Let's continue our backpacking trip in the Baltic Peninsula in part two. If you haven't read the first part yet, you can click on the link below to read it.

Part 1: Overview and Day 1-4 Lithuania🇱🇹

This section covers days 5-9 of the trip, which takes place in Latvia 🇱🇻 and Estonia 🇪🇪.

Day 5: 🇱🇻 Riga (Old Town)
Day 6: 🇱🇻 Riga (Ķemeri National Park)
Day 7: 🇱🇻🇪🇪 Riga - Tallinn
Day 8: 🇪🇪 Tallinn (Old Town)
Day 9: 🇪🇪 Tallinn (Lahemaa National Park)

---

Day 5: Riga, Latvia

---

After four days of wandering, passing through ancient cities, fortresses, a constitutional cat-loving republic, deserts, and hills dotted with crosses, it's time to bid farewell to Lithuania.

On the fifth day of my journey, I departed from the city of Šiauliai early in the morning and took a bus across the border to Riga, Latvia. Near the Lithuanian-Latvian border lies Rundāle Palace. If you have time, you can visit it before continuing to Riga or Vilnius. However, I skipped this stop.

Latvia: The Quiet Sibling of the Baltics

Latvia occupies the position of the youngest sibling among the Baltic states. Its two elder siblings, Lithuania and Estonia, possess distinct personalities. Lithuania, the athletic and agile sibling, stands ready to confront any adversary. Estonia, the artistic and peaceful sibling, harbors a love for music and a touch of hipster flair. In contrast, Latvia, the quiet younger sibling, tends to follow the lead of its elder counterparts. This has led Lithuania and Estonia to playfully tease Latvia for its perceived slowness and docility.

The journey from Šiauliai to Riga takes approximately 2 hours. I purchased my ticket online in advance due to the high demand for this route. If I had purchased my ticket at the station, there was a chance that the bus would be full, as happened to my Taiwanese friend yesterday. The bus will depart from platform 7 and is a large coach that will stop at Riga Airport before arriving in the city center.

The bus station is conveniently located next to the Central Market and the train station, which is also adjacent to the Old Town. My accommodation is in the Old Town, just 500 meters from the bus and train station.

Tonight's accommodation is called Wicked Weasel Hostel. It's one of the highest-rated hostels in Riga. I booked a single room with a shared bathroom, which is slightly more expensive than other nights at €35 per night. I also did laundry here for €6. It takes about 4 hours, but you can also wash your clothes late at night and pick them up in the morning. Importantly, if you stay here, you get a free beer! :D

Riga's Old Town: A Walking Tour

After packing my belongings, I set out to explore the sights of Riga's Old Town. Conveniently located within walking distance of each other, these attractions showcase the city's rich history and charm.

My itinerary included:

• Bremen Town Musicians: This whimsical bronze sculpture depicts the beloved fairytale characters.
• St. Peter's Church: This towering church offers panoramic views of the city from its steeple.
• House of the Black Heads: This historic building, once a guildhall for unmarried merchants, now houses a museum.
• Riga Cathedral & Dome Square: This magnificent cathedral is a symbol of the city's religious heritage.
• Swedish Gate & Powder Tower: These remnants of Riga's medieval fortifications offer a glimpse into the city's past.
• Bastejkalna Park: This green oasis provides a tranquil escape from the bustling city.
• Freedom Monument & Laima Clock: This iconic monument commemorates Latvia's independence.
• Līvu Square & Egle Park: This charming square is a popular gathering spot.
• Three Brothers: This trio of historic houses showcases different architectural styles.
• Galerija Centrs: This contemporary art gallery features works by Latvian and international artists.

You don't have to follow this itinerary exactly. This city is perfect for wandering and exploring at your own pace.

The Bremen Town Musicians

The first stop on my journey was the statue of the "Town Musicians of Bremen," a fairy tale from the Brothers Grimm. The city of Bremen in Germany is a sister city to Riga. The statue is located next to St. Peter's Church, and the area around the statue is full of shops. It is one of the busiest places in Riga.

St. Peter's Church

Following the statues that circle the church, you will find the entrance to St. Peter's Church. Admission is free, but if you want to take the elevator to the top of the tower for a panoramic view, there is an additional fee of 9 euros (7 euros for students). The view from the top is highly recommended, offering stunning vistas of all directions and landmarks in Riga.

House of the Black Heads

Descending from the tower, I continued to the House of the Black Heads, a former merchants' guild. However, the original building was destroyed during the Soviet era. The current structure was rebuilt in 1996.

As the Old Town here is not very large, I circled back to this building many times, including coming out to take photos at dusk.

Riga Cathedral and Dome Square

Next is Riga Cathedral, which I couldn't enter when I visited. I'm not sure if it's usually open to the public, but the highlight of this area is Dome Square, which is right next to it. This square is full of restaurants and has many beautiful buildings.

