Saraburi: A Gem of the Chao Phraya Basin

Saraburi: A Gem of the Chao Phraya Basin

Sankhaburi is a small district in Chai Nat province, a historic city with a long and rich history. Numerous valuable ancient sites remain for us to study and learn from.

Despite the scarcity of archaeological evidence, what remains in Saraburi is truly exceptional. It would be a shame to overlook its significance.

I will now explain the unique features of this place. But first, let me give you a brief history of the city of Saraburi.

Sankhaburi is an ancient city that has existed alongside various ancient kingdoms throughout history. It has been known by many different names, including "Mueang Phraek" during the Sukhothai period. Mueang Phraek was once a major city of the Sukhothai Kingdom, as evidenced by archaeological findings such as a bell-shaped stupa with a square base discovered at Wat Ton Dala.

During the Ayutthaya period, the city of Paek was variously referred to as "Paek Srirachadhiraj" or simply "Paek Sriracha." Based on the remaining artistic evidence, which belongs to the U Thong or Lopburi artistic style, it is believed that this city was once part of an ancient kingdom in the central plains region before the establishment of Ayutthaya.

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The Enduring Significance of Paek: A Historical Analysis

The city of Paek, known as Paek Sriracha during the Ayutthaya period, held significant importance throughout its history, particularly during the early Ayutthaya era. This significance is evidenced by the appointment of royal princes to govern the city, as documented in historical chronicles.

During the reign of King Naresuan, the chronicles record that Prince Ai was appointed to rule Suphan Buri, Prince Yi to Paek Sriracha, and Prince Sam to Chai Nat (present-day Phitsanulok). This appointment of royal princes to Paek Sriracha suggests its status as a significant city, subordinate only to Suphan Buri, which was entrusted to the crown prince.

The historical evidence indicates that Paek Sriracha played a crucial role in the Ayutthaya kingdom, serving as a vital administrative center and a testament to the enduring importance of the city throughout its history.

During the reign of King Borommatrailokkanat, when Sukhothai became fully integrated into the Ayutthaya Kingdom, the frontier town of Ayutthaya was moved further north to Songkhwae. Consequently, Phraek Si Racha, which had previously served as a frontier town between Sukhothai and Ayutthaya, declined in importance, becoming a fourth-class town in the late Ayutthaya period. Its name was also changed to "Saraburi".

Saraburi town was likely abandoned for a period during the second fall of Ayutthaya, as it lay on the Burmese army's route. It was during this time that a hero named "Khun San" emerged. He led the local villagers of Saraburi to join forces with the people of Bang Rachan in their fight against the Burmese army. Today, if you pass by the Saraburi district office, you will see a majestic monument of Khun San standing proudly in front of it.

Sankhaburi likely experienced a revival during the Thonburi and early Rattanakosin periods. However, it remained a small town until the reign of King Rama V, when the regional administration was reorganized under the Thesaphiban system. Sankhaburi was then incorporated into Nakhon Sawan Province. During the reign of King Rama VI, its status was further reduced to a district of Chainat Province, where it remains today.

Now, you must be curious about what makes Saraburi so special that I had to bring you all here to learn about it. Well, let's take a look at Saraburi together.

The first place I will take you to visit is Wat Mahathat. This temple is considered the heart of the city and houses the relics of the Buddha, which are enshrined in the main stupa of the temple, representing Mount Meru, the center of the universe according to the beliefs of Theravada Buddhism.

The most important structure of Wat Phra Mahathat is undoubtedly the Phra Mahathat Chedi, which has now collapsed to a square base. Judging from the size of the base, which is very large, it is estimated that the height of the Phra Mahathat when it was complete must have been quite considerable. It is assumed that the style of the chedi would not be far from that of the chedi of Wat Phra Kaew, which is another important temple outside the city walls, about 3 kilometers away, or perhaps similar to the chedi of Wat Yai Chaimongkol in Ayutthaya.

Near the Phra Maha Chedi, there is a royal viharn with nine bays (column intervals). This viharn is in ruins, with only eight octagonal pillars and a floor remaining. There are no roof structures. Inside the viharn, there are two large stucco Buddha statues: the main Buddha statue, known as Luang Pho Yai, and a smaller one, known as Luang Pho Yom.

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Highlights not to be missed when visiting Wat Mahathat include the Phra Prang Yod Klib Ma-Fuang, which is very rare. In Thailand, there are only two Phra Prangs in this style, the other being Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat in Lopburi Province. The top of the Phra Prang, which is shaped like a Ma-Fuang fruit, is adapted from the Khmer Prang. However, instead of building the top in layers that decrease in size, known as "Chan Cheing Batr," the top is built in sections that resemble a Ma-Fuang fruit. This Phra Prang is believed to have been built during the Lawo or U Thong period (19th Buddhist century before Ayutthaya was established as the capital). This is based on the construction technique of laying bricks without mortar (no mortar is used to connect the bricks) but instead using resin, which makes the bricks fit so tightly that they are almost one piece.

