Readme before you journey
Samut Songkhram, also known as Mae Klong, is the smallest province in Thailand.
The entire province consists of only three districts: Mueang, Amphawa, and Bang Khonthi.
The lives and culture of the people here have been intertwined with the Mae Klong River since ancient times.
It has earned the nickname "The City of Three Tides."
The definition of a city of three rivers is a way of life where people use water in their daily lives.
Both morning, noon and evening, we will experience the charm of this city at all three times.
- Morning: Morning alms giving by boat
- Afternoon: Visit the community way of life, temples, and both land and floating markets.
- Evening: Take a boat to watch the fireflies.
Route Plan
Day 1 Itinerary:
- Depart from Bangkok
- Visit the Umbrella Market (Talad Rom Hub)
- Check into your accommodation
- Explore the Bang Noi Floating Market
- Visit Wat Bang Kung
- Visit Wat Bang Kaenoy
- Visit Wat Thung Khung
- Explore the Amphawa Floating Market
- Enjoy a firefly watching tour on the Khlong Kwae Om Canal
Day 2:
- Morning Alms Offering by Boat
- Bang Noi Floating Market
- Amphawa Floating Market
- Return to Bangkok
Image source: https://www.edtguide.com/th/thailand/detail/จังหวัดสมุทรสงคราม
*This review was sponsored by 'Baan Nam Pern Resort' for accommodation and activities, excluding travel expenses.*
Travel
(Bangkok - Samut Songkhram)
Our journey this time, we chose the most classic way of traveling, which is by train. The starting point of our journey is Wongwian Yai Railway Station, the starting station of the Maeklong Railway Line.
The easiest way to reach Wongwian Yai BTS Station is by taking the BTS Skytrain and getting off at Wongwian Yai Station, using either Exit 1 or 2.
Follow the Sky Walk and turn right at the sign that says "To Wongwian Yai".
Continue walking straight along the road until you reach a pedestrian bridge. Cross the bridge and look carefully for the entrance to Wongwian Yai Railway Station.
This journey will involve two train lines: the Wongwian Yai-Mahachai line and the Ban Laem-Mae Klong line. Before embarking, it is crucial to check the train schedule meticulously. We must adhere to a strict schedule to arrive at our desired time, primarily based on the Ban Laem-Mae Klong train schedule. If this is not feasible, an alternative option is to take a van to Mae Klong Market. The van terminal has relocated from Victory Monument to the Southern Bus Terminal (Pinklao). The van fare is 70 baht.
Train Schedule: Wongwian Yai - Mahachai
Note: This translation only includes the title of the schedule. Please provide the full schedule for accurate translation.
Train Schedule: Ban Laem - Mae Klong
We arrived at Wongwian Yai Railway Station just before the train arrived. The train ticket from Wongwian Yai to Mahachai costs only 10 baht. We bought the 7:40 AM train, which will arrive at Mahachai Station at 8:39 AM.
We arrived at Mahachai station 45 minutes late. It is now 9:10 AM. We need to get to Ban Laem Railway Station in time for the 10:10 AM train.
We had some time to spare, so we decided to have breakfast before continuing our journey. We had seen a junior student check in at Sai Ya Roasted Duck, so we followed suit and ordered a plate of duck rice for 40 baht.
After finishing our meal, we returned to Mahachai Railway Station. Facing away from the station, walk through Mahachai Market on your right-hand side.
Along the way, there are seafood shops selling both fresh and dried seafood, making it a delightful experience. It's so enjoyable that you might forget you need to take a ferry to Tha Chalom.
Walk straight until you reach the end of the road, then turn left and you will find the pier. The fare is 3 baht per person.
Crossing over to Tha Chalom, if anyone wants to walk to Ban Laem train station, you can walk. But right now, we don't have time to walk. The train will leave in 5 minutes. The fastest way is to run! Run to catch a motorbike taxi to Ban Laem train station. The motorbike fare is 15 baht.
An additional 10 baht will be charged for train tickets purchased on board. If you miss the opportunity to purchase a ticket before boarding, you can do so on the train. The 10:10 AM train will arrive at Mae Klong Station at 11:10 AM.
The scenery along this train line is dominated by salt fields.
Before reaching Mae Klong Station, we will encounter the unseen Thailand at the Umbrella Market. Vendors set up their stalls right next to the train tracks, and when the train approaches, they quickly fold their umbrellas and stow their goods, giving rise to the market's name, the Umbrella Market.