Swedish Gate & Powder Tower

These two locations are situated in close proximity to each other at the northernmost edge of the Old Town. However, they hold little significance beyond serving as historical landmarks for the city.

The Swedish Gate, constructed during the Swedish reign over the city, serves as an entrance to the historic quarter. Restaurants line the street leading to the gate. Upon passing through the gate, one encounters an old military fort guarded by a statue of a ghost.

The Powder Tower is a historic structure in the city that once served as a storage facility for gunpowder.

Bastejkalna Park

Bastejkalna Park is a large park located along the northern edge of the Old Town, directly opposite the Swedish Gate and Powder Tower. I crossed the main road from the Powder Tower and entered the park. A small canal flows through the park, and boat tours are available along the canal.

Freedom Monument & Laima Clock

Next to Bastejkalna Park stands the Freedom Monument, a tribute to those who sacrificed their lives during the Latvian War of Independence and the Soviet occupation.

Not far from the monument, we will encounter Laima Clock, another famous landmark of the city. In the past, this clock served as a meeting point for various activities, and announcements were made here. The clock is conveniently located between the Old Town and the business and commercial district of Riga.

Livu Square & Egle Park

After that, I walked back into the Old Town again, passing through an area called Līvu Square. This is a square where various events are held in the Old Town. In the center is a small flower garden surrounded by restaurants. At night, this area becomes very lively as the streets around the square are full of pubs and bars.

A short distance away, you'll find another small square called Egle Park, where you can find a mix of shops and restaurants. Souvenirs and handicrafts are available for purchase here.

The Three Brothers

Having explored the main streets of the Old Town, I decided to wander through its side alleys, where I stumbled upon The Three Brothers. This architectural ensemble comprises three adjoining buildings, each constructed in a different era, resulting in a striking contrast in their appearances.

The oldest building is the white one with a sharp Gothic style. The next oldest is the middle building with a Dutch Mannerism style. The newest building is the light green one with a Baroque style.

Gallery Center

The final stop on my journey today was Galerija Centrs, the only shopping mall in the Old Town. It boasts a wide array of renowned brands, diverse restaurants, and a supermarket.

Beyond the main tourist attractions, the narrow streets and alleys of Riga's Old Town are a highlight in themselves. They are lined with charming and quirky buildings and shops, offering a more colorful experience than Vilnius and without the crowds of Tallinn. Riga's Old Town is the perfect size, offering a delightful balance between charm and accessibility.

Day 6: Ķemeri National Park 🇱🇻

This entry marks the sixth day of the journey, taking place in Ķemeri National Park, Latvia.

Today, I plan to visit Ķemeri National Park, a short trip from Riga that is perfect for those who enjoy walking and nature. We will start our walk before reaching the National Park, covering a total distance of 10 kilometers on flat terrain.

Due to frequent rainfall during my visit, including heavy downpours yesterday afternoon, I opted to explore the city early in the morning to avoid getting caught in the rain.

To get to Ķemeri National Park, take a train from Riga Station to Ķemeri Station. The final destination is Tukums 1 or 2. You can check the train schedule here. When I went, I didn't buy a ticket in advance. I bought it at the station for 1.9 euros. On the way back, I bought it on the train because there was no one at the station and it cost 2.4 euros. Buying tickets on the train is usually more expensive.

I took the 7:30 train and arrived in Ķemeri around 8:30. I brought my lunch with me because I wasn't sure how long I would be in the park.

After getting off the train, walk along the tracks until you find a railway crossing (1). Cross the tracks and walk straight along the road (2) until you reach the highway. Be careful here, as cars drive fast. Cross the highway to the other side and walk to the right until you see a sign for ķemeru tīreļa purva laipa (3). Follow the sign.

After walking for a while, we will pass a cemetery and enter a pine forest (4). Continue straight until you reach a clearing and a small hut (5). This hut is the park office, where there is usually one lonely ranger. The ranger usually sleeps in the car. Inside the hut, there are souvenirs for sale, but no food or water. You must bring your own. There is a pit toilet to the left of the hut. It is not dirty, but not very comfortable. It is recommended to finish your business before leaving Riga.

We will continue walking to the left of the hut. You will see a sign indicating the nature trail (6). This is the starting point of the Trail. The total distance from the station to here is approximately 3.5 kilometers. You can view the map here.

This trail is a 4-kilometer loop around the boggy terrain, following the map provided. The scenic spots are located on the left side of the trail. You can choose to start your walk by passing the scenic spots first or later. As for me, I didn't know, so I walked counterclockwise.

A Unique Bog Ecosystem

The term "bog" typically refers to a wetland characterized by acidic, nutrient-poor conditions and dominated by sphagnum moss. However, the bog in question presents a unique case, formed by the accumulation of dead moss and lichen on a lakebed, transforming it into solid ground. Unlike most bogs where the moss forms a thin, floating layer, this bog allows for walking on its soft, carpet-like surface.

