Welcome to my 10-day journey in Ladakh. This place has been on my bucket list since high school (around 2007) when I saw the pioneering Pixpros photographers flying across the ocean to capture the sunset over Leh for the members of the web board. Ladakh is like a sacred place for landscape photographers who must visit at least once in their lifetime.

First, let's get to know the Ladakh region a little better.

Ladakh, meaning "land of high passes," is a region in the state of Kashmir and Jammu in northern India. It borders Tibet/China to the right and Pakistan to the left. Ladakh is the highest region in the state of Kashmir and Jammu, located in the "Trans-Himalaya," a mountain range parallel to the Great Himalayas. The Kunlun, Karakorum, and Himalayan mountain ranges converge in Ladakh, creating a landscape of towering peaks.

The largest city in the Ladakh region is Leh, which is also home to Leh Airport, the gateway to the Land of High Passes.


::::::::::::::: Warning :::::::::::::::

Ladakh is a remote region, with heavy snowfall during winter that damages roads. Repairs are only possible in spring (April), and the mountainous terrain makes development challenging.

Those planning to visit this area should be prepared for a challenging experience. Here are some precautions to take when visiting this area:

Ladakh Travel Tips

1. Public toilets are a major concern in India, including Ladakh. Outside of hotels and upscale restaurants in cities, most toilets are simply "holes" in the ground. In the best-case scenario, these holes are smooth; in the worst-case scenario, they may contain remnants of previous users. It is highly advisable to avoid using public toilets while traveling in Ladakh. Additionally, it is crucial to be mindful of what you eat, as foodborne illness can be a nightmare when traveling for several hours each day by car.

2. Road conditions: Aside from the highway outside Leh, the roads to Pangong Lake and Nubra Valley are riddled with potholes for hours, ranging from mild bumps to jolts that require bracing oneself against the seat. People prone to motion sickness will suffer greatly, as the roads are constantly bumpy and the distances are long. Additionally, there are roads that climb and have sharp turns. Taking motion sickness medication to sleep can help, but the scenery along the way is a highlight of Ladakh that should not be missed.

3. Sunshine: The sun here is very strong. We went in early May when the temperature was around 15-20 degrees Celsius, but the sun was so strong that it still felt hot. Importantly, there is very little shade in this area. Buildings rarely have awnings, and there are few tall trees due to the predominantly desert landscape. When traveling around this region, regardless of the temperature, long sleeves and a hat are essential. Even sitting in a car with the windows up, it is impossible to escape the sun.

4. Dust: As it is a desert, dust blows into the city all the time. The car we were in did not have air conditioning, but the windows were open to let in the air to cool down. Sometimes, when we were driving behind large trucks, dust would blow into the car. It is advisable to bring a mouth cover or scarf. The accommodation also did not have air conditioning, so we had to sleep with the windows open throughout the trip. However, as the weather was cool during our visit, this was not a major problem.

5. Food: Finding food in Leh town is not difficult as there are many restaurants serving international cuisine, including Thai, Chinese, Western, and Indian. However, when traveling to remote areas such as Pangong Lake, Nubra Valley, and Tso Moriri, lunch options are limited and mostly vegetarian. Choices may include fried rice and Maggi (noodles). Some restaurants may not be very clean, so it is advisable to bring tissues to wipe down cutlery. Drinking water may be served from streams that have melted from glaciers, which is generally safe. However, if you are unsure, ordering bottled water is a safer option. Bringing your own lunch is another safe option. Some restaurants offer takeaway meals, or you can purchase bread and jam. Meat is difficult to find. Most accommodations provide breakfast and dinner, but you may encounter unfamiliar dishes like flatbread and vegetable stir-fries. If you are a picky eater, it is recommended to bring instant noodles. It is also advisable to bring plenty of energy bars in case you run out of energy, as well as electrolyte supplements in case of diarrhea.

Altitude Sickness

6. Altitude Sickness is a common condition experienced by travelers visiting high-altitude regions. It primarily results from rapid changes in elevation. In Ladakh, this typically occurs when flying directly from Delhi or other low-lying cities to Leh Airport. The city's altitude of approximately 3,500 meters exceeds the generally tolerable limit of 2,000-2,500 meters (comparable to Doi Inthanon's peak).

This condition arises due to the body's inability to adapt quickly to the reduced oxygen levels. The most common symptom, experienced by everyone, is increased fatigue. This intensifies with increasing altitude. While normal walking may not be affected, activities like running, climbing stairs, jumping, or any exertion requiring significant lung and heart activity can lead to shortness of breath and dizziness.

However, some individuals may experience a more severe reaction than others. This can include intense headaches, insomnia, and loss of appetite. These symptoms typically subside as the body acclimates, usually within 2-3 days of staying at the higher altitude. If symptoms persist beyond this period, descending to a lower altitude is crucial. Continued ascent despite severe symptoms can be life-threatening.

