Readme before you journey
The Khlong Ku Mueang Canal Path
Western Influences in Traditional Thai Art
For those seeking to admire beautiful temples that remain relatively unknown to tourists, a visit to the Khlong Khu Mueang canal, located on the eastern side of the Grand Palace, is highly recommended.
The path along Khlong Khu Mueang canal, near the Giant Swing in the heart of Phra Nakhon district.
- Saranrom Park
- Wat Ratchabophit Sathit Maha Simaram Ratchawaramahawihan
- Pig Monument, Saphan Phak Khon
- Wat Ratchabophit Sathit Maha Simaram Ratchawaramahawihan
- Royal Cemetery
- Wat Suthat Thepwararam
- Giant Swing
- Three-way intersection
- Tiger God Shrine
- Wat Maha Ratcha Waramahawihan
A variety of public transportation options are available to reach Saranrom Park, where visitors can enjoy a leisurely stroll along the canal. From there, they can walk to the adjacent Wat Ratchabophit, before crossing the Pikun Bridge to Wat Ratchabopit. Finally, they can return to Saphan Hok and the Pig Monument.
This city moat was once the eastern moat of Thonburi. When the capital was moved to Bangkok, this canal became the inner moat of Rattanakosin, while the canal around the city became the new, expanded moat.
This area was therefore considered a strategically important location. Palaces for the king's sons and royal family members were built around it for security and ease of consultation on state affairs.
As Western ideas gained popularity during the reigns of King Rama IV and King Rama V, this area became home to significant government institutions, particularly ministries and agencies established through administrative reforms. These included the Ministry of Defence, the former Ministry of Foreign Affairs, the Ministry of Justice, and the Military Mapping Department.
It is therefore unsurprising that the inner areas of Ayutthaya in this region exhibit subtle Western influences. This is evident in the decorative elements of temples, bridges, and gardens, as well as in the shophouses lining the canals. From the Ban Mo district to the Sam Phraeng district, Western artistic elements are subtly incorporated.
Both Wat Ratchabophit Sathit Maha Simaram Ratchawaramahawihan and Wat Ratchapradit Sathit Maha Simaram Ratchawaramahawihan, royal temples of the Yuttikanikaya sect, also feature interior decorations with Western influences.
The fusion of Thai and Western art in the architecture of this area reflects the era of change in Siam and Bangkok a century ago, when Western arts and sciences were adopted to modernize the country and its bureaucracy, while still retaining the unique and beautiful characteristics of Thai culture.
Let's explore the Khlong Khu Mueang canal together. If you're ready, follow me!
The journey began in Sattahip, departing at five in the morning and arriving in Bangkok around eight o'clock. From there, I took a bus to Suan Saranrom Park. However, as there were no direct buses to the park from my drop-off point, I had to transfer to another bus to Yaowarat and then take another bus to Suan Saranrom. It wasn't too difficult, as the traffic was light and the sun wasn't too hot in the morning.
Driving into the city through Yaowarat, both sides of the road are lined with numerous shops and restaurants, making it an attractive place to visit and explore. However, the goal of this trip is not here. Let's put it aside for now. Our goal is even greater. Wait a moment, once we pass Yaowarat, we will be close.
Within 10 minutes, including traffic, you will arrive at "Suan Saranrom".
This Saranrom Park, I visited it more than six years ago. It's been quite a while. This time, the place remains the same, still as lush as before. In the morning, there are uncles, aunts, and grandparents who come to exercise and use the exercise equipment as usual.
Hello ... A short greeting with a smile sent your way.
Good morning, Uncle greeted with a smile.
The other aunt turned to smile and greet her as well.
Hello, are you here to exercise?
The man remarked, "The morning air is refreshing. Let's exercise a bit to feel invigorated."
May I take a picture to document this place? I am writing a book and will be reviewing the tourist attractions in this area.
Go ahead and take the picture.
