Falling in Love with Loei: Exploring the Local Identity and Way of Life



After lunch, we left the Black Tai Village, Black Tai Museum House, Black Tai Cultural Center (you can call it whatever you like). Our next destination was Panpim Homestay, Soi 8, Chiang Khan District, where we had an appointment with Aunt Nang to participate in the "Floating Away Bad Luck" activity.


A Glimpse into the Heart of Loei: A Cultural and Natural Journey

Aboard a small aircraft, we soared towards Loei Airport, embarking on a cultural and natural odyssey that would unveil the hidden treasures of this captivating province. Six days, we believed, would be enough to ignite a spark, a profound connection with Loei that would leave us utterly enthralled.



The Special Area Development and Management Organization for Sustainable Tourism (SAT), also known as APTA, has invited us on a comprehensive tour of Loei Province. The tour will focus on three distinct routes:

  • Lifestyle and Local Identity Route: This route will immerse us in the unique culture and traditions of Loei.
  • Natural Wonders and Mountains Route: This route will showcase the breathtaking natural beauty of Loei, including its mountains and forests.
  • Green Tourism and Cold-Season Flowers Route: This route will highlight Loei's commitment to sustainable tourism and its renowned cold-season flowers.

With these diverse routes, we can expect a well-rounded experience that captures the essence of Loei. Let's embark on this exciting journey!

According to the schedule, we should have arrived at nine o'clock in the morning, but we didn't arrive until after ten. We came by plane, not by car, so why were we late? ... Skip, skip, skip, skip.


Buddha...

The van from the APTO took us from the airport to our first destination, the Damrongdham Monastery in the Sri Song Rak Camp, Sri Song Rak Subdistrict, Mueang District, the location of the Phuputthadho. Here, there is a large Buddha statue, the Phra Phuttho or Phra Phutthamariwichai Si Trirattanakun (Mara Conqueror), which was given its name by Her Majesty Queen Sirikit.

The path leading up to Phu Phutthabat is lush and green...

The Buddha, or the Buddha of Victory over Mara, the Triple Gem of Auspiciousness (Conqueror of Mara)


The people of Loei regularly visit the temple to pay their respects and perform religious ceremonies. Almost all travelers passing through Loei Province come to worship and pray for blessings. After paying respects and praying, they embark on the first route...

Black Tai Community


It was past eleven o'clock when we arrived at Ban Na Pa Na, Khao Kaew Subdistrict, Chiang Khan District, the location of the Tai Dam village. We met with Professor Phetcharabong Paisoon, a National Treasure of the Tai Dam people, a community leader, and a true leader of the Tai Dam way of life.

Professor Phetcharatong Paisun, a National Treasure of the Tai Dam People

Driven by a deep love and pride in their identity, the Tai Dam people have dedicated themselves to preserving their history and culture. Through extensive research and documentation, they have established a museum and a thriving community, ensuring the continuation of their unique heritage. Moreover, they hold a profound sense of gratitude for Thailand, which provided them with refuge during times of conflict, allowing their ancestors to seek safety within its borders.

The sentence is already in English and does not require translation.

In ancient times, the Tai Dam people lived in the Sip Song Chu Thai region, located in northern Laos and northwestern Vietnam. The long history of the Tai Dam people is filled with fascinating aspects. They have their own language and alphabet, and they believe in house and ancestral spirits. These spirits are believed to punish wrongdoing and prevent progress in life.

The warm smile of an elderly Tai Dam woman...


The area surrounding the Tai Dam community...


The Black Tai Museum. Souvenirs are sold on the lower floor, while the museum itself is located on the upper floor.

Professor Phetcharabong Paisun briefly shared the stories of the Tai Dam people. He then led a tour of the Tai Dam Museum in the Tai Dam village community. There were many interesting stories, such as: For a Tai Dam couple to get married, the groom must sleep outside the bride's house for half a year. In the past, when someone died in the house, they were buried immediately on the property. However, all these beliefs are things of the past. Today, people have to adapt to the times.

Artifacts over a century old within the museum…

After exploring the museum, it was time for a craft activity. We made small, heart-shaped souvenirs from the Tai Dam community, a lovely way to remember our visit.

Enjoy the fun of making weights...

This is for sale, it's a souvenir.

During the preparation of the tum, the Black Tai students will sing in harmony.


There are many more interesting stories about the Tai Dam people. If we were to tell them all, it would take many more characters. It is better to invite you to experience and learn for yourself. Visiting the Tai Dam village and the Tai Dam Museum is free of charge. You can contact them in advance at 083 3322828.

After lunch, we left the Black Tai Village and headed towards our next destination, Panpim Homestay in Soi 8, Chiang Khan District. We had an appointment with Aunt Nang to participate in the "Pha Sat Loi Kroh" ceremony...

