Hello everyone! This rainy season, let's welcome you with the lush green rice fields of Sapa.

Hanoi Trip: August 15-20, 2018

This trip took place from August 15th to 20th, 2018, coinciding with Typhoon Bebinca. The itinerary focused on three dream destinations and one UNESCO World Heritage Site in Hanoi.

- Tran Quoc Pagoda (the oldest pagoda in Vietnam)


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Conquering Fansipan: The Roof of Indochina

Fansipan, the highest peak in Indochina, stands at an impressive 3,143 meters, earning it the nickname "The Roof of Indochina." Located in Sa Pa, Lào Cai Province, Vietnam, this majestic mountain offers a challenging yet rewarding climb for adventurous travelers.


- Bai Dinh Pagoda: An ancient temple complex, considered the largest in Vietnam and possibly even Asia.


Tràng An Scenic Landscape Complex

Tràng An, also known as Tam Coc, is a scenic landscape complex located near Ninh Binh city, Ninh Binh province, in the Red River Delta of Vietnam. It has been recognized as a mixed World Heritage Site by UNESCO for its outstanding cultural and natural values.

The Eco Palm House is a dream accommodation that you must stay at when you visit Sapa.

Let's begin our journey! We started by booking a promotional ticket with AirAsia, which cost us 1,910 baht for a round trip to Noi Bai Airport in Hanoi. For transportation and other purchases in Hanoi, we used the services of Mr. Huong, a popular local agent. We communicated with him through Facebook Messenger, providing our travel dates and desired destinations. Mr. Huong then provided us with a list of prices for various services. (We had done some research beforehand, and calculated that the total cost wouldn't be much different from buying everything ourselves. For convenience, we decided to let Mr. Huong handle everything, except for some of our accommodation which we booked ourselves.)

For currency exchange, we exchanged around 200 USD at a rate of 33.2, which amounted to approximately 6,640 Thai baht. We also exchanged 1,995,170.29 Vietnamese dong, equivalent to 2,800 Thai baht. (Note: We had 1,000 baht left over when we returned to Thailand.)


We departed on August 15th and arrived at Noi Bai Airport around 8:20 PM (Vietnam time is the same as Thailand time). Upon arrival, a staff member from Ms. Huong picked us up from the airport and took us to our accommodation.


Upon arriving at the airport, our first priority was to purchase a SIM card. The first shop on the right offered a variety of packages to choose from, but we opted for the most powerful option, which included two SIM cards and Wi-Fi sharing capabilities.

The car that picked us up from the airport looks like this. The fixed price is 15 dollars, split between 4 people.

The first night's accommodation was at the Cristina Hotel (1,800 baht for 4 people, including breakfast). The hotel was very luxurious and the staff was friendly and helpful. The breakfast was also delicious. I was very impressed with the hotel (but cars cannot be driven into the hotel, they must be parked on the side of the road, but it is only a short walk).




After packing our belongings, we set out to find the feoh. Will we find it?


Today's lunch was not pho, but stir-fried noodles and spring rolls, followed by a can of sleeping pills.


The food here is not only delicious, but the dining room is also luxurious. Oh my, there are good and cheap things in the world.



Day 2 (August 16, 2018): Christina Hotel to Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park

On the second day of our journey, we checked out of Christina Hotel around 9 am. As we embarked on our adventure, Typhoon Bebinca made its presence felt, unleashing its fury on northern Vietnam. Rain lashed down from morning till evening, a constant companion on our travels.

For transportation, we opted for a private car with Mr. Huong. The cost was $80 per day, which included the car, fuel, driver, and tolls. This arrangement proved to be a convenient and cost-effective option for our group of five, allowing us to customize our itinerary and avoid the constraints of organized tours. The per-person cost of $10 was significantly lower than the price of day trips offered by tour operators.

This plan originally included Tran Quoc, Tam Coc, Tang An, and Hang Mua. However, due to time constraints, we were unable to visit both Tam Coc and Trang An on the same day and reach Hang Mua for the view. Therefore, we opted to visit only Tran Quoc, Bai Dinh, and Trang An.

