Readme before you journey
Lost in the charm of yesteryear, retracing the legend of U Thong city.
U Thong, a name familiar to me since childhood, was often mentioned by my social studies teacher as the origin of King U Thong, the founder of Ayutthaya. He was said to have fled a plague from U Thong. However, this memory must be discarded, as archaeological evidence suggests that U Thong was already abandoned for at least 200-300 years before King U Thong established Ayutthaya. Therefore, it is highly unlikely that he originated from this city.
The ancient proverb "Seeing is believing" aptly captures the essence of experiential learning. No amount of theoretical knowledge can truly replace the firsthand experience of witnessing historical sites. To gain a deeper understanding of the history of U Thong, a journey to the ancient city itself was imperative. Seizing the opportune moment, I embarked on a voyage to explore the ruins of U Thong.
The journey to the ancient city of U Thong is a breeze, located just 30 kilometers from Suphan Buri city center and conveniently situated within the U Thong district itself. From Suphan Buri, a short drive along Malai Man Road will take you straight to your destination.
This journey has provided me with a wealth of experiences, which I would like to share with you.
"The remarkable aspect of U Thong is that it was able to develop from an agricultural society into a thriving urban center, becoming the first state in mainland Southeast Asia."
Archaeological evidence reveals a long history of human settlement in the U Thong region, dating back at least 3,000 years. Numerous prehistoric artifacts have been unearthed, including stone tools, beads, pottery, and spears. However, the most remarkable aspect of U Thong lies in its transformation from an agricultural society to a thriving urban center. This development marked the emergence of the first state in mainland Southeast Asia, known as Suvarnabhumi. Moreover, U Thong flourished as a major international trading port for centuries, from the Funan period through the Dvaravati period, spanning several hundred years.
It is incredible to discover a Roman coin from the reign of Emperor Victorinus, dating back 1,700 years, and a carnelian bead over 2,000 years old, originating from India. These findings suggest that U Thong was an early Thai city-state integrated into the globalized trade network connecting the West and the East.
"If we interpret U Thong as the first Thai city-state to enter the globalized system, it would not be inaccurate."
"This statement highlights the potential of U Thong as a significant player in early globalization."
Not only that, within the city of U Thong, numerous Buddhist archaeological sites have been discovered, dating back to both the prehistoric and historic periods. This indicates that U Thong was one of the earliest centers of Buddhism in Thailand. To be more precise, Buddhism was firmly established in U Thong before any other ancient city of the Dvaravati period.
The most compelling evidence supporting this claim is a terracotta plaque depicting three monks carrying alms bowls. This artifact, dating back to the Amaravati period of Indian art (circa 1,700 years old), is the oldest Buddhist-related object found in Thailand. It also serves as the earliest evidence of the presence of Buddhist monks in the Suvarnabhumi region.
Another significant artifact is the complete set of Dhammachakra stele, pedestal, and pillar, dating back to 1,200-1,400 years ago. It is considered the most complete Dhammachakra stele in Thailand and cannot be found anywhere else except at the U Thong National Museum. This set of Dhammachakra helps to unravel the mystery of how the Dhammachakra was installed. It also symbolizes that the "Wheel of Dharma" of the Buddha has arrived in the land of Suvarnabhumi.
"This is the first place in Thailand to receive Buddhism."
"Where Buddhism was firmly established."
"Before all other ancient cities of the Dvaravati period."
The museum houses a vast collection of priceless artifacts, including Buddha statues, gold ornaments, ancient inscriptions, coins, Shiva lingams, and terracotta sculptures. Among these treasures, several pieces are unique and can only be found at the U Thong Museum.
Top left image: Roman coin
Top right image: Carnelian stone bead necklace
Bottom left image: A burnt clay tablet depicting three monks carrying alms bowls.
Lower right image: Stone Dharma Wheel with pedestal and pillar.
Interior Atmosphere of the U Thong Museum Exhibition Hall
Ancient pagoda fragments on display at the U Thong Museum.
"There are many ancient artifacts that are "the best of the best".
You must visit the U Thong Museum to see them."
Besides the archaeological artifacts, U Thong also boasts dozens of Dvaravati-era archaeological sites. Most of them are stupas and viharas, which have collapsed and left only their bases. However, they still vividly reflect the past glory of U Thong. They are imbued with magic and historical stories waiting to be discovered. Meanwhile, scattered structures from later periods, such as the Ayutthaya era, can also be found in the U Thong area.
Stupa No. 2, located outside the city wall on the north side, is one of the large stupas discovered in the old city. Although what remains today is only a 2-meter-high stupa base, it is believed that this stupa base alone can tell many historical stories. For example, we can know that people in the central plains during the Dvaravati period did not eat glutinous rice, but mainly ate sticky rice. This is based on the characteristics of rice chaff in the brick, which is a plump variety, different from the rice chaff in the brick found in later archaeological sites, which is longer and narrower. Or the black and gray color in the center of many bricks, which is a characteristic of bricks that are not fully fired, can tell us about the heat control technology at that time, which was not very advanced.
