The thought that if I haven't been there this year, I shouldn't call myself a travel lover anymore, because I've been aiming to visit "Sam Phan Bok" for many years, but I've always postponed it and haven't been able to go yet. I once had the opportunity to visit the area for work, but it was during the rainy season when the water was overflowing. So this year, I'm determined to go no matter what. Moreover, since I've moved from Bangkok to Korat, the travel distance has been greatly reduced.

After deciding to backpack to Sam Phan Bok, I had to do some research. After searching and searching, I found a motorcycle rental shop in Ubon Ratchathani called JJ Motorcycle Rental. I called to inquire about the rental fee, which was 250 baht per day with a 1,000 baht deposit. I read their Facebook page and it was okay. This was perfect because it would be very difficult to visit all the tourist attractions along the Mekong River in Ubon without a car.

(1)

I went alone, no need for much. I stuffed my clothes in a backpack, camera, tripod, and another tent to carry and find a place to sleep. Traveling by free local train 421 Nakhon Ratchasima-Ubon Ratchathani, morning trip at 6.10 am. The schedule on the ticket is six hours. Starting at the beginning like this, I can find a comfortable seat.

From Korat to Ubon, the map that pops into my head is passing through Buriram, Surin, and Si Sa Ket. I'll probably get to visit these provinces sometime in the future. And incredibly, I haven't seen the SRT on time like this in a long time. It arrived at Ubon Ratchathani Station just five minutes behind schedule. What a surprise! (lol...)

I learned something new: Ubon Ratchathani Railway Station is located in Warin Chamrap District, not Mueang District. But don't worry, Warin District and Mueang Ubon are right next to each other, just on opposite sides of the Mun River. I asked an officer and found out that there are two-baht songthaews from Warin Municipal Market that go directly to Si Yai Wat Chaeng Intersection, where the motorbike rental shop is located. Alternatively, if you don't want to walk from the train station to Warin Market, you can take a white songthaew from the station to the city center and then transfer to another bus. I chose the first option and walked to the bus stop at the market, which was about 700-800 meters.

Twenty minutes on the Songthaew Wan Yen took me into town, passing Saraphith Prasoong Hospital (known locally as the 'Big Hospital'), Ubon Ratchathani City Police Station, and arriving at the Wat Chaeng intersection. JJ Motorcycle Rental is located near the intersection, just a few tens of meters away. After a brief negotiation, I secured my ride for this trip. The staff were friendly and helpful. This shop not only rents motorcycles but also cars and eco-cars. You can even pick up your vehicle at the airport.

I plan to travel in a triangle, starting from the city center to Khong Chiam district, following the Mekong River to Pho Sai district, Sam Phan Bok, and then taking a car back to Ubon Ratchathani city. Starting from Kaeng Tana National Park, Pak Mul Dam, Khong Chiam, the distance from the city center is about 80 kilometers. The easy route is from the city center to Warin Chamrap district (back to the train station), entering Phibun Mangsahan district, and then to Khong Chiam district.

I started riding around two in the afternoon. I passed through the district of Phibun Mangsahan and saw a sign for the Kaeng Sapue tourist attraction. I decided to stop by for a bit. It's a rocky outcrop in the middle of the Mun River, and the area is set up like a public park for tourists and locals to relax and have fun. I took some photos and then continued on my way.

The road from Phibun Mangsahan to Khong Chiam is quite good. Just keep riding and you will eventually see a sign for Kaeng Tana National Park. Turn according to the sign and after a while you will find the Pak Moon Dam. You can ride your motorbike across the dam and then turn left a little bit and you will arrive at the park office.

Kaeng Tana is a rocky shoal in the middle of the Mun River before it flows into the Mekong River, not far away. During the dry season like this, the Pak Mun Dam holds back water, so this area becomes a beautiful rocky shoal. I came here once during the rainy season, but what will I see? It has to be like this time to be called arriving at the right place and time.

In the park, there is a restaurant that sells food until five in the evening. I pitched my tent and slept according to the formula, which is to order it in a box first. There is only one tent, the bathroom is okay. In the evening, there are officers who come to sleep and take care of the safety at the tourist service building. You can charge your battery inside. Tonight, the stars are not bright yet, I give up and faint.

In the morning, I woke up and took a walk to take pictures of Kaeng Tana, which was so satisfying. I prefer the morning sun to the afternoon sun. The rocks are beautiful, the water is calm, there are few tourists, and the atmosphere is peaceful and quiet.

From Kaeng Tana, you can see a suspension bridge crossing to an island in the middle of the river called Don Tana. The way to the suspension bridge is not far from the park office and tourist accommodation. Let's go see the view.

