominent plaza stands adorned with rows of vibrant red and green poinsettia trees. A large, festive sign proclaims: "Phu Ruea Christmas Festival, 6th Edition." Locals recount that every year, poinsettia trees are brought to this plaza and displayed until the end of January, after which they are transplanted elsewhere.

Som Tum Restaurant at Phu Ruea

This is a simple and short translation of the original text, maintaining the same tone of voice.

The evening air was chilly, and we found ourselves hungry and wandering the alleyways in search of food. None of the restaurants in our accommodation's alley were open, not even the small shops in the market along the main road. Fortunately, we stumbled upon a som tam and grilled chicken restaurant that was open. The restaurant was divided into two sections: the left half selling som tam and grilled chicken, and the right half was an air-conditioned room for renting Thai wedding dresses.

Every dish, from the papaya salad and spicy minced pork salad to the fragrant stir-fried eggs with shiitake mushrooms, was bursting with flavor. The bold and authentic taste left us wanting more and eager to discover the name of this culinary gem so we could mark it for future visits.

Us: What's the name of this restaurant?
Som Tum Restaurant: The restaurant... the restaurant... doesn't have a name. It just sells som tum in general.
Us: We just wanted to know so we could recommend it to our friends.
Som Tum Restaurant: Oh... (glancing at their own restaurant)... let's call it Golf Set Rental Shop then.

Cuteness level 1: Seriously? Recommending friends to eat som tum in Loei and getting a restaurant name like this? Will your friends be confused? "Hey, next time you're in Phu Ruea, don't forget to stop by the Golf Set Rental Shop for some som tum." 2-in-1 right there!

If you're craving delicious papaya salad, check out "Golf Rental Shop," located directly across from the Christmas market.

Spicy fermented fish salad with fresh shiitake mushroom omelet - a must-try!

DAY 2: Phu Luang and Chiang Khan

This morning, we set off for Phu Luang. But before we could reach our destination, we had to survive the 10-degree cold. It was even colder than last night. The challenge began with the first step out of bed and into the bathroom, trying to minimize contact with the freezing cold tiles.

Imagine dancing and leaping to the song "Silly Fools" by Silly Fools, especially the part that says, "No matter how cold it is, I will break through." This will greatly enhance the emotional experience of the moment.


Phu Luang Wildlife Sanctuary (Wildlife Non-Hunting Area), Loei Province

The bedroom was freezing cold even with the air conditioner turned off and the door tightly shut. The journey up to Phu Luang in the back of a pickup truck was even more unbearably cold. It was so cold that the villagers along the road were sitting around bonfires, warming themselves up. I was tempted to join them.

After passing through the residential area, the atmosphere on the way up to Phu Luang is filled with lush green trees. This is exactly what I wanted! However, it comes at the cost of being hit by the wind, making my face tense and cold all the way. Anyway, it's still worth it at this point.

Before reaching the summit, we had to register and pay the park entrance fee. While we were waiting, our driver, Mr. Suchart, picked some wild tamarind and distributed it to us. Later, our friend told us that Mr. Suchart had advertised the wild tamarind as sweet before taking a bite himself. He then immediately spat it out, exclaiming, "Ugh! It's sour!"

This incident perfectly exemplifies the second aspect of our trip's charm: honesty is the best policy. Mr. Suchart's genuine reaction, without any attempt to hide his feelings, brought tears of laughter to our eyes.

After the "Thruiyyyyyy" sound (cut to a scene of us walking to pay the entrance fee).

We paid the entrance fee without knowing what to expect. A friendly friend approached us and offered us a taste of a sweet tamarind. (This happened after our friend witnessed an embarrassing incident involving an uncle.) We accepted the tamarind, examined it briefly, and took a bite. To our surprise, it was incredibly bitter! Our friend, seeing our contorted face, burst into laughter.

Our conversation about wild gooseberries continued as we ascended the mountain, finally reaching the summit of Phu Luang. At 1,400 meters above sea level, Phu Luang is nearly three times higher than Phu Bo Bid, which we visited yesterday. Imagine the air at 17 degrees below, on this peak the cold multiplies to the point where even a down jacket is necessary.


Nature Trail 1: Pha Yueng

The hiking trails of Phu Luang can be divided into three main routes. The shortest route starts from the car park and takes only a few minutes to reach Pha Yueng, a scenic viewpoint. This short hike is often described as being so quick that one's flatulence wouldn't even have time to dissipate before reaching the destination.

The lush greenery is a sight to behold, but there are not many flowers in bloom as it is the dry winter season.

Nature Trail 2: Sunken Plaza

This second route is a one-way loop of approximately 2 kilometers. The four of us took two hours to complete the walk, as we made frequent stops to explore, take photos, and rest at particularly scenic spots.

For this hike, it is advisable to bring warm clothing as the unpredictable weather can leave you shivering. Along the trail, you will encounter scattered wildflowers.

