Take the train to Kiriwong to savor delicious food.

For this trip, we planned two weeks in advance. After discussing and agreeing on the location with the students, we researched accommodation options and called to book, paying a deposit. We then checked train schedules on the website http://www.railway.co.th/checktime/checktime.asp.

The journey began on April 6, 2018. We arrived at Hua Lamphong Railway Station at 4 pm to book tickets for train number 173, departing at 5:35 pm (according to the train number and departure time we had checked on the website). However, when we arrived, the tickets were sold out, with only a few seats available in the third class. We discussed our options and decided to take the third class seats, even though they were scattered and not close together. We planned to ask other passengers to exchange seats later.

While waiting for the train, I had lunch at a restaurant at the station. The food was delicious and affordable, but the owner wasn't very welcoming. There were only a few restaurants, about 4-5, offering both rice and noodles. At around 5:30 pm, as the train was about to depart, I went to the platform and found the train I had booked.

17:35, the exact time on the ticket. The train started moving. Finally, it really started its journey. Phew... I thought I wouldn't be able to go.

The train departed from Hua Lamphong Station with some empty seats. It stopped at other stations to pick up more passengers until it was full. At the stations along the way, vendors brought food to sell at affordable prices, ranging from 5 to 30 baht. The food was freshly cooked and hot. During the train's stop at Nakhon Pathom Station, a vendor selling fish noodles caught my attention. I bought a box for 10 baht. It looked ordinary, but it tasted surprisingly good. The fish balls were delicious, and the pre-seasoned thin noodles were flavorful. Moreover, it was still warm. Around 9 pm, a vendor selling chicken rice porridge passed by.

The aroma was so enticing that I couldn't resist ordering a cup on my second visit. It was just as delicious as before. With a full stomach, my eyelids grew heavy, and I drifted in and out of sleep. I woke up to the sound of a vendor selling "sticky rice with chicken" in a melodious voice near Surat Thani station in the early morning hours. Feeling hungry, I waved to the vendor. The crispy fried chicken and warm sticky rice were a delightful treat, even without brushing my teeth. 555+

After more than ten hours of travel, we arrived at Nakhon Si Thammarat Station. Getting off the train, we were hungry (again), but we didn't know how to proceed. So we went to ask the station master about how to get to the 'Khanom Jeen Muang Kon' restaurant and how to get to Khao Kiriwong. The station master spoke very quickly, and all we could understand was 'taxi' and 'songthaew stand'. So we walked to the front of the train station and asked a motorcycle taxi driver, who gave us the number to call a taxi.

Taxi hotline in Nakhon Si Thammarat: 075-357-888. Taxis here use meters, starting at 40 baht. There is a 20 baht charge for calling a taxi by phone.

After obtaining the taxi number and calling for a ride, the taxi arrived within approximately 15 minutes. The taxi fare from the train station to the Khanom Jeen Muang Kon restaurant was 58 Thai baht, plus a 20 baht call fee.

'Khanom Jeen Muang Kon' Restaurant: A Tourist-Friendly Taste of Southern Cuisine

This restaurant, known as 'Khanom Jeen Muang Kon', was highly recommended online as a must-try spot for authentic southern Thai cuisine. Offering both khanom jeen (rice noodles) and khao kaeng (curry with rice), the restaurant caters to a variety of preferences.

A set of khanom jeen costs 180 baht and comes with four different curries: น้ำยา (coconut curry), น้ำเคย (fermented shrimp paste curry), แกงไตปลา (fish innards curry), and น้ำพริก (chili paste). While the curries were undoubtedly delicious, they lacked the characteristic fiery spice of southern Thai cuisine. This suggests that the restaurant may have adjusted its flavors to appeal to a wider audience, including tourists who might not be accustomed to the intense heat.

After ordering a set of Khanom Jeen, I walked over to the display case of Southern Thai curries. I noticed a sign that read "Tod Mun," which looked unfamiliar compared to the Tod Mun I knew. Intrigued, I ordered a serving. The Tod Mun here consisted of deep-fried shrimp, likely coated in curry paste and batter, served on a bed of unidentified fried vegetables.

After finishing at the rice noodle shop, we called a taxi again. The taxi picked us up from the rice noodle shop and took us to the local bus stop. The fare for the local bus was 25 baht per person, but we were too lazy to wait, so we asked to charter the bus for 300 baht. I have to say, the driver was a real speed demon! He overtook on the right, cut corners, and honked at every car. Maybe he was a stand-in for Dom Toretto. It was an exhilarating ride!

After a 20-minute journey from the bus stop, we arrived at our accommodation, 'Nam Chai Klong'. After paying the driver, he asked us when and how we would be returning. For convenience, we arranged for him to pick us up and take us back to the city when we left. After exchanging numbers, we checked into our accommodation.

The accommodations here range from concrete houses with air conditioning to fan-cooled huts. Located by the water, the lack of air conditioning should not be a concern. During the day, the breeze keeps it cool, with occasional showers. At night, it can even get chilly. The accommodations, including the bathrooms, are clean and well-maintained. The towels provided are traditional Thai sarongs, adding to the rustic charm.