Tran Quoc Pagoda (เจดีย์เตริ่นกว็อก)

This pagoda is free to enter.

Tran Quoc Pagoda, a towering structure exceeding 10 stories, showcases a unique blend of Chinese, Vietnamese, and Japanese artistry. The serene surroundings boast meticulously pruned bonsai trees in pots and ancient stone tablets dating back to 1639. The pagoda's pink tiers, gradually ascending to an estimated 10 levels, offer a breathtaking spectacle on sunny days. However, the overcast skies during my visit unfortunately obscured its full splendor.


We departed from Chua Tam Chuc around 11:30 AM and embarked on a journey to Bai Dinh Pagoda, situated in Ninh Binh City. The estimated travel time was two and a half hours due to Vietnam's strict speed enforcement, limiting vehicles to a maximum of 60 kilometers per hour. For those with time constraints, it is advisable to factor in additional travel time.

The parking lot is located far from the pagoda, and it is not possible to park nearby. A tram service is available for transportation. The round-trip fare is approximately 50,000 VND per person.

Upon reaching the grand entrance gate of the pagoda, a series of steps leads the way to the structure itself. However, our group was unable to reach the pagoda due to time constraints, as we needed to proceed to another location. Our driver informed us that we had to depart from Ninh Binh no later than 5:00 PM.

The Bái Đính Archaeological Complex

The Bái Đính Archaeological Complex encompasses two temples: the Bái Đính Cổ Tự (Old Bái Đính Temple) and the Bái Đính Tân Tự (New Bái Đính Temple). The name "Bái Đính" signifies the offering of blessings to the heavens, Buddha, and deities residing on high. Situated west of the Hoa Lư capital, this archaeological complex holds significant historical and cultural value.


The interior boasts numerous exquisite Buddha statues. Walking through the space is effortless, and a delightful fragrance wafts through the air. Following the scent, one encounters a breathtaking sight: enormous pots overflowing with fragrant lilies. The aroma is intoxicating, a true testament to their authenticity.

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After walking for a while, we came across a giant bell tower with panoramic views. We climbed up and enjoyed the 360-degree view.

This temple is so vast that two hours is not enough to explore it. We will have to come back another time. Now, we need to go have lunch. ...

For lunch, **Duc**, our driver, asked us how much we wanted to spend per person. We told him no more than 200 baht per person, so he got us this package.

9 dishes for 320,000 dong for 4 people.

The taste of the food at this restaurant... well, I'll tell you later. But I just want to say that it's a good idea to bring instant noodles from Thailand.

After lunch, around 2:30 PM, we had to rush to Trang An because we were short on time. As soon as we arrived, we had to buy tickets, which cost about 300 Thai baht per person. We waited for about 2 hours and there were about 6 rounds of cave tours. I have to say, it was totally worth it. (Many people say that between Trang An and Tam Coc, Trang An is the better choice because it's more beautiful and has a better system.)

But for me, the thing that made me want to come here was this pavilion. It's so beautiful, it's like heaven.

Although it is raining today, we are fortunate that there are few people. Normally, this place is extremely crowded, with hundreds of boats queuing to pass through the cave one by one. Just thinking about it gives me goosebumps.

Tràng An Scenic Landscape Complex

Tràng An, also known as Trang An, is a scenic landscape complex located near Ninh Binh City, Ninh Binh Province, in the Red River Delta of Vietnam. It is renowned for its boat tours through caves and grottoes.

On June 23, 2014, at the 38th session of the World Heritage Committee in Doha, Qatar, Tràng An was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site under the mixed category, recognizing its cultural and natural significance. This inscription encompasses the Hoa Lu ancient capital, the Tam Coc-Bich Dong area, and the Bai Dinh Temple.

Key features of Tràng An:

  • Boat tours: Visitors can explore the complex by taking boat tours through a network of caves, grottoes, and waterways.
  • Karst formations: The landscape is characterized by towering limestone karst formations, creating a dramatic and picturesque setting.
  • Historical significance: The Hoa Lu ancient capital served as the political center of Vietnam during the 10th and 11th centuries.
  • Religious importance: The Bai Dinh Temple is one of the largest Buddhist temples in Southeast Asia.
  • Biodiversity: The complex is home to a diverse range of flora and fauna, including several endangered species.

