As the cool December breeze began to blow, I received a command from my wife to experience the soft sea of mist and bask in the cool air during our year-end vacation. This became my responsibility, and after scanning the map for a suitable location, I decided on a trip to Chiang Rai to chase the sea of mist at Phu Chi Fa, Phu Chi Dao, and Doi Pha Tang.

Before traveling, it is important to understand that Phu Chi Fa, Phu Chi Dao, and Doi Pha Tang are among the many peaks of the Luang Prabang mountain range, also known as the Doi Pha Mon mountain range. This range begins in the east of Chiang Rai and stretches south along the provinces of Phayao and Nan. Many parts of the mountain range form the natural border between Thailand and Laos.



In reality, the entire mountain range is full of peaks, depending on which peak will be developed into a tourist attraction. The famous ones are Phu Chi Fa, followed by Doi Pha Tang, and the latest one opened this year is Phu Chi Dao. Due to their close proximity, we can visit all three places in one trip.

Without a private car, it can be a bit difficult. You might be able to find public transportation from Wiang Kaen district to Doi Pha Tang, or from Thoeng district to Phu Chi Fa. However, there is no public transportation between Phu Chi Fa, Phu Chi Dao, and Doi Pha Tang. If you don't have a private car, you'll need to hire a songthaew (shared taxi). The price between Phu Chi Fa and Doi Pha Tang is 500 baht or more. If you don't want to hire a car, you can do what I did... rent a motorbike. There are plenty of rental shops in Chiang Rai city.

On this trip, I traveled with my wife from December 13th to 16th. We took an overnight bus from Korat, leaving on the evening of the 12th and arriving in Chiang Rai the next morning. Our first task was to rent a car. The bus stopped at the new bus terminal, but the motorbike rental shops are located on Charoenrat Road, near the old bus terminal and the clock tower. When we arrived, we had to take a blue songthaew from the new bus terminal to the old bus terminal for 15 baht per person. However, the songthaew only leaves when it is full. Otherwise, you can take a tuk-tuk for 50 baht per person.



There are many car rental shops near Jet Yod, choose as you like. Almost all of them have a deposit of 3,000 baht or more. I understand that Chiang Rai is a border area and there are drug problems in many areas. If you let go without a deposit, there is a high chance that the car will be stolen or used for illegal activities. Otherwise, if you want to walk around and ask for a shop that doesn't charge a deposit, try it yourself.

I opted to rent a motorbike from the largest ST shop in the area. I called ahead to reserve a bike since it was peak season. I chose an older Honda Wave 125 as my mode of transportation because the deposit for an older bike was 3,000 baht, while the deposit for a newer bike was 5,000 baht. I couldn't afford the higher deposit. The rental fee was relatively inexpensive, at 200 baht per day. The engine was a bit loose, suggesting it had been repaired several times. The odometer displayed a mileage of over 60,000 kilometers (roughly equivalent to driving from Mae Sai to Sungai Kolok 30 times). Despite this, it successfully carried me and my companion throughout our trip and presented no issues upon returning. The return process was quick and easy, with no meticulous inspection (perhaps due to the bike's age). I received my full deposit refund within a minute.



Okay, once you have your car, let's go! The easiest and shortest way to get to Phu Chi Fa is to go up through the Thoeng district. Start at the Mae Korn intersection and take Highway 1020. There are signs to Phu Chi Fa all the way, so you don't have to worry about getting lost. The total distance is about 120 kilometers.



However, those who go to Phu Chi Fa often get confused at this sign, which is located near Ban Pang Ka, Tab Taeng Subdistrict, Thoeng District. Let me tell you that you should go straight ahead, because the right turn is not suitable for ordinary cars.


The road to Phu Chi Fa is well paved throughout, with some bumps and steep sections. However, it is manageable for all types of vehicles, including large and small cars, motorcycles, manual and automatic transmissions. Just make sure you have some driving experience. My old Honda Wave, carrying two people and a large backpack, had no trouble climbing it.


Four hours from Chiang Rai city, we stopped for lunch, coffee, and took pictures along the way. Finally, we arrived at Baan Rom Fah Thai, the last checkpoint before ascending to Phu Chi Fa. Phu Chi Fa is a forest park under the care of the National Park Department. My real intention was to camp there. The park has tents for rent: 200 baht for a tent and 50 baht for a blanket. But after seeing the location of the two campsites near the top of the mountain, my wife decided she wasn't happy with it and wanted to find a guesthouse instead. When I received this order, I had no choice but to obey (haha...).