While it's impossible to predict who will experience altitude sickness, there are preventative measures you can take. On your first day in Leh, prioritize rest and allow your body to acclimatize. Avoid strenuous activity and stay within Leh, as the altitude change can be significant. Consider taking Acetazolamide (Diamox) to prevent altitude sickness, but follow the prescribed dosage carefully. Be aware of potential side effects such as tingling in the fingertips, altered taste perception, increased thirst, and frequent urination. My group opted for a half-day rest upon arrival and planned our initial sightseeing around Leh to aid acclimatization. We also took Diamox as advised by our doctor.

Elevation of Tourist Attractions in Leh

  • Leh, 3,500 m
  • Pangong Lake is located at an altitude of 4,300 meters, while Chang la Pass is at an altitude of 5,300 meters.
  • Nubra Valley 3,000 m but through Khardungla Pass at 5,300 m (but claimed to be 5,600 m)

- Tso Moriri, 4,500 m

Compared to the highest mountain in Thailand, Doi Inthanon, which is only 2,600 meters high.

Travel Itinerary:

Day 0: Bangkok - Bangkok - New Delhi (Arrival at 2:00 AM)

Day 1: Arrival in Leh

Day 2: Exploring Beyond Leh City: Lamayuru Route

Day 3-4: Leh - Pangong Lake - Leh

Day 5-6: Leh - Nubra Valley - Leh

Day 7-8: Leh - Tso Moriri - Leh

Day 9: Exploring Leh

Day 10: Leh - New Delhi - Bangkok

Our group traveled to Ladakh during the second week of July, which is the peak tourist season. Ladakh's tourist season begins in mid-April, as the snow has melted and many roads become accessible. However, even in April, there is a risk of snowstorms and avalanches. The peak season in Ladakh is during the summer months, when the meadows are in full bloom. In the fall, the leaves change color, creating a stunning spectacle.

Budget:

The total cost of this trip is approximately 37,000 baht, including everything. This includes the flight cost of 20,000 baht.

● Flight 20,000 THB ●

We flew from Bangkok to New Delhi on Thai Airways.

New Delhi to Leh, we flew with Go Airline. This flight conveniently landed us at Leh Airport at precisely noon.

The average price for a flight from Bangkok to Leh is around 15,000 baht. However, if you are quick, you can find tickets for as low as 7-8,000 baht. On the other hand, prices can also soar to as high as 30,000 baht. One thing to be aware of is that some Indian low-cost airlines have poor conditions and are often crowded with Indian people carrying goods to sell. It is important to check the airline carefully. In my experience, Go Air was a good option, similar to low-cost airlines in Thailand.

● E-Visa 1,800 THB ●

There are two ways to obtain an Indian tourist visa. The first is the traditional method, which involves submitting an application at the VFS Global India Visa Application Center at PS Tower, 10th floor, Asoke. This requires completing various forms, paying a fee of approximately 5,000 baht, and waiting 3-5 days for the passport to be returned. The second option is to apply for an E-Visa online. This involves filling out an application and attaching required documents through a website. The cost is 51 USD, or approximately 1,800 baht (based on the exchange rate at the time of travel). The visa decision is typically communicated within 72 hours. In my case, I received the notification within a day. An email will be sent with instructions to print the visa document, which must be presented upon arrival in India. This method is more convenient and affordable than applying at the embassy, but it has limitations. The visa can only be applied for 30 days in advance, and it is not valid for entry at all airports (a list is provided, including New Delhi). Additionally, the visa is a single-entry visa valid for 30 days from the date of entry. Another disadvantage is that upon arrival in India, travelers must proceed to the E-Visa lane, where they will need to complete additional paperwork and have their photo taken, which can be time-consuming. Therefore, individuals applying for this type of visa should allow ample time for connecting flights to other destinations.

The instructions on how to request assistance are clearly outlined here. With permission, I would like to share the link: https://goo.gl/Bf3tQz


● Transportation & Attraction 6,000 THB ●

This is the cost of travel, permits, and entrance fees to attractions in the Ladakh region. The main expense is transportation, as most sightseeing here requires taxis from Leh city. Prices for each route are fixed, except for unusual routes or short trips within the city where taxis will negotiate with you. Prices vary depending on the size of the vehicle chosen, with the largest being a Toyota Innova for 5-6 people. I recommend choosing a vehicle with some extra space, as travel in this region is often long and arduous. Sitting cramped is the ultimate torture. Generally, you can contact your accommodation to arrange a taxi for you.

Our driver, Gambo, was arranged by our accommodation. He is a small Tibetan man, but he is incredibly resilient and can survive in any weather conditions with just a single sweater. He is always smiling and seems to be friends with almost everyone, both drivers and locals. He would open the window and greet people along the way, and whenever another car had a problem, he would rush to help. He is an excellent driver, but also a bit reckless. He was our regular driver who took us all over Ladakh.


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Accommodation in Ladakh: Booking vs. Walk-in

This passage discusses the challenges of booking accommodation in Ladakh, India, and suggests a combination of pre-booking and walk-in approaches.