Thank you. He expressed his gratitude and took a photo.
Thank you very much. Farewell.
I recall a small Thai-style house on the other side of the garden. Let's go take a look and see if it's still there and if anything has changed.
The surrounding atmosphere remains cool and refreshing, making it an ideal place to relax and unwind, just as before.
Monument of Her Majesty Queen Sunandha Kumariratana and Her Royal Highness Princess Karnabhorn Bejraratana
The monument at Wang Saranrom Palace is a beautiful five-spired castle made of marble.
The garden is quite shady, with a variety of trees and birds that are rarely seen elsewhere. There are many pavilions and ponds that make the garden look more lively.
The first botanical garden
This public park was originally a royal garden of the Saranrom Palace, which King Rama IV ordered to be built in 1866 on the site of the old Din building. It was intended to be his residence after he abdicated the throne to his son, but he passed away before its completion.
The construction was completed during the reign of King Rama V, who granted it as a residence for several of his royal siblings upon their initial return to the Grand Palace, before their own private palaces were completed.
This section was established in the early reign of King Rama V, around 1874. His Majesty commissioned Mr. Henry Alabaster, an American botanist, to design and create a botanical garden similar to those found abroad. Mr. Alabaster also ordered orchids, including Cattleya, to be displayed in the garden. Whenever the King visited other places and found rare plant species, he would order them to be planted in the Saranrom Garden.
This royal palace garden stands out from other sections. Originally designed in the Chinese style, it was transformed into a Western-style garden, complete with a pond, water fountain sculptures, pavilions, various flowering plants and ornamental trees, and small paths for strolling.
During the reign of King Rama VI, Saranrom Park served as a training ground for the Royal Pages and a center for new customs, culture, and ideas under the name "Tweepanya Samakhom." After the 1932 revolution, it became the site of the Saranrom Club of the People's Party and was eventually converted into a public park in 1960.
In addition to the riverside shade, this inner-city garden also houses the royal monuments of Her Royal Highness Princess Sunandha Kumariratana and Her Royal Highness Princess Karnabhorn Bejraratana, which King Rama V graciously ordered to be built as a place to enshrine their ashes and as a memorial to his love.
Before leaving the Saranrom Park, I stopped by the restroom.
While using the restroom, I overheard a group of three or four older gentlemen, who were there to exercise, engaged in a loud conversation. What was perplexing was not the content of their discussion, but rather the volume at which they spoke. Standing close together, they seemed to shout at each other, their voices booming throughout the room. (I couldn't help but think to myself) It was reminiscent of the boisterous Chinese tour groups I've encountered, who often engage in loud, almost shouting conversations.
Exiting Saranrom Park, we take a detour to the back. Our next destination: "Wat Ratcha Pradit".
"Wat Ratchabophit Sathit Maha Simaram Ratchawaramahawihan"
It is a royal temple of the first class, a royal monastery, which King Rama IV ordered to be built according to the ancient tradition that the capital city must have three important temples: Wat Mahathat, Wat Ratchaburana, and Wat Ratchapradit, such as in Sukhothai, Phitsanulok, and Ayutthaya.
During the Rattanakosin period, His Royal Highness Prince Maha Sura Singhanat, the Viceroy of the Front Palace, ordered the renaming of Wat Salak to Wat Phra Nipphanaram and then to Wat Phra Si Sanphet during the reign of King Rama I. However, as there was no Wat Mahathat in Bangkok, the name of Wat Phra Si Sanphet was changed to Wat Mahathat. His Royal Highness Prince Thepharirak, the son of Her Royal Highness Princess Sudarat, the elder sister of King Rama I, renovated Wat Lieb, which later became known as Wat Ratchaburana. As Wat Ratchaprathan was still missing, it was newly built to complete the ancient royal tradition and to dedicate it to the monks of the Thammayut Nikaya sect. This made Wat Ratchaprathan the first Thammayut Nikaya temple built for this sect, as other Thammayut Nikaya temples were converted from Mahanikai temples.