Additional information:

  • Location: Ninh Binh Province, Vietnam
  • Area: 12,250 hectares
  • Established: 2014
  • UNESCO World Heritage Site: Mixed (cultural and natural)


After purchasing our tickets, the staff directed us to board the boat according to the queue. Each boat accommodated four passengers and one boatman, for a total of five people. (The boatwoman was remarkably strong.)



This is a greeting to fans. When we said we were from Thailand, they were very happy. They said they love Phuket.


We have arrived at the first cave. Please lower your head.



The cave exploration doesn't take long. It only takes about 5 minutes to reach the mouth of the cave. Don't worry, the inside is not scary. There are orange lights all the way, and there are staff to ensure safety at every point.

After exiting the first cave, you will encounter a wide bay. There is also a temple inside (if you want to stop by, you can tell the boatman).



It won't take long. Once you emerge, you'll see something like this.

I have to curve around to squeeze through another hole, the rain is getting heavier and heavier... Waaah, what am I doing here?

After paddling for a while, I finally found it... the pavilion in the middle of the lake. Oh, I'm so happy! On top of the pavilion, there were staff playing music along with the sound of the rain... It was so beautiful.


After we pass this hall, the next cave we have to go through will be very low, so we have to lie flat on the boat.


If you have time, I recommend taking a walk around King Kong Island. The boatman will drop you off at the front, and there will be a bridge connecting you to the island. You can walk around and there are movie scenes from King Kong recreated for photo opportunities. However, we were in a hurry, so we didn't stop.


We arrived at the boarding point around 4 pm, just in time. After arriving in Hanoi, we had to take a shower at Huong's office before continuing on the train to Sapa. (Huong recommended the Dream Train, which has new rooms and costs $28 per person per leg.)


The museum houses historical artifacts that are registered as World Heritage Sites.


Departed Chiang Rai around 5 pm. Encountered a storm upon leaving, making visibility difficult. Reduced speed from 60 to 50 km/h. Estimated arrival in Hanoi around 7:30 pm.

We stopped by the office to settle the payment and freshened up. The office is a small commercial building. The first floor is a clothing store, and the second floor is a small office with a desk, a computer, and two assistants, who are the owner's sisters. The third floor is a guest room with a bathroom and towels for changing.


Your sister dropped us off at the train station at eight o'clock in the evening.


The train we booked was beautiful, as advertised. However, unless you're seeking a unique experience, we recommend taking a bus to Sapa instead. The train doesn't actually reach Sapa, requiring an additional transfer. Additionally, the constant jolting made for a restless night, leaving us sore and uncomfortable. In our opinion, the bus is a superior option, offering greater comfort and affordability.



Six o'clock in the morning, we arrived in Lao Cai. We had to take a minibus that we had bought with Euong to enter Lao Cai. When we exited the gate, someone was holding a sign with our name on it. We followed them, and the fare was $2.5 per person. They dropped us off at the hotel.

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Upon arrival in Sapa, we were greeted by a bone-chilling cold and persistent rain. The temperature was so low that we felt our bodies stiffen. Although we arrived at the hotel early and our room was not yet ready, the staff kindly provided us with a shower room and luggage storage. We opted to freshen up while waiting, and later ventured out for a delicious meal at a nearby restaurant. Our hotel, Phoung Nam, boasts breathtaking panoramic views, especially from our reserved room. The scenery is truly magnificent.

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We left our luggage at the storage and went to find something to eat. We came across this restaurant, which was delicious (according to Wongnai).

Seasoning: Add chili for spiciness, lime for sourness, and salt for saltiness.

After feeling full, I took a short walk to enjoy the view. I came across a legendary restaurant with a million-dollar view called Coffee View Clouds.