Key Points:

  • Booking.com offers limited options at higher prices compared to walk-in.
  • Contacting guesthouses directly through WhatsApp is recommended.
  • Internet connectivity is unreliable, requiring patience for communication.
  • Walk-in is preferred for Pangong Lake and Tso Moriri due to limited online booking options and high prices.
  • Pre-booking is unnecessary as most guesthouses lack online booking systems or even phone lines.
  • Communication limitations outside Leh make walk-in the primary option for 80% of tourists.
  • Even during peak season and the Dalai Lama's visit, accommodation remained available in Pangong Lake and Tso Moriri.

This is a list of the accommodations I stayed in each night.

Leh City: Ladakh Villa

(Call: +91-94192-18599, GPS: 34.164002, 77.581397)

We contacted the owner, Namgyal, of Ladakh Villa in advance to reserve rooms. The price was 2,300 Rs per night for two people, with an option to add an extra bed. The accommodation was new and the bathrooms were clean, but the Wi-Fi was unreliable (this is a common issue throughout the city). The staff provided complimentary tea and coffee throughout the day and were always friendly and helpful. Namgyal, in particular, checked in on us regularly, offered advice on routes, helped us find a rental car, gave us generous discounts, and even gifted us a shirt before we left. For other accommodations, we opted for walk-in options, except for Nubra Valley, which was booked online by a team member. Accommodation prices in Leh were generally consistent, averaging around 3,500 Rs per night for two people. We stayed at Ladakh Villa for all our nights in Leh.


Pangong Lake: Ladakh Camps and Retreats - Camp Watermark

Camp Watermark, located at link to location, is a beautiful campsite on the shores of Pangong Lake. I visited the camp without a reservation and was pleasantly surprised by the stunning scenery and comfortable accommodations. While the website's photos may be slightly more flattering than reality, the camp offers a peaceful and scenic retreat.

The camp's location, just before the town of Spangmik, provides easy access to the lake and a sense of privacy. The spacious grounds offer ample opportunities for walks and photography. I negotiated a price of 3,500 rupees per tent, which included breakfast and dinner.

The tents, while appearing like traditional camping tents from the outside, are surprisingly well-equipped. Each tent boasts a large, comfortable bed, a private bathroom, and electricity from 9 pm to 5 am. Hot water is available in the mornings upon request. Although Wi-Fi is unavailable, the camp offers a serene escape from the digital world.

Dinner consists of a vegetarian Indian buffet, which may be challenging for some palates. Breakfast includes omelets and toast.

Overall, Camp Watermark provides a comfortable and scenic camping experience on the shores of Pangong Lake. The location, amenities, and price make it a compelling option for travelers seeking a peaceful retreat amidst stunning natural beauty.

Accommodation by the Pangong Lake is divided into 3 areas. The first area is the most popular and tends to be crowded. It's the location where the movie "3 Idiots" was filmed, and there are yaks available for photos as well as numerous restaurants. The second area is situated between the first area and the town of Spangmik and has nothing particularly noteworthy. The final area, where we stayed, is the town of Spangmik itself. This area is more spacious and peaceful than the first two.


Nubra Valley: Nubra Ecolodge

The Nubra Ecolodge (http://www.nubraecolodge.com/, https://goo.gl/maps/bJJbsBBh5JS2) was booked through Agoda due to its stunning visuals. The room rate was 4,500 Rs, including breakfast and an optional 560 Rs dinner. The room was excellent, with a beautiful view and a vegetable garden. Behind the hotel, a short walk leads to a scenic riverbank with small sand dunes further away. Wi-Fi was available but unreliable during our stay. Hot water was intermittent, and electricity was only available after dark and switched off at dawn. The delicious vegetarian Indian dinner was served in a set menu format. Breakfast consisted of eggs, bread, naan, homemade bread, and fresh apricots.

One drawback is the lodge's isolation outside Sumur, limiting evening outings. Additionally, it is located on the opposite side of the river from Diskit and Hundar, where most tourist attractions are concentrated. Travel time to these areas is approximately one hour. However, the breathtaking views compensate for the inconvenience.


Tso Moriri: Hotel Lake View

Location: https://goo.gl/maps/zaifYSssr142

This guesthouse offers walk-in accommodation at Tso Moriri. It's considered the best option in the area, and I secured a room for 3,500 rupees, including breakfast and dinner. The food is typical of hotels outside major cities, so if you've reached this point, you're probably already accustomed to it. Electricity is available from 7pm to 11pm, and hot water from 6:30am to 7:30am, both morning and evening. Dinner and breakfast are similar to other guesthouses. Wi-Fi is not available, and rooms on the first floor can have a strong goat odor if the windows are open. However, the view is spectacular, offering a panorama of the lakeside and the Milky Way from your room. In the evenings, hundreds of Pashmina goats walk past the guesthouse.


● Food & Drink 3,600 THB ●

Food in Leh is readily available, with most restaurants offering moderate prices. Outside the city, meals are typically included in the accommodation cost. Lunch is the only meal that requires independent purchase, with limited options available at very low prices (reflecting the quality). Our group brought bread and Nutella as a backup in case we couldn't find anything suitable. Additionally, we carried some pre-packaged food from Thailand, such as instant noodles, dried pork, and Rosa instant noodles, which we mainly consumed for dinner alongside the vegetarian meals provided.