The Ratchapradithsathit Temple was built on land that was once a royal coffee plantation. Construction began in 1864. King Rama IV initially named it "Wat Ratchapradithsathit Sthit Thammayutikaram". Upon completion, the name was changed to "Wat Ratchapradithsathit Sthit Maha Simaram" to reflect its role as the primary location of the principal boundary stones. These stones, known as "sima", are inscribed with Pali and Thai incantations, authored by the king himself. A total of 10 stones were created, as announced in 1868.
The announcement regarding the correct name of Wat Ratchabophit: Some people have been calling the temple Wat Ratchabandit or Wat Songpradisth, which is incorrect. His Majesty has therefore instructed that the temple be called "Wat Ratchabophit" or "Wat Ratchabophit Sathit Mahasima Ram." After the temple was completed, His Majesty invited Phra Sasanasophon (Sa Pususuthewo, P.9), also known as Samanera Sa, who had passed the 9th level of the Pali examination while still a samanera, to be the abbot.
The first royal novice monk of the Rattanakosin period from Wat Bowonniwet Vihara, he became the abbot in 1865. The ordination ceremony for both the abbot and the new temple was held for three days.
I chose to visit today because it coincides with a Buddhist holy day. As I recall, the temple is typically closed on regular days, so I took this opportunity to make merit.
Food, snacks, drinks, flowers are ready.
At Wat Ratchabophit, the time for making merit is approximately 9-11 am. During the first part, the monks will perform morning prayers and chanting before offering food or alms. This allows sufficient time for preparation.
Surprisingly, the number of people who came to make merit was relatively low. During my previous visit, I counted less than ten people who came to offer food to the monks. Today, I counted around twenty people, which is still considered low compared to other temples.
Wat Ratchabophit is a royal temple. Most royal ceremonies or important ceremonies are held here.
Upon entering this place for the first time, I felt as if I had stepped into another world, a place unlike any other. The beauty of the surroundings was overwhelming, and I couldn't help but feel a sense of awe. A shiver ran down my spine, and I couldn't explain why, but I knew it was something special.
In my personal opinion, after visiting numerous temples across various provinces, excluding Wat Phra Si Rattana Satsadaram (Wat Phra Kaew), I believe this temple is the most impressive in Rattanakosin. I lack the words to adequately describe it; I encourage you to visit and experience it firsthand.
Wat Ratchabophit is a royal temple that does not have a main ordination hall (ubosot). Instead, it has a royal vihara (assembly hall) that is used for religious ceremonies. Therefore, the royal vihara is considered to be the ubosot of the temple.
In front of the main Buddha statue, there is a Buddha statue named Phra Nirantr, enshrined in a glass case. Inside the royal vihara, there are murals painted using the dust color painting technique. It is assumed that they were painted during the reign of King Rama V. The murals depict the twelve-month royal ceremony, reflecting the cultural characteristics of Thailand in the early Rattanakosin period in terms of religious ceremonies influenced by Buddhism and Brahmanism, Thai traditions, the dress of Thai and foreign people, and the way of life and architecture.
Based on my observations, some of the images depict the Lo Chinchin ceremony, the solar eclipse during the reign of King Rama IV, and other historical events.
A large white marble stupa in the Lanna style.
"Phra Jom Shrine" - A Khmer-style prang tower
A bronze statue of His Holiness the Supreme Patriarch (Sa Phussadevo) in a seated posture delivering a sermon, installed in front of the stone pagoda.
Today, I had the opportunity to encounter this group. I observed them strolling around the temple grounds while a professor or someone else was explaining the various aspects of the temple. I stood there listening for a while, and I believe it is commendable that young people are being exposed to such knowledge. Similarly, I recognize that there is still much for me to learn and explore.
Further details will be shared in the next session.
Let's continue our journey from Wat Ratchapradithsathit.