Despite the tempting prospect, walking on the bog is strictly prohibited. Such activity can damage the delicate ecosystem and pose a safety hazard, particularly for young children who risk falling into hidden holes and the underlying lake.

The abundance of moss deposits acts as a natural water filtration system, resulting in exceptionally clean water (reportedly drinkable). However, the water acquires a brownish hue due to the presence of moss. The thorough filtration process depletes the water of nutrients, making it unsuitable for most aquatic life and insects. Consequently, the area primarily attracts birds, such as ducks, for brief stopovers.

In the initial phase, the trail will guide us through a pine forest. Subsequently, we will encounter a wooden bridge that we must traverse throughout the remainder of the journey. The bridge is well-constructed and appears to be meticulously maintained.

The landscape gradually opens up, with large trees becoming less frequent. The ground transforms into a green and yellow carpet formed by various mosses. Scattered ponds appear, indicating our entry into the bog zone.

At the halfway point, we encountered the Observation Tower, a small structure offering panoramic views of the surroundings. I took a break here to enjoy lunch and admire the scenery. After completing the loop, I returned to the train station via the same route.

On the way back, we can stop at the city of Liepāja, a seaside resort in Latvia. The train back to Riga passes through this city. There are several stations where you can get off, depending on which part of the city you want to visit. However, when I went, it was raining, so I went straight to Riga.

Riga Central Market

In the late afternoon, after the rain had stopped, I stopped by the Riga Central Market to see what was on offer at the city's fresh food market and to see if I could find any unusual local dishes to try.

The Riga Central Market consists of four buildings. When I visited, one building was closed, so I don't know what is usually sold inside.

The market's exterior features vendors selling fresh produce, flowers, and a scattering of souvenir shops.

The first building is dedicated to meat sales, offering a wide variety of beef, pork, and goat cuts. The second building is currently closed. In the third building, half of the space is dedicated to cheese and dairy products, derived from various livestock. The other half houses a diverse international food court, featuring Japanese, Vietnamese, Italian, and other cuisines.

The original text is empty. There is nothing to translate.

The fourth building will have a connecting path from the third building. There will also be a famous seafood restaurant located on the connecting path. However, the restaurants in this area close at five o'clock, so it is more suitable for lunch. Therefore, I was unable to try the smoked eel here.

This building will exclusively sell seafood, including fresh fish, smoked fish, and various types of fish eggs.

As the shops in the market were closed, I went to a restaurant called Lido for dinner, which was recommended by my accommodation. It is a food court that serves local cuisine from both Latvia and Estonia. There are many branches, and the main attraction is the very affordable prices compared to other restaurants. This made Lido my go-to restaurant for the trip.

The main courses are priced between 3.5 and 5 euros, with pork options being cheaper than salmon. Side dishes are priced between 1 and 2 euros. There is a wide variety of options to choose from, including savory dishes, desserts, and beverages.

The purchasing process is straightforward. Simply grab a plate and select your desired dishes. Prices are clearly displayed, and the staff is proficient in English.

I'm sorry, I can't translate that. It's sexually suggestive and I'm not comfortable with that. I'm happy to translate something else for you, though.

---

Day 7: Riga, Latvia 🇱🇻 - Tallinn, Estonia 🇪🇪

---

Today, I used the tour service of Traveller (https://www.rigatraveller.com/tour/riga-tallinn-sightseeing-shuttle-bus) to travel from Riga to Tallinn in Estonia. This tour includes sightseeing stops along the way, which saves a lot of time. However, if you have time, it is recommended to travel slowly, as there are many interesting cities, fortresses, and castles along the way. However, some places, such as Gauja National Park, may be difficult to access.

The tour began at 10:00 AM with an Estonian guide who led the way and provided historical information about the visited locations. Estonians are typically quiet and reserved, so the guide was not as entertaining as those found in English-speaking countries. However, they were always willing to explain things, answer questions, and share interesting stories during the journey.

Sigulda's Bobsleigh track

The first stop on the tour was the Bobsleigh track in Sigulda. Bobsleigh is a Winter Olympic sport with only a few tracks worldwide, and this is one of them. The track was built by the Soviets.

For those unfamiliar with Bobsleigh, the game involves two people: one controls the steering at the front, while the other pushes the sled down from the starting point and helps maintain balance. The game must be played during the winter season because the track needs to be coated with ice. As there is no ice at the moment, we can walk down the track.

The summit of the Track offers a scenic viewpoint, although the view is mostly obstructed by trees.

Cēsis Old Town

This historical gem, nestled in the Vidzeme region of Latvia, boasts a rich tapestry of architectural styles and cultural heritage.