Restaurants near Ladakh Villa in Leh:

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ร้านอาหารใน Leh ที่ผมได้แวะเวียนไปนะครับ ซึ่งจะอยู่แถวๆที่พัก Ladakh Villa :

Restaurants in Leh that I visited, which are located near Ladakh Villa:

- Gesmo Cafe: Located on the main road, this cafe offers delicious local and Western cuisine. It's the only place in Leh that serves ice (as far as I know). Prices are moderate, and the Wi-Fi is strong when the cafe isn't crowded. In the evenings, it gets very busy.

  • Lamayuru Restaurant: Located next to Gesmo Cafe, this restaurant is less crowded and offers average food that is neither particularly delicious nor bad. The Wi-Fi is slow. It's a good option when Gesmo Cafe is full. I once ordered a chicken burger takeaway from this restaurant.

- Happy World Restaurant: Located in a back alley behind the first two restaurants, this eatery specializes in Indian cuisine. The food is delicious, and the Wi-Fi is moderately strong when not crowded. However, the restaurant is smaller and older than the first two.

The Tibetan Kitchen: A Culinary Gem

The Tibetan Kitchen offers an exceptional dining experience, boasting exquisite cuisine and an upscale ambiance. While the restaurant's prices may be slightly higher than other establishments, the quality of the food and the luxurious atmosphere justify the cost.

Nestled within a secluded alleyway, The Tibetan Kitchen presents a hidden gem for discerning palates. Despite the lack of Wi-Fi, the restaurant's charm lies in its intimate setting and refined elegance.

For a truly memorable meal, indulge in the restaurant's signature Tandori Chicken, a succulent dish that tantalizes the taste buds. For those seeking a bolder culinary adventure, the Mutton dishes offer a safe and flavorful exploration of this unique protein.

The Tibetan Kitchen is an ideal destination for those seeking a refined dining experience with exceptional cuisine. Its hidden location adds to its allure, making it a perfect spot for a special occasion or a romantic evening.



Arrival Day

We will depart from Suvarnabhumi Airport on Thai Airways at 23:15. This is a direct flight to Indira Gandhi International Airport (DEL) in New Delhi, arriving at 02:15 the next day. We will then continue our journey to Leh on Go Air at 08:40. The estimated time for immigration, terminal transfer, and check-in is 3 hours (maximum). Please remember to check in for the flight to Leh at least 2 hours in advance. Therefore, we should be at the check-in counter by 6:00 AM.

Upon arrival at Indira Gandhi Airport, the first step is to convert your E-Visa into a physical visa. A separate lane is available for this process at immigration. Please note that a photograph will be taken at this point, so it is advisable to apply makeup and fill in your eyebrows while still on the plane. This process typically takes longer than regular immigration clearance due to the additional steps involved. During my experience, the wait was approximately 30 minutes with a moderate number of travelers. However, during peak hours, the wait time may be longer.

After passing through immigration, head to the baggage claim area. The wait here shouldn't be long, as your luggage will have already arrived while you were processing your visa. You are currently in Terminal 3, which handles international flights and some domestic routes. If you are flying with Go Air, you will need to go to Terminal 1, which is dedicated to domestic flights and serves several low-cost airlines. Terminal 1 is smaller than Terminal 3. If you have a long layover, it is recommended to rest at Terminal 3 before moving. If you choose to move immediately, check in as soon as possible, as the area outside is quite small. Inside, you will find restaurants, reclining chairs, and power outlets, but these are limited and may require some competition.

To transfer between terminals, you will need to take the airport shuttle bus. Exit the terminal and look for the ticket booth, which will be clearly marked. Present your boarding pass and passport to the staff, and they will issue you a ticket. Allow approximately 30 minutes for the shuttle bus ride, as the terminals are quite far apart and traffic conditions may vary.

The atmosphere inside Terminal 1 is like this. As you can see, it's much more crowded outside.

Day 1: Rest Day

We flew from New Delhi and landed at Leh Airport around 10:00 am. The airport is a military zone, and soldiers carrying guns can be seen everywhere. Photography is prohibited in this area, and there are warning signs everywhere. However, it is unclear how strictly this is enforced. The Arrival Terminal is very small, about the size of a provincial airport in Thailand. There is only one short conveyor belt, and it might be faster to just throw your bags on the pile. There are no major checkpoints, but they will give you an Arrival Card to fill out and then you can leave.

Upon exiting the airport, you will encounter a multitude of taxis parked nearby. However, it is essential to proceed to the designated queue and communicate with the dispatcher through the window. Present the hotel address provided by the owner via WhatsApp, as simply stating the name "Ladah Villa" may not be sufficient for the dispatcher to locate it. Subsequently, a taxi will be dispatched to transport you to your accommodation.

The queue for the car will be in front of the window next to the blue coffee shop.


