The Myanmar trip came about because I wanted to visit Bagan, also known as Pagan, and I didn't want to go with a tour group. I don't like the hustle and bustle of large crowds. I prefer to soak in everything around me and experience the lives of the people and their normal routines in different places. However, this trip did not miss the famous landmarks, including the old city of Bagan, the Kyaiktiyo Pagoda, and Yangon. Five full days in Myanmar, following the flow (October 13-17, 2014). This trip uses pictures to tell the story.

October 13, 2020, this time with Nok Air DD4230 departing Don Mueang at 6:20 AM.

Departed from a house near Buddha Monthon Sai 2 at 4:38 AM. Encountered a taxi driver who drove like a maniac and arrived at Don Mueang Airport at 5:06 AM, taking only 28 minutes. The excitement began as soon as we started our journey. We joined the queue for baggage scanning, where there were many people. Our luggage was the smallest among those who checked in their bags. When we joined the queue to check in, we encountered three tour groups. We didn't have to wait long before we got a window seat as requested. When it was time to board the plane, we were excited to admire the view through the window, but the glass was cracked. However, we soon disembarked. As we had no luggage, we rushed off the plane first, escaping the tour groups. In the end, we still had to waste time with immigration officers. After collecting our luggage, we rushed to exchange money and then looked for a taxi to the bus station to buy a ticket for our trip to Bagan that night. (Initially, we planned to travel during the day and sleep on the bus while changing cities, but someone asked us where we would shower, so we had to abandon the plan.) After bargaining with the taxi driver for a long time, we agreed on a price of $5. He even left without waiting for anyone else. The journey from the airport to the bus station took about 45 minutes. Yangon has quite a lot of traffic jams. The taxi driver took us to buy tickets at Bagan Minn Thar Express. The ticket price was 13,000 Kyats, and the departure time was 7 PM. We left our backpack there and then took the same taxi back to the city to drop us off at Sule Pagoda for $5 after much bargaining. The taxi driver was kind enough to give us a bottle of water and a snack.

Traffic has become increasingly congested, with cars honking their horns incessantly, creating a dizzying cacophony. Upon arriving at Sule Pagoda, we embarked on our exploratory journey. Today, we donned jeans and sneakers, necessitating the removal of both shoes and socks at every temple we visited. (Initially, unaware of this custom, we arrived fully clothed and comfortably shod.)

Sule Pagoda, with a history of over 2,000 years, is an octagonal-shaped stupa with an elegant structure, standing 157 feet tall. The Burmese people regard Sule Pagoda as the "heart" of the capital city of Yangon, while the Shwedagon Pagoda is the "spirit" of the Burmese and Mon people. The entrance fee is $2, and the shoe deposit fee is at your discretion.

Outside before paying the entrance fee

Inside after paying the entrance fee and leaving your shoes.

After leaving Sule Pagoda, take a short walk to Mahabandoola Park, home to the Independence Monument.

After completing the circuit, we began to explore the outside, admiring the architecture around Yangon.

I came across a tea shop on the side of the road and saw many Burmese people drinking there, so I decided to try it. The tea was fragrant, but it was a bit too sweet for my taste.

Venturing into the market, I was captivated by the local way of life. Produce was displayed directly on the ground, with vehicles simply driving over it. The bustling atmosphere of the market was truly remarkable.

Wandering through the fresh market, the fabric market, and the market for various appliances, it was already 1 pm and I was starting to feel hungry. I looked for a simple local restaurant near the market, and found one that served something similar to our "khanom jeen" (rice noodles with curry). It was delicious.

Lunch with coke and tea cost 1,000 kyats. After lunch, I walked to a nearby mall to cool down and use the clean restroom.

We then switched to an Ooredoo SIM card with a 7-day data plan for 5,000 kyats and continued exploring. We wandered down various streets and alleys until we came across a temple, which we quickly crossed the road to visit (I don't recall the temple's name, as we hadn't planned on sightseeing in Yangon). I was particularly drawn to the ornate archway at the entrance.

The pagoda within the temple beautifully reflects the sunlight.

The interior of the pagoda houses Buddha statues.