When taking photos, it is important to be mindful and cautious at all times, as accidents can happen at any moment. Although the train travels slowly through the Rom Hub Market, the safety of tourists is not fully ensured.
To capture the moment the awning unfolds, it is recommended to stand at either the front or the back of the train. This will provide you with the best angle for the shot, as shown in the image.
Passengers on the platform take photos of those on the train, who in turn pose with smiles and waves, enjoying their brief moment of celebrity.
Currently, there are 8 trains passing through the Hub Ruam Market daily at the following times: 06:20, 08:30, 09:00, 11:10, 11:30, 14:30, 15:30, and 17:40.
From here, we will take a blue songthaew to our accommodation. There are two songthaew stands on the opposite side of the Thanachart Bank. One route goes to Amphawa Floating Market, while the other goes to Wat Pramot. Our accommodation is located in Bang Khon Thi district, so taking the songthaew that goes to Wat Pramot will pass right in front of our accommodation. The fare is only 16 baht per person.
Accommodation
The Journey Begins: Exploring the Charm of Samut Songkhram
Samut Songkhram, a province nestled along the Mae Klong River, offers a captivating escape from the bustling city life. While a one-day trip can provide a glimpse of its charm, immersing oneself in the local community's rhythm requires an overnight stay. This journey begins with the warm hospitality of Baan Nam Pen Resort, a haven where tranquility meets authentic experiences.
Baan Nam Pen Resort is a small resort located in Bang Khon Thi district, on the banks of the Mae Klong River.
The resort features nine houses: Nam Neung, Nam Phet, Nam Sai, Nam Jit, Nam Jai, Nam Fon, Nam Fa, Nam Yen, and Nam Rin. Each house can accommodate two guests with an option for an additional guest.
All rooms have the same size, but the beds are different. There are two types of rooms to choose from: Superior King Size Bed and Superior Twin Bed. Our room, Baan Nam Fah, is the 9th room with a Twin bed.
The tranquil atmosphere, far from the hustle and bustle of large urban centers, combined with the lush shade of towering trees, creates an ideal setting for relaxation and rejuvenation.
The room is fully equipped with amenities, including air conditioning, a fan, a TV, a refrigerator, an electric kettle, a hairdryer, towels, and Wi-Fi.
Even beverages such as water, snacks, tea, coffee, and Ovaltine are available at no extra cost.
The bathrooms are clean and odor-free, offering open views. They are equipped with water heaters and toiletries, including shower gel, shampoo, and conditioner.
For those arriving by private car, take Highway 35 and follow the signs for Amphawa Floating Market. Baan Nam Ean is located 7 kilometers from Amphawa Floating Market, 1 kilometer from Bang Noi Floating Market, and 3 kilometers from Bang Kung Temple. The resort's parking lot is located within the property and has a roof and lighting. The gate will be closed after 10 pm for security reasons. (If you need to enter or exit after 10 pm, please inform the staff.)
This venue can accommodate small seminars of up to 30 people. The seminar room is equipped with amenities such as a projector and sound system. Catering services are available, including barbecue equipment and karaoke (additional charges apply).
Breakfast is served buffet-style from 7:30 AM to 10:00 AM at the riverside pavilion. Check-in time is 2:00 PM and check-out time is 11:00 AM.
The resort offers a variety of activities, including boat trips to various locations such as temples, floating markets, and firefly watching in the early evening (more details will be provided in the next section). However, what we really enjoyed as city kids was the opportunity to participate in the water alms-giving ceremony, which is not something we get to do very often. We usually only make merit on major Buddhist holidays or on our birthdays.
For alms offerings, the resort can prepare them for you at a cost of 60 baht per set. Alternatively, you may bring your own alms offering set. Please note that the monks here follow the Dhammayuttika Nikaya sect and will not accept monetary offerings. Additionally, they will not offer individual blessings after receiving alms. Instead, they will offer a collective blessing before their morning meal, which is a unique practice of this temple.
The monks who will be collecting alms by boat will be from Wat Ket Karam. They will arrive at our resort first, so it will be a bit early, around 6:15 AM. If you really can't make it, you can wait for them to arrive by land. However, the resort will be the last house on the land route, around 7:30 AM.