Upon arriving at our accommodation, we discussed with Namgyal, the owner, the arrangements for transportation, including hiring a car and driver, obtaining permits for travel outside Leh, and planning the various routes we would take throughout our trip. He recommended that we explore the Leh area on the second day and gradually increase our altitude.

On the first day, we tried to avoid strenuous activities to allow our bodies to adjust to the changing air pressure. We spent the afternoon napping and the evening exploring the Main Bazaar, located near our accommodation. The area is a prime shopping destination, offering everything from handmade souvenirs to luxurious Kashmiri fabrics. It also boasts a variety of restaurants, cafes, and accommodations, including an unofficial Samsung store. During our visit, the Dalai Lama happened to be visiting his birthplace in Diskit, which attracted a large number of Indian tourists, making the Main Bazaar particularly lively.

The walking path from the accommodation circles around the Main Bazaar.


A popular souvenir here is the T-shirt, priced at 200-300 baht per piece. You can order custom screen printing, but the fabric quality varies from shop to shop, so choose carefully.

Day 2: Lamayuru Route

This morning, we visited the Leh Palace before sunrise. We hailed a taxi from the street in front of our accommodation and negotiated a round-trip fare of 500 rupees. Taxi fares in Leh are not fixed and depend on the time, destination, and duration of the trip.

The Palace is not open to the public in the morning. The entrance does not have a specific opening time, but it states that it opens and closes with the light.

We captured the cityscape of Leh from the front of the Palace and then returned to the city for breakfast before starting our trip to the outskirts of the city around 9 am.


Today's itinerary includes three main attractions: Likir Monastery, Alchi Monastery, and Lamayuru Monastery, listed in order of distance from Leh city. However, we chose to travel to Lamayuru Monastery, the farthest one, first and then visit the others on our way back. This way, if we don't have enough time in one day, we can skip the closer ones and come back to see them another day. Along the way, we will pass Magnetic Hill and the confluence of the Indus and Zanskar rivers, where the two rivers meet.


The confluence of the Indus and Zanskar rivers is truly a sight to behold. The water is normally a beautiful turquoise blue, but when I visited, it was in flood and the color was as seen in the picture.


Lamayuru Monastery

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This area is nicknamed "Moon Land" due to its cratered landscape, resembling the surface of the moon. After passing through Moon Land, we will encounter one of the oldest monasteries in Ladakh.

Both Moon Land and the Monastery have many climbing points and stairs. If you come on the first day, try to do things slowly, otherwise you may easily faint. There is almost no shade in this area, so be sure to bring a hat and sunscreen. And avoid walking around noon.


● Alchi Monastery ●

The Alchi Monastery is an ancient site, not particularly large but revered by the local population. Before reaching the monastery, one must pass through a sprawling market filled with vendors selling all manner of souvenirs, from prayer flags and prayer wheels to, curiously, Turkish evil eyes.

The Main Hall of Alchi Monastery

The Main Hall of Alchi Monastery is surprisingly small, roughly the size of a typical room. This ancient structure houses a collection of deities, though photography is strictly prohibited, as indicated by posted signs. Despite the lack of photographic evidence, it's worth noting that the monastery offers stunning views of the nearby river, accessible via a scenic pathway.


● Likir Monastery ●

Likir Monastery, perched atop a small hill, houses a colossal 23-meter statue of Maitreya, the future Buddha.

This monastery is my favorite place today. Although the monastery itself is not as prominent as others in Ladakh, the view from the rooftop is truly magnificent.


In addition to the three monasteries, another highlight of tourism in Ladakh is the scenery along the way, which changes constantly throughout the journey. The texture of the mountains shifts with the direction of light and shadow, creating a unique and ever-changing landscape.

Day 3-4: Pangong Lake

Today, we will embark on a route outside of Leh District, namely the Pangong Lake Route. This route will pass by three major monasteries: Shey, Thiksey, and Hermis Monastery. However, we will save these three for later days to avoid arriving at Pangong Lake too late in the evening. We will spend one night at Pangong Lake before returning to Leh the next day. This will allow us to take our time, stop for photos along the way, as this route is a long drive with challenging road conditions. Additionally, I would like to experience sleeping by the lakeside and enjoying the morning atmosphere of Pangong Lake.

The initial section of the road is well-paved asphalt until the Permit checkpoint (which our accommodation arranged for us upon arrival). At this junction, one route leads to Pangong Lake, while the other leads to Tso Moriri. However, the road beyond this point becomes progressively rougher, transitioning to a dirt and gravel track that steadily ascends. As you approach Chang-La Pass, the road deteriorates further, becoming a path of loose rocks with flowing water, large potholes, and a steep incline that hugs the cliff face.


● Chang-La Pass ●

Chang-La Pass is a rest stop located at an altitude of approximately 5,300 meters above sea level. The surrounding mountains are still covered in snow. The air is very thin at this altitude, and even climbing ten steps to the tea shop can leave you breathless. Those who are not acclimated to the altitude may experience earaches and dizziness. It is advisable not to stay too long and to avoid strenuous activity. This stop is not essential, as the view is not particularly impressive. The snow present during my visit was old and not freshly fallen. Additionally, the shops have limited stock, and the few restaurants are crowded due to the influx of Big Bike riders who stop here to rest. The bathroom facilities are best avoided.