Leaving the temple, we headed towards our destination for the day, the Shwedagon Pagoda. We continued to be mischievous and wandered into alleys, getting lost again. But it was a lot of fun, and we got to see another side of Yangon.

It was only about 2 kilometers from Sule Pagoda to Shwedagon Pagoda, but we ended up walking 3.5 kilometers (including getting lost). We stopped to take this picture before continuing.

Continuing on, we reached the entrance to Shwedagon Pagoda. While there were many shops along the way, the area was not overly crowded with tourists. At the security checkpoint, we placed our bags through a scanner and walked through a metal detector. Once cleared, we proceeded to the entrance fee counter, where we paid $8. We were given a sticker and a map. Our first impression of Shwedagon Pagoda was awe-inspiring, even though it was undergoing renovations.

After leaving Shwedagon Pagoda, I crossed the street and came across another beautiful pagoda.

She then hailed a taxi to the Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda and waited, ready to be taken to the bus station, which is located in another corner of the city, for 9,000 kyat.

The taxi driver who dropped us off was very friendly. He took the ticket we had booked and asked for directions to the ticket booth (I don't remember, I was still groggy this morning). We arrived at around 5:00 pm, so we went out to find something to eat. For our second meal in Yangon, we ordered fried rice (don't say we ordered, it's more like we pointed). It looked good but it was very oily, and the pork was fatty and tough.

After eating, I went back to wait for the bus. After waiting for a while, the Burmese people started talking to me. It was fun to learn how to communicate in a different language. The driver told me that I could go up and sit on the bus, where the air conditioning was cool. The bus looked brand new.

Upon boarding the bus, we changed into shorts, using the sarong to our advantage. The Burmese people were confused, wondering what we were up to. After changing, we were about to change our shoes when the person sitting next to us arrived, so we didn't. The bus provided a liter of water, a cold towel with a toothbrush set, and a betel nut spittoon. The bus departed right on time. Before leaving, the driver always played a prayer. Afterwards, there was a Burmese drama. Even though we couldn't understand it, we laughed along with the enjoyment.

The car drove at varying speeds along the route, stopping at the Pioneer food court. We didn't eat anything, as we were more tired than hungry. We got off to use the restroom and waited for the next bus. The bus arrived at the Bagan bus station, a new station located almost 10 kilometers outside the city. Upon arrival, we were swarmed by taxis, rickshaws, and motorcycles. We tried to avoid them, but one person followed us persistently, likely a broker for the transportation services. We informed him that we wanted to purchase a ticket first before deciding on our destination. He took us to buy a return ticket from the same company we came from, but it was full. He then took us to another company used by locals, where the price was 13,000 kyat, the same as the previous one, but with the added service of picking us up at the station. In the end, we ended up getting ripped off by a taxi from the bus station to the Eden Hotel for 8,000 kyat. We had no choice but to accept it, as it was raining and we had no other way to get there.

The entrance fee to the old city is $15. The taxi dropped us off at the Eden Hotel. Upon arrival, we were shown the rooms before making a decision. They offered both dormitory and private rooms. We were shown a private room, which was acceptable, so we decided to take it. Initially, we wanted a dormitory room, but they discouraged us from doing so. We agreed on a price of $15, including breakfast.

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As soon as I entered the room, I took a nap and woke up at 9 am. I hurried out to find something to eat. We walked to the Unione Market and saw a restaurant with a lot of people, which looked delicious. The menu also had pictures, and there was free wifi. I didn't know what to order, so I had fried rice again. This restaurant looked very delicious, and it was delicious. The coffee here is 3 in 1, and it's all brands from our home country. This meal cost 2,000 kyat.

After a satisfying meal, we decided to take a stroll to aid digestion. We explored both the fresh market and the souvenir market. We spotted Burmese marionettes, which I had been wanting for a while. We inquired about the price. Initially, they quoted 10,000 kyat for the large size, 8,000 kyat for the medium size, and 6,000 kyat for the small size. We began negotiating and managed to secure the medium size for 7,500 kyat. We purchased four marionettes, bringing the final cost to 20,000 kyat.

