One Day in Bangkok: The Kudeejeen Community
Inspired by the recent trend of historical drama tourism, we embarked on a journey to explore the Kudeejeen community, a historical landmark featured in the popular detective drama "Kahlum Haruek." This community, located in Thonburi and Phra Nakhon districts, is home to a vibrant Thai-Portuguese community that migrated from Ayutthaya after its fall in 1767.
Our journey began with a scenic boat ride from Sathorn Pier, accessible via the BTS Skytrain from Anusawari BTS Station to Saphan Taksin BTS Station (42 baht fare). The boat ride offered a relaxing and picturesque view of the city's skyline.
Upon arriving at the Kudeejeen pier, we were greeted by the charming atmosphere of the community. The narrow alleyways lined with colorful shophouses and traditional Thai houses transported us back in time. We explored the community's rich history through its various landmarks, including the Holy Rosary Church, the Kudeejeen Museum, and the Wat Kalayanamit.
The Holy Rosary Church, built in 1786, is the oldest Catholic church in Bangkok and a testament to the community's Portuguese heritage. The Kudeejeen Museum, housed in a beautifully restored traditional Thai house, showcases the community's unique culture and traditions. Wat Kalayanamit, a vibrant Buddhist temple, offers a glimpse into the community's religious beliefs and practices.
Our exploration of the Kudeejeen community provided a fascinating glimpse into Bangkok's rich history and cultural diversity. The community's unique blend of Thai and Portuguese influences, its historical significance, and its charming atmosphere make it a must-visit destination for anyone interested in exploring the hidden gems of Bangkok.
Our journey begins at the Victory Monument.
Tickets purchased, let's embark on our journey.
It didn't take long to reach Saphan Taksin Station. From there, we walked to Sathorn Pier to board the Chao Phraya Express Boat.
We bought tickets for the orange flag boat, which costs 15 baht per person. The price is the same all the way to Nonthaburi pier.
The boat has arrived. We will continue our journey to the Atsadang Pier to take a ferry across the river. Passengers can disembark at two piers: Queen's Pier and Phuttha Bridge Pier.
Along the way, enjoy the beautiful views of the tall buildings, houses, and the banks of the Chao Phraya River.
We disembarked at the Phuttha Bridge pier, where we had to walk through the mouth of the canal to the Atsadang pier to catch another ferry across the river.
Yodpiman River Walk is a riverside market with a variety of goods to browse and purchase.
The tiles are beautiful, so I stopped by to take a look.
We walked along the riverside walkway of the Yodpiman Riverwalk project. It took a while because there were many beautiful photo spots to capture.
The Church of Santa Cruz that we are going to is located directly opposite the Yodpiman River Walk project.
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After paying a 5 baht fare, I walked down to board the ferry across the river to Wat Kalyanamitr Pier.
After a short and enjoyable boat ride across the Chao Phraya River, we arrived at Wat Kalyanamit. Disembarking, we walked left towards the Kudi Chin community, where we encountered our first destination, the Kian An Keng Shrine.
Kian An Keng Shrine
The Kian An Keng Shrine, also known as the Guan Yin Shrine, is a Hokkien Chinese temple located in the Kudi Chin community on the banks of the Chao Phraya River. It is considered one of the oldest shrines in Thon Buri, dating back over a century. The shrine is also a significant setting in the novel "Ka-lom Haruek."
Kian An Keng Temple
An old house still inhabited is located along the Chao Phraya River. Not far from there, you will find the entrance to Santa Cruz Church.
Santa Cruz Church
Santa Cruz Church, also known as Wat Kudi Chin, is a church built on land granted by King Taksin. The first church was made of wood and served as a place of worship for the Christian community after the relocation of the capital from Ayutthaya. Later, a second church was built, resembling a Chinese shrine, and named Santa Cruz Church. However, most people refer to it as Wat Kudi Chin.
After admiring the beauty of Santa Cruz Church, let's grab a bite to eat at a restaurant located right in front of the temple entrance.
Helo Milk Shop
The highlight of this restaurant is the chicken curry noodles, also known as "khanom jeen nam ya kai." This dish is a culinary heritage of Thai people of Portuguese descent and is traditionally served at auspicious occasions like weddings. It is a rare delicacy featuring rice noodles topped with a rich chicken curry broth containing meat, blood, and finely chopped innards. The dish is garnished with yellow chilies, offering a flavor profile similar to Thai chicken curry.
This corner seat offers a view of the Chao Phraya River.
Delicious, isn't it?
Order a Chinese dress set with rice noodles, samosas and drinks for only 69 baht.
Having finished our Khanom Jeen, we set off in search of the highlight of our visit to the Kudi Chin community: the renowned Kudi Chin Farang cookies.
Capture stunning photos against a backdrop of vibrant graffiti murals.