This image summarizes the costs of accommodation and various activities. Please note that weekday room rates are lower than those on weekends. For more information, please refer to the following details.
Phone: 034-702-528
Mobile: 094-454-4149
Facebook: Baan Nam Pen Resort
Line: @bnpresort
Website: www.bnpresort.com
Gliding Through the City of Waterways
Note: The original Thai phrase "ลอยละล่องท่องเมืองแห่งสายน้ำ" evokes a sense of serenity and wonder as one glides through a city defined by its waterways. The English translation aims to capture this essence while maintaining a formal academic style.
When mentioning Samut Songkhram, people often think of Don Hoi Lot or Amphawa Floating Market first. Did you know that there are many other interesting places to visit, including temples, museums, land markets, and floating markets? This trip to Samut Songkhram will surely not disappoint.
1. Bang Noi Floating Market
Located on the waterfront of Wat Ko Kaeo, Bang Noi Floating Market is a traditional community market. In the past, it was the largest sugar trading market, but now sugar is no longer produced there. Sugar production has shifted to areas around Amphawa. Let's explore what delicious food we can find here…
This place is a true paradise for noodle lovers, offering a wide variety of noodle dishes to satisfy every craving.
Ole's Noodle Shop
This establishment offers a diverse selection of noodle dishes, including เย็นตาโฟ (spicy fish ball noodles), ต้มยำน้ำใส (clear tom yum soup with noodles), and various noodle types such as เส้นเล็ก (thin rice noodles), เส้นใหญ่ (wide rice noodles), เส้นหมี่ (thin wheat noodles), หมี่กรอบ (crispy egg noodles), and เกี๊ยวกรอบ (crispy wonton). Customers can also enjoy freshly fried เกี๊ยวกุ้ง (shrimp wontons) as a snack while waiting for their noodles.
Auntie Kaek's Crab Noodle Soup:
Across the bridge, on the other side, deliciousness awaits. Follow the sound of music carried by the wind, and you'll find Auntie Kaek's Crab Noodle Soup and Spicy Papaya Salad restaurant, bustling with activity. The lively atmosphere is further enhanced by the on-site karaoke, where customers can showcase their singing talents.
A must-try is the 'Teochew Roti', a rare delicacy. A serving of 3 pieces costs only 20 baht. The thin, chewy dough has a fragrant sesame aroma, the sweetness of brown sugar, and a crunchy peanut topping. The pieces are bite-sized and best enjoyed hot.
This area boasts a diverse range of cafes, catering to various tastes. From traditional Thai coffee to modern brews, there's something for everyone.
Grilled Banana Dessert: Combine mashed ripe bananas, tapioca flour, rice flour, grated coconut, and coconut milk. Wrap the mixture in banana leaves and grill until cooked through. Serve hot for the best flavor.
Antique Toast: The elderly seller's presentation convinced us to try it. He boasted that he personally made the fillings, including Thai tea and pandan.
Typically, Bang Noi Floating Market operates during the morning and closes in the afternoon. However, the market will now also operate as an evening market, officially opening on August 12th. If you are in the area, be sure to stop by and support the local vendors.
The Siam Ha Museum: A Treasure Trove of Earthenware History
Nestled within the bustling Bang Noi Floating Market, the Siam Ha Museum, also known as the House of a Thousand Jars, stands as a testament to the rich history of earthenware pottery in the region. Open only on weekends, this quaint museum offers visitors a glimpse into the fascinating world of ancient ceramics, with some pieces dating back centuries.
The majority of the museum's collection, an impressive 80%, was salvaged from the depths of the Mae Klong River, painstakingly gathered since 1983. These salvaged treasures, along with other carefully curated pieces, were first displayed to the public in 1994, coinciding with the opening of the Bang Noi Floating Market.
Stepping into the Siam Ha Museum is akin to stepping back in time. The walls are adorned with an array of earthenware vessels, each bearing its own unique story. From intricately decorated jars to simple cooking pots, the collection showcases the diverse range of pottery produced in the region throughout the ages.
Beyond its impressive collection, the Siam Ha Museum serves as a valuable resource for those interested in learning more about the history and cultural significance of earthenware pottery. Visitors can delve into the intricate techniques used by local artisans, the evolution of pottery styles over time, and the role these vessels played in everyday life.
The museum's commitment to preserving and sharing this rich heritage makes it a must-visit destination for anyone seeking a deeper understanding of the cultural landscape of Thailand.
