Four years ago, during the civil war in the capital, many businesses were forced to close or collapse. I was one of those affected by the crisis. I was sent by the company to work in the southern province of Phang Nga. It was my first time working in a different province like this. I had to leave home for months, but it was better than being unemployed. However, the crisis also gave me the opportunity to do what I wanted to do: travel as I pleased. During the two months I spent in the province, which has many natural tourist attractions, I couldn't just sit around in my room on my days off. On my days off from work, I traveled around as much as I wanted. After exploring the many small islands in the Andaman Sea, I heard that there was a mountain near the place where I was working in Khao Lak that had a sea of fog to see in the morning. At that time, the place was not well known. I asked people in the area, but no one knew about it. I only knew that it was near the Ban Fai Tha School in Tung Maphrao Subdistrict,ท้ายเหมือง District. So that's how my trip to "Khai Nui Mountain" came about.
I relied on a friend to drive me to the front of Ban Fai Tha School. After asking the locals, they told me to drive further down the road and turn into the next alley. The road was a narrow, two-lane concrete road that led up a hill for about 3 kilometers. I saw a sign for "Baan Suan Chaiyanoi" and decided to go in and ask for information, but I couldn't find anyone. I told my friend to go back first, and I walked around the area. It looked like a homestay built in a rubber plantation forest with beautiful scenery. I could see the Thap Lamu pier, which is the point where boats depart for the various islands in the area. The atmosphere was breezy and relaxing, so I set up a hammock and took a nap until I woke up. The sun was setting and the wind had died down. Around 4 pm, I heard the sound of a motorcycle driving up.
A small, tanned man stepped off his motorbike and approached, asking in a local accent, "What are you doing here?" I explained that I was a tourist from Bangkok and wanted to visit Khai Nui Mountain. I had come to the homestay because I saw a sign saying there was transportation up the mountain, but I couldn't find anyone. The man said that I actually needed to contact the house across from the school down below, which belonged to Bang Nui, the owner of the Baan Suan Chai Nui homestay. He introduced himself as Bang Lek, Bang Nui's son, and offered to take me up Khai Nui Mountain on his motorbike. The path up the mountain wasn't far from Baan Suan Chai Nui, but it looked steep and slippery. It would be especially difficult during the rainy season. A regular two-wheel drive car wouldn't be able to handle it; a 4WD was necessary.
The area above is a wide open space that is currently being developed. From here, you can see views on both sides. The west side is next to the sea, while the east side overlooks a rubber plantation interspersed with small hills. In the morning, this area is often covered in a sea of fog. This open space is suitable for camping, but I didn't bring a tent, only a hammock. Luckily, there are two trees to tie it to. I set up the hammock and Bang Lek said he would come back tonight to keep me company. He went back down to get the tent and asked if I wanted anything. I asked if it was okay to drink alcohol, and Bang Lek said it was fine. I asked him to buy some liquor, soda, and snacks. While I was waiting, I walked around the area. The wind was cool and the sky looked like it might rain. I just hoped it wouldn't rain, but if it did, there was a shelter where I could sleep. Bang Lek came back with his younger brother to help carry the camping equipment and supplies for the night.
The bonfire was lit to chase away the darkness of the night. The air was cool and pleasant, and the stars peeked through the clouds from time to time. We chatted animatedly, discussing the history of Khao Khainui, owned by Bang Khainui and Bang Nui, who had a rubber plantation in the area. Later, students visited and named the hill Khao Khainui. We talked until late at night before retiring to our hammocks. Sleeping in a hammock without a flysheet was quite an experience. I gazed at the stars and the clouds drifting slowly by. The human mind is strange. From admiring the beauty of nature, I suddenly had strange imaginations. My senses were bombarded with images and strange sounds, probably due to the alcohol and the bedtime stories. I fell asleep without realizing it until dawn approached. I heard Bang Lek wake me up and tell me that the fog was starting to roll in.
Leaping out of bed, nearly falling out in the process, I was startled by the sound of the alarm. Turning to look, I was stunned for a moment before grabbing my camera, setting up the tripod, finding an angle, and pressing the shutter. I had never seen such a colorful sky before, gradually fading from dark blue to purple, pink, and orange as the sun began to rise. Meanwhile, the mist began to gather in the valley below, increasing in volume. Meeting the wind, it spread throughout the area, creating a mist of evaporated water that covered everything. The embers of the fire, not yet extinguished, were refueled to boil water for coffee to chase away the cold.
I explored other shooting angles and found a shelter. As I approached, the sun began to rise higher, and the thick fog gradually dissipated, revealing the stunning sea of mist below. The shelter served as a perfect foreground element, adding depth and context to the scene.
The undulating mountain range in front of us is part of the same range as the Lampee Mountains, located within the Khao Lampee-Hat Thai Mueang National Park. In the distance, a large mountain can be seen faintly. This is Phu Ta Jiao, a famous viewpoint for sea mist in Phang Nga, located in Kapong District. Personally, I think the view in the early morning hours, as the sun rises and casts a golden glow over everything, is similar to that of Thung Salang Luang. Once the sun rises a bit higher, it resembles the sea mist on the Phang Nga side of the mountains.
Thank you to Bang Lek for his friendship on this trip. Currently, Khai Nui has changed a lot. It has become a community tourism business with many homestays built by local residents.
List of Accommodations on Khao Khainui
Homestay Baan Suan Chaiyanoi, a house in the mist owned by Bang Lek and Bang Nui. Contact 089-5931432.
Homestay Bang Khai, contact 093-2278671, 088-8261083
Baan Rabeang Moke Bang Ya 080-8928737
All accommodations provide dinner, or you can barbecue, but you must contact them in advance.
Travel
He Khai Nui, located in Ao Luek District, Krabi Province, is situated near the border of Phang Nga Province. To reach He Khai Nui from Phuket, follow these directions: 1. Start your journey from Phuket and head towards Phang Nga Province. 2. Once you enter Phang Nga, continue driving on Phetkasem Road towards Khao Lak. 3. Upon reaching Tung Maphrao Subdistrict, look for a large sign indicating the turnoff for Route 4240. 4. Turn right onto Route 4240 and stay on the left lane. 5. Drive past Ban Fai Tham School for approximately 1 kilometer. 6. Look for a small alley with a sign and turn left into it. Following these directions will lead you to He Khai Nui.
Bang Lek and his younger brother
Bang Nui, the father of Bang Lek, the pioneer of Khao Khai Nui.
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Wednesday, February 26, 2025 4:47 PM