In front of Wat Ratchabophit, there is a monument to the pig, which is officially called the United Nations Monument.
The monument was erected by Prince Naris, Phraya Piphat Kosha (Celestino Xavier), and Phraya Ratchawangsan (Korn Hongsakul), all born in the year of the Pig, like Queen Saovabha Phongsri of King Rama V. It was built in 1913 to commemorate the Queen's 50th birthday and to provide the public with clean drinking water, making it the first public water fountain in Siam. A nearby bridge, also named after the year of the Pig, was constructed at the same time.
This monument, originally cast in metal, is now covered in cement plaster. The water offering basin is no longer present, but the monument remains a revered site for local residents.
In close proximity, another noteworthy attraction is the bridge over the canal, known as the "Saphan Pikuun".
"Six Bridges, a Dutch-style bridge"
Across from Saranrom Park, on the original Khlong Ku Muang canal, stands a peculiar bridge. This is the Saphan Hok, a six-sided bridge used around a century ago.
This wooden bridge, inspired by Dutch design, features a lifting mechanism similar to a drawbridge, allowing for easy passage of boats. Known as the "Wilanada Drawbridge," it was first constructed during the reign of King Rama IV in both Bangkok's Phra Nakhon and Thonburi districts. During the early Rattanakosin period, a total of eight such bridges existed.
Six Bridges, Kun Wing Bridge
Built during the reign of King Chulalongkorn, the bridge was originally a Dutch-style drawbridge that could be raised to allow ships to pass. This name has continued to be used, even though the bridge has been converted into a road bridge.
In 1982, the government initiated a project to preserve historical sites in commemoration of the history of Bangkok. As a result, the Saphan Hok Bridge was jointly restored and renovated to its original design. This restoration served as a memorial to the bicentennial anniversary of the Rattanakosin Era.
This bridge, built over a century ago, served as a connection between the two temples. Today, it falls under the jurisdiction of two police stations: the Phra Ratchawang Police Station and the Samran Rat Police Station.
Before crossing the bridge to the other side, I noticed someone lying in a hammock under a large tree nearby. It looked very comfortable. On a hot, sunny day like this, it would be a perfect place to take a nap. I walked along the canal to the other side and then circled back to the other side of the canal.
Crossing the canal to the opposite bank, where the majestic Wat Ratchabophit Sathit Maha Simaram Ratchawaramahawihan temple stands.
The original text is empty. Please provide the text you want me to translate.
The Royal Temple of Ratchabophit Sathit Maha Simaram Ratchawaramahawihan
The Ratchabophittharam Maha Simaram Ratchawaramahawihan Buddhist temple is the last royal temple built by a Thai monarch according to the ancient tradition of constructing a temple during each reign.
This temple was built as the first royal temple of King Rama V, one year after his ascension to the throne. It was intended to serve as the temple for his reign.
The Ratchabophit Temple is a Theravada Buddhist temple built in the style of the Ratchapradit Temple. It features a central stupa surrounded by a gallery similar to the Phra Pathom Chedi Temple, but on a smaller scale. It is considered the last royal temple built by a king according to the ancient tradition of constructing a temple for each reign.
The grand stupa, with its spherical form, rests on a base adorned with embossed five-colored glazed tiles. The entire structure is embellished with intricate tile patterns, earning the temple the nickname "Temple of Five-Colored Glazed Tiles." This reflects the popularity of benjarong porcelain during that era.
The principal Buddha image in the ordination hall is the Phra Buddha Angkirasa, a bronze statue gilded with gold. The gold used was the same that King Rama V wore in his youth. The statue weighs 180 baht. The Phra Buddha Angkirasa is seated in the diamond samadhi posture on a replica of the Nirantarai throne. The replica is made of bronze and gilded with gold.
