Just want to go out: What's there in Nakhon Si Thammarat?

"Let's go on a trip and see what Nakhon Si Thammarat has to offer."

Nakhon Si Thammarat: A City Steeped in History and Natural Beauty

Nakhon Si Thammarat, affectionately known as "Mueang Kon," boasts a rich history and vibrant culture. This southern Thai city offers a captivating blend of ancient traditions, stunning natural landscapes, and a warm, welcoming community.

A Tapestry of Culture and Heritage:

Nakhon Si Thammarat's historical significance is evident in its numerous ancient temples, intricate art forms, and time-honored traditions. The city's cultural tapestry is woven with centuries-old customs, vibrant festivals, and a deep respect for its heritage.

Nature's Playground:

Beyond its cultural treasures, Nakhon Si Thammarat is blessed with an abundance of natural wonders. Lush rainforests, pristine beaches, cascading waterfalls, and hidden caves offer a haven for adventure and exploration. The city's diverse ecosystems provide a sanctuary for a rich array of flora and fauna, making it a paradise for nature enthusiasts.

Embracing Local Experiences:

Local Alike, a unique travel initiative, invites visitors to experience the authentic charm of Nakhon Si Thammarat through the lens of its local communities. By immersing oneself in community-based tourism, travelers gain a deeper understanding of the city's cultural nuances and contribute directly to its sustainable development.

Unveiling the Hidden Gems:

The "Nakhon Si Thammarat Mee Rai Ni" campaign unveils the city's hidden treasures, encouraging exploration and discovery. From ancient ruins to vibrant markets, from breathtaking natural wonders to local culinary delights, Nakhon Si Thammarat offers a wealth of experiences waiting to be unearthed.

A Journey Awaits:

So, pack your bags and embark on an unforgettable journey to Nakhon Si Thammarat. Immerse yourself in its rich history, embrace its vibrant culture, and discover the hidden gems that await. Let the city's magic captivate you and create memories that will last a lifetime.

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A Land of Legends: Elephant Taming, Superior Rubber, Abundant Fruits, and the Revered Father Klai's Words of Power

This is 'Chang Klang District', the first stop on our journey through #WhatNakhonSiHasToOffer. Here, legends of elephant taming intertwine with the cultivation of high-quality rubber, the abundance of fruit trees, and the revered words of Father Klai, a figure of immense spiritual significance.

Our first stop was at the 'Thai Beekeeping Group in Khlong Piek Nua Village'. The uncle told us that these bees are migratory bees that migrate seasonally from Chanthaburi to Nakhon Si Thammarat. The aunt wanted us to try the real honey from the hive and demonstrated how to collect the honeycombs, which made us and the group retreat about 0.10 kilometers away. The honeycomb obtained will look like this. The sweet honey will be inside this hive. How can the bees make such a neat nest? It's like 3D printing, all the same size. It's amazing.

Upon exposing the honeycomb to sunlight, its translucent nature reveals the golden honey within, showcasing its exquisite beauty.

The community harvests the products from the beehives, resulting in pure honey from fresh combs.

"This is how honey is extracted. If you want it even fresher and more authentic, you'll have to get it directly from the bees."

We were also offered a taste, which was incredibly sweet and fragrant. However, the secret ingredient remains a mystery.

Aun Kritsachit, Thai Beehive Raising Group, Baan Khlong Piek Nuea

After the sweetness of honey, we had to move on to something savory. We traveled to the 'Khon Keng Sustainable Agriculture Group', where our uncles, aunts, and older siblings welcomed us with a traditional lunch. This was our first southern meal, and the flavors were much bolder than the southern curries we find in Bangkok.

The hands-on tie-dye workshop has begun! Tie the fabric according to your desired style and wait to see what patterns emerge. To prevent unwanted areas from being dyed, tie them tightly. Next, dip the tied fabric into a pot of hot, natural dye that has been preheated. After a brief hot dyeing process, remove the fabric and rinse it with clean water. Finally, slowly untie the fabric and unveil the unique patterns.

Behold! This is a unique pattern, one of a kind in the world.

The 'Sustainable Kankhan Garden Group' is officially supported by the team of aunties and the village headman, who are community supporters.

The stream along the path was filled with smooth, round stones of various sizes, cascading down in a gentle flow. The crystal-clear water was refreshingly cool to the touch.

At this point, there is a concrete bridge crossing a stream with a water gate to slow down the flow of water.

The bridge on the weir should be positioned in the center, with the railing leading the viewer's eye towards the (reluctant) model. This will create a photo similar to this one. If she looks up at the sky, it will be even cooler.

The next stop is 'Wat Suan Khan', where you can pay respects to the spirit of Father Than Klae, the holy man with the powerful words, inside his kuti, which still contains his belongings, just as they were.