Aside from Kaeng Tana and the suspension bridge, the park also offers a short nature trail called Lan Pha Phueng, which is about 1.5 kilometers long, making it a 3-kilometer round trip. Along the way, there are岔路 leading to Tham Phra and Namtok Rak Thai, which is like underground water flowing down the banyan tree roots that cling to the cliff face. In reality, it doesn't look like a waterfall. As for Tham Phra, it's a small cave formed by a rock overhang. From the name, you can probably guess that various Buddha statues have been discovered there. In the past, there were monks who practiced asceticism and stayed in the cave. I sat and talked with them for hours, but now they are no longer there. The park no longer allows it.

The cliffside terrace is a popular spot for watching the sunrise. However, during the dry season, the vast expanse of rock can be scorching hot, as you can see. The ideal time to visit is during the late rainy season and early winter, when wildflowers bloom and create a refreshing atmosphere. If you don't want to sunbathe during the hot season, you can skip this spot altogether. (Haha...)

(2)

Leaving Keng Tana National Park, our next destination was Pha Taem National Park. On the way, we stopped to admire the Mekong River at Khong Chiam District. This is a viewpoint where you can see the two-colored river, where the Mun River meets the Mekong River. During the rainy season, the Mun River is still relatively clear, while the Mekong River is cloudy and red, hence the name "Mekong River, the color of cement, Mun River, the color of indigo." However, during our visit, we saw only one color because both the Mun and Mekong rivers were clear.

Pha Taem is less than 20 kilometers from Khong Chiam district. Just a short motorbike ride away, the first mission upon arrival is to pitch a tent. There is a tent site before the path up to the cliff. Camping on the cliff face is only allowed on New Year's Eve. Food is the same as usual, you can buy lunch boxes and prepare them in advance. Electricity is available for charging batteries at the service center building.

Not far from the camping ground, there is a group of pavilion pillars. It is located by the road. You can park your car and take a picture.

Okay, then let's go up to Pha Taem for a bit. This is another place I visited during the rainy season, and it was during a heavy downpour. So this time, I consider it a chance to make amends. We can park our car at the top and walk a little bit to get there. I spent my time leisurely admiring the view from the cliff. As for the trail to see the prehistoric rock paintings, we'll do that tomorrow. I have plenty of time.

Besides being a sunrise viewpoint, Pha Taem also has a sunset viewpoint. It is located behind the tourist service center.

The next day, at five o'clock sharp, we bounced out of our tents and rode our bikes up to the cliff to catch the sunrise. The morning was beautiful, and there were almost a hundred tourists waiting to watch the sun rise.

In the morning, after taking care of personal matters and having lunch, I took a walk along the painted path, which is about 4 kilometers in a circle. There are four points of paintings: Pha Kham, Pha Taem, Pha Mon, and Pha Mon Noi. But if anyone thinks it's too far, at least walk to the second point, which is the highlight, and then turn back the same way, a total distance of about 1.5 kilometers. As for me, of course, I had to complete it. The path runs along the edge of the cliff very well. I saw the paintings at each point along the way.

After the third point at Pha Mon, the path winds back up to the cliff face. If you want to see the last group of images at Pha Mon Noi, there will be a岔路口, the path is a bit narrow, so be careful.

Then walk back to the starting point. Near the parking lot, you will find a wide cliff face. This point is called Alexander the Great because it was once the filming location for the famous Hollywood movie of the same name. It is the most beautiful viewpoint of Pha Taem. If you don't walk around to this point, you can walk up from the cliff below, it's not far, you can see it just a little bit here.

Around one o'clock in the afternoon, it was time to pack up the tent and backpack and tie them to the back of the car. We descended from Pha Taem, our destination being Pha Cha Na Dai, which everyone must have heard of. Pha Cha Na Dai is located within the Pha Taem National Park, but the way up is much more difficult as it is all laterite. I asked several officials until I was sure that besides four-wheel drive vehicles, motorcycles could also go up for sure. So what are we waiting for?

(3)

From Pha Taem, I rode my motorbike for a while until I saw a sign pointing to Pha Cha Na Dai or Pa Dong Na Tham. I followed the sign, turning corner after corner, until I finally stopped here.

This is the way up to Pha Charanai Dai, 15 kilometers of gravel road, passing through rocky plains, sandy plains, grasslands, red clay gravel, passing through everything that will make us encounter difficulties (who wants to see the full route, someone made a clip on YouTube, click > http://bit.ly/1phLB3A) I repeat that only four-wheel drive vehicles, lifted pickups and motorcycles can go up. Those who do not have a car, please contact the villagers' car or Na Pho Klang Subdistrict Administrative Organization.