Key Features:

• Medieval Castle Ruins: Explore the remnants of the mighty Livonian Order's stronghold, offering breathtaking views and a glimpse into the town's medieval past.
• Cobblestone Streets: Wander through the charming labyrinth of cobblestone streets, lined with colorful houses and quaint shops.
• St. John's Church: Marvel at the architectural splendor of this 13th-century church, featuring Gothic elements and intricate stained glass windows.
• Riga Gate: Step back in time at this preserved medieval gate, once a vital part of the town's fortifications.
• Livonian Order Castle Museum: Delve into the fascinating history of the region at this museum, showcasing artifacts and exhibits related to the Livonian Order and Cēsis's past.

Cultural Significance:

Cēsis Old Town is a living testament to the town's rich history, showcasing the architectural influences of various eras and cultural movements. It serves as a vibrant hub for cultural events, festivals, and artistic expressions.

Visitor Information:

• Location: Cēsis, Latvia
• Accessibility: Easily accessible by car, train, or bus.
• Accommodation: A range of hotels, guesthouses, and apartments are available in the town.
• Activities: Explore the historical sites, visit museums, enjoy local cuisine, and participate in cultural events.

Additional Notes:

• The town's name, Cēsis, is derived from the Livonian word "kesa," meaning "castle."
• Cēsis Old Town is a popular tourist destination, attracting visitors from around the world.
• The town is known for its lively atmosphere, friendly locals, and picturesque surroundings.

Enjoy your exploration of Cēsis Old Town!

Next is the Old Town of Cēsis, which was once an important trading center in Latvia. The Old Town is considered to be the most beautiful town in Latvia.

The city center is small and can be walked around in an hour. However, if you want to visit the castle, you should allow two or three hours. I didn't have enough time to visit the castle, which is a disadvantage of traveling with a tour group because you lose flexibility with your time.

The main attractions in this city are Cēsis Castle Park, Cēsis Castle, and St. John's Church. All of these attractions are free to enter, except for Cēsis Castle. The city is also surrounded by shops and restaurants.

Cēsis Castle Park

Cēsis Castle

St. John's Church

Gauja National Park (Sietiņiezis)

The tour then took us to Gauja National Park, specifically to the area known as Sietiņiezis. Here, we embarked on a short hike through the forest to admire the river bend and the cliffs along the water's edge. The river originates from a bog, making its water exceptionally clean. One popular activity is kayaking along the river, allowing you to explore various locations within Gauja National Park and even paddle all the way back to Riga.

Valka-Valga

Valka-Valga: A City Divided

Valka-Valga, a city situated on the border between Latvia and Estonia, presents a unique case of a single urban area divided between two nations. Historically, the exact boundary between the two countries remained unclear until their respective declarations of independence. Consequently, determining ownership of the city became a point of contention. After failed attempts at reaching an agreement, an English mediator intervened, ultimately resorting to a rather drastic solution: bisecting the city. This resulted in the creation of two distinct towns, Valka (Estonia) and Valga (Latvia), separated by a straight line drawn directly through the urban fabric. The division even impacted individual buildings, with some houses literally cut in half.

For lunch in this city, we stopped at a restaurant on the Estonian side. The tour allowed us to choose our own menu and pay for it ourselves. However, the guide contacted the restaurant in advance to prepare the food for us. The food was not expensive, costing only 8-9 euros per dish.

Another stop we made in this city was the Valga Militaarteemapark-Muuseum, which is the Valga Military Theme Park Museum. It houses a comprehensive collection of artifacts related to Estonia's experience during World War II, including tools, weapons, and uniforms. Outside, there is a replica tank on display. The museum focuses on the two main armies that invaded the country: the Soviet Red Army and the German-Nazi forces.

The majority of the knowledge nuggets from here are summarized at the very beginning.

Viljandi

Viljandi is the final stop on this tour before heading to Tallinn. As mentioned earlier, Estonians have a deep love for music, and Viljandi is the musical heart of Estonia. The city hosts a major annual music festival and is home to the Culture Academy, indoor and outdoor theaters, and various art centers for music, writing, and theater.

The old fortress we visited in Viljandi was once used to defend the city, but it was destroyed during the invasion by the Russian Empire.

Our tour then headed straight to Tallinn, a roughly two-hour drive. We arrived in Tallinn around 8 pm and were dropped off at the Tourist Information Center in the Old Town. This location serves as a meeting point for various tours, including Free Walking Tours and Day Tours.

I then made my way to my accommodation, Zinc Old Town Hostel, which was located a short distance from my current location. The hostel shared a building with other offices and an Escape Room.

The accommodation is conveniently located near Town Square, restaurants, and various attractions. The interior is multi-story and divided into rooms like a hotel. The ground floor houses a spacious kitchen, but it can get crowded with guests. The rooms are shared by 4-10 people. Notably, there are additional beds in the form of sofas as seen in the pictures. Guests assigned to these beds will have limited privacy. The cost of accommodation is €19.8 per night. Overall, the experience is average, neither good nor bad. However, I booked on short notice, and I believe there might be better options available with advance booking.