Within the same building, the belongings and furniture of the individual are arranged as a museum, open for public viewing.

The next station is 'Khanom La', a traditional southern Thai dessert. It is one of the five types of desserts made to offer to monks during the tenth lunar month merit-making ceremony.

At this station, we have to make it before we can taste it.

Begin by centering yourself, taking slow, deep breaths. Gently sprinkle flour onto the pan, swirling and weaving it into a thin sheet. Wait a moment for the flour to cook, then use a fork to fold the dough into pieces.

Eat.

And these are the community's professional pastry chefs, closely controlling production, with the first generation of pastry chefs passing down their skills from generation to generation.

The next station, "Wat Rat Bamrung," is located within a temple where a 25-meter-tall statue of Father Than Klaai Wa Ja Si is being constructed. The construction is driven by the deep respect and faith the community holds for Father Than Klaai, allowing devotees to pay their respects to his powerful blessings.

This temple, known as 'Wat That Noi', features a majestic Lanna-style stupa standing tall at its center. The stupa's design mirrors that of the revered Phra Borommathat Chedi in Nakhon Si Thammarat, hence the origin of the temple's name, Wat That Noi. Within the stupa lies the enshrined remains of the revered monk, Father Klai Waqasitthi.

The body of the revered monk is preserved within a glass coffin, remaining uncorrupted and believed to have hardened into stone. This allows devotees to pay their respects to his physical remains.

This completes the three auspicious elements of paying homage to Father Klai Waajasiri, the monk with the sacred words: spirit, merit, and physical body.

We embarked on a journey to witness the mesmerizing sunset at 'Khao Hmen Resort,' a haven that offers both accommodation and authentic Southern Thai cuisine. Nestled amidst the breathtaking vistas of 'Khao Hmen,' a mountain revered as the 'Mount Fuji of Thailand,' the resort stands majestically before us. This mountain boasts nature trails and camping facilities, promising an unforgettable encounter with nature's wonders. We shall surely cross paths, so wait for me.

The new day began before the rooster crowed. We went to the morning market in front of the Khlong Chan Di Railway Station. It was a fresh market with both savory and sweet food to try. The younger sibling was selling "Kathoong Song Krueng" (a Thai fruit salad). Today was a school holiday, so the younger sibling was helping their mother sell goods.

The piercing sound of a train whistle echoed through the air, and soon the train slowly pulled into the platform. Inside the station, the ticket counter and waiting area remained unchanged, just as they were when we were children. Back then, anyone who had the chance to use the station would have definitely stood on the large iron scales used for weighing goods. And this is the morning market as seen from the station.

As children, did we wave to passing trains?

This is the local specialty of the southern region, the land of sataw. You won't find sataw in the fresh market. 'Young jackfruit' is simply a more advanced version of sataw. 'Banana blossom' is called 'banana heart' here. It's a great side dish for Pad Thai, and it can also be served with Khanom Jeen, Yum rice, and even used as an ingredient in Tom Yum and curry. 'Wild betel leaf' is highly recommended, especially when it's turned into boiled wild betel leaf in coconut milk, served with chili paste and fried mackerel, accompanied by hot steamed rice. Oh my, it's delicious!

‘Khanom Wuak’ is a deep-fried pastry made by stuffing minced pork with spices into a dough and then deep-frying it. It resembles a fried bun, where the ingredients are poured into a ‘jwack’ and then deep-fried in boiling oil. The shape of the pastry resembles the interior of the ‘jwack’ itself.

Note: In Southern Thai, the word ‘jwack’ is shortened to ‘hwak’.

The interior of the "Nom Wua Khao La" is filled with a sweet and sour dipping sauce. Just by looking at the picture, we can clearly remember its taste.

Halfway through our journey, our stomachs began to rumble. We decided to stop at 'Chan Dee Ocha,' a historic tea and coffee shop in the Khlong Chan Dee community that has been serving customers for over three thousand years. Okay, maybe not that long!

The shop uses condensed milk cans as cups for their tea and coffee, which are tied with string for easy carrying. We love this unique touch.

The owner, Mr. Sae, still brews, sells, and chats with regular and new customers every day. However, you need to speak loudly as Mr. Sae has some hearing difficulties.

Translation:

Less than 5 minutes from the train station, there is a railway bridge with a sign that reads "100-Year Curved Bridge, Chandi." Naturally, the group could not miss this spot.

"Sister Som said, 'Take a picture of me, take a picture of me.'"

After leaving Khlong Chan, we stopped for a late breakfast at 'Ruen Rao', a restaurant recommended by locals for its 'Bak Kut Teh'.

Fresh from the oven.

Before eating, what should we do? Oh, you're pretending to forget. Okay, okay. Grab your chopsticks and get ready to pick up the food. And don't forget to smile, smile a lot.