This afternoon, we traveled to the village of Kat Kat. The hotel called a taxi for us, which cost 40 baht per person round trip. Upon arrival, we had to pay an entrance fee of 70,000 dong per person.



Sapa in August is incredibly lush and green.




We spent a considerable amount of time in Cat Cat Village, as the distance was quite long, approximately 2-3 kilometers. Moreover, the return journey involved an uphill climb. ......

For our return trip to Sapa town, we opted for the same taxi, requesting the driver to drop us off at the salmon hotpot restaurant. Our choice of restaurant was primarily driven by price considerations. While some restaurants charged 100,000 VND per person, this particular establishment offered a more affordable option at 60,000 VND per person. As for the taste, the fish had an earthy smell, similar to the Nile tilapia found in our home country. While not the most delectable, it was still edible.



After a savory meal, it's time for dessert. This restaurant was recommended by Wongnai again. The tiramisu is delicious.

After finishing your meal, take a walk to find a minimart or supermarket. The shop is located near the lake and offers a wide variety of products, including some imported from Thailand.

Translation:

Before returning to our accommodation, we stopped for a taste of mala skewers. The flavor was unremarkable, and the spiciness paled in comparison to what we experienced in Chiang Mai.


On the morning of August 17, 2018, I woke up to rain. Today, I have a plan to take the cable car to the top of Fansipan Mountain. ...... The sky is overcast, so I'm mentally prepared. After coming down from Fansipan, we will check in to our accommodation near Ta Phin Village, which is Eco Palm House.

We packed our bags, checked out, and left our luggage at the hotel. We will be coming down from the top of Fansipan in the afternoon, so we won't be in a hurry. ... But let's take a look at the breakfast at Phoung Nam and see what they have to offer.


Breakfast includes pho, freshly prepared and served. However, the pho was not delicious due to the strong smell of meat.

Translation:

After finishing breakfast around 9 am, we walked out to the front of the hotel and saw the Sun Plaza building where they sell train and cable car tickets. The round-trip price was around 1,200 baht per person (train-cable car-train). We bought the tickets to avoid walking, haha!

We have arrived at the main hall. We need to take a train to the top. As you can see, the weather is white and very cold. The fog is so thick that it feels like tiny droplets of water are falling on us.


Before reaching the summit, we took a break inside the church, where a single heater provided warmth and shelter from the swirling mist. It's important to listen to your body and avoid pushing yourself too hard, as altitude sickness can occur.


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Conquering Fansipan Peak (the highest peak in Indochina) is a mountain with the highest altitude in Vietnam at 3,143 meters. It is nicknamed "the Roof of Indochina" and is located in the town of Sapa, Lào Cai Province, Vietnam. Fansipan is situated on the Hoàng Liên Sơn mountain range.

The summit was extremely cold, making it impossible to stay for long. After approximately 20 minutes, we descended. However, waiting for clear skies seemed futile, so we decided to proceed with our descent.


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"I'm so tired. My hands are so stiff that I can't even hold a camera."



We arrived at the bottom around 4 pm. We dropped off two friends at Eden Boutique, but we stayed at Eco Palm in Baan Ta Fan.


We checked in at Eden Boutique and then took a taxi to Eco Palm. The taxi fare was around 30 baht per person, but the entrance fee to the village was almost 100 baht.

The scenery along the way was breathtaking. It was truly magnificent. The only regret was the lack of sunshine. If the weather had been better, the pictures would have been even more stunning. The light was insufficient, and it was also raining. It was a real shame.



Upon arrival at our accommodation, before we even had a chance to unpack our bags, the owner urged us to go take photos. Oh my, it was so lovely! They knew we had limited time, and we had to catch an 8 am bus back to Hanoi the next morning. It's a shame we didn't have more time; it was just too short.



Our booked room was a dormitory-style room with shared bathrooms (there were 2 bathrooms, very spacious and clean, no need to worry, and the view was amazing). We couldn't book a private room in time, as they were all fully booked on our arrival date. However, the conditions were excellent, and the blankets were incredibly warm. The breakfast was also delicious.