While the exterior showcases a traditional Thai architectural style that exquisitely preserves high-class Thai art, the interior of the ubosot and wihan exhibit a Western-style decoration. The ceiling features Gothic art interspersed with golden vine patterns, a harmonious blend of Thai and Western artistic influences. The exterior door and window designs of the ubosot and wihan depict Western-style insignia, resembling royal decorations. Above the archway inside the ubosot, the emblem of King Rama V's reign is displayed, another example of Western-inspired heraldic design.
Inside the temple
In addition to the aesthetically pleasing Wat Ratchabophit, Wat Ratchapradit is another royal temple that is considered the pinnacle of Bangkok (personal opinion).
The Bencharong Monastery
- Due to the ongoing restoration work, old photos have been added to supplement the current ones. *
Royal Cemetery
Leaving Wat Ratchabophit, I glanced at my watch and realized it was almost noon. My stomach began to rumble, and I remembered a Vietnamese noodle shop across the street from the temple. However, it was closed as it was Sunday. I decided to look for something to eat at a nearby restaurant instead.
For lunch today, I enjoyed a delicious stir-fried noodle dish with vegetables. The noodles were perfectly chewy, and the pork was tender and flavorful. It was a satisfying and enjoyable meal.
Full of food, we continue walking. Where should we go next? What else is interesting around here? Let's think, let's think. What else is there... The Giant Swing.
Yes, the Giant Swing. And the temple next to it, right in front of the Giant Swing, is Wat Suthat. It's not far, just a short walk away.
Although I have been here before and often passed by car, I am unsure of the exact route to take on foot. Could you please advise me on the best way to reach my destination? I am particularly interested in knowing which alleyways to enter and exit to avoid unnecessary detours. Given the current heat, I would appreciate any guidance that could save me from walking in the sun for an extended period.
Walking past the shops, I stopped to ask the aunties for directions to the Giant Swing. The aunties kindly pointed me in the right direction.
As I walked along the small canal, I began to recognize the familiar surroundings. I remembered my aunt and uncle's instructions to follow the canal until the very end. With a growing sense of certainty, I continued my journey along the narrow waterway.
Upon entering, one can immediately sense that the water in this small canal is considerably clearer than the outer city moat. A multitude of fish, both small and large, can be observed.
After walking for a while, I encountered an elderly woman. I smiled and greeted her.
Hello, this canal has very clear water and many fish.
The water in this canal is clear, clearer than the main canal. This is a smaller canal, and the water inside is clear with many fish. Today, the shop next door is closed. Usually, there is a shop next door that feeds the fish. They have fish food and bread, so there are a lot of fish in this smaller canal.
Yes, there are many fish, all of them are big. The water is clear and there is no garbage.
Yes, the old lady said with a smile.
To reach the Giant Swing, should I walk along this canal?
Yes, just walk straight ahead. You will find it at the end of the canal.
Thank you, ma'am.
Continuing on, I spotted another elderly lady pruning a small ornamental tree.
Good morning, ma'am. What are you doing?
Oh, cut off the leaves. The leaves are not very pretty, so cut them off a bit.
What is the name of this tree? I'm familiar with this tree, this pattern (I can't remember the name of the tree). I like this pattern. The pattern looks like the pattern of a hawk, or the feathers of a chicken or some kind of bird.
Hmm, I can't remember what kind of tree it was, auntie. Just a while ago, someone else came and asked to take a picture of it too.
I find it quite peculiar. The pattern is beautiful. May I take a picture of it?
Go ahead, feel free.
One picture, please. Thank you very much, ma'am.
Let's continue. The canal ends just ahead.
Although the giant swing is nearby, there is a temple gate here. It might be better to visit Wat Suthat first.
Wat Suthat Thepwararam Ratchawaramahawihan
To witness the most prominent and magnificent Buddhist temple in Thailand that embodies the Triภูมิ cosmology, one must visit Wat Suthat Thepwararam.