There are many guesthouses to choose from near Baan Rom Fah Thai. I found a place called "Huen Phak Ruam Sangsan" with a minimum price of 500 baht. It has a bed and hot water, which is all I need. It turned out that choosing to sleep at home was the right decision because that night, on the way up the mountain, there was a group of people playing loud music and drinking alcohol. It's sad that the problem of people not having manners and consideration for others in natural tourist attractions, which is easy to solve, cannot be managed in our country. (Let me cry for a moment...)


Let's continue after resting until we're not tired anymore. It's time to climb Phu Chi Fa for the first round. From the checkpoint, walk 2 kilometers to find a parking lot and shops. At this point, you have to walk another 400 meters. If you don't exercise much, get ready to be a little tired.


And this is Phu Chi Fa...


From the top of the mountain, you can see a panoramic view of both the Thai and Lao sides. A funny trick to tell which side is which is that if it's a bare hill, that's Thai territory. If it's lush and green with thick trees, that's Lao territory.



From the top of Phu Chi Fa, you can see Phu Chi Dao not far away. That's the highest point of Phu Chi Dao right there.


The beauty of Phu Chi Fa is not only in the morning. The sunset at Phu Chi Fa is also beautiful. My wife and I wandered around the top of the mountain until it was time to watch the sunset.


After descending from Phu Chi Fa, we came to Baan Rom Fah Thai for dinner. They serve regular à la carte dishes. When the loud music started, my wife and I decided to call it a night. We were quite tired as we had set our alarm for 4 am. As soon as the alarm went off, we jumped out of bed and rode our motorbikes through the cold to Phu Chi Fa. On the way up the mountain, we saw so many stars that we had to stop and set up our tripod to take some photos.


They then hurried to their spot at the popular corner before it was all taken, and when the beautiful moment arrived, they snapped away to their heart's content.




The sea of fog that we see is covering the entire Lao side. If you fall from the cliff, your relatives can contact the Lao authorities. In the past, there have been tourists who have fallen to their deaths, so please be careful. Take photos only as appropriate.

My wife and I took our time, admiring the mist and the trees without paying attention to the time. We wandered from one spot to another, enjoying the incredibly thick and soft mist. It seemed that the stronger the sun got, the thicker the mist became.


After enjoying the view, my stomach started to growl, so it was time to say goodbye to Phu Chi Fa and have lunch. I returned to my room, filled up the car with gas (there is a gas station in the village with both gasohol and diesel), packed my belongings, and set off for Doi Pha Tang in Ban Pha Tang, Wiang Kaen District, about 25 kilometers north of Phu Chi Fa. The entire way, we rode our motorcycles along the winding mountain slopes, enjoying the view of the overlapping mountain ranges.


On the way through Phu Chi Dao, at Ban Rom Pho Thong, but we went ahead first. We have a queue to come back another day.

Doi Pha Tang is not a national park or a forest park, but is under the care of the local government, the Por Subdistrict Administrative Organization. They have set up a camping area near the car park. You can rent tents and bedding at the shop in front, but when the lady saw the condition, she immediately shook her head. She refused to sleep in a tent at all, because it was like this. In fact, if anyone wants to camp, they can camp in the newly built building. There are toilets downstairs, but the atmosphere is not good at all.



Since I wasn't sleeping in a tent, I had to find a guesthouse. There aren't as many guesthouses at Pha Tang as there are at Phu Chi Fa, and the prices are slightly higher. I ended up at Chill Chill Guesthouse, which is located opposite Pha Tang Hill. The price per night was 600 baht, including breakfast. I thought it was a good deal, as it was a private house, clean and comfortable.



Just like at Phu Chi Fa, I wanted to experience the beautiful view of Doi Pha Tang with a clear sky. There are several viewpoints here, the main ones being Hill 102 and Hill 103, with distances of 450 meters and 950 meters respectively. It is recommended to conquer both hills, otherwise it is considered incomplete. The path goes up and down, but it is not too tiring.


Before the ascent to Hill 102, there is a point called "Channel of the Broken Cliff." It is characterized by limestone that has been eroded by wind and rain until it has broken apart.


Let's skip Hill 102 for now and head straight to the more distant Hill 103. It's half a kilometer away, but it's definitely worth the effort. We'll have a clear view of the Mekong River winding its way through the mountains. And what makes this spot even more special is that we'll be looking at the Laotian side of the river, not the border between Thailand and Laos. In fact, just by standing at the edge of the cliff, we're technically already in Laos.


Anyone who knows the flow of the Mekong River can probably imagine it flowing into Thailand at the Golden Triangle, forming the Thai-Lao border. Then, when it reaches Wiang Kaen district, it waves goodbye to Thailand and enters Laos. It then flows back to become the Thai-Lao border again at Chiang Khan district, Loei province. Therefore, the Mekong River that we see from Doi Pha Tang is entirely within Lao territory. In fact, this area was once Siamese territory before it was lost to the French, the colonial rulers of Laos, during the reign of King Rama V. Go and read the history yourselves.