We had dinner at our accommodation. There was spaghetti, burgers, and fresh spring rolls, which were delicious. This is the best meal I've had in Vietnam after several days, and it was also inexpensive. We split the bill, and it only cost 250 baht per person.


After finishing dinner, we will shower and go to bed. Tomorrow morning, we will check out at 6:00 AM. (We have arranged for a taxi to pick us up to take us to the Green Bus company's bus stop. The price is 12 USD per person, or approximately 400 THB.)

The accommodation was lovely. Since we checked out early, the staff kindly prepared breakfast for us. The previous evening, a staff member asked us what we would like to eat, and they prepared it for us the next morning according to our order. It was very thoughtful of them.



Everything was rushed. We ate quickly and tried to take photos, but we couldn't keep up, so the staff had to help us take them. (We had scheduled a taxi to pick us up at 7:00 AM to take us to the bus office. The bus was scheduled to depart from Sapa at 8:00 AM.)

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The bus ride was fantastic! It had Wi-Fi, charging ports, air conditioning, blankets, and a bottle of water for each passenger. There were also shoe bags for storage, and the driver maintained a safe speed limit of 60 km/h. Additionally, there was a 30-minute break for food.

We arrived in Sapa around 2 pm, and the sun was shining brightly. For our last night, we booked a room at the Prince II Hotel through Booking.com for 46.2 USD (approximately 1,538.46 THB) for three people, including breakfast. The hotel is conveniently located near the entertainment district and the walking street. It's a great location! From the bus stop, it's a short walk to the Prince II Hotel. Just open your GPS and follow the directions.



Before embarking on our quest to find St. John's Church, we fueled up at the restaurant in front of the hotel.

... Another spring roll (It seems like it's going to be a spring roll soon).


Full, let's continue walking.

Translation:

The blaring horns were deafening. If I stayed any longer, I would definitely go deaf. I'm also tired and hot. I think I'll have some ice cream.

It was incredibly delicious! The coconut milk was incredibly rich. This one cost 60,000 dong, while the smaller size is 35,000 dong.


I found it right away.



After taking photos, we walked to the red bridge by the lake. The later it got, the more crowded it became. There were so many people! They were all out enjoying themselves. The people here definitely don't suffer from depression.

Translation:

While strolling around, we stumbled upon this: cockles! Oh my, they were delicious! Eating them was refreshing, but they were a bit pricey. A plate of cockles cost 250 baht, and a plate of freshwater clams was 200 baht. Including a bottle of water, the total came to almost 500 baht (but the portions were generous).


Full from lunch, we headed to Wrap & Roll for some nem nuong. According to Wongnai, the restaurant is delicious... Let's go!


The food was delicious, but the fermented pork sausage was not like the usual fermented pork sausage, and the dipping sauce was completely different. The crab spring rolls were very delicious, and the vermicelli with grilled pork in a bowl was also delicious.


After eating, we walked around the Red Bridge for a while and then returned to our accommodation. But .......... I don't understand what's so good about this water.

It's plain water with squeezed lemon and orange. It's very popular among teenagers. They drink it with sunflower seeds... The streets are full of sunflower seed shells... But it must be delicious, otherwise people wouldn't drink it so much.

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Translation:

On the morning of August 20th, 2018, we checked out of the Prince's Two Hotel early to catch our 9 am flight back to Don Mueang. As usual, we hired a car from Mr. Huong for the trip from the hotel to the airport.

Regarding our experience in Hanoi, we found that the people were not very friendly. Some of them even yelled at us when we simply looked at their merchandise without buying anything. Additionally, they would quickly look away if we tried to take their picture. We did not find this behavior to be acceptable.

As for the food, some restaurants were delicious, but the authentic local dishes were inedible. The pork tasted like beef, and the beef had a strong odor, similar to buffalo meat. In fact, even our friend who enjoys eating meat couldn't stomach it. It was too gamey. As a result, we only ate chicken pho (Pho Ga) and couldn't eat the beef pho (Pho Bo).




In the end, Sapa will still be our second time. We'll be back again.


Total expenses: 9,500 Thai baht.




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