This afternoon, we visited Aunt Nang's house, which is conveniently located near the Chiang Khan Walking Street. Aunt Nang is incredibly friendly and welcoming. Upon our arrival, she offered us refreshments and delicious pumpkin desserts. Unfortunately, we were unable to capture the moment in a photograph.

Here, we have an activity called "Phasat Loy Krathong," which translates to "Floating Away Misfortune." Let's delve into its origins and how it's performed. First, let's explore its historical significance.

"Hae Wiak": A Traditional Ritual of Renewal and Release

The term "Hae Wiak" originates from the local dialect and translates to "making a floating offering to appease misfortune." For centuries, this ritual has been practiced by the people of Chiang Khan during the Buddhist Lent period (ออกพรรษา) as a way to symbolically release bad luck, sorrow, and illness by sending them downstream on the Mekong River. Today, the ritual can be performed any day of the year, reflecting the evolving nature of traditions and the enduring desire for renewal and release.

Aunt Nang, a beautiful and cheerful woman, teaches how to make "Phasat Loi Krahaeng"...


The Pha Sad ceremony involves two types of offerings: large offerings, known as "Pha Sad Sadet Kra-roh," which are used to ward off major misfortunes, and smaller offerings, which are used to release general anxieties and sorrows. Individuals who believe they are experiencing significant misfortune, such as serious illness or a near-death experience, may choose to release a Pha Sad Sadet Kra-roh. Smaller offerings are used to release everyday worries and anxieties, allowing them to drift away with the Mekong River's current. Today, we will focus on the Pha Sad Sadet Kra-roh ceremony, which is specifically designed to alleviate major misfortunes.

Aunt Nang is explaining the step-by-step process of making...

The process begins by dipping the mold into molten wax to create a flower-shaped pattern...

There are also cases where it was not successful...


Meanwhile, the other side is preparing to make krathongs...

The process of making "Phasat" begins with gathering the necessary materials: banana leaves, banana stalks, and a papaya mold for the flower-shaped candles. The first step involves melting the candle wax in a pan. The papaya mold, intricately carved, is then dipped into the melted wax, ensuring an even coating. After a suitable time, the mold is submerged in cold water, allowing the wax to solidify. The mold is then carefully removed, revealing a beautiful flower-shaped candle.

Assembled into a raft to float away misfortune…


On the other hand, banana sheaths are sewn into square-shaped krathongs, and banana leaves are sewn into banana shapes about 9 centimeters high. Then, both parts are assembled together to form a floating raft to ward off bad luck. Most of the flowers used in the making will have 9 flowers for good luck.


The ceremony concludes with a Brahmin ritual to dispel misfortune and negative energies. Participants then release offerings into the Mekong River, symbolizing the release of bad luck. It is believed that once the offerings are released, one should not look back, as this signifies a complete severance from negativity. The ritual concludes with the belief that by releasing these offerings, one is freed from past burdens and misfortunes.

Brahmin Ceremony to Ward Off Misfortune and Alleviate Suffering, Illness, and Calamity

Gaining knowledge and performing a ceremony to float away bad luck on the Mekong River, according to the ancient beliefs of the people of Chiang Khan. Delighted with a smile, it's time to find something to eat. For dinner, I had fish from the river at the Pa Kluem Housewives' Local Food Restaurant in Chiang Khan. It was very delicious. Before going for a walk to digest at the Chiang Khan Walking Street, I ended the day lightly. Tomorrow there are still many stories of diverse cultures to discover...

Bidding Farewell to Chiang Khan: A Glimpse of the Mekong River

Original Text:

ร่ำลาวันนี้กันด้วยบรรยากาศ สายน้ำโขง แห่งเชียงคาน…

Today, we bid farewell to the enchanting atmosphere of the Mekong River in Chiang Khan…

A New Day Dawns in Chiang Khan: Embracing Local Culture and Scenic Beauty

The morning sun paints the sky with vibrant hues as a new day unfolds in Chiang Khan. The air is crisp and cool, carrying the scent of the Mekong River and the promise of adventure. Today's journey delves deeper into the cultural tapestry of this charming town, following the footsteps of its rich heritage.

The day begins with the age-old tradition of "tak bat khao niao," the offering of sticky rice to monks. This ritual, deeply ingrained in the local way of life, is a sight to behold. As the monks walk barefoot through the streets, their saffron robes fluttering in the gentle breeze, they receive offerings from the devout, their bowls filling with the bounty of the land.

