The first image, "Lost City of Mahendraparvata," depicts the lost capital of the Khmer Empire.

We are proud to say that we are the first "Thai" group to venture into the Khmer Rouge territory and discover "Mahendraparvata", the first lost ancient capital of the Khmer Empire, five years before the world saw the actual images. Here are the images and our story from that time...

The Sydney Morning Herald reported on the discovery of "Mahendraparvata," the ancient capital of Cambodia, where King Jayavarman II was crowned king of the Khmer Empire and the concept of Devaraja was established over 1212 years ago.

A team of surveyors used a tool called "LiDAR" (Light Detection and Ranging data) mounted on a helicopter to fly in a criss-cross pattern over a mountain north of Angkor Wat for seven days. The LiDAR's lasers penetrated the dense canopy, allowing archaeologists to visualize what appears to be the remains of an ancient city hidden within the heart of the mountain, amidst the thick jungle.

This revelation has propelled Phnom Kulen to prominence, eclipsing the previously renowned "Phra Ong Thom" or "Great Buddha," a reclining Buddha statue carved from stone on the celestial sanctuary atop Phnom Kulen.

The Khmer Rouge's historical control over Phnom Kulen, coupled with its dense jungle terrain, has made it a challenging area for exploration. Despite the Khmer Rouge's demise, the mountain's paths remain riddled with landmines, posing a significant obstacle to access.

After a restful night, we woke up early the next morning in Siem Reap…

To ascend Phnom Kulen Mountain, all visitors must purchase an archaeological site entrance ticket. In Cambodia, the entrance fee for foreign visitors is set at 20 USD per person.

However, the most important rule to remember when visiting Phnom Kulen is that access is strictly limited to mornings before noon. Ascending the mountain in the afternoon is prohibited, as this is the designated time for all vehicles to descend. The narrow road leading up Phnom Kulen makes it impossible for cars to pass each other, creating a safety hazard. To avoid such situations, Cambodian authorities have implemented a system where tourist vehicles can only ascend in the morning and descend in the afternoon. Violators who disregard this rule and attempt to drive against the flow of traffic face severe consequences, including imprisonment without the option of paying a fine.

After breakfast, our driver took us from Siem Reap to Phnom Kulen. The journey took three hours. Upon arrival at the foot of the mountain, we presented our tickets to the officials for inspection. The road leading up the mountain was a narrow dirt and gravel road, barely wide enough for one car. If two cars were to meet, one would have to reverse to a wider section to allow the other to pass. Even motorbikes would struggle to pass each other on this narrow road.

During our journey in Cambodia, we learned that finding food can be difficult. Unsanitary food can lead to stomach problems. Therefore, the only way to ensure a supply of food was to buy fruit and keep it in the car. The easiest fruit to eat and find was bananas. We bought several bunches of egg bananas and lady finger bananas, which are abundant on Phnom Kulen, to eat during our trip.

After nearly an hour's drive up the mountain, we crossed the bridge to the front of the courtyard of Wat Phra Ong Thom, which the Khmer people call "Wat Phra Yai" (Big Buddha Temple). However, our guide did not let us stop at this temple, as we had a more important destination. Today, we were to be the first documentary film crew from Thailand to travel to an ancient Khmer city, estimated to be 1212 years old, which is still not widely known as it was only recently discovered.

From the front of the temple of Angkor Thom, we turned right onto a small path that was only a cart track, full of muddy lanes and rough stones. We rarely encountered a village or two. It was a deserted path, overgrown with wet rainforest, full of moss and lichen on the rocks on both sides of the road. Many times I thought that our car would not be able to pass, but the driver was very skilled and got us through every obstacle. The guide told us that...

"Don't speak in omens, don't say it's impossible. Say it's possible, because if it's truly impossible, we'll have to walk a long way."

For many years, Phnom Kulen has been under the control of the Khmer Rouge. Even today, many Khmer Rouge still reside in Phnom Kulen, making many people hesitant to venture off the beaten path to visit ancient sites due to safety concerns.

From our travels, we can confidently say that the local people are very hospitable. However, some may be inquisitive due to their experiences with various events. They might engage in conversations that make us feel uncomfortable. It's best to simply talk to them, as they mean no harm. Just ensure you don't break any of their laws or act suspiciously. Otherwise, they will quickly report you to the authorities in an attempt to gain favor.

We drove through the muddy lane along the cart path to the temple "Peryiakran" or "Wat Phra Kan", which is located on the top of Phnom Kulen mountain on the way to the abandoned temple in the old city. We parked our car here because there was a monk who was the abbot who could speak some Thai. He kindly lent us a joint and gave water bottles to the temple boys and the village children who lived nearby and volunteered to take us for a walk into the forest with him.

The newly constructed Wat Phra Kaew, also known as Wat Periyakran, has been in existence for less than a decade since the opening of Phnom Kulen to tourists. The abbot, who previously served as a monk in Thailand, has gradually garnered the support of local residents in the construction of the temple, which has evolved into a stunning and captivating landmark. Its strategic location serves as a resting point for visitors before embarking on the 7-kilometer trek to the ancient ruins of Tevaley, a remote forested sanctuary accessible solely by foot.

