transportation: boat

In September 2019, shortly after graduating from my master's program in England, I decided to embark on an extended backpacking trip across Europe before starting my new job.

The low cost of flights and living expenses in the Baltic region, combined with its convenient transportation network and reputation for safety, made it an ideal destination for a backpacking trip. This trip also presented an opportunity to explore nearby Nordic countries like Finland and Sweden.

Due to the length of the trip, it will be divided into three parts:

Part 1: Overview and Days 1-4 in Lithuania 🇱🇹

Part 2: Days 5-9: Latvia 🇱🇻 and Estonia 🇪🇪

This section is quite long. If you are here to plan your trip, you can skip to the next section.

The Baltic Peninsula, located in Eastern Europe, is bordered by the Baltic Sea to the left and Russia to the right. Across the Baltic Sea lie Sweden and Finland, making it easy to take a ferry and visit both countries.

(Source: Baltic Nations)

The inhabitants of this region are the Balts, a group of related ethnicities. They have resided in this area for centuries, with a rich history marked by occupations and revolutions. This has instilled in them a strong sense of national identity and a deep appreciation for their hard-won freedom. Perhaps due to their long history of oppression, younger generations particularly cherish the simple joys of life.

Detailed histories of each country can be found online. Alternatively, you can follow in my footsteps and experience them firsthand by visiting the countries themselves.

The Baltic states have been occupied numerous times over a period of nearly seven centuries, particularly Estonia and Latvia. Occupying forces have included neighboring Lithuania, Sweden, Russia, Germany, and the Soviet Union.

The Baltic states gained independence in 1991, but it was not until 1998 that they were truly free from Russian military and political influence. This means that the Baltic people have only had their own countries back for 20 years. Let's take a look at what the state of these countries is like now, after their development was frozen for over 50 years.

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Baltic & Nordic Trip Plan

Baltic States Itinerary: A 13-Day Adventure

This itinerary proposes a linear journey through the Baltic states, allowing you to choose your starting point (north or south) and adjust the duration of your stay in each country based on your available time. You can also add neighboring countries like Poland, Belarus, Finland, and Sweden to your itinerary.

Day 1: Arrive in Vilnius, Lithuania, and explore the charming Old Town.

Day 2: Discover Trakai Castle and the bohemian district of Užupis in Vilnius.

Day 3: Head to Klaipėda, a port city on the Baltic Sea.

Day 4: Visit Šiauliai, known for its Hill of Crosses.

Day 5: Arrive in Riga, Latvia, and explore its historic Old Town.

Day 6: Relax in Ķemeri National Park, known for its mineral springs.

Day 7: Travel from Riga to Tallinn, Estonia.

Day 8: Immerse yourself in the medieval atmosphere of Tallinn's Old Town.

Day 9: Explore the natural beauty of Lahemaa National Park.

Day 10: Cross the Gulf of Finland and arrive in Helsinki, Finland.

Day 11: Discover the historic center of Stockholm, Sweden.

Day 12: Visit the Vasa Museum and Skansen, an open-air museum.

Day 13: Depart from Stockholm and return to the UK.

Visa

This region allows entry with a Schengen visa. I haven't personally applied for a visa from a Baltic embassy in Thailand as I already have a French Schengen visa. However, I believe the application process wouldn't be much different from applying for a visa to France or Germany.

Currency

The Baltic states use the euro, and contactless credit cards are widely accepted, so there is no need to exchange a lot of cash. During my trip, I used a KTB Travel Card to exchange money periodically and only carried 50 euros in my wallet. However, when crossing into Sweden, the Swedish krona is required. You can exchange euros before entering the country, but cash is rarely used in Sweden. In fact, it can be difficult to use cash. For example, ticket machines for various forms of transportation accept credit cards. While in Stockholm, I used my Thai credit card for everything to avoid exchanging currency.

Food

The limited resources in the Baltic states have resulted in a lack of food diversity. The region's staple food is the hardy potato, which is present in almost every dish, from fried and boiled to steamed and mashed. Even soups contain potatoes. Meat consumption in the region is primarily focused on fish, particularly herring, which is eaten both raw and fried. While I initially enjoyed this dish, it has become tiresome after repeated consumption. Another delicious and likely popular dish is fried pig ears.