The Lion's Bow Shop
In search of the community's renowned delicacy, we stumbled upon the famed "Khanom Farang Ku Dee Jeen," a must-try for any visitor. Our destination was Thano Sing, a bakery with a five-generation legacy. The hallmark of this pastry lies in its unique preparation, using duck eggs, flour, and sugar, meticulously whisked to a fluffy consistency without the aid of baking powder or yeast. The final touch involves a generous sprinkle of raisins, candied pumpkin, and persimmon, followed by a dusting of sugar before baking to achieve a delightful crisp exterior. Unable to resist the temptation, we ordered a cup of drip coffee and savored the freshly baked treat. The aroma of eggs filled the air as we took our first bite, revealing a texture akin to egg cake, yet with a denser consistency. The pairing with coffee proved to be an absolute delight.
Open-Close: Tuesday - Sunday, 9:30 AM - 6:00 PM.
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The shop is currently baking French bread.
Freshly baked French pastries from Ku De Chin.
The shop offers two types of pastries. This one is the larger size, priced at 40 baht per piece.
Small size 3 pieces, price per pack 45 baht
At Singha Archery, there are tables for you to sit and enjoy snacks, and they also offer drinks. So we ordered coffee, which the shop uses a drip brewing method to make it even more fragrant and delicious.
Let's enjoy the snacks and coffee together.
Freshly baked Kudeejeen Farang cookies are fragrant with the aroma of eggs. Their texture is similar to egg cookies, but Kudeejeen Farang cookies have a denser texture. They are delicious when paired with coffee.
Those who visit the Guti Jie community should not miss this. From there, we turned right out of the shop to continue to the Guti Jie House Museum.
Guti Jie House Museum
A cultural learning center that showcases the history, language, religion, and roots of the Portuguese-descended Kudi Chin community, dating back to the Ayutthaya period. The museum has three floors and a rooftop observation deck offering stunning panoramic views of the surrounding community. Admission is free, but visitors can support the museum by purchasing souvenirs or enjoying food and beverages. The beautiful setting and relaxing atmosphere make it an ideal spot to unwind and enjoy a drink.
Baan Kudichin Museum
Free admission
Facebook: Baan Kudichin Museum
The museum, spanning three floors, showcases the history of the Portuguese in Thailand. It features exhibits on Portuguese artifacts, markets, cuisine, and language, offering a fascinating glimpse into their unique culture.
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The rooftop offers panoramic views of the surrounding Guti Chinese community and the Chao Phraya River.
The location is shady and beautiful. It's a great place to relax and enjoy a drink.
The museum offers free admission. Visitors who wish to support the museum can purchase souvenirs or enjoy food and beverages.
After exploring the serene community of Guti Jie, a hidden gem nestled amidst the bustling metropolis, one cannot help but marvel at its resilience in preserving its unique identity against the relentless tide of time.
Before returning, we stopped by Wat Kalyanamitr Varamahavihara.
Wat Kalyanamitr Varamahavihara
This royal temple is located at the mouth of the southern Bangkok Yai Canal. Phraya Nikornbodin, then Phraya Rachasuphawadi, the head of the Department of Phra Surawadi Klang, had great faith in Buddhism. He dedicated his house and bought nearby land to build a temple in the year of the Rooster, B.E. 2568, and then offered it as a royal temple. King Rama III bestowed the name "Wat Kalyanamitr". He built a viharn and a large principal Buddha image called Phra Phutthathrirattananayok (Luang Pho To) or, in Chinese, "Samphohutkong or Sampokong", in the attitude of subduing Mara.
Walking out to the pier, you can see the prang of Wat Arun Ratchawararam Ratchawaramahawihan in the distance. Visitors with time to spare can take a boat tour to Wat Arun Ratchawararam Ratchawaramahawihan and Wat Ratchabophit Sathit Maha Simaram Ratchawaramahawihan.
Directions to the Guti Chinese community
Travel by BTS and Ferry:
- Take the BTS Skytrain to Taksin Station.
- Transfer to the Chao Phraya Express Boat and disembark at Phra Phuttha Yodfa Bridge.
- Take a cross-river ferry from Tha Asdang to Tha Kanlayanamit.
- Upon arrival, follow the riverside path to reach the Guti Chinese community.
By car
Park at Wat Kalyanamitr and walk to the community.
After visiting the Guti Chinese community, we decided to end our trip with a Chinese meal, dim sum. On the way back, we took the BTS to Chit Lom and walked to Pratunam intersection to have a dim sum buffet at the Mulberry Restaurant, The Berkeley Hotel Pratunam.
Here's a sneak peek to whet your appetite. A full review will be coming soon, so stay tuned for more deliciousness. In the meantime, the restaurant is offering a special promotion. The regular price is 699 baht per person, but now you can enjoy it for only 599 baht per person, including drinks.
How was it with Adi's relaxed one-day trip review in Bangkok? See you again on the next trip.
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Wednesday, February 26, 2025 4:57 PM