Having experienced this beautiful ceremony on a previous visit to Chiang Khan, I opt for a different path this morning. Instead, I lace up my running shoes and head out for a refreshing jog along the Mekong River. The path, meticulously paved and stretching for miles, offers breathtaking views of the river and the neighboring Laotian landscape. The contrast between the two countries is stark yet harmonious, a testament to the shared history and cultural exchange that defines this region.

As I run, I can't help but marvel at the transformation this path has undergone since my last visit. The once-rough terrain has been replaced with a smooth, inviting surface, making it a haven for runners, cyclists, and walkers alike. The development is a welcome addition, enhancing the accessibility and enjoyment of this scenic route.

The morning unfolds like a vibrant tapestry, weaving together the threads of cultural heritage, natural beauty, and modern progress. As I continue my run, I am filled with a sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience this unique blend of tradition and modernity, a testament to the enduring spirit of Chiang Khan.

The journey to success requires preparation, good fortune, and a lack of obstacles. However, this time, we were not so lucky. This was the only time during our six-day trip that we encountered an insurmountable obstacle.

Today's program, in the morning we will go up to Phu Thok to watch the sunrise, followed by a trip to Kaeng Khut Khu, a rocky outcrop that emerges above the Mekong River. But... it rained, heavily, for a long time, non-stop, all the way to Ban Ya Ban Yang. It rained from before seven in the morning until noon. It was brutal... all morning programs were canceled.

With permission, I would like to share some photos of Phu Tok that I took some time ago.


Let me reiterate, this was the only real obstacle throughout the entire journey...

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After succumbing to the rain, the team arrived in the afternoon at the Phi Khon Nam Demonstration Center in Ban Na Sao, Na Sao Subdistrict, Chiang Khan District, Loei Province, the land of "Phi Khon Nam." Today, we will learn about art. Before we get there, let's get to know Phi Khon Nam. Who are they? Are they related to Phi Ta Khon? Let's keep it brief for understanding. If you want to know more, it shouldn't be difficult to find. Knowledge is in the air. We are here to inspire you to come out and travel...

The "Phi Khon Nam" is a traditional folk performance of the Na Saw people, with a history dating back to ancient times. It is based on the belief in ancestor worship. The Na Saw people are a Tai Phuan ethnic minority group who migrated from Luang Prabang to establish their village in Na Sam Wa. In the early days, with no spiritual guidance, they relied on ancestor worship and the worship of their grandparents' spirits. This practice served as a way to express gratitude, respect, and repay their benefactors. It was also a way to pray for peace and happiness, and for rain to fall according to the seasons, ensuring abundant crops and food.


In the early days, people sacrificed cows and buffaloes as offerings. Later, the spirit medium of the grandfather's ghost said that cows and buffaloes had great merit, so they should make "beautiful insects" or "hair ghosts" instead of killing cows and buffaloes. Therefore, it was called "playing hair ghosts" in the early days. However, every time there was a hair ghost play, it would rain. The name also changed according to the situation. Villagers believed that the hair ghost brought water from the sky, causing rain. From then on, it has been called "water hair ghost" until now.

The "Phi Khon Nam" ritual lasts for three days and shares similarities with the "Phi Ta Khon" festival (which will be discussed in a future post). It serves as an annual merit-making ceremony for the Na Sao villagers. Traditionally, the date and time of the ceremony were determined through communication between the "Jam" (ritual leader) and the spirits of Chao Pu Chiramanop and Chao Pu Phanthiphiphop, channeled through the medium of Bua Nang or Chao Mae Nang Thiam (the spirit's vessel). Currently, the ceremony is held on the first waning day of the sixth lunar month, which falls after Visakha Bucha Day.

This is enough for now. If you are really interested, you can easily find more information...

Translated: Back at the Phikhanam Ghost Demonstration Center, today's activity is painting Phikhanam masks. It's time to revive our coloring skills. It's a fun activity mixed with a little stress, hahaha. Well, with so many people drawing, there's always the fear that your work might not be as beautiful as others. After more than an hour, the art class is over. I must say, every mask is beautiful.

Many aspects of life are valuable, meaningful, and offer numerous perspectives for study. The history of the ethnic groups, the rituals based on ancient beliefs that have become present-day traditions, all demonstrate that time changes, the world changes, and ways of life change, but history cannot be changed. The transmission from generation to generation is of paramount importance in preserving the essence of one's identity for posterity.

The journey through the way of life and local identity of Loei has come to a perfect end. However, this is just a small part of the many stories that are still waiting for travelers to come and visit, come and see, and come and learn. There will be another time, but just this much, I feel that... I'm already in love with Loei.


Those who have followed me to this line, please stay tuned. Next time, I will take you on a journey to the path of nature, to climb the cliffs, to feel the cool air, and to see the flowers of the cold city. See you soon...

Original Text:


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