Descending from Chang-La Pass, you will encounter verdant landscapes dotted with herds of yaks grazing peacefully. Occasionally, you may also spot groups of Pashmina goats, whose soft and warm fleece is used to weave luxurious cashmere fabric. The atmosphere at this point is truly breathtaking.


As you approach the lake, the terrain transitions into a desert landscape. You will pass a large military camp where you can stop for a meal, but the only vegetarian options available are fried rice and noodles. Food options are scarce along this route, so it is advisable to bring your own provisions. Alternatively, you can queue for noodles at Chang-La Pass.


The final point before reaching the lake is a long sandbar, presumably formed by the lake's water.


● Pangong Lake ●

The lakeshore offers scenic drives all the way to Spangmik town. The first stop provides the most activities, including renting local attire, yak rides for photos, and a small peninsula jutting into the lake, popular for photography. Other stops mainly offer scenic views.

The landscape near our accommodation before reaching Spangmik town is different from the first point. It is mostly a rocky plain with no beach, but it is still beautiful in its own way. Most importantly, it is very quiet, like a private lake for us alone.


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● Peace Pagoda ●

The next day, we embarked on a long drive back. Unfortunately, we encountered a broken-down vehicle blocking the road, resulting in a kilometer-long traffic jam. We waited for over an hour for the car to be repaired, causing us to arrive in Leh later than planned. However, we still managed to catch the sunset at Shanti Stupa, a white pagoda situated on a mountain. This location is not far from Leh and is not very large, making it an ideal spot for an evening visit after exploring the outskirts of the city.

Day 5-6: Nubra Valley

The route to Nubra Valley traverses diverse landscapes, including high mountains, plains, rivers, and deserts. Unlike the rough gravel road leading to Pangong Lake, the Nubra Valley route features a mix of paved and unpaved sections, offering a smoother ride with occasional rough patches. The route passes through several villages with restaurants, although I brought my own food and cannot comment on their quality.

The initial leg of our journey today was filled with excitement as we rolled down the windows to capture the breathtaking views along the way. The road from Leh to Nubra Valley is a paved stretch that leads to the ascent towards Khadung La Pass. This winding route snakes its way up the mountains, offering stunning panoramic vistas of Leh from above.


The Khadung La Pass is the most challenging section of the entire route due to its rough, rocky, and potholed road that winds its way up to the summit. The high altitude of the pass often results in poor visibility, with clouds and fog obscuring the surroundings. Melting snow flows down the mountainsides, creating streams and patches of thin ice on the road. Some sections are so narrow that vehicles cannot pass each other, and our driver generously yielded to local traffic, sometimes bringing our vehicle within a mere boot's length of the precipice.

On our way back, we passed the same road again. We encountered a group of Indians driving their own car, and they lost control and one wheel slipped off the edge of the cliff. It was very scary, but the people here were very kind. The rental car drivers all ran a hundred meters to help push the car up almost immediately. (Our driver was also very fast.) I don't recommend driving up this road, as it requires a high level of expertise.

Another frightening aspect of this trail is the risk of rockfall. It is impossible to predict when a rockfall might occur. On our return journey, a rockfall blocked the path approximately 30 minutes before our arrival. Consequently, we were stranded on the mountain for over an hour, waiting for an excavator and a rock-drilling vehicle to clear the path. Fortunately, no one was injured.


● Khadung La Pass ●

The Khadung La Pass is the highest point on this route and claims to be the highest motorable road in the world, reaching 5,600 meters. However, online sources indicate that it is actually the same height as the Chang La Pass at 5,300 meters. This discrepancy suggests that the higher elevation may be a marketing tactic to attract tourists.

The conditions are similar to those at Chang La Pass on the Pangong Lake route. This is a rest stop located right at the top of the mountain. If you pass this point, it means you have passed the most desolate part of this route. The air is thin up here, so be careful what you do. It's easy to get lightheaded. The area here is quite narrow, with a small, isolated shop. The bathroom follows the same concept: if you're not shy, it's better to go outdoors. There is a path to walk up to the top for a view, but it's high up. I didn't dare to risk going up. The weather is very cold, with hail falling intermittently. I recommend not staying at this point for long. In addition to the very low pressure, you can easily catch a cold.

This section highlights a sign indicating the elevation. There is one sign and one kilometer marker. When I visited, many tourists were crowding around it, so I didn't bother to get close and took a picture from afar (which unexpectedly led to me making two new friends).


As we descended from Khadung La Pass, the temperature gradually increased. We began to traverse a landscape of verdant meadows, arguably the most scenic section of the entire trail. This area is remarkably fertile compared to others, likely due to the presence of a river flowing parallel to the path. During mid to late spring, the trail is adorned with vibrant wildflowers. Even though the flowers were not yet in full bloom during our visit, their beauty was already evident. The majority of the flowers were small and grew close to the ground, creating the impression of a green carpet interspersed with splashes of yellow and purple.