Wat Suthat was established in 1762 during the reign of King Rama I to serve as the central temple of the capital city. The temple grounds were raised by filling them with a significant amount of soil, and the Phra Si Sakyamuni Buddha statue was brought from Wat Mahathat in Sukhothai to be enshrined as the principal Buddha image in the main wiharn. Due to the statue's imposing size, the temple is also known as "Wat Phra To" (Temple of the Big Buddha).
This temple is situated in the heart of the capital city, which has been the site of the Phra Prang, Wat Maha That, enshrining the holy relics of the Buddha, since ancient times. The temple is conceived as a microcosm of the universe according to Buddhist cosmology. The various buildings within the temple complex represent Mount Meru, the central mountain of the universe, with Wat Suthat symbolizing the peak. The name "Suthat" itself resonates with "Sudassana," the name of the city of Indra in the Tavatimsa heaven, located atop Mount Meru.
Inside the ordination hall
After paying respects at the Buddha image in the ubosot, proceed to the wihan.
(Undergoing restoration)
Pay respects to the Buddha and pray for good fortune.
(Image added from a previous visit)
Inside the temple
Wall Painting
This is a simple and concise translation of "จิตรกรรมฝาผนัง" in English. It maintains a formal academic style and avoids personal pronouns, colloquialisms, and unnecessary information.
The Royal Chapel is likened to the celestial realm of Tavatimsa, with the Phra Sri Sakyamuni Buddha as the equivalent of Indra. The four cardinal shrines represent the palaces of the directional deities. The six-tiered Chinese-style stupa, or chedi, symbolizes the six realms of the Kamadhatu. The stone Chinese pavilion is the celestial chariot of Indra. The elevated circumambulatory base represents Mount Meru, while the surrounding gallery symbolizes the seven mountain ranges. The southern ubosot is akin to Jambudvipa, the continent where all Buddhas are born. Consequently, the interior of the ubosot is adorned with paintings of Pratyekabuddhas.
King Rama I ordered the construction of Wat Suthat, intending it to be a prominent temple at the heart of Rattanakosin. This is evident in the memoirs of Princess Narinthra Thewi, who stated that...
"...The royal decree ordered the construction of a temple in the middle of the city, as high as Wat Phanan Choeng. Phra Phirenthrathep was sent to receive the Great Buddha from the city of Sokhothai, and it was slowly brought down to the capital, where it was enshrined for seven days..."
After paying respects to the Buddha and taking pictures, I went around to take more pictures.
"Almost there, just a little further, heaven is not far away, just step up."
It's like walking up the stairs at home, only the steps are higher.
A young man's voice speaks to someone, seemingly offering encouragement to keep going.
In this heartwarming scene, two young men assist their elderly relative as they ascend the stairs to pay their respects at a temple.
Alternatively, if you wish to experience a 360-degree view of the temple, simply scan the QR code (as shown in the image).
Take a few more pictures.
Thank you for the documents "The Majesty of the Past: Wat Suthat Thepwararam" and various other publications.
Exiting Wat Suthat, one encounters the Sao Chingcha, a giant swing.
Giant Swing in the Heart of Rattanakosin Island
Besides the Grand Palace and the Front Palace, the community area that is as old as Rattanakosin is the Sao Chingcha area.
Since the royal decree to relocate the administrative center to the Bangkok side, this area has been considered the heart of the city. King Rama I aimed to develop it to resemble the prosperous Ayutthaya period. He therefore ordered the construction of Wat Suthat Thepwararam and other religious structures following ancient traditions, to serve as sacred sites for the capital and ensure the stability of the kingdom. This area thus became a center of both Buddhist and Brahmanical faith.
The Sao Chingcha area is a bustling hub for religious paraphernalia, with shops lining both sides of Bamrung Mueang Road from the Sao Chingcha intersection to Mahachai Road. The production of these goods is also nearby. If you take a stroll through the backstreets of this area, you might see artisans diligently polishing and refining statues of deities, workers meticulously sewing saffron robes and other monastic necessities, and perhaps even skilled craftsmen shaping alms bowls in the Baan Bat neighborhood, showcasing the intricate craftsmanship involved in these traditional practices.