This trail features approximately 21 points of interest marked by signs (including the entrance and exit). The highlight of the trail on the day we visited was:

Point 20: The Origin of the River, the End of Life (Tree)

This scene depicts a stream and large trees. The image evokes the sight of trees and a stream, with the sound of water cascading down and hitting rocks. The gentle breeze rustles the leaves, creating a symphony with the cool, damp air. This captivating scene leaves the viewer mesmerized.


Nature Trail 3: Pha Chang Pass and Pha Somdej

The final trail, which officials initially discouraged us from taking due to concerns about thick fog obscuring the view, was attempted again at noon. This trail offered the furthest distance for exploration and the potential for encountering wildlife.

A short distance from the starting point, there will be a Maple tree (with red leaves) on the left-hand side. Please pay close attention.

As we ventured deeper into the forest, we encountered fresh elephant dung and footprints, indicating their recent presence. The excitement was palpable, as we yearned to witness these majestic creatures in their natural habitat. However, the potential danger associated with such an encounter was not lost on us.


Elephant Pass

After walking for 1 kilometer, you will reach Pha Chang Pass, where you can enjoy breathtaking views of the distant mountains.

Phra Sam Daeng

Continuing from Pha Chang for another kilometer, we reached Pha Somdej. From Pha Somdej, one can see Pha Telin, a layered mountain. It would be a beautiful sight to jump out and take a picture of the mountain from the front.

As we embarked on this journey late, we harbored concerns about the potential dangers that lay ahead. Moreover, the presence of fresh elephant dung heightened our apprehension. Consequently, we made the collective decision to retrace our steps and return to our starting point, where our guide, Prajak Ma Kham Pom, awaited our arrival.

After leaving Phu Luang, I felt that the trip was worthwhile. The goal of wanting to visit a green area with good air and finding good things was successfully achieved. We then let Mr. Prajak lead us on a tour before continuing to Chiang Khan tonight.


Wat Pa Huai Lad

When I asked my brother to take me sightseeing, he took me to the temple to make merit for good luck. Thank you, brother. You are also a devotee of merit-making.

The temple is quite large, both in terms of its grounds and the temple itself, including the impressive Buddha statue inside. Outside the temple, there are sculptures of various shapes, which are different from other temples I have visited.


Huai Krathing Reservoir (Harirak Forest Park)

We requested a detour to the Huai Krathing Reservoir, which we had seen a sign for on our way to Phu Ruea. We wanted to experience the atmosphere of the reservoir before continuing to Chiang Khan. Our driver, Prajak, informed us that there are restaurants below that offer raft dining experiences, allowing tourists to enjoy their meals while floating on the reservoir. While this sounded appealing, we unfortunately did not have enough time during this trip.

We checked into our accommodation, which was a chilling experience due to the outdoor bathroom. This meant that we had to shower and use the restroom in the cold wind, which gave us goosebumps.


Chiang Khan Walking Street

Our first visit to Chiang Khan was approximately seven years ago, if memory serves. We haven't been back since, and this return feels like a journey to rekindle the memories and impressions of that earlier trip.

The warm atmosphere continues, with charming scenes that invite leisurely strolls along the path.

This time I found a shop selling wooden postcards. They are made of wood, can be sent for real, and are not expensive. How could I miss it?

A popular street food option is skewered grilled shrimp, which can be eaten whole. Vendors selling these shrimp skewers are a common sight along the walking street. The hot, salty, and savory grilled shrimp are a perfect snack for the cool weather, and it's easy to understand why they are so popular.

Another simple yet tempting menu is grilled sticky rice. The hot, grilled rice topped with a fried egg is enough to make anyone's mouth water. We patiently waited in line to get our hands on this delicious treat.

Before heading back to our accommodation, we stopped to buy some crispy roti. We ended up getting two boxes for the price of one because the seller told us that she had made too much and couldn't sell it all due to the cold weather. She insisted that we take both boxes, saying that tomorrow would be even colder.

DAY 3: Phu Tok, Chiang Khan

Today, I must say that I am dressed very warmly. Not just my face, but also my clothes. Following the threat from the roti lady with a heavy hand, who offered a buy-one-get-one-free deal and said that today would be the coldest day, I have put on three layers of clothes. If it gets colder than Phu Luang, I might just have a stiff hand and body like the lady.

Phu Tok

We woke up at 4:30 am to shower and get dressed to go see the mist at Phu Tok. The kind uncle at the accommodation drove us to the pick-up point at Phu Tok, and then we took a ride up to Phu Tok (25 baht per person).

We watched the sunrise together, from the moment before it peeked over the horizon until it fully emerged in the sky.

Today, luck wasn't on our side. Unlike the photos we saw of others checking in, the usual thick fog on top of Phu Tok was barely visible. This morning, the fog was thin and light, and the air wasn't as cold as we were warned. It was a stark contrast to yesterday. As they say, nature is nature, and we can't control it. It's part of its charm. We'll have to wait for another opportunity to witness it again.