Along the journey, we encountered a diverse range of fauna, including yaks, marmots, pashmina goats, and various livestock. Notably, we had the fortunate encounter of observing a large bearded vulture, locally known as Lammergeier, perched by the roadside. This impressive bird, a resident of high mountain ranges, circled our vehicle for an extended period.


As we approached Nubra Valley, the landscape transitioned into a desert. We drove alongside a large river, which appeared a beautiful blue in the picture. However, during our visit, heavy rainfall over several days in Nubra Valley had transformed the river into a muddy brown, resembling a torrent. Consequently, we were not particularly impressed by the scenery during this period. Nevertheless, we have heard that this is arguably the most scenic location in Ladakh. We plan to return for another visit in the future (although we will take a break to recover from the fatigue of the long car journey).


Due to our frequent photo stops along the way, we arrived at Diskit in the late afternoon. Additionally, the Dalai Lama's current residence at Diskit Monastery resulted in heavy traffic congestion in the area. As a result, we decided to explore the surrounding areas tomorrow and proceed directly to the Sand Dune in Hundar, located beyond Diskit, before heading to our accommodation.

Hundar Sand Dunes

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As our accommodation was located on the opposite side of the river from Diskit and Hundar, we had to set off early. We also needed to allow time to explore the area around our accommodation to see if there were any restaurants, or if we would need to eat in the next town, Sumur. This is because, according to Google Maps, our accommodation (Nubra Eco Lodge) was located in a remote area outside the town.

Upon arrival at the accommodation, we were pleasantly surprised to find both dinner and breakfast provided. This unexpected bonus allowed us to spend our allotted time exploring the surrounding area. The path behind the accommodation led us to the riverbank, offering breathtaking views comparable to those found in Hundar. The scenic beauty of this location made it an ideal spot for a leisurely stroll.

I would like to share some photos I took around the accommodation in the evening and morning. I walked about 2 kilometers and really enjoyed it.


Diskit Monastery

We visited this monastery in the morning before returning to Leh city. It is the oldest monastery in the region and served as the residence of the Dalai Lama during his visits to Leh. The top of the monastery houses a large statue of Maitreya Buddha.

Day 7-8: Tso Moriri

This route is the longest and most time-consuming on our trip. However, it offers the advantage of a mostly flat terrain, eliminating the winding cliffs and steep climbs encountered on other routes. The road surface alternates between paved and rough sections, but it is not as rugged as other routes. The main drawback of this route is the extreme heat. Due to the flat terrain, the air is not as cool, and the lack of trees in the area means we are exposed to the sun for the entire journey. The vehicles lack air conditioning, and the wind that blows in is hot. During midday, the sun is particularly intense, and passengers sitting by the windows need to cover themselves with cloth to avoid sunburn.

The initial section of the route follows the same paved road leading to Pangong Lake, before diverging at a permit checkpoint. This segment transitions to a dirt track, alternating between smooth and rough patches. The path runs alongside a river, occasionally encountering minor potholes and moderate curves. The surrounding landscape primarily consists of rocky cliffs, offering limited scenic views. During our visit, the river was in spate, flowing rapidly with a brown hue. Under normal conditions, the water is expected to be a beautiful blue color.

The landscape is dotted with strange sights, such as purple cliffs and military camps. There are also lakes where you can stop and enjoy the view.

The second section of the trail will be marked by greenery as we enter the Tso Moriri Wetland Conservation Reserve. Here, we will encounter marmots once again. However, the marmots in this area appear cleaner, with slender bodies and beautiful fur, unlike those in Nubra Valley, which tend to be fatter and have patchy fur.

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Tso Kar

Tso Kar is a small lake located between Tso Moriri and Korzok. While not a major tourist destination, the scenery around the lake is equally beautiful. You will also start to see scattered tents of Nomads (nomadic tribes) along the way.



The Changthang Plateau, where Tso Moriri is located, extends to the Tibetan border. Nomadic tribes, such as the Changpa, inhabit this region, migrating across the plateau with their herds of Pashmina goats and yaks, accompanied by herding dogs. They sell the yak and Pashmina wool in villages along their route to purchase necessities. In Karzok, a town bordering the lake, there is a school for children from these nomadic communities.

Throughout our journey, we encountered Nomadic tents at intervals, often accompanied by the scent of goats carried by the wind. We were told that the herding dogs would not harm humans unless we touched the animals they were guarding. Although they are called dogs, their size is comparable to that of wolves.


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Tso Moriri, meaning "Mountain Lake," is a high-altitude lake nestled amidst towering mountains at an elevation of approximately 4,500 meters above sea level. It is renowned as the largest high-altitude lake in the Trans-Himalayan region. The lake is formed by the melting of glaciers from the surrounding mountains, with no outlet to major rivers or the sea. Consequently, the lake's water has exceptionally low mineral content, making it devoid of algae and aquatic plants, resulting in crystal-clear water suitable for drinking. Additionally, the presence of oxygen beneath the lake's surface supports a thriving fish population.