Reaching Hill 103, we took in the breathtaking view. At an altitude of approximately 1,600 meters above sea level, it rivals the height of Phu Chi Fa. From this vantage point, Hill 102 was clearly visible in the distance.


Tourists are coming in steadily, not many but not too quiet either. For those who can't walk, there is a horse riding service available. Round trip, Hill 102 150 baht, Hill 103 350 baht.


It's time to go back to Hill 102 to watch the sunset. Today, the light is beautiful. We are so happy.


Ban Pha Tang is a Yunnan Chinese community. Along the way, we will see many Yunnan Chinese restaurants. After reading the sign for pork leg and steamed buns, I couldn't help but try it. I chose a restaurant called Baandin and ordered two dishes: pork leg and egg soup, and two steamed buns per person. The total price was almost four hundred baht because the pork leg alone was two hundred baht. It seems expensive, but the amount is not small at all. Most importantly, it was delicious. I think the taste of each restaurant should not be too different.


Tonight there was a meteor shower. I went out to watch it for a while and saw it fall in flashes every now and then. So I decided to go back to sleep and recharge. I set my alarm for 4:00 am because I had to walk a long way to see the sea of fog at Hill 103 in the morning. I managed my time well. My wife and I were the first group to walk up the cliff. When we reached Hill 103, it was still pitch dark. We sat there, bathed in the cold air, until the light began to appear, and then the beauty was revealed. Although the word on the street is that the sea of fog at Doi Pha Tang is much less these days, it's been many years since I've seen fog so thick it almost touched my feet. But even what I saw, I still felt it was magnificent and beautiful.

I kept searching for the perfect angle to take a picture. At this point, heaven is right in front of me.


Then, according to the steps, walk back to the hill 102. The corner here has a beautiful sea of fog that is no less beautiful.


My wife and I were the first to arrive and the last to leave. It was late by the time we came down, so we had lunch, packed our things, and then continued on our journey. Our final destination was Phu Chi Dao, Ban Rom Pho Thong, Wiang Kaen District, which is located between Phu Chi Fa and Doi Pha Tang.

Phu Chi Dao has just opened to the public this year. As I rode past yesterday, I noticed that there is no accommodation at the foot of the mountain. The closest on the Phu Chi Fa side is Phu Chi Fa Khun Ton, while the closest on the Doi Pha Tang side is a tent site called Baan Fang. I would like to try it out, and that will be our accommodation.

Leaving Doi Pha Tang and heading back towards Phu Chi Dao, after a while we reached Baan Fang. They had only been open to tourists for less than two months. There were no bungalows, just a camping ground that didn't even have grass laid yet. If you didn't bring your own tent, you could rent one from them for 200 baht per person, including a sleeping bag and breakfast. I didn't mind the price, and finally got to sleep in a tent.


This place can be categorized as an agritourism destination. Initially, Uncle Kai, the owner of the farm, who moved here last year, cleared the land for planting crops and growing flowers for sale. He then added the concept of tourism and opened a tent camping site. There are reasonably convenient bathrooms with hot water showers. Electricity from the national grid is not available, but Uncle Kai provides electricity from solar panels and hydropower. The water is a mountain water system with pipes from the source. It's quite ingenious.

Visitors can explore the various crops, especially the innovative strawberry patch grown in a greenhouse. The beautiful flowers vary depending on the season. If you're lucky, you might meet Nong An, a young Hmong girl who will guide you around the farm with a charming smile.


After a quick visit to the tent and a tour of the straw house, I took my wife to Baan Rom Pho Din with the intention of climbing Phu Chi Dao first. It was a fifteen-minute motorbike ride to the bottom of the mountain, where there was a convenience store, a gas station, and a parking area for vehicles that would take us up the mountain.

To explain briefly, Phu Chi Dao is under the care of the community. On top, there is a field where you can pitch a tent. There are small toilets available for use in case of emergency. Currently, there is no charge for camping, but the village will arrange volunteers to provide security, so a small tip would be appreciated.

To reach the top of the mountain, there will be local pickup trucks with four-wheel drive waiting for you at the bottom. The round-trip fare is 100 baht per person, but there is a minimum of five people. This means that the fixed price for less than five people is 500 baht.


Now comes the important question: can motorcycles go up? Follow me, because the first time I went up, I tried using a motorcycle. I thought that when I came to see the sea of fog in the morning, I would hire a car to support the villagers.