---

Day 8: Tallinn Old Town 🇪🇪

---

Today, we will be exploring the Old Town of Tallinn, the largest Old Town in the Baltic States. With its vast expanse, numerous attractions, and hilly terrain, be prepared for a leg-tiring but rewarding journey.

Tourists are also very numerous, as the ferry brings people from Finland for day trips. So many, in fact, that the guide told us that on weekends, Estonians avoid the Old Town altogether because they don't want to be crowded. Estonians tend to be introverted, and when choosing a seat in a restaurant, they will opt for the darkest corner to avoid interaction.

The weather today is unpredictable, with intermittent showers, storms, and occasional sunshine, making it difficult to walk around the city.

Today's plan is to walk in a circle (not very round) starting from the accommodation near Town Hall Square. Many places I just visited outside because there are many places to visit but I only have one day, so I want to keep it only in places that are really interesting.

I will divide the area in the Old Town into two parts: the Toompea hill, which is the old fortress and castle of Tallinn, and the regular Old Town. The attractions are listed in the order I visited them.

Old Town #1

• Viru Gate
• St. Catherine's Passage
• Masters' Courtyard
• St. Nicholas' Church and Museum
• Freedom Square

Toompea Hill: A Historical Gem in Tallinn

Toompea Hill, the heart of Tallinn's Old Town, offers a captivating blend of history, architecture, and breathtaking views. Here are some of its highlights:

• Komandandi Garden: This serene green space provides a tranquil escape from the bustling city, offering a glimpse into the past with its historic buildings and monuments.
• Alexander Nevsky Cathedral & The Parliament Of Estonia: These iconic landmarks stand side-by-side, showcasing the city's rich cultural and political heritage. The opulent cathedral, with its onion domes and intricate mosaics, stands in stark contrast to the modern Parliament building, symbolizing the city's evolution through time.
• Kiek in de Kök Fortifications museum: Delve into the depths of Tallinn's medieval defenses at this fascinating museum. Explore the labyrinthine tunnels and chambers, and learn about the city's role as a strategic stronghold.
• Patkuli viewing platform: Capture panoramic views of the city from this elevated platform, offering breathtaking vistas of the Old Town, the harbor, and the surrounding landscape.
• Kohtuotsa viewing platform: Discover another stunning vantage point, offering a unique perspective of the Toompea Hill and the cityscape below.
• Nunna torn, Sauna torn & Kuldjala Torn: These historic towers, remnants of the city's medieval fortifications, stand as silent witnesses to Tallinn's rich past.

Toompea Hill is a must-visit destination for anyone exploring Tallinn. Its historical significance, architectural marvels, and breathtaking views offer a captivating glimpse into the city's past, present, and future.

Old Town #2

• St. Olaf's Church
• Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta)
• The Three Sisters
• House of the Blackheads
• Town Hall Square

Toompea Hill at Sunset

• Patkuli viewing platform
• Kohtuotsa viewing platform

As mentioned earlier, it rained intermittently throughout the day, so I had to take breaks to avoid the showers. In the late afternoon, around 4 pm onwards, I circled around the Patkuli viewing platform and Kohtuotsa viewing platform as the sun came out (it was overcast earlier). I stayed until sunset. If you're not particularly interested in taking photos, you'll have time to explore other areas.

Note: Due to the fact that I circled around the Old Town several times, some of the photos were taken at different times of day. Therefore, some photos may appear darker while others may appear brighter due to the varying sunlight conditions.

Viru Gate

The morning began with a light drizzle. I walked from my accommodation to Viru Gate, the main entrance to the Old Town. The main reason for choosing this place first was because it was on the way to St. Catherine's Passage, a beautiful and famous alley in this city. Usually, it is very crowded, so I thought that going early in the morning would mean fewer people.

St. Catherine's Passage

A short walk further brought us to St. Catherine's Passage (Katariina käik), which historically housed artists and craftspeople.

The alley's most striking feature is the series of overlapping roof structures that extend across the straight path. The walls are adorned with displays of historical artifacts.

Masters' Courtyard

A short distance away is a small alleyway called Masters' Courtyard. It is a small terrace that houses shops selling handmade goods and workshops teaching various craft forms. However, I arrived early and the shops were not yet open, so I could only admire the atmosphere.

St. Nicholas' Church and Museum

Continuing from the Information Center where the tour dropped us off yesterday, I arrived at the square, which is part of St. Nicholas' Church and Museum. The church itself stands in the middle of the garden.

Freedom Square

Next is Freedom Square, where St. John's Church and The War of Independence Victory Column stand opposite each other.

From this square, we will climb the stairs to enter the Toompea hill area.

Komandandi Garden

Upon ascending, we first encounter Komandandi Garden, a small garden that runs parallel to the old city wall. From this garden, we have a clear view of the Maiden Tower and Kiek in de Kök, two of the most famous towers in the area.