Hypothetical Appearance of Chedi Number 2
This sentence describes the hypothetical appearance of Chedi Number 2.
Scholars hypothesize that U Thong may have been the first capital of the Dvaravati Kingdom, which laid the foundation for Thai civilization.
The discovery of numerous archaeological artifacts from the early Dvaravati period in U Thong has led scholars to believe that it may have been the first capital of the Dvaravati kingdom, which laid the foundation for Thai civilization. However, it is believed that U Thong's prosperity declined around 1500-1600 CE. One contributing factor was the tectonic shift that caused sea levels to drop, pushing the coastline southward. This impacted the maritime trade routes that U Thong had been a central hub for centuries.
While U Thong is renowned for its ancient stupas and pagodas, it also boasts several active temples with resident monks that are well worth a visit. One such temple is Wat Khao Phra Si Sanphet, also known as "Wat Khao Phra," which sits atop Khao Phra mountain near the U Thong district. This temple houses the revered reclining Buddha statue, "Luang Pho Sang Si Sanphet," a symbol of the town. The statue resides in a cave along the path leading to the revered footprints of Buddha on the mountain's peak. It is believed to be the same statue mentioned in the local literary work "Khun Chang Khun Phaen," in the episode where Khun Phaen flees with Nang Wan Thong:
"...To Khao Phra I once came to pay homage, Phra Suk shines like fireflies,
Pointing it out to Wan Thong, my little sister,
The moon shines, the afternoon wanes quickly..."
The "Phra Suk" mentioned likely refers to Luang Pho Sang, whose golden covering gives it a radiant glow.
In addition to Luang Pho Sang, Wat Khao Phra also houses several other sacred objects worthy of worship, such as the sandstone footprint of the Buddha in the late Dvaravati style within the pavilion on the mountaintop. There is also a high-relief carved statue of the four-armed Vishnu named "Lord Chakra Narai" in the middle Dvaravati style, enshrined in a shrine at the foot of the mountain near the stairs.
Pavilion on the mountaintop, Wat Khao Phra
Luang Pho Sang Sri Sarrath, Wat Khao Phra
The Footprint of the Buddha at Wat Khao Phra
This phrase refers to a specific location in Thailand, the "Footprint of the Buddha at Wat Khao Phra."
Here's a breakdown:
- รอยพระพุทธบาท: This translates to "Footprint of the Buddha."
- วัดเขาพระ: This translates to "Wat Khao Phra," which is the name of a temple in Thailand.
Therefore, the entire phrase indicates a specific location within the temple where the footprint of the Buddha is believed to be present.
Lord of the Chakra Narai, Wat Khao Phra
A short distance from Wat Khao Phra, there is another significant temple on the mountaintop called "Wat Khao Tham Thiam". This temple houses important historical sites, including a bell-shaped stupa and a late Ayutthaya-era chapel on the summit. At the foot of the mountain, there is also Stupa No. 11, which dates back to the Dvaravati period. This is where the aforementioned stone Dharmachakra, along with its pedestal and pillar, was discovered.
As we ascend the mountain to pay homage to the sacred site, we are enveloped by the lush greenery of diverse flora. For someone like me, who doesn't exercise regularly, reaching the final step was quite a challenge, leaving me breathless. However, the effort was well worth it, as the panoramic view below was breathtaking, erasing all traces of fatigue.
This temple is believed to be the first Buddhist temple in Thailand. This claim is based on the discovery of an inscription in ancient post-Pallava Sanskrit on a stone slab in the temple grounds several decades ago. The inscription reads "Pushyagiri," which translates to "flower mountain." Further research revealed that this term is synonymous with the ancient religious site "Pushpagiri Sanghaaram" in Sanchi, India, which was built during the reign of Emperor Ashoka the Great.
In addition to the Pushyagiri inscription, the stone Dharmachakra, along with its base and pillar found at this temple, when assembled, closely resembles the "Ashoka Pillar" that Emperor Ashoka ordered to be erected in various territories where Buddhism spread.
Considering the parallel account in the Sri Lankan Mahavamsa chronicle, which states that King Ashoka sent Venerable Uttara and Venerable Sona to propagate Buddhism in Suvarnabhumi, believed to encompass parts of present-day Thailand, it has been hypothesized that Wat Khao Tham Tia might be the first Buddhist temple in Thailand, where the two monks may have resided during their mission.
However, the validity of this hypothesis remains a subject of debate. Notably, no inscription from the reign of Ashoka mentions the dispatch of missionaries to Suvarnabhumi. Moreover, the Mahavamsa, a Sri Lankan chronicle that mentions this event, was compiled more than 700 years after Ashoka's death. Therefore, it is challenging to definitively conclude whether the Venerable Uttara and the Venerable Sona actually propagated Buddhism in Suvarnabhumi.