After getting the desired items at a reasonable price, we walked back to our accommodation to store our belongings. We then rented a bicycle for 1,000 kyats to explore the ancient city of Bagan. It was around 10 am. We started from our accommodation towards Nyaung U Market, but turned left to enter the old city. The first landmark we encountered was the Shwezigon Pagoda. We found a shady spot to park our bicycle and put on a longyi at the entrance. The Burmese people watched us as we put it on. After we finished tying it, they started talking to each other and smiling at us (it would have been strange if they didn't talk about whether we were wearing it correctly). I must say that we had already been taught by the hotel staff how to tie it, so we managed to do it, although not perfectly. There was no entrance fee here, so we continued walking. Someone tried to sell us flowers, but we refused until they shoved them into our arms. We returned them, saying "no" with a stern face, but in the end, we relented and bought three large bundles for 1,000 kyats. As we walked around, a child followed us and peeked at us while we were taking pictures. We gave him a caramel candy. After a while, he came back. We put our camera down, and the child picked it up and started taking pictures. It seemed like he wanted to take pictures for us. We gave him 200 kyats as a reward, and he ran away happily (thank goodness he didn't go and get his friends).

Following directions to the ancient city of Bagan, I was told to simply keep cycling and I would eventually find it. As I rode under the bright sunshine, passing numerous hotels, guesthouses, and restaurants, I came across an old pagoda.

The more I cycled, the more pagodas I saw. It was starting to get fun. I climbed the ones I could, and skipped the ones I couldn't.

We cycled until the sun set, captivated by the vast field of pagodas.

It was time to go home, but I had forgotten to bring a flashlight. I hurried out of the pagoda field and got lost in a farmer's field. It was already dark by the time I reached the main road, but I still didn't want to go home. I stopped by the temple first, where I saw many Burmese people entering.

We cycled back to our accommodation safely and returned the bicycles. We asked if we could rent an e-bike the next day, and they said yes, we could pick it up at 5 am. We went up to take a shower and prepare to go out to the market to find local food. We ended up trying the local noodles, which cost 500 kyat and were delicious. We sat with some Burmese people and watched them prepare their food, but we didn't follow their lead.

After eating, I wanted to find a coffee shop, but they were all closed. I went back to my room to sleep at 9:30 PM, as I couldn't understand the TV here.

On the morning of the 3rd, I woke up at 4:45 am and only managed to wash my face and brush my teeth. I then went downstairs, but the hotel door was still locked and the staff were still asleep. I wondered if I should wake them up. After a while, I went to check the door and found that it was only locked with a latch, so I was able to open it. I went to the shop where I had rented an e-bike and told them that I would return the bike at around 4 pm. I paid the rental fee of 5,000 kyat. This time, it was easy to ride the bike, but don't expect it to be fast. It was only slightly faster than a bicycle, but at least I didn't have to pedal. My goal for the morning was to visit the Bulaydi Pagoda to watch the sunrise and see the light mist in the field of pagodas.

Today, I was lucky enough to capture several photos of hot air balloons soaring through the sky.

As the sun began to rise, we continued our exploration of the pagoda field on this e-bike.

This temple has been extensively renovated, resulting in a significant loss of its historical character. The renovation was carried out by a country that, in my opinion, lacks an appreciation for the aesthetic value of ancient monuments.

My stomach growled in protest, so I rode my motorbike back to the hotel for breakfast. It looked small, but I was surprisingly full. I don't like bananas, so I gave them back.

After eating, I went upstairs to take a shower and pack my bags. I left them downstairs and rode a motorbike to Wat Tilomminlo.

Sulamani Temple

Ananda Temple

Shwegugyi Temple

Mya Zedi Monastery

Horse-drawn carriages are a charming feature of Bagan, but we didn't take a ride.

The time had come to return the car and take a shower. I waited for a long time for a car to pick me up at the bus station. Finally, a motorcycle rider arrived and told me that he was only picking up one person. He offered to carry my bag so that it wouldn't be heavy. We rode comfortably, taking our time and chatting. When we arrived, we waited for the bus to depart. I was wearing a tank top, shorts, and flip-flops because it was extremely hot. The bus departed on time, but this time there was an extra row of seats in the middle. I sat in a regular seat. On the way back, the bus did not stop at the Pioneer food court, but at another, more ordinary-looking place with cleaner restrooms. Since it was already 10 pm, I decided to try the roti and milk tea. It came with peanut sauce and was quite delicious.