On the day of our visit, Indian and Western tourists hired motorbikes for 400 baht each to ascend from the base of Wat Phra Ong Thom to the temple. This saved us considerable effort, as the trek through the forest was tiring and challenging. Despite the arduous journey, it was undoubtedly worth the time and money spent to reach this remarkable destination.

Amidst the gentle drizzle, we traversed the stone courtyard behind Wat Phra Kaew and entered the forest. We followed a narrow path, occasionally encountering puddles and rocky outcrops that required us to clamber over them. We noticed motorcycle tire tracks leading in a different direction, but the children who were guiding us advised us not to follow that route, assuring us that their path was shorter.

Despite the short distance, it took us over 3 hours to hike just 7 kilometers.

The sight of the abandoned temple, with its remaining stone carvings of mythical creatures—a qilin, a garuda, an elephant, and a cow—huddled on a high mound amidst moss-covered trees, left us speechless and awestruck. We could not have imagined visiting the land that was once the cradle of Cambodia, established 1212 years ago.

The word "Phnom" in Cambodian means "mountain", while "Kulen" means "lychee". In simpler terms, it translates to "Mountain of Lychee Forest", as the area is known for its abundance of lychee trees. However, during our climb, we did not encounter any lychee trees. We did see some fruits being sold that resembled longan but with smaller seeds, similar to rattan fruit, with a sweet and sour taste. We were unable to identify the fruit, but lychees were definitely absent.

Two companions who came along with them speculated that the name "Kulen Mountain" might actually come from the carved麒麟(qilin) stone that they saw before them.

During the reign of King Jayavarman II, the first Javanese king to rule over Cambodia, the Shailendra or Devaraja cult, which believed that kings were divine incarnations, was introduced. As a result, kings and religious sites frequently constructed Shiva lingams to worship Shiva, the supreme deity.

Upon ascending the throne, King Jayavarman II embarked on a campaign of territorial expansion. His initial capital was located at Indrapura, situated east of present-day Kampong Cham. According to the historical inscription at Sdok Kok Thom, his coronation as king of Cambodia took place in 902 CE.

Although the king frequently relocated the capital, it remained close to the lake. The most significant capital during his reign was "Hariharalaya," which is now located in Rolue village, approximately 15 kilometers from Siem Reap.

However, after a short stay at Hariharalaya, the king moved the capital to a new city, "Amarendrapura," located at the foot of Phnom Kulen. He ordered the construction of "Mount Mahendraparvata" because he believed it to be the dwelling place of the gods. Mount Mahendraparvata is now known as Phnom Kulen.

After establishing the divine kingship ideology among the populace and consecrating the mountaintop of Phnom Kulen as the abode of the gods, the king returned to his residence in Hariharalaya, where he remained until his final days.

Following his death, King Jayavarman II was posthumously bestowed the title "Paramesvara." Mount Kulen became a sacred site for Cambodia, a status it maintained until the construction of Angkor Wat 300 years later. Subsequently, Mount Kulen faded from the collective memory of the Cambodian people.

As time passed, the great kingdom of the gods collapsed. The stories of the past became mere legends, for after that, no one knew where "Mount Meru," the abode of the gods they worshipped, was located.

In mid-2022, a team of archaeologists from the University of Sydney's Centre for Asian Art and Archaeology embarked on a perilous expedition through the minefields of Siem Reap province. Their mission: to locate the lost city of Mahendraparvata, the first capital of Cambodia.

And today, the four of us, Thai people, are standing in front of an abandoned temple that has not been renovated or repaired in any way. As it is a newly discovered archaeological site, it is not yet known to anyone. This place still retains its rawness, both the site itself, which frankly feels very eerie when standing there, and the surrounding forest, which is just as dense and frightening.

A Sacred Well

At the front of the elephant and qilin statues on the temple grounds, there is a well. The children called it a sacred well. We asked why, and they said that the well never runs dry. Their parents told them that the water in the well can heal wounds. Our guide also confirmed this, saying…

The aforementioned well is a naturally occurring body of water that has been blessed by the sacred spirits of the area. This is because the water springs forth in front of the temple and serves as the source of the stream that flows down to the "Kaban Saepian," which is located further below.

Historically, the summit of Phnom Kulen served as a crucial base for the Khmer Rouge forces. They held the belief that regardless of victory or defeat, as long as they retreated to their stronghold on Phnom Kulen, they would never perish. No matter the severity of their injuries, they would swiftly recover.

These beliefs are widely known among the general public because people have recounted seeing badly injured Khmer Rouge soldiers being carried back, only to miraculously be able to walk again within a few days. While the reason for this was initially unknown, people eventually came to believe that it was due to the sacred well in front of the temple, which seeped out to form a sacred stream that helped to prolong life and heal the wounds of both humans and animals.

To ensure that the beliefs conveyed by our guides were not in vain, the author discreetly instructed the temple boy who was assisting with carrying our belongings and guiding us up the mountain to take a bottle of water and fill it with water from the well. This act adhered to the Thai custom of not hesitating or delaying when encountering something considered sacred.

Although I do not believe, I do not disrespect.

Thank you.

- Infinity Plus Trading Co., Ltd.

• FOTOPRO THAILAND provides photographic equipment.