It was a long 15 kilometers, maybe not the toughest trail I've ever ridden, but because it was a rental motorcycle, I had to be extra careful and move slowly. Starting at two in the afternoon, I reached the tourist service building a little after three. This is also a camping area. There are bathrooms, but use water sparingly as it is collected from rainwater. There are no other sources of fresh water up here, and the electricity is solar-powered, available from dusk to early morning.

There are officers on duty here all the time, but there are not many tourists. Of course, I am the only one here today.

The Chana Dai cliff is about 400 meters from the tent site. You can walk or ride a motorcycle. This is my first time here, so I'd rather walk. To be honest, I'm tired of riding a motorcycle. (Haha...) When I arrived, I could only say "Oh". I've heard the name all my life, and finally I'm standing here. I can see the Mekong River flowing as far as the eye can see.

Being a solo traveler here is incredibly peaceful. The only sounds are the wind, the leaves, and the natural world. The only company I have are the stars above.

Before dawn the next day, I must confess that there has never been a time in my life when my heart has raced more to photograph the sunrise. Before half past four, I had already ridden my motorbike to stand and wait at Pha Chanadai. On this special morning of February 29th, I was the only one who saw the first sunrise of Siam... It was so cool.

Besides Pha Cha Na Dai, there are many other interesting places in Dong Na Tham Forest. However, because it is the dry season now, the forest on the sandstone mountain is rather withered. So I chose to see only one more spot, the twin pillars of Saluang. There is a signpost there, 4 kilometers from the tent site. It is also a sunset viewing point. But the path is quite rough. So yesterday evening, I had to give it a miss because I was afraid of danger. If I have the chance next time, I will try to explore Dong Na Tham Forest to the fullest. The best time to visit is at the end of the rainy season and the beginning of the winter. There will be wildflowers, and at Pha Cha Na Dai, you might even see a sea of mist.

(4)

The uphill climb was as difficult as the downhill descent. We reached the bottom around noon and had lunch and rested the car for a while. It was almost afternoon when we continued our journey. Our destination was Sam Phan Bok, a place I had been wanting to visit for a long time, but after several days, we still hadn't arrived (lol...). However, on the way to Sam Phan Bok, we saw a sign for the Ban Pha Chan tourist spot, and we couldn't resist turning in.

Wow... Ban Pha Chan is another spot where the Mekong River is very beautiful during the dry season. But before reaching the Mekong River, we will pass by the giant Sala pillars, which are considered the largest Sala pillars in our country. I didn't miss the chance to take a picture of it.

At the end of the village, you will reach the Mekong River pier, where you will find a steep cliff called Pha Chan. Of course, you can only see this high cliff when the water level is low. There may not be beautiful rapids or rock formations, but overall I think this place is very impressive. You can walk along the cliff and take pictures. Most importantly, not many people come here yet.

After much deliberation, I decided to set up camp nearby (there is a shop and a pavilion at the bottom of the road, which should be a good place to set up camp) or go to Sam Phan Bok. After much deliberation, I decided to go to Sam Phan Bok. I'm dying to see the place. It's only about 20 kilometers away.

Before arriving at Sam Phan Bok, I was always wondering what it would be like and how to get there. Information from various sources was unclear. Some people took a boat, while others took a car. Let me explain it simply. The area called "Sam Phan Bok" is very large, covering more than 10 square kilometers. However, the main tourist attractions are located in Laeng Ngam Subdistrict. There is only one accommodation there, "Sam Phan Bok Kitchen." They mainly focus on camping grounds, but there are two rooms converted from houses. From Sam Phan Bok Kitchen, you can walk down to the landmark points, including the Dog's Head Rock, Mickey Mouse Rock, and the Double Heart Rock.

Other accommodations are not located at this point. Some are located along the main road, some are located in Song Kon sub-district, and some are located at Salad Beach. If you stay at those places, you will have to take a boat or car to visit Sam Phan Bok at the point where Krua Sam Phan Bok is located. I'm not saying that Krua Sam Phan Bok is the best, but if you want to see Sam Phan Bok, this is the place to visit.

Another spot to visit the Three Thousand Holes is a point made by the Subdistrict Administrative Organization, about half a kilometer from the Three Thousand Holes Kitchen. We can park our car there, but we will have to walk or take a songthaew for ten baht per person to the point near the Three Thousand Holes Kitchen.

I realized this because when I first arrived at Sam Phan Bok, I went to the viewpoint of the Tambon Administrative Organization. And what I saw was quite different from what I had imagined or seen in pictures. It looked like... not quite right. It wasn't quite it yet. Mistakes are teachers, so it's okay because I had plenty of time. Besides, the evening sky wasn't very clear, so I just wandered around, not really interested in taking pictures.