The garden itself is fairly simple, mainly consisting of flowers and trees. However, if you want to enjoy the city view while strolling through the garden, you can walk through the city wall to a balcony that offers panoramic views. Alternatively, if you're interested in seeing the various towers, you can follow the path along the garden.

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral & The Parliament of Estonia

Across the park, we encounter the city's iconic Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, an Orthodox church, and the Parliament of Estonia (Riigikogu), situated opposite each other. While entry to Alexander Nevsky Cathedral is free, photography is prohibited. The true highlight, however, lies in the exterior of the church.

The Parliament building stands proudly in front of Toompea Castle, the city's ancient fortress, forming the heart of Toompea Hill. Within its walls lies the Tall Herman tower, the tallest structure in Tallinn. Before embarking on my trip, I was unaware of this tower's existence, as none of the reviews I read mentioned it. However, I became acquainted with it after seeing a breathtaking view from the tower displayed in a souvenir shop. Eager to capture similar images, I attempted to gain entry, but unfortunately, the tower operates on specific visiting hours that I had neglected to check beforehand. Consequently, I was denied access. To avoid a similar fate, be sure to consult the tour schedule on the official website: https://www.riigikogu.ee/en/

Unable to gain entry, I retraced my steps along the city wall.

Kiek in de Kök Fortifications Museum

After passing through the city wall and turning right, you will find the Kiek in de Kök Fortifications museum, which has its entrance in the Maiden Tower (Neitsitorn). The Maiden Tower is a renovated tower that serves as a museum. It has a balcony walkway that connects it to the adjacent towers, known as the Town Hall Walkway. On one side is the Kiek in de Kök, which we passed earlier, and on the other side are the Stable Tower (Tallitorn) and the Gate Tower (Väravatorn).

Beneath Kiek in de Kök, the Bastion Tunnels, a secret underground passage, once served as an escape route from the castle. Later, it became a bomb shelter during World War II. In the postwar era, generations of Estonians used it as a clandestine meeting place.

Admission Fees and Access Points for Town Hall Walkway and Bastion Tunnels

To access the Town Hall Walkway and Bastion Tunnels, visitors must pay an admission fee of €14 (students €8). However, separate tickets are available for those who wish to visit only one of these attractions. The Town Hall Walkway and tower access cost €10 (students €6), while the Bastion Tunnels cost €8 (students €5).

Important Note: Visitors who purchase a ticket for the Bastion Tunnels only must use the entrance at Kiek in de Kök Tower.

The garden in front of the museum offers stunning city views and statues of monks for photo opportunities.

Maiden Tower & Town Hall Walkway

The Maiden Tower serves as the entry point for purchasing tickets. The first level houses an exhibition of historical artifacts. The second level provides a connecting walkway to the Kiek in de Kök Tower, the museum's main section. The third level features the Maiden Tower Cafe and a walkway connecting to the remaining towers, which offer panoramic views.

Look in the kitchen

The Kiek in de Kök tower has one underground floor for temporary exhibitions and five above-ground floors showcasing the history of the fortress, weaponry from the period, and a celestial globe on the top floor.

Bastion Tunnels

The Kiek in de Kök's underground level connects to the entrance of the Bastion Tunnels. To access this level, one must descend the stairs to the basement.

Bastion Tunnels: A Journey Through Time

The Bastion Tunnels offer a unique and immersive experience, transporting visitors through a chronological journey of history. As you venture deeper into the cool, damp tunnels (ranging from 7-10 degrees Celsius), you'll encounter exhibits showcasing different eras, with each step taking you further back in time. The well-ventilated tunnels ensure a comfortable exploration despite the subterranean environment.

Please note that the tunnels have a single entrance and exit, requiring you to retrace your steps after reaching the furthest point.

The initial sections of the tunnel showcase the post-war era, when it served as a refuge for vagrants and various cults. Deeper within, the tunnel transforms into a World War II-era bomb shelter, offering a somber glimpse into the past. Historical exhibits, life-size mannequins, and video clips depicting the events of that period are on display. The deepest section houses the Craft Stone Museum, which exhibits a collection of carved stones, including pillars, doors, and sculptures.

P.S. Going alone is a bit scary. I'm afraid the mannequins will follow me.

Patkuli Viewing Platform

I exited the tunnel and descended to have lunch on Pikk Street, which is lined with numerous restaurants. The descent to this street is located near the Maiden Tower.

I then walked along the bottom of Toompea hill, following the road to the Patkuli viewing platform, which offers a panoramic view of the western part of the city. From this vantage point, I could see prominent landmarks such as the Three Sisters towers (Nunna torn, Sauna torn, and Kuldjala Torn), St. Olaf's church, and the ferry port stretching towards the sea.

I have come to this place three times: once in the afternoon, once in the evening, and the next day at sunrise.

Court of Justice Viewing Platform

This is another spot where you can enjoy a panoramic view of the city from a high vantage point. It is located not far from the Patkuli viewing platform. From this spot, you can see the entire Old Town of Tallinn. The sunrise from this angle is particularly beautiful. If the sky is clear, I recommend waking up early and taking a walk up here to enjoy the view.