Another street with an interesting history is Thanon Dinsor. This street was once a hub for the production of fresh pencils. Thai pencils were made from a mixture of clay, chalk, and turmeric powder, and were used to write on slate boards. Today, pencils and chalk are no longer made there, but the street is still bustling with a variety of delicious restaurants that extend to the nearby area of Sam Phraeng. This area developed as a result of road construction and was the site of the old palaces of three princes during the reign of King Rama V. The area therefore has temples, shrines, shophouses, and old noblemen's houses to see. There are also shops and a variety of sweet and savory foods to choose from. A walk through these two old districts is therefore much more flavorful.
A delightful way to begin this journey would be to pay respects to the revered Phra Si Sakyamuni Buddha at Wat Suthat and the significant deities at the Brahman Shrine. Afterwards, one could recharge with delicious treats from Dinsor Road or the Samphraeng area. Finally, a visit to pay homage to Chao Pho Suea and Luang Pho Phra Ruang would complete the experience.
The central swing pole in the heart of the capital city.
The most prominent landmark in this district is undoubtedly the Giant Swing, a historical monument that has stood tall since the city's foundation.
King Rama I ordered its construction in 1784, two years after the establishment of Bangkok as the capital. Brahmins from Nakhon Si Thammarat were invited to perform the rituals, as the Brahmins in Ayutthaya had been scattered after the fall of the city.
The Giant Swing was used as a venue for the Triyambhavai and Tripavai ceremonies, which are Brahmin New Year's Day traditions to welcome the arrival of Shiva and Vishnu to the world. The swing ceremony is held around the second lunar month, which is December or early January of each year. According to legend, Uma Devi was worried that the world would come to an end, so she made a bet with Shiva. She asked the serpent king to stretch himself between the Puthra trees in the river and swing his body while Shiva stood on one leg in a squatting position. When the serpent king swung his body, Shiva's feet did not fall, indicating that the world he created was strong and stable. Shiva therefore won the bet.
The swinging ceremony continued until 1934, when it was discontinued. The Brahmins then used only a small swing pole located in the temple for the ceremony instead. Over the past two hundred years, the swing pole has been renovated several times. The current pole was completed in 1987, using two golden teak trees from Phrae Province to replace the old, dilapidated pole.
The nearby temple houses important deities of Hinduism: Brahma, Shiva, Vishnu, and Ganesha.
In the past, the area behind the temple was a large Brahmin community, with hundreds of Brahmin families residing there. However, since the change of government in 1932, when the king's role was diminished, the royal Brahmins have also seen their role reduced, and the community has dispersed.
From Wat Suthat, step out in front of the "Sao Chingcha", take a picture or two of the Sao Chingcha (under renovation). A younger person asked me to help them look at their phone while taking a picture of the Sao Chingcha. I gave them some advice, and they asked me to help them take a picture with the Sao Chingcha (sure, I can do that).
Before the younger sibling asked to follow along to capture the scene, they walked together from the front of the swing pole, along the path of the Deva Shrine, the three-way intersection, the Shrine of the Tiger God, and the Wat Mahannapharam.
The interior has not yet been photographed or researched. (To be continued)
Along the way to Phraeng, there are many shops on both sides of the road, all of which are worth stopping by and having a bite to eat. However, due to time constraints, I can only share photos of some of the shops I passed by today.
Three Crossings
If you want to experience the atmosphere of old Bangkok, try walking around the Sam Phraeng area on Tanao Road, near Bamrung Mueang Road. You will feel like you are in the era of King Rama V.
This area is known as Sam Phraeng because three roads intersect, connecting Thanon Tanao and Thanon Atsadang. This creates three consecutive junctions, which the locals call "Sam Phraeng" or "the three intersections."