As darkness approached, I rode my motorbike to the Sam Phan Bok kitchen to pitch my tent for the night. The camping fee was 40 baht per person, and if you didn't bring your own tent, they had some for rent. There were plenty of restrooms and multiple electrical outlets for charging devices. The restaurant was open until five or six in the evening, so you could order food in advance. If you were in a large group, you could also set up camp on the sandbars, but I was alone, so I decided against it.

The camping area at Sam Phan Bok was okay, but in the evening, there was a sudden strong wind of 180 degrees. It was impossible to pitch a tent in these conditions, so I took shelter next to a restaurant.

Tonight before the moon rises, the stars are beautiful. But the wind is too strong, so I'd rather sleep warm in the tent. Save my energy for the morning.

(5)

The next morning, I woke up before the rooster crowed. But since I had never been to the highlight of Sam Phan Bok, I didn't know where it was. This morning, I had to choose to take a picture of the sunrise at the point I had seen before. It was quite beautiful.

With the sky finally clear, it's time to explore the real Sam Phan Bok. I don't know how to describe it, but let me just say it's incredibly beautiful, magnificent, and amazing. And hot! (Haha...) It's hard to believe that all of this was submerged underwater during the rainy season. It's a testament to the boundless power of nature.

Hiking at Sam Phan Bok is like climbing a mountain. The more you climb, the more fun it gets. You keep climbing and walking, and before you know it, you've covered kilometers. It's really enjoyable. The curiosity about what lies ahead keeps you going.

Around noon, I returned to eat at the Sam Phan Bok kitchen. I was debating whether to go to Kaeng Chom Dao in Na Tal district, which is currently popular and only about ten kilometers away. However, I haven't even explored all of Sam Phan Bok yet. In the end, I decided not to go to Kaeng Chom Dao, but before I went back to explore Sam Phan Bok again, I wanted to visit Had Salung in Ban Song Kon, which is nearby.

This year, the Mekong River's water level is relatively higher than in previous years because China has been releasing water from its dams periodically. The Sa Loong sandbar in Ban Song Kon has only just emerged, and it doesn't look as grand as expected.

Coming to Had Salung, I found out that there is an interesting place nearby called Pha Wat Jai, located in the next village. Normally, people take a boat there, but you can also ride a motorcycle. After asking for directions from the villagers four or five times, I finally arrived. The cliff face is similar to that of Ban Pha Chan, but it stands out with a sharp, pointed rock formation jutting out, which is called Pha Wat Jai. It's quite a thrill.

In the late afternoon, I returned to Sam Phan Bok and started walking around again in a different zone. It was clear that the landscape here is amazingly beautiful. Everywhere you look is beautiful. There's no way we can see it all on foot, but I can tell you that the farther you walk, the harder you work, or the more you enjoy walking, the more beauty you'll see. Or if you take a boat trip, that's even better. It's a pity that I came alone, so I had to pass.

The wind wasn't strong tonight, but I left the tent where it was. A group of five or six photographers went down to the beach to take pictures of the stars at night. They must be professionals.

The next day, I woke up at 5 am as usual. I grabbed my flashlight and walked to the spot where I waited to take pictures of the sunrise. This time, I knew the spot, so I went all out and didn't miss a thing. The landmark had to be the dog's head rock. It was another impressive morning.

Today I've decided that it's enough. It's probably time to pack up and leave Baan Kaeng Chom Dao or Haad Chom Dao for the next time. That way, I'll have an incentive to come back. Even if there wasn't anywhere else, I'd still want to come back and visit the Mekong River again. I haven't even mentioned the many waterfalls along the way, which are especially beautiful in late rainy season and early winter. These include Thung Na Muang Waterfall, Saeng Chan Waterfall, and Soei Sawan Waterfall (I've been to all of them during the rainy season). But now it's the dry season, so the waterfalls are naturally dry. You could say that you can visit here during the rainy season, hot season, or cold season.

The return train departed from Ubon Ratchathani Station at 12:30. I rode my motorbike back through Pho Sai and Trakan Phuet Phon, arriving in Ubon Ratchathani city at around 11:00. Returning the motorbike was no problem, as it was in good condition despite heavy use. I received my deposit back quickly. I then took a songthaew from Wat Chaeng to Warin Chamrap market, and walked to the train station in time to catch my train.

Six days and five nights on the road from Khong Chiam to Pho Sai was one of the most amazing trips. I saw so many things and realized how amazing the Mekong River is during the dry season. Its grandeur makes this river full of legends and stories. But no matter who tells you how wonderful this place is, believe them only half as much as you believe me. Because you will never truly know its magnificent power unless you see it with your own eyes...

If you're interested in other blog reviews of mine, or if you'd like to chat, ask me questions (if I have the answers, of course), or invite me on a trip, I'd be delighted.

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#ubon ratchathani#khong chiam#three thousand bends
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