The heart of Tso Moriri lies near the town of Karzok, a small lakeside settlement offering basic accommodation and dining options. A short drive into the lake leads to the lakeshore, where visitors can enjoy scenic walks. Beyond the town, a hill offers panoramic views of the town and the surrounding landscape. The road continues to the edge of the lake, providing breathtaking vistas.

I personally prefer this place to Pangong Lake. The main reason is the stunning mountain patterns that serve as a backdrop to the lake. When the water is still, it creates an unusual reflection. In the distance, you can see snow-capped mountains overlapping each other. The atmosphere on the lakeshore is also very lively. In the mornings, you can see herding dogs running around, and in the evenings, herds of animals pass through the town. In the lake, there are water birds flying around. In some places, there are meadows, in others, there are flowers, and in others, there are mice peeking out of their holes to watch us take pictures. Each corner of the lake offers a different view.

The article will be image-heavy, as I have collected many photos from this location.

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Day 9: Exploring the Environs of Leh

The journey from Tso Moriri to Leh was completed in the afternoon, allowing for a visit to a monastery before entering the city. The following day was spent exploring Leh and resting.

In the evening, we visited Thiksey Monastery, Shey Monastery, and Leh Monastery (to watch the sunset).


● Thiksey Monastery ●

The Thikse Monastery, the largest monastery in Ladakh, was built based on the Potala Palace in Tibet. (Most monasteries in Ladakh are built based on this palace.) It served as a center for the propagation of Buddhism.

The interior is divided into several smaller halls, including the main prayer hall, the living quarters of the Dalai Lama, and a rooftop with panoramic views. The main prayer hall houses a statue of Maitreya Buddha, which is as tall as a two-story building.


● Shey Monastery ●

Shey Monastery: From Royal Palace to Sacred Site

The Shey Monastery, also known as the Shey Palace, once served as the summer residence of the former King of Ladakh. Following the relocation of the capital, the palace was abandoned and fell into disrepair. Today, the palace section is closed to the public and serves as a historical landmark. The accessible portion of the complex houses the Shey Monastery.

This section requires an uphill hike. For those arriving on the first day, please be cautious, as the thin air can easily cause dizziness if your body is not yet acclimated. Additionally, the sun is very strong.


● Leh Monastery ●

The Leh Monastery is situated on a hilltop adjacent to the Leh Palace. While physically fit individuals can hike up from the Leh Palace, I opted for a car ride due to concerns about altitude sickness. It's important to note that the car entrance is located on the opposite side of the Leh Palace. Visitors planning to visit both locations should allocate sufficient travel time.

This structure resembles a tower with multiple levels for visitors to ascend. The highest level is akin to an observation deck, featuring a wooden balcony that offers 360-degree panoramic views. However, the walkway is narrow and low, with wooden slats arranged in small square gaps, making photography challenging. It is recommended to observe the sunset from the front balcony for a more optimal experience.


The next morning, we returned to the same spot to capture the sunrise. We found ourselves circling around Leh Palace & Monastery almost every day.

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Spituk Monastery

Spituk Monastery, an extension of Thiksey Monastery, serves as a center for Buddhist propagation. It has hosted the Dalai Lama, whose chamber and chair are on display. Notably, the monks here continuously chant prayers, whether sitting, walking, sweeping floors, or locking doors.

The Monastery offers a clear view of Leh Airport, where you can frequently observe airplanes landing.


Phayang Monastery

Phayang Monastery is a small monastery located outside of Spituk Monastery. It has limited rooms open to the public, and one room in particular is dark and eerie, containing taxidermied animal remains. Photography is prohibited in this room. Some areas of the monastery's exterior are currently undergoing renovations.


And finally, we arrived at the last destination of this trip. Actually, we came here first, but didn't go inside. We passed by many times but didn't go in until the last day. That place is...


● Leh Palace ●

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**● Leh Palace ●**

The ancient Leh Palace, built in the 16th century, is a nine-story structure inspired by the Potala Palace in Tibet. Visitors can explore all nine floors, each featuring unique exhibitions. The palace also boasts balconies and a rooftop offering panoramic views. Remember to present your Thai passport before purchasing your ticket to receive a discount.

Warning: It is not advisable to use the restroom here. As soon as you open the door, everyone on the floor will stare at you. The smell is very strong.



In conclusion,.......

Thank you to everyone who has been following my reviews. I hope that my review will be helpful to those who are planning to travel to Ladakh.


Ladakh is a destination that is easily accessible but requires a high level of endurance. This is due to the thin air, challenging roads, and limited sanitation facilities. However, the rewards are well worth the effort, as Ladakh offers stunning natural beauty and pristine landscapes.


While I may have been a bit fussy while I was there, I will miss it once I return. I especially enjoyed Tso Moriri.


I firmly believe that I will return to this region one day.


Have a pleasant journey.


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