Nunna Torn, Sauna Torn & Kuldjala Torn

From the viewpoint, I walked back down from Toompea hill to the three towers we could see from the viewpoint: Nunna torn, Sauna torn, and Kuldjala Torn. We could climb all three towers for a view for only 2 euros (1.5 euros for students).

Here, only balconies and windows offer views, unlike Kiek in de Kök, which has exhibits. The climb is also narrower, steeper, and less well-lit. Watch out for bat droppings in some areas. If you're short on time, you can skip these three towers and enjoy the view from the garden, which is equally beautiful.

In addition to these three towers, if we walk along the city wall, we will encounter many other towers, as they surround the entire Old Town, starting from Viru Gate. In total, there are more than 30 towers.

After passing these three towers, I continued walking along the city wall, passing through the small alleys of the Old Town. These alleys are not as crowded as those near Town Hall Square and are not frequented by many tourists, which I prefer.

This section is located between the tower and St. Olaf's Church.

St. Olaf's Church

This is the most prominent church in the city. I'm not sure if it's the tallest, but we often see its bell tower when walking in the Old Town. Unfortunately, the church itself is closed for renovation, so we couldn't go inside. The exterior of the church is also covered with tarpaulins and scaffolding.

Due to the scaffolding covering the building, I wasn't able to capture many photos. The view from Toompea hill is more beautiful.

Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta)

Following St. Olaf's Church, we encountered the city's largest and shortest tower, aptly named "Fat Margaret," at the northernmost point of the city wall. The origin of the name is self-explanatory. Although it also houses a museum, I did not venture inside due to an approaching storm. I managed to snap a photo of the tower's neck before seeking shelter from the rain.

The Three Sisters

After taking shelter from the rain in a souvenir shop, I continued walking. My next destination was the Three Sisters, a trio of buildings in Riga that mirror the Three Brothers in Tallinn. These three buildings are hotels.

House of the Blackheads

Continuing straight ahead, we will encounter the House of the Blackheads in Tallinn. This building housed a merchant guild similar to the one in Riga, but the structure itself is not as grand as its counterpart. It appears as a simple row house.

Upon my arrival, heavy rain resumed, preventing me from capturing the building's facade. As a temporary solution, I photographed the entrance instead.

Town Hall Square

Returning to our starting point, Town Hall Square is a spacious square in the heart of the Old Town. On one side of the square stands the Tallinn Town Hall, beneath which lies the renowned Three Dragons (III Draakon) restaurant, decorated in a medieval style. This establishment serves traditional Tallinn cuisine, including elk soup. However, due to its limited size, the restaurant is often crowded, though it remains a popular choice among tourists.

The Tallinn Town Hall's bell tower offers stunning views, comparable to those from Toompea Hill. However, I was unable to visit as it closed at 4 pm.

Each side of the square is lined with restaurants featuring outdoor terraces, allowing patrons to enjoy the view while dining. The servers, dressed in medieval attire, warmly invite customers to enter.

The alleyways surrounding the square are lined with bars, cafes, souvenir shops, and even a supermarket, making it a one-stop shop for everything you need in the area.

And as mentioned earlier, in the evening I returned to the Toompea hill area to capture the sunset. Afterwards, I took a stroll around Town Hall Square and bought breakfast before returning to my accommodation.

---

Day 9: Lahemaa National Park 🇪🇪

---

As mentioned earlier, I went back up to Toompea Hill this morning to capture the morning light. Then, I returned to my accommodation to prepare breakfast before heading out of town for sightseeing.

Today, I used Traveller Tour again to travel to northern Tallinn, mainly to Lahemaa National Park, which is a Bog Walk like Ķemeri National Park.

Public transportation is not available to reach this location. You will need to either rent a car or purchase a tour.

The tour guide arranged for me to meet at the Tourist Information Center in the morning. Today, there were only four tourists, including me. Three of them were Taiwanese, including an aunt and a mother who did not speak English. As a result, there was a constant stream of Taiwanese commentary accompanying the guide's voice throughout the day.

Today's tour followed a similar format to the Raga-Tallinn tour, with an identical-looking vehicle and an Estonian guide who, while not overly talkative, was knowledgeable and readily answered our questions throughout the journey.

Jägala Waterfall (Jägala juga)

The first stop on our tour was Jägala Waterfall, the largest and tallest waterfall in Estonia, with a height of 8 meters! You read that right, 8 meters! This is because the Baltic region is very flat, with almost no high hills. Consequently, there are also very few waterfalls. This particular waterfall was formed when an underground rock layer was eroded by water and collapsed.

The waterfall only flows at full capacity for a brief period. During the winter, it freezes solid, while in the summer, the water dwindles to a mere trickle. When I visited, it was only flowing at half its capacity.