Top: Baked potato stuffed with meat (Cepelinai) served with cold beetroot soup with mashed potatoes (Saltibarsciai)
And unstuffed baked potato
Bottom left: Potato pancakes (Kartupeļu pankūkas) with pickled herring
Bottom right: Fried herring with potatoes

Weather

The Baltic States: A Seasonal Guide

The Baltic states experience three distinct seasons:

Summer (June-August): This is the high season, with warm temperatures and clear skies. Tallinn typically sees temperatures between 12-25°C, while Vilnius can reach up to 30°C. However, due to the region's coastal location, the weather can change rapidly. Sudden cold spells are possible, with temperatures dropping from 25°C to 12°C overnight. Additionally, the days are long during this period, stretching from 4 am to 10 pm, offering ample time for sightseeing and enjoying various festivals. However, catching sunrise and sunset might require some effort.

The winter here is quite cold, with temperatures ranging from -8 to 0 degrees Celsius. However, it is not as cold as Scandinavia, making this region an alternative destination for those who want to enjoy winter activities such as skiing, dog sledding, and driving on the longest road in Europe (on the frozen sea at Tallinn). Christmas markets are also starting to appear in the area. Importantly, prices are much lower than in Scandinavia. Even ferries operate during the winter, allowing you to "play while breaking the ice."

Accommodation

Accommodation options in this area are diverse, ranging from luxury hotels to budget-friendly hostels. However, it is worth noting that Airbnb options are still relatively limited. In the capital cities of Vilnius, Riga, and Tallinn, I primarily stayed in the Old Town districts. This is because most of the attractions are located there, allowing for convenient walking exploration without incurring additional transportation costs. Additionally, train stations and various restaurants are typically situated within the Old Town boundaries.

Accommodation during this trip will primarily be in hostels. As I am traveling solo, staying in a dorm will be the most economical option and help me avoid feeling lonely. Additionally, since this area is popular with European tourists, the dorms are unlikely to be overly noisy. This is because the two main nationalities known for being talkative, Americans and British, are less common among European travelers. However, Europeans are generally open to conversation, though they may not initiate it as frequently and prefer to read books in bed.

Expenses

Now, let's talk about the important stuff: expenses. The Baltic States are known for being one of the most affordable regions in Europe. However, the cost of living increases as you travel further north. Lithuania boasts the lowest cost of living (although still more expensive than Thailand). You can enjoy a meal at a restaurant for less than 300 baht. Meanwhile, in countries like England or France, you'd have to shell out at least 400-500 baht. However, prices in Tallinn are slightly higher, with meals costing around 300-400 baht. To save some money, consider buying groceries from supermarkets and cooking your own meals. You can also take advantage of lunch deals at restaurants, as prices are typically lower than in the evenings. Alternatively, try eating at Pub Restaurants (restaurants with a bar in front that serve simple dishes like burgers and local cuisine), which offer slightly lower prices.

The total budget for my 13-day trip was approximately 36,000 baht (excluding airfare and visa). As I flew from England, the airfare was only around 2,000 baht. However, if you fly round-trip from Bangkok, the cost will range from 15,000 to 30,000 baht, depending on the time of year.

A quick glance reveals that the cost of a 3-day trip to the Nordic countries (Helsinki, Stockholm) is significantly higher compared to a 10-day trip to the Baltic States. The primary reason for this increased expense is the cost of ferry travel. However, if you can find three friends to share a room with, the cost per person can be reduced to around a thousand baht.

If your budget is limited, it is recommended to end your trip in Tallinn or Helsinki if you want to enjoy the scenery by boat. A 10-day trip will cost around 25,000 baht. If you plan to travel in 2020, I have checked the prices and found that round-trip tickets during the same period as my trip will cost around 19,000 baht. Adding the Schengen visa fee of approximately 4,000 baht, the total cost of the trip will be around 50,000 baht for 10 days in the Baltic States and 1 day in Helsinki.

Travel

By Plane

This section only applies to travel within the region. I flew into Vilnius, Lithuania, and flew out of Stockholm, Sweden. Travel between cities in this region does not take long, so there is no need to fly within the country (except when flying from Finland to Sweden instead of taking the ferry).

Buses & Trams

Train

Train Travel in Lithuania and Latvia

Trains are the primary mode of domestic transportation in Lithuania and Latvia. Both countries boast well-developed rail networks, with online booking options and convenient self-service ticketing machines accepting credit cards at most stations. Passengers can also purchase tickets directly on board, although not all trains accept credit card payments.

Be aware that trains on main routes can get crowded, so booking in advance is recommended. Additionally, while online systems and signage are generally available in English, not all counter staff are fluent in the language. Therefore, if you have a specific travel time in mind, booking online beforehand is highly advisable to avoid any inconvenience.

If purchasing tickets at the counter is unavoidable, consider capturing screenshots of your destination city or landmark names to facilitate communication with staff, especially if you are unfamiliar with local pronunciation. For instance, reaching the Hill of Crosses requires showing the phrase "Kryžių kalna," which can be challenging to pronounce for non-native speakers.