The bus journey continued with passengers dozing off until the driver stopped to allow them to shoot rabbits by the roadside. Everyone, including me, eagerly participated in the hunt, while the women gathered in a separate corner to collect flowers. The bus arrived at the Yangon bus station at 5 am. We intended to continue our journey to Kyaiktiyo, also known as the Golden Rock, so we inquired about transportation options with locals. The walk to the bus stop was quite long, as it was located on the opposite side of the station. We secured tickets for the 7 am bus and left our luggage before venturing out for breakfast. We ended up having a simple meal with coffee, which turned out to be expensive (2,400 kyat) and disappointing.

The train departed on time. After enjoying the scenery for a while, I fell asleep again.

Upon reaching Kinpun Camp, we transferred to a vehicle bound for Kyaiktiyo. As soon as we disembarked, we purchased return tickets. We then proceeded to the boarding point for the vehicles, often referred to as "pig trucks." A clear sign displayed prices of 1,500 and 2,500 kyats, with the remaining information in Burmese. We approached a fully occupied vehicle and squeezed in. The conductor inquired, "2,500 OK?" We affirmed, and they conversed in Burmese before instructing us to sit in the middle. They placed our luggage in the rear. All the passengers were Mon, and they playfully teased us (we couldn't understand, so we were confused). We simply smiled back, and the vehicle departed. The atmosphere was lively, and we interacted with a child under two years old seated next to us. At a designated stop, we waited for oncoming vehicles to pass. The passengers joyously took photos and invited us to join them. We readily obliged, smiling and raising our fingers for each camera. The camaraderie grew stronger as we ascended to the summit of Kyaiktiyo. We had anticipated an extensive hike, but to our surprise, we reached the entrance fee collection point after a short walk. We paid $6 and exited to find accommodation. The first inquiry yielded a price of $150, which we deemed exorbitant. We then encountered fellow passengers from the vehicle and inquired about affordable lodging options. They led us to Yoe Yoe Lay guest house, where the owner personally showed us a room. It had a bed, TV, fan, and hot water for 20,000 kyats. We decided to stay, as we primarily needed a place to shower. After paying, we immediately took a shower. Upon exiting, we handed our sarong to a staff member for tying. This time, they did an excellent job, much to our satisfaction. It was then time to visit the Golden Rock. We ascended the path, arriving at the platform atop Kyaiktiyo.

Various perspectives of the Phra That Intharawat temple.

We continued our exploration by venturing down the stairs on both sides. Eventually, we came across a spot where people were paying 1,500 kyat to descend. Let me tell you, the climb up the hill was brutal. I would highly recommend paying 2,500 kyat for the convenience and ease. It almost did me in. Afterwards, we made our way back up and explored the various points around the Kyaiktiyo Pagoda.

As the afternoon sun dipped below the horizon, casting long shadows across the temple grounds, we sat in quiet contemplation, witnessing the unwavering devotion of the Mon people to their revered deity, Jattiyo. From the early hours of the afternoon until the evening twilight, the air vibrated with the fervent chanting and meditative stillness of the Mon devotees. Their unwavering faith and profound reverence were palpable, creating an atmosphere of profound serenity and spiritual connection.

We sat and watched the people, and helped take pictures for those who wanted them. Just seeing the smiles of people who were happy with their pictures, or not so happy, made us smile too. But the most satisfying image, the one that made our hearts swell, was of an elderly couple who asked the Mon guide to take their picture. When they saw the picture, they smiled with such happiness.

After sunset, the Mon people engage in a prayer ritual similar to our evening prayers. They also light candles to illuminate their lives. (This information was obtained from local residents.)

We entered the room to sleep, intending to leave again around midnight. However, we woke up at 3 am and rushed out. As soon as we opened the door, we had to close it immediately and put on a sweater. Thankfully, we had brought one, otherwise we wouldn't have been able to leave. The upper courtyard was very quiet and peaceful. We saw the Mon people sleeping in groups, wrapped in thick blankets. We walked around and took photos again in the absence of people.