3. Bang Kung Temple
To reach the temple, you must cross the road from Wat Bang Kung Pier. This will take you past the temple's small zoo, which houses a variety of animals including camels, horses, buffalo, goats, sheep, wild boar, rabbits, turkeys, deer, geese, ostriches, and even crocodiles. You can purchase bundles of water spinach for 10 baht to feed the animals.
Wat Bang Kung is an ancient temple dating back to the Ayutthaya period. It served as a military camp during the fall of Ayutthaya, specifically for King Taksin's forces. As a result, the temple features a monument to King Taksin and statues of his military commanders, including Luang Pichai and Asa (Phraya Pichai Dab Hak). Additionally, visitors can admire statues of boxers from the Bang Kung camp in various fighting stances.
This temple's highlight is the Phra Pok Phothi, a chapel enveloped by the massive roots of banyan, fig, and other large trees. This unique feature has earned Wat Bang Kung a place among Thailand's Unseen Wonders.
The interior of the chapel houses the revered Luang Pho Nilmani, the principal Buddha statue, a large-scale sculpted representation of the Buddha.
4. Bang Kaenoy Temple
Upon entering the parking lot of Wat Bang Kaen Noi, one is immediately struck by a magnificent sight. What is it? The answer is the enshrined relics of the Buddha on a pedestal, surrounded by disciples and adorned with exquisite decorations. This stunning structure stands prominently in the open courtyard of the temple.
Bang Kaen Noi Temple is a true testament to artistic beauty. The walls of the ordination hall are intricately carved with teakwood depicting the life of Buddha, a masterpiece created by renowned craftsmen from Phetchaburi. We are truly proud of the exquisite craftsmanship of Thai artisans. While you're there, don't forget to pay your respects to the wax figure of Somdet Phra Phutthachan (Toh Prommarangsi), which is enshrined in the kuti. We missed it during our visit, unfortunately. Oh well! T^T
Before leaving, the monk who had been welcoming tourists at the ordination hall, whom we assumed to be the abbot of the temple, had prepared some sweet sticky rice porridge and invited tourists to try it and take a box or two. We took one box and gave it to the uncle who had driven us around the various tourist attractions in the area.
5. Wat Thong Khung
Wat Thong Kung is a temple with a history of approximately 200 years. Inside, the revered Luang Pho To, a Buddha statue in the Mara-Vijaya posture with crossed legs, is enshrined. According to the boat driver, the temple is considered sacred, and those seeking fortune-telling should visit. In the ordination hall, a fortune-telling elephant is placed for visitors to make a wish and attempt to lift. If they succeed, it is believed that their wish will be granted. (Please exercise discretion).
6. Amphawa Floating Market
After visiting the temple, it's time to eat, eat, eat, and eat again! The ultimate destination for this culinary adventure is the Amphawa Floating Market, a bustling hub for both Thai and international tourists on weekends.
The charm of this place is not much different from the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, where vendors paddle their boats to serve food. However, most people do not buy food to take home but eat it there. There are tables by the water for customers to use. If you come on a crowded day, you might get frustrated, so be prepared.
Amphawa Floating Market: A Bustling Weekend Destination
The Amphawa Floating Market operates every Friday, Saturday, Sunday, and public holidays, with evenings being particularly lively. Due to the large number of visitors and the narrow walkways, it is advisable to take extra care of your belongings and valuables.
7. Take a boat trip to see the fireflies.
As the sun begins to set, the highlight activity for visitors to this area commences: a firefly-watching boat tour. Believe it or not, I had never seen a firefly before, only in dramas, which I knew were not real. However, today I had the opportunity to see them, and I was incredibly excited. Although some people say that the fireflies in Amphawa are not real, with their flickering lights, I believe they are part of Amphawa's charm. If you visit the Amphawa Floating Market, there are boat tours available for 60 baht per person, including life jackets. They will take you to a canal near the market. In our case, the resort arranged a tour for us along the Khlong Kwae Om, which is conveniently located on the way back to our resort from the market. In the pitch-black canal, we saw twinkling lights on the Lamphu trees, resembling Christmas lights. While I cannot confirm their authenticity, I believe that among those lights, there must have been real fireflies. If you wish to see them, the rainy season from May to October is the best time, as this is when the firefly population is at its peak.