The evidence discovered at Khao Tham Tia, including the Pushyakiri inscription and the Dhammachakra stele, all date to a much later period than the reign of King Ashoka in the 3rd century BCE. Specifically, the Pushyakiri inscription dates to the 13th-14th centuries CE, while the Dhammachakra stele dates to the 12th-13th centuries CE.
Regardless of the truth, the belief in this matter has generated a great creative force from the cooperation of Buddhists in Suphan Buri province and throughout the country in the form of the world's largest cliff carving project, the "Phra Buddha Pushyakiri Sri Suwannabhumi" or "Luang Pho U Thong" on the Mangkorn flying cliff within the Wat Khao Tham Tia. Although the Buddha statue is not yet complete, it has made significant progress.
"Faith has created a great creative force in the form of the world's largest cliff carving project, the 'Phra Buddha Pushyakiri Sri Suwannabhumi' or 'Luang Pho U Thong'."
The pagoda on the top of Khao Tham Tia
The principal Buddha image inside the ubosot on the artificial hilltop
The cave under the cliff at Wat Khao Tham Thiam
A View of U Thong Town from the Top of Khao Tham Thiam
This sentence describes a view of the town of U Thong from the summit of Khao Tham Thiam.
The Golden Mount of Buddha, Phra Phutthaphusakhiri Si Suwannaphumi, or Luang Pho U Thong of Wat Khao Tham Thiam
Note: This translation maintains the original structure and tone, focusing solely on the sentence itself.
The "Pushyagiri" stone inscription is currently on display at the U Thong Museum.
English:
Notes:
- The original text appears to be empty or contain only formatting tags.
- As instructed, I have not attempted to evaluate the task or answer any questions.
- The translation is provided in a simple and concise manner, as requested.
- The HTML structure is preserved in the translation.
- The translation is of the same quality as a local speaker.
Not far from U Thong District, there is another ancient religious site on a mountaintop worth visiting, Wat Khao Disalak. Here, there is a sandstone footprint of the Buddha, built in the late Dvaravati period. What makes this footprint unique is that it is carved in low relief instead of being carved deep into the stone surface, as is the case with most Buddha footprints. Another interesting feature of this place is the panoramic view of the lush rice fields and farms that stretch as far as the eye can see. However, when the harvest season arrives, these fields transform into a sea of golden yellow, creating a different kind of breathtaking atmosphere.
Pavilion and Hall of the Relics on the Mountaintop, Wat Khao Di Salak
Replica of the Buddha's Footprint at Wat Khao Deesalok
Scenic Views Around Wat Khao Di Salak
Note: The original text did not contain any content within the <p> tags. Therefore, I have translated the title "ทิวทิศน์รอบวัดเขาดีสลัก" as "Scenic Views Around Wat Khao Di Salak".
The final religious site we recommend is the Phraya Chakri Shrine, located in U Thong District. It is considered one of the sacred landmarks of U Thong.
Upon first encountering the Chinese-style architecture of the shrine, I mistakenly assumed that the presiding deity was a Chinese god. However, upon entering the inner sanctum for worship, I discovered that the deity was actually of Indian origin. This revelation stemmed from the presence of a four-armed Vishnu statue, carved in high relief from stone in the Dvaravati style, enshrined within the temple.
Legend has it that during the reign of King Rama IV, the statue of Chao Pho Phraya Chakkri floated down the Sam Phan Crocodile River and became lodged in the reeds near U Thong Market. The villagers then retrieved the statue and built a shrine to house it, calling it "Chao Pho Phraya Chakkri" due to the statue's depiction of the deity holding a wheel in one hand. However, the current shrine is only about 30 years old and is located about 50 meters from the original site. The Chinese-style architecture of the shrine likely reflects the predominantly Chinese community surrounding it.
It is widely believed that Chao Pho Phraya Chakkraphat is a highly revered deity. Around 50 years ago, a major fire broke out in U Thong Market, destroying hundreds of houses. Remarkably, the Chao Pho Phraya Chakkraphat shrine remained unscathed, leaving the locals in awe.
"When I first saw the Chinese-style architecture of the shrine,
I assumed that Chao Pho Phraya Chakkraphat was a Chinese deity.
However, upon entering the shrine to pay my respects,
I realized that he was actually an Indian deity."
Shrine of Phraya Chakri
The deity Chao Pho Phraya Chakri is enshrined within a Chinese-style pavilion.
After paying respects to the revered Chao Pho Phraya Chakri, it was time to return home. However, I did not return empty-handed. I carried with me a mountain of joy.
This trip to visit the ancient city of U Thong was another memorable journey for me. Not only did I feel a deep appreciation for the rich cultural heritage, but I also developed a stronger love and pride in my Thai identity.
Had I known that visiting the ancient city of U Thong would be this wonderful, I would have visited long ago!
ม่อน บางม้า
Wednesday, February 26, 2025 3:38 PM