Train ticket booking website - Lithuania

Taxi

Taxis can be hailed on the street or booked through apps like Uber or Bolt. While more expensive than buses, they offer a comfortable option, especially when shared among multiple passengers.

Intercity Buses

The bus journey was similar to a VIP coach tour in Thailand. I only used it to cross from Lithuania to Latvia, as I haven't seen any trains that cross borders. There are several bus companies to choose from, and you can buy tickets online in advance, at the station, or on the bus. However, be aware of language barriers and the possibility of the bus being full, as services are not as frequent as trains. The two bus companies I used in Lithuania were Autobus and Ollex.

Ferry

This route requires two ferry trips. The first leg is a 2.5-hour journey from Tallinn, Estonia, to Helsinki, Finland. The second leg is an overnight trip from Helsinki to Stockholm, Sweden. I recommend booking ferry tickets online in advance, as they are similar to airplane tickets in that you need to arrive before the departure time. Ferries typically depart early in the morning, so waking up early to purchase tickets in person may not be convenient.

Three major companies operate on this route: Tallink-Silja Line, Eckerö Line, and Viking Line. According to TripAdvisor, the first two companies are slightly better. However, for short trips, the difference may not be noticeable. If you plan to sleep on the ferry from Helsinki to Stockholm, it is recommended to check the rooms and facilities carefully. Another important point is that each company departs from a different port, and the arrival ports also differ. It is advisable to check the location of the port to avoid going to the wrong one. Also, consider the convenience of transportation from the port to the city. For this trip, I used Viking Line for both legs because the port in Helsinki was convenient for getting to the city center. The port in Stockholm was also close to the Old Town and my accommodation.

Local Tour

The plan shows that I used two tours. The first was a sightseeing tour from Riga, Latvia to Tallinn, Estonia. This tour included stops at several towns along the way, which saved a lot of time. Each town on this route is relatively small and doesn't have much to see. If I had to go to each town individually, it would have taken 2-3 days.

Another option is a tour to Lahemaa National Park. This tour will take you to important sites around the National Park, which are not accessible by public transportation. I chose this tour because I wanted to see the nature in this area and I also enjoy hiking. If you are not interested in nature, you can skip this tour to save time and money.

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Day 1: Vilnius Old Town 🇱🇹

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With preparations complete, it's time to embark on our journey.

From the airport, there are three ways to get to the city: bus, train, and taxi. I chose to take the train because I wanted to see the view along the way. However, the station was actually located outside the airport, about a 300-meter walk away. During that time, there was road construction going on, so it was a bit difficult to walk.

The train station, called Oro Uostas, is more like a train stop with a small waiting area and a digital timetable. The platform is located below and can be accessed by an elevator. As there is no ticket office, tickets must be purchased on board the train using cash or credit card. The fare is 0.7 euros.

However, we will not reach the Old Town district yet. This is the only capital city where both the train and bus stations are located far from the Old Town. We can choose to walk or take a bus. But from where I stayed, even if I take the bus, I still have to walk. So I walked in and took the opportunity to see the view (I only had a 36-liter backpack and a camera bag, so I could walk around. If you bring a lot of stuff, I recommend taking the bus or hiring a taxi).

English:

I stopped by to pick up my belongings first, and the host recommended various places to visit and eat in the area. For those who want to explore the history of this region in depth, every city offers free walking tours where volunteers will guide you through various points of interest, explaining their significance and sharing interesting anecdotes. In the case of Vilnius, the tour starts from the Town Hall Square at 10:00 AM, but I arrived after noon, so I couldn't join. Additionally, I mainly focus on taking photos, so I'm not very comfortable going on tours like this.

Another point is the path up to Three Crosses [6]. As you can see from the map, I took different routes up and down. The path through the green trees is a long detour. The scenery is nice, but it's not worth the walk. The stairs are also steep. I recommend taking the same route up and down, which is the one I took down (the shorter path).

In addition, I actually got lost in many small alleys. The internet was not very good, the map kept jumping around, and the roads were confusing. However, in exchange, I saw many beautiful alleys.

Presidential Palace Viewpoint

Vilnius Cathedral

St. Anne's Church

As mentioned earlier, I intended to visit the Gediminas Castle Tower. However, I took a wrong turn and ended up walking straight to St. Anne's Church. This was actually a detour, as I ultimately had to return to Vilnius Cathedral anyway.

Gediminas' Castle Tower

The final stop of the day is the Three Crosses, a landmark of Vilnius. The three white crosses stand on a hilltop next to the Gediminas Castle Tower.