To view the animation, please click on the following link: https://www.facebook.com/100001174231198/posts/1774056095976848/
8. King Rama II Memorial Park
R.2 Park is divided into 6 sections:
Part 1 Ticket booths, souvenir shops, fresh coffee shops, and a miniature Thai dessert museum.
Open daily.
Monday-Friday: 8:30 AM - 5:00 PM
Saturday-Sunday: 8:30 AM - 5:30 PM
Admission fee: 30 baht for adults, 10 baht for children.
Part 2: An open-air theater with tiered seating for performances of Khon, Lakhon, and music, based on the royal compositions of King Phra Phutthaloetla Naphalai.
Section 3 The five Thai-style buildings in Group 5 are museums of the Thai way of life in the early Rattanakosin period, which is divided into 6 zones.
Zone 1: The Central Tower
This zone showcases wax figures depicting the lifestyles of people during that era. Exhibits include a prayer room, a bedroom, a traditional massage demonstration, a dressing table, a demonstration of pleating and pressing fabric for a traditional Thai garment (pha sabai), and a display of early Rattanakosin period artifacts such as Benjarong porcelain and tableware.
Zone 2: Men's Quarters
This zone showcases the lifestyle of Thai men during the early Rattanakosin period, emphasizing their bravery and willingness to defend the nation. Exhibits include swords, shields, depictions of boys' education, and traditional games like "Makruk" (Thai chess).
Zone 3: The Women's Chamber showcases the lifestyle of ancient Thai women, featuring traditional courtship rituals, betel nut chewing sets, and children's toys.
Zone 4: Veranda
This zone is designed in the style of a traditional Thai house veranda, adorned with potted bonsai trees, ornamental plants, and lotus ponds.
Zone 5: Location of the Foundation Stone
This zone displays a model of the foundation stone laid by Her Royal Highness Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn.
Zone 6 Amphawa Cultural Heritage Museum showcases the history, culture, and unique local traditions of Amphawa from the past to the present. It also features prominent figures from Amphawa district, such as Luang Pradit Phairoh (Sor Silapabanleng), Khru Aue Sunthon-sanan, and Khru Thul Thongchai.
Section 4: The Literary Garden
This section showcases a diverse collection of plant species mentioned in various literary works, serving as a valuable resource for study. Additionally, it features sculptures inspired by the writings of King Rama II, including bronze figures of characters from the epics of Sangkh Thong, Kraithong, and Ramakien.
Section 5
The nine traditional Thai houses in this section serve as a museum dedicated to the life and reign of King Phutthaloetla Naphalai (Rama II).
Section 6: Riverside Area
This section offers scenic views, photo opportunities, and access to park boats for exploring the Mae Klong River.
9. Thai Dessert Museum
Located within the grounds of Rama II Park, this museum showcases a diverse collection of meticulously crafted replicas of traditional Thai desserts, spanning from the Sukhothai, Ayutthaya, and Rattanakosin periods.
Savory and sweet Thai dishes in the poems "Kap He Ruea Chom Khrueang Khao" and "Kap He Ruea Chom Khrueang Wan," royal compositions of King Phra Phutthaloetla Naphalai, Rama II.
Nine auspicious desserts, a symbol of good fortune in Thai culture.
These traditional Thai desserts are characterized by auspicious names, often incorporating the word "gold" (ทอง). Examples include:
- Thong Yip (Golden Fingers)
- Thong Yot (Golden Drops)
- Foi Thong (Golden Threads)
- Med Kanun (Jackfruit Seeds)
- Thong Ek (Golden Bar)
- Cha Mongkut (Crown)
- Saneh Jan (Moon Charm)
- Khanom Chan (Layered Cake)
- Khanom Thuai Fu (Steamed Cup Cake)
In addition to showcasing traditional Thai desserts, the exhibition also features fascinating antique dessert vendors, such as three-wheeled bicycle carts, paddle boats, and hawkers carrying baskets of treats.
Thank you to SONY A6000 + Lens kit 16-50 and Gopro HERO5 for capturing beautiful images throughout this trip.
Images edited using Lr software.
Thank you to Khun Ben and Baan Nam Resort for providing us with accommodation and exclusive activities that allowed us to experience the lifestyle of the Mae Klong community.
Thank you to everyone who follows us. If there are any mistakes, we apologize and welcome all feedback.
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