The food here is amazing, the engine is powerful, and it makes a "whoosh" sound when you accelerate. However, the price is not as advertised. It says 70 baht per unit, but it actually costs 140 baht. We accidentally ordered a double portion, haha.

At the end of the 'Elephant Middle' route, we must express our deepest gratitude to Khun P'Ke, our Elephant Middle navigator, for her invaluable assistance.

The sweet mangosteen city, the developed village, the beautiful cave,
The majestic Khlong Thom waterfall, tracing the legend of the rice barn.

Here, 'Lansaka District', the community on our second route and second day.

Translation:

"Let's start here at 'Wat Chedi,' an ancient temple in Lanska district. It serves as a center of faith for local residents."

The temple houses the 'Phra Mangkud', an ancient Buddha statue that has been a symbol of the town since ancient times.

This station will take us to visit the 'ancient mangosteen tree', the oldest mangosteen tree in Lansaka district, over 800 years old.

Look at the height of Grandpa Mangosteen. Wow!

Next, we visited the 'Ancient Mangosteen Garden', led by 'Uncle Cheth', the owner of the garden himself.

This is an ancient mangosteen orchard, with most of the trees being at least 100 years old. Just look at their size and height! In all the other mangosteen orchards I've visited, the trees are no more than 5 meters tall, but here… wow!

After strolling around the garden, our stomachs began to rumble. Upon returning to the 'khanam' in the middle of the garden, the aunt had already prepared a delicious lunch spread for us.

(Khanam refers to a hut or shelter built in a rice field or garden.)

The reputation of southern Thai cuisine as intensely spicy is well-known. One might assume that every dish is overwhelmingly hot. However, upon experiencing a traditional southern Thai meal, it becomes clear that this is not the case. A well-balanced southern spread features a spicy main course, complemented by salty side dishes and a sweet and sour element. This interplay of flavors creates a harmonious experience, ensuring that the spiciness does not overwhelm the palate.

Translation:

"The 'dok da la' or 'dok ka la' flower, a member of the ginger family, has a sour, astringent, and slightly bitter taste. It is often finely chopped and added to rice salad."

After a satisfying meal, we continued our journey to the 'Ancient Palace'. It is said that during the reign of King Sri Dharmasokaraj, an epidemic broke out. The king evacuated the population from the city. According to historical records, they came to this place. When the epidemic subsided, the king returned to Nakhon Si Thammarat permanently.

This place then became 'Wat Nam Rop', but the temple was later relocated. Later, Phra Kru Khab Khung restored the temple and installed a replica of King Sri Dharmasokaraj.

A replica of the statue of King Dharmashoka inside the ancient palace

Translation:

Within twenty minutes, we arrived at "Wang Sai Waterfall," where crystal-clear water flowed, revealing the fish beneath. Surrounded by verdant mountains and lush greenery, the atmosphere was serene, perfect for swimming, relaxing, and immersing oneself in a favorite book.

After a satisfying day of sightseeing, our stomachs began to rumble, leading us to the 'Suan Sang Boon Market'. This market is a hub for local vendors selling delicious food and unique souvenirs.

Start with dessert first.

And then, with a hungry rage, there was a loud boom.

Nestled amidst the shade of trees, the market offers a relaxing atmosphere with seating areas for visitors to enjoy. The ambiance is pleasant and inviting.

Our deepest gratitude to Sak for his invaluable contributions to the Lanska project.

Arriving in Nakhon Si Thammarat: A Journey of Nature and Spirituality

Having immersed ourselves in the natural beauty of Nakhon Si Thammarat, it would be remiss not to explore its spiritual side. On the third day of our journey, we ventured into the heart of the community, seeking solace and enlightenment.

Our destination: Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan, affectionately known as Wat Phra That. This sacred site has served as a spiritual anchor for Nakhon Si Thammarat for centuries. Within its walls lies the revered Phra Borommathat Chedi, a bell-shaped stupa of Sri Lankan design. Its golden spire, adorned with intricate beadwork woven with gold wire, houses the sacred relics of Lord Buddha.

Passing through the cloister surrounding the main stupa, one encounters approximately 90 smaller bell-shaped stupas, resembling miniature versions of the main stupa. This area is designated for devotees to pay homage and worship.

The popular ritual is the 'carrying of cloth to the pagoda'. It is believed that whoever brings cloth to the pagoda and makes a wish will have their wish granted. During Makha Bucha Day and Visakha Bucha Day, there will be a procession of cloth to the pagoda, which is like a major annual event in Nakhon Si Thammarat. Many believers will come together to participate in this event.

The sign caused confusion for two minutes. The word "ดับ" in this context may be an abbreviation of "ประดับตกแต่ง" (decorate). Overall, the sign means "Do not arrange or collect shoes under any circumstances."

This is a chance to try "Mangosteen Krad," which is unripe mangosteen that has been peeled, deseeded, and soaked in limewater. It is then skewered and ready to eat.