Day 2: Trakai Castle & Užupis 🇱🇹

This itinerary entry indicates a planned visit to two locations in Lithuania on the second day of a trip: Trakai Castle and Užupis.

• Trakai Castle: A historic castle located in Trakai, Lithuania, known for its picturesque setting on an island in Lake Galvė.
• Užupis: A self-proclaimed "Republic" within the city of Vilnius, Lithuania, known for its bohemian atmosphere, art scene, and unique constitution.

The emoji flag 🇱🇹 indicates that these locations are in Lithuania.

Today, I traveled to another famous landmark in Lithuania, Trakai Castle. This castle/fortress is located in the town of the same name, about 40 minutes from Vilnius.

To reach Trakai Castle, you can take either a train or a bus (which is actually a minibus). However, to reach the castle itself, you will need to walk. The bus station is closer to the castle than the train station, approximately 3 kilometers away.

Upon arrival at Trakai station, I embarked on a walking journey towards the castle. Following the main road, I ventured deeper into the town. If accompanied by companions and disinclined to walk, taxis are readily available in the vicinity. Remember to check the return train schedule to Vilnius.

Within Trakai's city center, there are numerous charming sights to discover during your stroll. The town is adorned with adorable little houses, and you have the option to walk along the lakeshore on either the left or right side of the city, where you will be greeted with breathtaking views on both sides.

After exploring the castle, I walked back to the bus station to catch a ride back to Vilnius. The bus that arrived was a large one, likely depending on the schedule and where it had come from.

Upon exiting the train station, I boarded a connecting bus to the Old Town. The bus stop is conveniently located in front of the train station, and the fare is 1 euro. If you plan on taking multiple bus rides, consider purchasing a ticket booklet from the train station for a discounted rate. The bus dropped me off near Vilnius Cathedral, and I began walking towards St. Ann Church, which I had passed the previous day. I then crossed the bridge to the Užupis district.

Before reaching St. Ann Church, I took a detour to Literatu street (Literatų gatvė). This street features a wall adorned with the works of numerous artists who have dedicated their creations to commemorating the many writers and poets from various eras who have contributed to Lithuanian literature.

This wall is a significant landmark of the city and the country, as it represents the flourishing of art and culture after a long period of occupation.

Near this road, there is another important landmark of the Republic of Užupis, the Constitution of the Republic of Užupis, which translates to the Constitution of the Republic of Užupis in Thai.

This district boasts its own constitution, reflecting the residents' belief that their side of the Vilnia River (Užupis translates to "the other side of the river") constitutes an independent administrative region separate from Lithuania. This declaration is taken seriously, with the district having its own flag, currency, borders, immigration control, and even a president, cabinet, and an 11-person army.

This street displays the public constitution in various languages, unfortunately excluding Thai. The 41 articles of the constitution include examples such as: * Everyone has the right to live by the River Vilnelė, and the River Vilnelė has the right to flow by everyone. * Everyone has the right to love and take care of the cat. * A cat is not obliged to love its owner, but must help in time of need. * A dog has the right to be a dog.

Originally, I had no plans to go anywhere today. However, I happened to see a distant church spire to the south of the Užupis district, so I decided to take a walk and check it out. After all, I had some time to spare.

Continuing from the fort for a bit, I arrived at the church that I could see from afar. It was almost a kilometer walk, and I had to climb a hill to get there. Most importantly, it was an abandoned church!!!

At first glance, this may appear to be an ordinary view. However, upon closer inspection, it becomes evident that nearly all of Vilnius's significant landmarks are depicted in this image. Starting from the Three Crosses on the far right, one can observe St. Anne's Church, Gediminas Castle Tower, the Cathedral of the Theotokos, and Vilnius Cathedral in the distance.

From there, I walked straight back to my accommodation. In the evening, there was a concert at Town Hall Square. It was very lively, with many stalls selling local food, which, as usual, was dominated by potatoes.

Today's destination is Klaipėda, a port city in Lithuania. However, it is also home to the UNESCO World Heritage Site "Curonian Spit (Kuršių nerija)," a 98-kilometer-long sandbar that runs along the Lithuanian coast to the Kaliningrad Oblast in Russia (the southern part below Lithuania). The sandbar is home to the popular resort town of Nida and the Parnidžio kopa desert.

To reach Klaipėda, I opted for a train journey due to the considerable distance involved, essentially traversing the entire country. Fortunately, Lithuanian trains are spacious and comfortable, offering amenities such as restrooms, power outlets, and Wi-Fi.

The ferry schedule can be found here. If you are crossing on foot, use the Old Ferry Terminal, which will arrive before the Old Town. If you are crossing with a car, you must use the New Ferry Terminal.