After settling into our accommodation, we embarked on a dusty train journey that lasted the entire night. Feeling hot and sticky, we decided to cool off in the stream behind the house. Despite the midday sun, the water was refreshingly cold, invigorating us after our long journey.

After emerging from the water, we all went our separate ways to rest and recharge. In the evening, we rented bicycles from our accommodation for 50 baht and cycled around the village, visiting the "evening market".

At Khao Kiri Wong, don't miss the 'stir-fried noodles', which are thin noodles cooked in a slightly sweet sauce with shrimp. They are served with fresh vegetables and a side of chopped sour mango to balance the flavors. Walking further, you will find 'rice salad' shops, 2-3 of them, popular with locals. However, we did not try them as we had already had them in Bangkok and did not enjoy them. Here, you can also find 'khanom ko', a dessert that is difficult to find in Bangkok. It is similar to 'khanom tom' but differs in that the filling is made of palm sugar lumps, not shredded coconut like 'khanom tom'. Continuing on, we came across a shop selling 'dried fish roe chili paste', which looked interesting as I enjoy spicy food. I bought a jar, and the taste was indeed spicy and hot. It was delicious with hot rice and fried eggs. I regret only buying one jar.

Next is the 'flying saucer snack' shop, where you can try a sample. It tastes similar to our rice cakes, but here they are made into large, round sheets with a sweet and savory flavor achieved by adding sugar. Unlike the rice cakes in Bangkok, they are not drizzled with palm sugar syrup.

A local vegetable vendor was selling large bundles of freshly picked vegetables at affordable prices. The vegetables looked tempting, but I refrained from buying them, as they would likely wilt and spoil by the time I reached Bangkok.

'Mixed salad, instant noodle salad, chicken salad, fiddlehead fern salad, etc.' The salad ingredients include shrimp, squid, chicken, sausage, etc. All salads are priced at 30 baht. You definitely can't find this price in Bangkok.

After returning from the evening market, we cycled back to our accommodation and ordered dinner to be served on a wooden platform behind the house. We ordered four dishes:

• 'Stir-fried fiddlehead fern with coconut milk' The dish had a fragrant and rich coconut milk flavor that complemented the coarsely chopped fresh shrimp and shallots well.
• 'Mixed vegetable and fish sour curry' Taro, raw papaya, melinjo nuts, and pineapple in a rich sour curry broth with a slightly sour taste from the asam fruit. I'm not sure what kind of fish it was, but the fish meat was fresh and sweet.
• 'Chili paste with fried acacia pennata' The fried acacia pennata was ordinary, but the chili paste was outstanding. It was made with good quality shrimp paste, fragrant, sour, salty, and slightly sweet.
• 'Omelette'

Overall, the food here is delicious, affordable, and generous in portion size. Four people could not finish it.

At 6:00 AM, the sound of roosters crowing could be heard as a light drizzle began to fall. After about 5 minutes, the rain stopped. After washing my face and brushing my teeth, I rode my bicycle to take pictures at the concrete bridge and then went to the "morning market".

I found a stall selling stir-fried noodles for 10 baht. I bought a portion to tide me over before breakfast at the hotel. It was tastier than the one I had at the night market yesterday. The noodles were chewier and the flavor was richer.

While cycling past the temple, I noticed a stall selling deep-fried dough sticks (youtiao) with a few locals waiting to buy some. I decided to join the queue and was rewarded with freshly fried, crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside, youtiao. The stall owner generously provided a complimentary sweet brown dipping sauce (sangkhaya) to go with the youtiao. She also recommended trying the rice noodles (khanom jeen) at her son's restaurant, located on the way to Nan Hin Tha Ha.

After returning from the market at around 7:00 AM, we had breakfast at the accommodation. The breakfast included chicken congee, youtiao, toast, sticky rice with shrimp, steamed buns, and orange juice. The congee was delicious, and I had two bowls. The other items were just okay. Oh, and the orange juice was Sunquick.

After breakfast, we agreed to cycle to 'Nan Hin Tha Ha', but it started to rain, so we went back to the guesthouse to relax. The guesthouse has hammocks in the backyard where you can lie down and listen to the sound of the waterfall. The weather was nice and it was very relaxing.

The rain stopped in the late morning, and we went to "Nang Hin Tha Ha", which is about 3 km from our accommodation. It is an uphill climb that is not too steep, and it would be tiring enough to cycle alone, but we were riding two people per bike, which made it very tiring. If you are going to go, it is better to ride one bike per person. We cycled for a while and then walked down. The sun was starting to get hot, and finally we arrived.

The atmosphere was pleasant, with a cool breeze and a moderate number of people swimming. There were inflatable ducks available for rent at 100 baht each. I would have liked to swim there myself, but I had brought just enough clothes and didn't want to get them wet. After enjoying the view and atmosphere for a while, we headed back down.

Before heading back down, don't forget to stop by and purchase the 'Durian wrapped in betel nut sheath and grilled', a renowned local delicacy. Unlike durian preserves from other regions, this unique treat features durian wrapped in betel nut sheaths and grilled, imparting a distinctive and aromatic flavor. A visit to Khao Kiri Wong is incomplete without trying this local specialty.