The ascent to Phu Chi Dao is approximately 3 kilometers. The first few hundred meters are a concrete road that cuts through a Hmong village. After that, it becomes a dirt road, which is steep in some sections and has slippery mud in others. I was riding a Honda Wave with a passenger and couldn't get past 300 meters on the dirt road. I had to give up. I shifted into first gear and accelerated as much as I could, but there wasn't enough power. I had rented the motorcycle, and if I had crashed, I would have lost my deposit.


In this case, the car gave up, it couldn't go any further, but our two feet could still walk. So we carried the lady up the rest of the way. On the way, a shiny Honda Click roared past us. When we reached a muddy pothole, we had to get the passenger off to help push. It was a real struggle, but we made it to the top. The next morning, three big bikes rode up. They had to get off and push, using all their strength to reach the parking lot.

Therefore, it can be concluded that motorcycles can be ridden up Phu Chi Dao. However, the condition of the motorcycle must be excellent, and advanced skills are required. Those who are considering taking the risk should be prepared to accept the consequences. Considering the route and the risks involved for both the vehicle and the driver, I believe that the 500 baht fee for the up-and-down service is very reasonable. It is better to pay for it.

My wife and I walked for a while and rested when we were tired. It took about an hour to reach the parking spot. We passed a Honda Click motorcycle coming down just as we were going up. From here, it's another 400 meters of steep climb to the top of the mountain. Let's push ourselves for one more stretch.



What I found was a scene like this. Phu Chi Dao has an altitude of about 1,800 meters above sea level, which is higher than both Phu Chi Fa and Doi Pha Tang. Overall, although I didn't like the view here more than Doi Pha Tang, many of the elements were amazing. Looking one way, you can see the Mekong River bend in the distance, and looking the other way, you can see Phu Chi Fa standing tall in the distance. In some sections, the ridge is narrow, and each step is quite thrilling. Once you get here, your fatigue will disappear.



Due to the long walk up, I was unable to stay and watch the sunset at Phu Chi Dao. I had to hurry down even though I hadn't captured all the angles. I was secretly angry at myself for not paying for a car, because some places we may only visit once in our lives.

Fang's house is not yet ready to serve dinner. After coming down the mountain, I rode my motorbike to Rom Fai Thai restaurant at the foot of Phu Chi Fa mountain. I bought sticky rice, papaya salad, and grilled chicken to take back and eat. I sat and talked with Uncle Kai while warming myself by the fire. I drank warm Khao Ya Khu (rice milk) and ate hot grilled bananas that Uncle Kai had prepared for me. I sat and watched the stars in the sky. It was a night with a big smile.


I set my alarm for 4:30 am, rode my motorbike to Phu Chi Dao, parked it, jumped into a pickup truck, and held on tight to a 500 baht note as we took off. Before I knew it, I saw three big bikes speeding past me, only to have to push and pull their way up the steep hill to the top of the mountain. I have to admit, they were amazing for making it up there.

Reaching the summit, I was momentarily stunned by the thick, billowing sea of fog that had persisted for two days. I hadn't anticipated encountering such a situation. The wind whipped through the mountain passes, scattering the fog into a blinding white blanket that enveloped the entire peak. Visibility was no more than fifty meters.


Having climbed up, we had to wait patiently for a while. The strong wind blew cold, and we had no idea when the sun would rise. We had to wait until the white mist began to thin out, which only took a few tens of seconds. Then, the image we wanted to see appeared faintly. Although it wasn't a perfect sea of mist, in the current situation, we were already very lucky.


I decided to leave Phu Chi Dao around nine in the morning and rode back to Baan Fang. Uncle Gai had already prepared breakfast for me: coffee and fried rice with egg and salt. It may seem ordinary, but it tasted excellent. I don't know if it was because I was hungry (haha...). Almost all the ingredients on the plate came from the farm, except for the oil and fish sauce, which had to be bought.


After a nap in the tent to regain some strength, I packed my things. Around noon, I had to say goodbye to Uncle Kai. I took the same route back that I had taken to get there. I started the car at noon and arrived in Chiang Rai city around four in the afternoon. I found something to eat and returned the car at five o'clock. I took a tuk-tuk to the new bus terminal and waited for the bus back to Korat at half past nine. I ended the trip safely.

Three nights, three mountains, three seas of fog in Chiang Rai. This was one of the most enjoyable trips we've ever taken. It was challenging, but also incredibly rewarding. The pictures speak for themselves...

Let's end with a video of the sea of fog at Sam Khun Mountain in Chiang Rai.

Please translate this sentence.


Anyone interested in reading other reviews of mine or wanting to chat casually, ask for information (if I have it), or invite me to travel, I'd be delighted.

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