Buses on the Curonian Spit

For buses running on the Curonian Spit, please refer to this link: https://www.autobusubilietai.lt/index.php?lang=0&cl=select&fnc=searchByStopId&travelfrom=3016-1&travelto=3015-1

The buses depart from the stop in front of the ferry terminal. The frequency of the buses is not consistent, with departures every 2-3 hours. It is important to check the return times as well, as they also depart every 2-3 hours. The journey from Smiltynė to Nida takes approximately one hour.

On the outward journey, there are buses arriving at Nida at 13:00 and 15:00. On the return journey, buses depart from Nida at 14:00, 17:00, and 18:00 (the last bus). If we take the 13:00 bus, we will only have one hour to visit, which is not enough time. If we take the 17:00 bus, we will have to stay there for four hours, which is too long.

If we leave at 3:00 PM, we can return at either 5:00 PM or 6:00 PM, which would be perfect timing. Therefore, I need to plan to visit other places first and then take the bus to Nida at 3:00 PM. If I don't plan ahead and take the 1:00 PM bus, I will be stuck there for 4 hours with nothing to do.

If you have the whole day, you can cross over to Smiltynė from the entrance and visit the towns between Smiltynė and Nida. There are attractions such as Amber Bay, Hill of Witches, and Grey Dunes.

Smiltynė Beach

As I crossed the border in the early afternoon, I headed straight for Smiltynė Beach. To reach the Curonian Spit on the Baltic Sea, I had to walk about 2 kilometers. The path was lined with pine forests, offering a pleasant view.

Nida & Parnidžio kopa

This desert has clearly marked paths, and tourists are not allowed to stray from them until they reach the viewpoint. We can walk along the desert to the other side and loop back to the city, but the path would take us too far from the bus stop. So, I decided to walk back the way I came.

Klaipėda Old Town

Day 4: Šiauliai, Lithuania 🇱🇹

Today will be my last day in Lithuania. In the morning, I traveled from Klaipėda to Šiauliai, which is near the Lithuanian-Latvian border.

I took the train again for this trip, which only took 2 hours. Actually, I passed through this city on my way here, so we can swap the plans for days 3 and 4. The bus that will take us across the border to Riga will also depart from Klaipėda.

The city of Šiauliai is actually a small town located near the border. However, it attracts many tourists because it is close to the Hill of Crosses (Kryžių kalna), a world-renowned sacred site for Lithuanians.

The Sweet Apartments, a renovated century-old chocolate factory, exceeded my expectations. While budget-friendly accommodations near the bus station are scarce, I secured a spacious apartment for six at a mere €23.4 per night. The building's exterior, currently under renovation, resembled a construction site, and dust was noticeable. However, the interior was expansive and well-equipped with amenities.

Hill of Crosses (Hill of Crosses)

Reaching the Hill of Crosses is straightforward, though not without its challenges. The most convenient option is to hire a taxi directly from the city center or the Šiauliai tourist office. You can request the taxi to wait for your return or ask the Hill of Crosses tourist information center to arrange a return trip for you. A round-trip fare typically costs around 22 euros, with additional charges for waiting time. The final price depends on your negotiation skills.

A more economical option for solo travelers with time to spare is to take a public bus from Šiauliai Bus Station to the Domantai stop. Several buses pass through this stop at various times; you can check the schedule here. The bus departs from platform number 12 (this may change in the future, so check the signs at the platform or inquire at the office upon arrival). For the return trip, simply take the same bus back. Tickets can be purchased on board for 0.84 euros. Upon reaching Domantai, you will need to walk approximately 2 kilometers to reach the Hill of Crosses.

The bus departed from the station, picking up passengers at designated stops along the way before heading out of town. There was no traffic, and it took about 15 minutes to arrive. I used Google Maps to check our progress, but if you don't have internet access, I recommend standing near the driver once the road becomes open fields and asking them to let you know when you reach your stop.

On the way back, we waited for the bus and met the same driver again. He drove us back to the bus station in the opposite direction. My Taiwanese friend quickly left to catch a bus to Riga, while the two Japanese girls were going to Vilnius. However, they didn't book their tickets in advance, so they had to take a late bus. We decided to walk around the city, which didn't have much to offer in terms of attractions. The only interesting place was the city park (Vaikų žaidimų aikštelė).

Children's playground

This public park features a lake, a giant iron fox sculpture, boats, a fishing uncle, a flock of ducks, and some very aggressive swans. It's almost a two-kilometer walk from the bus station and doesn't offer anything particularly special. While the atmosphere is pleasant, the path leading to the park is quite isolated. If you're visiting alone, it's advisable to head back before nightfall.