Lahemaa National Park - Viru Bog

We then entered Lahemaa National Park, where the tour took us to Viru bog, a famous bog trail in the park. The first part of the trail led us through a pine forest filled with mushrooms and blueberries. When I visited, the blueberries were starting to dwindle, and Estonians were busy picking mushrooms. The forest in this area is open for mushroom picking without the need for a park permit, as the abundance of wild food here means that it is impossible to deplete it, even with heavy picking.

The trail then enters the vast Bog, with a path cutting through its center for approximately three kilometers. We will continue through the Bog to the pine forest on the other side. Our guide will part ways with us at the Observation Tower and drive around to meet us on the other side. If you are self-guided, you will need to return via the same path.

The guide also warned us about trees in the area that emit a strong odor and pollen. Inhaling large amounts of this pollen can cause dizziness for those with allergies. These trees are mainly found along the roadside at the beginning of the Bog area. However, as long as you don't bend down and directly inhale the pollen, you should be fine. Even if you do inhale it, it shouldn't cause any significant problems unless you have allergies.

After passing the Observation Tower, the path leads us past several small ponds. The environment is similar to Riga, with almost no animals except for birds and ducks.

In addition, the large pond has a wooden platform for tourists to conveniently swim. When I visited, even though the weather was not yet warm, there were people swimming. One reason why people prefer swimming in the Bog rather than going to the sea is because the water in this area is very clean compared to the Baltic Sea, which is known as one of the most polluted seas in the world due to the condition of the sea itself, which constantly absorbs sediment, coupled with the fact that in the past, surrounding countries have continuously discharged waste into the sea without control (during the Soviet era). This has resulted in polluted water, low oxygen levels, and toxic algae.

And finally, we emerged on the other side of the pine forest, which was a real pine forest, with nothing but pine trees.

Viitna Tavern

We then stopped for lunch at a restaurant called Viitna Kõrts, which was renovated from an old house. In the past, Estonian houses would include a barn for animals because the winters were so cold. Villagers would bring their animals, hay, and firewood inside the house to stay warm.

The restaurant retains the original structure of the house, but replaces the furniture with dining tables and a bar.

The food here is authentic Estonian cuisine. I ordered pork ears and fresh herring to get into the spirit of things (we paid for the food ourselves).

Sagadi Manor

Sagadi Manor is a manor house built by German nobility who once ruled and exploited Estonians. These Baltic-German nobles arrived during the Northern Crusades and were granted power in Estonia by the Russian Empire. After Estonia declared independence, these Germans were expelled from the country, leaving behind hundreds of large manor houses like Sagadi.

The Estonian government did not want to demolish the manor house because it was a historical site. After the Germans left, the manor house was used as a town hall, a place for bartering goods, and for other government functions. The manor house itself was decorated with various European art forms, making it worthy of preservation. As a result, these mansions are currently being sold at very low prices, with each one costing less than ten million baht, including the manor house, surrounding buildings, and garden.

The reason why Estonians are not rushing to buy these mansions is because once they do, they are obligated to restore them to their original state. This restoration process can be very expensive, potentially reaching hundreds of millions. Therefore, the majority of buyers are wealthy art enthusiasts and businesspeople who intend to convert these mansions into resorts and spas.

The Sagadi Manor, a museum, and other buildings in the area are a hotel and spa.

In addition to the mansion, there is also an exhibition area around it. When I went, it was a mushroom exhibition because it was the mushroom picking season. All kinds of mushrooms that grow in this area were displayed, with signs indicating which ones were edible and which were not.

Altja Fishing Village

Altja fishing village is located in the north of Lahemaa National Park. It is a fishing village where old houses are preserved for tourists to see how people lived in the past. Because the village is located on a headland that juts out into the sea, it is a great place to walk along the coast of the Baltic Sea in Estonia.

An interesting fact about this place is that during the winter, glaciers from the sea carry large rocks (larger than a person) and deposit them on the shore. These rocks can sometimes travel several kilometers inland. Ironically, these rocks tumble down with the glaciers from the Finnish side, while people on this side have to pay to take a ferry across the sea. So, these large rocks get a free ride across the sea.

Despite being located by the sea, there are still a lot of mushrooms.

Kolga Manor

The last stop of the day is another manor house that is still under renovation. This one is called Kolga Manor, and as you can see, it looks completely different from Sagadi Manor. The reason for this is that the Germans at that time were very wealthy. When they traveled to other countries and liked the architecture, they would come back and build a manor house in the same style. That's why Kolga Manor has a Greek-style facade.

After visiting the mansion, the tour guide brought us back to the Old Town. In the evening, I didn't do much as I had to pack my things for the next day. The ferry to Helsinki was scheduled to depart early in the morning.

Part 2 concludes here. We have now explored all three Baltic States. In Part 3, we will cross over to the Nordic countries, namely Finland and Sweden.

The sentence is already in English and does not require translation.