At 5 am, a food vendor arrived, and I bought a dish for 200 kyat. It was delicious, but it was oily again.

It's past 6 o'clock, the sun has risen.

Then have a simple and comfortable breakfast.

As I was sipping my coffee, the Mon man who had shared a ride with me the day before approached me and said goodbye, wishing me luck and safety on my trip to Burma. I was happy that he had shown me such kindness.

Returning to the storage room because I changed my mind and will go down this morning. Because the Thai people also followed with a loud voice again in the morning. Before going down, we went to cover the gold leaf on the pagoda again. The area around the pagoda is forbidden for women to enter. If anyone wants to cover the gold leaf, they can ask a man to stick it on. And inside the area, no photos are allowed.

The descent was similar to the ascent. We chose to board the bus with more passengers to disembark first. This time, two buses departed simultaneously, both fully occupied. The descent was slightly faster than the ascent. Before the trip, we read numerous online reviews that described the road as extremely challenging, even more so than the Kyaiktiyo Pagoda road. However, we believe these descriptions were exaggerated. The road was in excellent condition; the larger size of the vehicles likely contributed to the perceived difficulty. The descent was so smooth that we barely needed to hold on, unlike the Kyaiktiyo Pagoda road, where even without holding on, one could fall. Upon arrival at 10:00 AM, we rushed to the bus station and requested to change our tickets from 2:00 PM to 10:00 AM. Fortunately, there were available seats, and our request was granted. On the return trip to Yangon, we arrived around noon, and the bus stopped for lunch, demonstrating genuine concern for the passengers' well-being. After reaching the Yangon bus station, we enjoyed a cup of coffee before venturing out to explore the Shwedagon Pagoda once more.

We found a coffee shop near the bus stop that was bustling with activity. The menu also offered rice and curry, which was highly praised in our guidebook. Tempted by the prospect of a delicious meal, we ordered beef curry and chicken massaman. However, the food was overwhelmingly spicy, making it almost inedible. To add to the awkwardness, the restaurant employed a young child, no older than 12, to serve customers. The child stared at us intently and smiled continuously, leaving us wondering if we had done something wrong. After resting and recovering from the spicy ordeal, we faced another round of haggling with a taxi driver. This time, we agreed on a fare of 5,000 kyat for a one-way trip to Shwedagon Pagoda, a reasonable price considering the distance. Upon reaching our destination, we inquired about the cost of a taxi to the airport. The driver quoted 5,000 kyat, confirming our suspicions that we were not being overcharged.

And then the lights came on, the sun had set.

Looking at the time, it was time to head to the airport. I quickly went back to get my luggage. This time, I took the lift to save time. When I went out to find a taxi, I was quoted 8,000 kyat to the airport. I told the driver that it was only 5,000 kyat on the way here (because I had secretly asked the previous taxi driver). In the end, we agreed on 5,000 kyat. The traffic was bad. We left Shwedagon Pagoda a little after 7 pm. I changed my clothes in the taxi again. This time, I was wearing a tank top, shorts, and flip-flops. I was also carrying a clear plastic bag with my belongings wrapped in newspaper. We arrived at the airport at 8:30 pm. I went straight to check-in. On the way back, I used Nok Air again. The sign above the counter separated the groups into tour groups and economy, with three counters open. The tour group sneaked in with the regular passengers, so I moved to a shorter line. When it was my turn, the staff member who told me to queue called the well-dressed passengers from the crowded tour group to check-in. I was furious. Are you choosing which customers to serve? Or do I look like I'm asking for a free ticket and you don't want to serve me? On top of that, the seat I was assigned was in the middle of the tour group, who were talking loudly without any consideration. I was not impressed with the ground staff at Yangon Airport. I'm going back next month with an AirAsia ticket. I'll test them again under the same conditions to see if they discriminate.

Before leaving Yangon Airport, I also took a picture of the Air Koryo plane at the airport.

The total cost of the trip was 7,590 baht, and I brought back many souvenirs, including Burmese marionettes, sandblasted paintings, sarongs, and thanaka.

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