As we descended from the peak of Phu Tok, we were greeted by the enticing call of "Fresh milk, no sugar, straight from the farm!" The promise of unsweetened, fresh milk piqued our interest, and we turned to investigate, eager to quench our thirst with a warm glass of this local delicacy.

This fresh milk is boiled with pandan leaves and contains no added sugar, yet it is surprisingly sweet. The simplicity of this drink is truly remarkable. If you are descending from Phu Tok, look to your right and you will see a man selling milk with a single pot. Grab a glass of this unique beverage for a delightful morning treat.


Tiny House by Obdam

The host from our accommodation came to pick us up at the same spot where he dropped us off, which felt heartwarming, like he was picking up his children. We want to give a shout-out to this accommodation, as both places we stayed at during this trip were excellent, even though we barely had time to choose or plan them.

The uncle (father of the owner) and the aunt were also enjoyable to talk to. I didn't take a picture of them.

The warm and inviting atmosphere of the accommodation is enhanced by its tasteful decor. The owner's son, an architect, designed the space, and the couple manages it with care. The limited number of rooms ensures a personalized experience, fostering a sense of community among guests. This attention to detail left a lasting impression on our stay.

Most people prefer to stay in accommodations by the river, which undoubtedly offers a pleasant atmosphere. We stayed there several years ago. However, if you value privacy and don't require a riverside location, we believe this is another excellent option. Bicycles are available for rent, and a friendly uncle will drive you there if he is available. Alternatively, you can easily walk to the Chiang Khan Walking Street.

Chiang Khan

This morning, we cycled around Chiang Khan town, stopping at a cafe converted from an old cinema.


Suwanna Rama Coffee, Chiang Khan

Suwanna Rama Coffee was originally a cinema. The interior decoration of the shop is therefore full of movie posters, movie cameras, and various equipment from the cinema. Moreover, the real cinema is still behind. As far as I saw that day, the cinema part had already become a badminton court.

A staple dish when visiting the Mekong River, the "egg pan" is a must-try. While it can be made at home, the atmosphere and location create a completely different experience.

Breakfast showdown: Eggs in a pan versus sandwiches and waffles, with a side of coffee.

After a relaxing break at the cafe, we took a leisurely bike ride along the Chiang Khan Walking Street and the banks of the Mekong River.

After a short ride, it was time to eat again. The last meal of the trip had to be som tam. We tried the restaurant "Tum Luem Pua", where the highlight was the "Fried Chicken Wings" (not sure why it's not called "Fried Chicken Wings", maybe it's the same reason why some people call it "Prik Nam Pla" while others call it "Nam Pla Prik"). This dish was so delicious that we had to order another plate.

Temple of Tha Khok

Note: I have translated the Thai text "วัดท่าคก" to its English equivalent, "Temple of Tha Khok". I have also kept the original HTML structure intact.

A nearly 200-year-old temple located along the Mekong River, exuding an air of antiquity and tranquility. We paid our respects inside the temple's ordination hall before heading home.

As we bowed in prayer before the main Buddha statue, one of our friends dropped a coin into the alms bowl of a novice statue in the ordination hall. The novice statue then began to chant for several minutes, seemingly without end. This left us all feeling incredibly blessed, making it a truly unforgettable final stop on our trip.

A little secret: the tiny crispy pancakes ("khanom bueang") in front of Wat Tha Khok are incredibly delicious. If you visit the temple, don't forget to stop by and buy some. The pancake batter is thin and crispy, and the taste is not too sweet.

The final destination of the trip was to get myself back to the airport in time for my evening flight. I asked the guesthouse owner, Uncle Aek, if there was a bus stop nearby that could take me to the airport.

The bus from Nakhon Chai Air, which passes through the airport, stops at the bus terminal. The fare is only 59 baht per person, which is very cheap and comfortable to sleep on. We slept until we woke up at the bus stop where we met Uncle Pead on the first day. We didn't get off at this bus stop, but we saw Uncle Pead just in time. He was smiling and greeting his friends, while also greeting tourists like us, asking where we were going, just like he greeted us that day.

The sight of Uncle Pii triggered a flood of memories from the first day we arrived in Loei. Images of the Ban Phu Bo Bid peak, the streams and elephant dung at Phu Luang, the aerial view of Huai Krathing, the biting cold at Phu Sam Pha, the scenery of Phu Luang and Chiang Khan, the taste of grilled tiny shrimp, and the astringent wild tamarind all came rushing back. These experiences made us feel that it was worth not letting the 3-day holiday pass by idly, but instead, we truly spent all 3 days in Loei.

Thank you to my fellow travelers for this impromptu trip. It was a precious three-day journey, experiencing the beauty of the mountains and the sea in the coldest part of Siam. I am returning home with a heart full of joy. Until we meet again, farewell!

#loei##special area of loei#mountain#thailand
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