"Less than ten percent turned left." This was a rough estimate of the number of people who disembarked from the first ferry from Center Point Pier to Koh Chang three years ago. It was our first visit to Koh Chang. With limited time and an itinerary that didn't go as planned, we ended up exploring only the right side of the island. The crystal-clear water and beautiful sandy beaches lived up to our expectations, and the amenities were as plentiful as those on the mainland. However, the crowds and hustle and bustle were also present, which is probably how most people perceive Koh Chang, and we were no different. This time, we returned to experience Koh Chang from a different perspective, focusing solely on the left side of the island.
The island reveals its duality as we ride our rented motorbike from the port towards its left side. Lush greenery lines both sides of the road, a tapestry of rubber and coconut plantations interspersed with local houses. Hotels dot the landscape, their presence less dense than expected. The fresh morning air, infused with the scent of the sea, and the gentle sunlight create a refreshing start to our journey. The tranquility of the road allows us to count the few vehicles passing by. A mere turn reveals a stark contrast.
"Turn right for vibrant lights and excitement, or turn left for nature and tranquility."
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The left side of Koh Chang, while not densely populated with accommodations, offers a variety of options ranging from homestays to luxury resorts. For those seeking a unique experience, consider a homestay with a diving package and meals included. To immerse yourself in local culture, we recommend staying at a homestay in Ban Salak Phet or Ban Salak Kok, both fishing villages. Not only will you witness the daily life of fishermen, but you'll also have the opportunity to savor fresh seafood.
The activities are no less exciting than the other side. Diving packages can be purchased from the accommodation. You can also kayak across the island, play in the waterfall, or walk the nature trail of the mangrove forest. However, the activity that made us most excited was taking a wooden boat to see the mangrove forest at Ban Salakkok. When you reach the fork, turn left towards the sign "Salakkok-Jack Bae" to head to the "Salakkok Local Tour Club". It's the same way as the Salakkok Seafood restaurant. The route is not very complicated, but you need to pay attention to the signs.
The Ban Salakkok Local Tourism Club was established by community members to promote ecotourism and generate additional income. This allows community members to benefit from their own resources, fostering a sense of ownership and encouraging collective conservation efforts. Community-based tourism serves as a shield against those who seek to exploit resources, potentially harming the community. Activities include kayaking through the mangrove forest, or for those who prefer a more leisurely experience, a gondola-style boat ride known as the "Koh Chang Gondola."
After contacting the Salakkok Local Tourism Club for a long-tailed boat ride, the club called the oarsman and we understood that "it's our turn to row the boat." We didn't wait long before a man holding a large white umbrella led us to the boarding point. The long-tailed boat can accommodate 4 people and costs 200 baht per person. We asked the staff why it had to be this type of boat and were told that it was an old boat that villagers had modified by adding a table and an umbrella. When King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) visited Koh Chang, he used a long-tailed boat as a means of transportation to admire the beauty of Salakkok Bay.
The gentle sound of the paddle hitting the still, blue-green water filled the air. To the right, the stilt houses of the fishing village of Salak Kok came into view. As the boat continued its journey, the scenery on both sides gradually transformed into a lush, clean mangrove forest, virtually free of debris. From my conversation with the boatman, I learned that the villagers regularly organize garbage collection drives, ensuring the pristine beauty of the mangroves for tourists. This exemplifies the concept of "using tourism as a shield to protect nature." The income generated from tourism is shared among the community members annually, primarily through boat rides and kayaking activities. Homestay accommodations, on the other hand, are privately owned and operated.
The camera shutter clicked incessantly, but the breathtaking beauty defied capture. Who would have thought that Koh Chang harbored such a hidden gem? Despite the decade-long existence of the wooden boat service, it remained largely absent from media and social media. The scenery transformed once again as the rowboat reached the bay's mouth, transitioning from vibrant green mangroves to a vast expanse of water before retracing its path. The entire journey, a mere 40 minutes, left an unforgettable impression.
The next destination is Wat Salak Phet. Opposite the temple is the entrance to the "Baan Na Nai Mangrove Forest Nature Study Trail", also known as the Salak Phet Mangrove Forest Restoration Project. This nature trail features a 520-meter-long red wooden bridge that extends to the mouth of Salak Phet Bay.
The trail winds through diverse mangrove vegetation. During sunset, the leaves of red and white mangroves shimmer with a greenish-yellow hue against the backdrop of rolling hills. Despite the weathered wooden bridge, the site attracts a steady stream of visitors, particularly international tourists.
This nature trail highlights the significance of mangrove forests as a vital habitat and food source for marine life. A healthy and abundant mangrove ecosystem supports a thriving population of aquatic animals, directly impacting the livelihoods of local communities who rely on fishing as their primary source of income. The economic implications extend beyond the immediate community, influencing regional economic stability. Conversely, the destruction of mangrove forests would ultimately have detrimental consequences for humans. Therefore, visitors are encouraged to leave only footprints and memories, actively preserving the environment by refraining from littering, vandalism, or damaging the vegetation. Whether local residents or tourists, embracing responsible ecotourism practices is crucial for ensuring the continued existence of this beautiful natural environment.
Our accommodation, "Journey's End," is a budget-friendly homestay located near the southern tip of Koh Chang's west coast. It offers five guest rooms and camping facilities, along with food and beverage services. As a newly established homestay, it has a limited capacity for guests. The caretaker provided us with their business card, assuring us that we could contact them for assistance with car trouble, fuel shortages, flat tires, getting lost, or any other issues. While we didn't require extensive amenities, the homestay's simplicity and the caretaker's kindness made our stay a pleasant experience.
From the 200-meter room, the sea is calm and the pointed mountain peak is visible. The shallow water invites even non-swimmers to kayak in the sea, even on a day with a cloudy sky. If you have enough arm strength, you can paddle to the small islands.
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There are still many places on the left side of Koh Chang that we haven't been to, but we don't feel disappointed because it makes us want to come back again. Gradually get to know Koh Chang in this perspective. What impressed us was the peacefulness and nature. Naturalness in this sense, in addition to the environment, also includes the way of life of the original community in the area. We have traveled along with learning. The tranquility of the left side of Koh Chang invites us to do everything slower than before. From people who are in a hurry to travel in a way that they don't want to miss any check-in points, worry about whether there will be a lot of people at that place, and get upset with the chaotic atmosphere, disappointed on days when the weather is not good. Instead, let everything go according to the situation. Another impressive thing is that our tourism makes people in the community proud of themselves, which will lead to sustainability for the community and the environment.
Travel Information
Tour buses can be boarded at Ekkamai and Mo Chit bus terminals. Cherdchai Tour buses can be purchased at the bus terminal and have more frequent departures than those of the Transport Co., Ltd. Advance bookings are not accepted. Transport Co., Ltd. tour buses can be booked in advance on the website Transport Co., Ltd.
From Trat Bus Terminal, there are shared taxis available to take you to the Center Point Pier. The fare should not exceed 80 baht.
We purchased a round-trip ferry ticket with a return bus to Bangkok from Cherchai Tour at the ferry ticket booth. The price was 330 baht, slightly more expensive than buying it ourselves, but it guaranteed us a bus back to Bangkok. This price also included a shared taxi from the pier to Trat Bus Terminal. If you prefer to buy your own tickets, you can do so at the ticket counter at Trat Bus Terminal.
For transportation on the island, we recommend renting a motorbike at the pier so you can visit many places. The rental fee is 250 baht per day. If you cannot ride a motorbike, there are shared taxis available for a price to be negotiated.
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Wednesday, February 26, 2025 3:36 PM