Another intriguing aspect of the prang is the presence of Buddha images in the "lila" posture. These "lila" Buddha images are a unique characteristic of Sukhothai art and are only found on a few pagodas in Thailand. They are particularly rare in the central region. Therefore, the discovery of "lila" Buddha images on this prang, along with several nearby octagonal pagodas, is quite remarkable.

Approximately one kilometer from Wat Maha That lies the ruins of Wat Ton Don Lai. This temple is unique for its lotus bud-shaped stupa, commonly known as a "Phum Khao Bin."

This unique stupa style is another characteristic of Sukhothai art. It is believed that this style of stupa first appeared during the reign of King Li Thai (1347-1364 CE). Therefore, the Phum Khao Bin stupa of Wat Ton Don Lai was likely built during the reign of King Li Thai at the earliest. The presence of this style of stupa at Wat Ton Don Lai helps to confirm that the city of Sawankhalok was likely once part of the Sukhothai Kingdom.

The first time I learned about the existence of a stupa in the shape of a "Phum Khao Bin" in the city of Saraburi, I was quite surprised. I never thought I would find a stupa of this style in the lower central region of Thailand. I always thought I would have to travel north to Sukhothai to see one. This stupa is the southernmost "Phum Khao Bin" stupa in Thailand, and it is not yet widely known among Thai people. Therefore, I believe that the "Phum Khao Bin" stupa of Wat Ton Don Lai is a hidden gem, which could be considered an "unseen in Thailand" attraction. What do you think?

From Wat Ton Don, I would like to take you to visit the third important temple, called Wat Phra Kaew. This temple is believed to have been originally named "Wat Pa Kaew". It was an important temple for monks of the Aranyawasi sect (forest monks) because it was located outside the city walls, similar to Wat Pa Kaew in Ayutthaya, which we now know as Wat Yai Chaimongkol.

The Temple of the Emerald Buddha houses a magnificent stupa, considered one of the most beautiful in Thailand, earning it the nickname "Queen of Pagodas." This brick stupa, built without mortar, suggests construction during the U Thong or Lavo periods.

This pagoda exhibits a unique design that distinguishes it from other pagodas in Thailand. It combines the five-tiered prang style in the lower section with an octagonal style in the upper section.

At first glance, this stupa resembles the five-spired castle-style stupa typical of Lanna art. This is because it consists of four small attendant stupas, called stupikas, which are placed above the four corners of the reliquary chamber. These stupikas are now mostly in ruins. The large central stupa is still intact. It is believed that Saraburi adopted the architectural influence of the five-spired castle-style stupa from Lanna through Sukhothai.

Five-tiered prang-style stupas are rarely found in the central region of Thailand. Therefore, the discovery of such a stupa at Wat Phra Kaew is a unique and valuable find, worthy of further study. Similarly, the discovery of a stucco Buddha statue in the "offering the eyes" posture (standing with both hands clasped together in front of the chest) within a niche is a rare occurrence in the central region, although it is more commonly found in the north.

In addition to the main stupa, Wat Phra Kaew boasts another unique feature: the principal Buddha image known as Luang Pho Chay, enshrined within the viharn. This sandstone Buddha statue is remarkable for the intricate carvings on its back (prishthanga), depicting Indra riding the three-headed elephant Airavata in reverse, resembling the motifs found on lintels in Khmer art. It is believed that when the Khmer empire declined, someone brought the carved sandstone slab from a nearby location and used it to create the Buddha statue. However, the artisans did not destroy the original carvings, leaving them as a valuable archaeological artifact for future generations to study.

In Saraburi, there are two more historical sites to explore: Wat Phraya Paek, an abandoned temple located adjacent to the wall of Wat Maha That. Within the temple walls, a large octagonal-shaped stupa remains relatively intact. Based on the temple's name, it is believed to have been built by the city's ruler.

Another temple, **Wat Song Phi Nong**, is located near Wat Ton Don Lai. This temple features two stupas standing close together, one large and one small, resembling siblings. The larger stupa, built in the U Thong/Lavo period, has a prang-shaped structure. Its most notable feature is the intricate stucco decorations adorning the reliquary chamber, which are still largely intact. The smaller stupa, octagonal in shape, lacks any remaining decorations.

Sankhaburi district is not only known for its delicious food, but also for its fertile land and abundant natural resources. This area is considered a major rice and water bowl in the Chao Phraya River basin, making it a hub for agricultural production. Among the renowned local products are large, sun-dried salted fish with a sweet and savory flavor, and the delectable white cucumber pomelo, known for its exceptional taste and affordability.

I have introduced the significant sites of the ancient city of Sawankhalok to a considerable extent. I believe you will agree with me that Sawankhalok, a small district that is home to an ancient city over a thousand years old, has a rich heritage and unique features that we can study and be proud of.

In conclusion, if you have the opportunity to visit Chai Nat Province or nearby provinces, do not miss the chance to experience the beauty and value of Sapphasiri, just like I did.