On the way down from Khao Nan Hin Ta Khao, on the left side, there is a "Look Jum Jeak" rice noodle shop recommended by the aunt who sells "Pa Thong Ko" at the morning market. If you order a plate, it costs 20 baht. We ordered a half-kilo set for 80 baht. This shop has a total of 5 types of curry: "Nam Prik Kapi", "Pu", "Tai Pla", "Nam Prik", and "Kua Kling Fak". However, we only ordered 4 types, excluding "Kua Kling Fak". The taste of the curry has been adjusted to be less spicy to suit tourists. However, for us, Southern food that is not spicy is like not having enough flavor. The "Tai Pla" tasted better than the one at the rice noodle shop in Muang Kon, while the other curries were just average.

After returning to the guesthouse, I showered, changed clothes, packed my belongings, and prepared to leave. At 11:00 am, I confirmed with the local songthaew driver to pick me up at the guesthouse at noon. At 11:50 am, he arrived and was waiting with the car. He even brought me several rose apples from his home as a gift. The rose apples were large, naturally sweet, and crispy. While waiting for the guesthouse to check the room, I chatted with the driver. His house is located a little further up from the guesthouse. He mentioned that if I visit during July-August, it would be the season when various fruits are in season, and I would be able to enjoy fruit picking and tasting.

We had Uncle take us to the restaurant 'Chaw Reua' in the city center. We had seen a review of this restaurant on Wongnai, which said it was excellent. Since we were already there, we couldn't miss the opportunity to try it. The dishes we ordered were the restaurant's recommendations:

• Turmeric-fried soft-bone fish, which was fried crispy, including the head, which was also edible. It was fragrant with fried garlic and served with a chili fish sauce.
• Head fish boiled with taro, served in a hot pot. The fish head was fried first and then boiled with mashed taro.
• Winged bean salad, with winged beans that were blanched in hot water. The dressing was made with chili paste, ground pork, and boiled fresh shrimp. The flavor was perfectly balanced.
• Fresh shrimp chili paste, which was a shrimp paste dip with coarsely chopped boiled fresh shrimp. It was sprinkled with fiery chili flakes that made our ears burn.
• Sun-dried beef, thinly sliced sun-dried beef that was fried hot and served with a thick dipping sauce.

The food at the restaurant "Seafarer" does not disappoint. The prices are in line with other restaurants in the city. The taste is good. If you have the opportunity to visit Nakhon Si Thammarat city, I recommend that you try this restaurant.

After a satisfying meal at the Sailor's Restaurant, we called a taxi to take us to the train station. We arrived at the station around 3 pm (the train departed at 3:35 pm). We had some time to browse the souvenir shops on the platform before rushing to board the train. The return journey was more comfortable, with sleeper berths and less crowding compared to the outward journey. Around 7 pm, the staff came to make our beds. Interestingly, there were no vendors selling food on the train during the return trip. We weren't sure if they didn't open the doors or if it was simply not allowed. Feeling hungry around 8:30 pm, we ordered food from the train's menu. The meal set, priced at 150 baht, included two dishes, rice, and a small bottle of orange juice. The orange juice was similar to the 5-baht bottled variety, not freshly squeezed. When the food arrived, all four of us were shocked by the discrepancy between the quality and the price.

Train food set, 150 baht.

If you have the opportunity to use a sleeper train, it is recommended that you bring your own food, as you may encounter a situation like ours where no vendors came to sell food and we were forced to order from the train, which was not ideal.

A Haven of Fresh Air: Exploring the Pristine Beauty of Khiriwong

Nestled amidst breathtaking natural landscapes, Khiriwong stands as a testament to Thailand's pristine beauty. This idyllic village boasts the title of "the best air in Thailand," a claim that holds undeniable truth.

Khiriwong's allure lies in its untouched natural splendor. Towering mountains, lush forests, and pristine rivers and streams paint a picture of tranquility and serenity. The village's inhabitants embrace a simple way of life, living in harmony with their surroundings.

For those seeking a respite from the hustle and bustle of modern life, Khiriwong offers the perfect escape. Its tranquil atmosphere invites relaxation and rejuvenation, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in the beauty of nature. The fresh, invigorating air is a balm for the soul, cleansing the mind and body.

Whether you yearn for quiet contemplation, breathtaking vistas, or simply the chance to breathe deeply and reconnect with nature, Khiriwong stands as an ideal destination. Its pristine environment and peaceful ambiance make it a haven for those seeking a truly restorative experience.

Expenses

• 3rd class train ticket: 243 THB/person
• Taxi from train station to Muang Kon noodle shop: 78 THB
• Taxi from Muang Kon noodle shop to songthaew stop: 64 THB
• Songthaew to Khao Kiri Wong: 300 THB
• Accommodation: 800 THB/night (2 people)
• Food at accommodation: 5xx THB
• Luk Lam Jia noodle shop: 110 THB
• Songthaew down from Khao Kiri Wong: 300 THB
• Seafood restaurant: 8xx THB
• Taxi from seafood restaurant to train station: 75 THB
• 1st class sleeper train ticket: 828 THB/person