Nakhon Si Thammarat is renowned for its silverware, and the 'Nakhon Handicrafts Group' is a must-visit for those seeking to experience this tradition. This group is dedicated to the production and preservation of high-quality silverware, and Kru Nikom, a master silversmith with over 30 years of experience, is a testament to the group's commitment to preserving this art form.

This passage describes the process of creating a silver bracelet with niello inlay. The first step is to hammer a design onto the silver. Next, the design is filled with a black substance called niello. Finally, the bracelet is polished to create a smooth and shiny surface. The passage also mentions that visitors can try their hand at making their own niello bracelet, taking home a unique souvenir.

With meticulous care and dedication,
"Pak, pak, pak, pak, whoooaaa!" Hit the hand, haha.

We didn't miss out either, let's have some fun! Yay!

The local shops offer a wide selection of silver jewelry, a specialty of Nakhon Si Thammarat. The quality and prices are attractive and inviting.

This is 'Ga-yu caramel', a traditional southern Thai dessert. It is made with cashew nuts coated in sugar, resulting in a sweet, chewy, and crunchy treat. (In southern Thailand, cashew nuts are called 'hua krog', 'med lor', 'ya rueng', 'tai lor', or 'ga-yu'.)

In addition, the 'fried jackfruit', a local fruit from the southern region, is a step up from jackfruit in both smell and taste. They have transformed the fruit into a snack by coating it in batter and deep-frying it. The batter on the outside is crispy, while the inside is soft, tender, and sweet. The ripe seeds are sweet and creamy. You must try it.

Having explored the realm of exquisite handicrafts, we now turn our attention to the renowned cultural art form of southern Thailand. Our journey takes us to the 'National Artist House of Nang Talung Suchart Traiphansin', the residence of a master Nang Talung puppeteer and a highly skilled leather carving artisan from the city of Nakhon Si Thammarat.

The Legacy of Shadow Puppets: A Conversation with Kru Watee Traiphansin

Kru Watee Traiphansin, a second-generation shadow puppet master, carries the torch of his father, Kru Suchart Traiphansin, in preserving and promoting this unique art form. In a recent interview, Kru Watee delved into the history of Thai shadow puppetry, drawing comparisons with similar traditions from other cultures. He emphasized the multifaceted experience offered at the Baan Silapin (House of Artists), encompassing a museum of antique shadow puppets, workshops on puppet carving, and live shadow puppet performances.

The Art of Kru Watee: A Glimpse into Thai Shadow Puppetry

Kru Watee, a skilled puppeteer and narrator, brings the ancient art of Nang Talung shadow puppetry to life. Traditionally, Nang Talung performances revolve around folktales, local events, and political satire, interweaving humor into almost every scene to captivate the audience.

The performance begins with a ritualistic setup, including the arrangement of the stage, the unveiling of the puppets, and the invocation of deities. Following these formalities, Kru Watee engages in a captivating dialogue with the puppets, setting the stage for the unfolding narrative.

'เติ้ล' and 'ภูมิ', two young boys captivated by the magic of shadow puppetry, became disciples of Master Watee. In their free time, they diligently practiced the art, from carving the leather puppets to reciting the verses and playing the accompanying music. Their eyes sparkled with determination and pride in their pursuit.

The next section is the 'Ancient Shadow Puppet Museum'. In the entrance hall, there are pictures of Kru Suchart and Kru Watee presenting shadow puppetry to King Rama IX. It is a corner of pride. The second floor is a shadow puppet museum, displaying shadow puppets and performance equipment for visitors to see. There are shadow puppets that are 50-100 years old and shadow puppets from other countries.

The third step is carving the shadow puppets. Master Watee demonstrates the process of hammering the leather puppets. Cowhide and buffalo hide are preferred for their thickness and durability. After tanning, the leather becomes translucent, allowing for vibrant colors that do not appear opaque. This is a delicate task that requires both precision and force when using the hammer.

Upon witnessing the teacher's skillful hammering, our group was eager to try their hand at it. The teacher had prepared paper-leather shapes for the children and us to practice our hammering skills.

On one occasion, when Khru Suchart presented a shadow puppet to His Majesty the King, His Majesty remarked, "Shadow puppetry is an art form and cultural heritage. Help to pass it on. Don't be possessive of your knowledge." Following His Majesty's words, Khru Suchart and Khru Watee transformed their home into a museum, collecting antique shadow puppets for study and converting their home into a learning center. They shared their knowledge with tourists, students, and anyone else who wished to learn and become their disciples. Khru Watee carried out this work in accordance with what his father had taught him, which was:

Translation:

"Toiling for oneself, one's life is shrouded in darkness. Toiling for a noble cause, one's legacy endures."

Translation:

Kru Watee Traiphansin

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