The Sam Phraeng community was a thriving commercial district during the reigns of King Rama V and King Rama VI. The construction of Bamrung Mueang Road and the subsequent development of shophouses along both sides of the road attracted merchants to set up shop and sell imported goods. The area became popular among the royal family, government officials, and ladies of the court, who frequented the shops and the prestigious theatre.
Unfortunately, only a small portion of the once-flourishing palaces of the three royal princes remains visible today. The palace of Prince Sarp Savat Sukhakit only has the front gate archway remaining, as a major fire in 1967 destroyed the entire building, including the palace itself. As for the Worawan Palace, only a portion of the main building remains. However, the old Western-style row houses in this area are still in relatively good condition. Although Sam Phraeng is no longer a bustling commercial district attracting people with luxury goods, the atmosphere of the past remains, along with exquisite restaurants that continue to invite tourists to come and savor their flavors.
The Gate of the Palace of Surasap Saphasutthakit
Three-pronged approach: knowledge, land, and people
Navigating between these various attractions is effortless, as they are all situated in close proximity. Simply follow the path and you will arrive at your destination in no time.
Following a winding path, we came upon a large building with a unique architectural design.
Some shops are closed today, while others are not yet open for business (it is uncertain whether some shops may open in the evening or night). There is a wide variety of food available in this area. Feel free to visit and explore at your leisure.
Let's continue our journey and head towards the Tiger God Shrine.
The Tiger God Shrine: A Place of Reverence and Intriguing Rituals
The Tiger God Shrine stands as a testament to the enduring power of gratitude in Thai culture. Dedicated to the Tiger God, a deity revered for his embodiment of filial piety, the shrine attracts devotees seeking blessings and guidance.
The rituals practiced at the shrine are as unique as they are meaningful. Offerings of raw meat and incense are presented to the deity, accompanied by prayers for prosperity and protection. The burning of joss paper, symbolizing the release of worldly desires, adds a layer of spiritual significance to the experience.
The Tiger God Shrine offers a glimpse into the rich tapestry of Thai beliefs and practices. Its unique rituals and unwavering focus on gratitude make it a place of cultural and spiritual significance.
During the Chinese New Year, Tanau Road experiences heavy traffic congestion due to the influx of people visiting the Tiger God Shrine to offer prayers and seek blessings.
Particularly, those born in the Year of the Tiger will come to pay respects to the Tiger God here to seek blessings for auspiciousness and advancement in their careers. They will offer raw pork, earth eggs, and sticky rice as offerings.
The Tiger God Shrine, also known as "Tua Lau Eia" by the Chinese, is an ancient shrine revered and frequently visited by the Chinese community. Originally built by the Teochew Chinese on Bamrung Mueang Road, the shrine was relocated to its current location on Thanon Tanon during the reign of King Rama V due to road expansion. The Tiger God Shrine houses "Sian Tian Siang Ti," the Tiger God, who is believed to bestow career advancement. Business owners and managers, in particular, believe that worshipping the Tiger God enhances their leadership abilities through the awe-inspiring power of the tiger.
The interior of the Tiger God Shrine is not accessible to the public, and photography is prohibited. It is unclear whether the traditional Chinese opera performances still take place within the shrine. However, based on the sounds heard from outside, it is likely that they continue.
Stopping by to support Grandma's bakery, I learned that she has been selling her treats for a long time, a tradition passed down through generations since World War II. (This is according to Grandma herself.)
The area boasts a wide variety of delicious food options on both sides of the street. While some restaurants permit photography, others do not. It is essential to pay attention to signage and respect individual establishment policies.
Adjacent to the Tiger God Shrine, across the street and slightly offset, stands the Wat Mahannapharam.
Wat Maha Ratcha Waramahawihan
I had the opportunity to visit once before, and I took this chance to pay my respects and ask for blessings again.
Wat Maha Ratcha Waramahawihan
While many believe Wat Traimit is the only temple in Bangkok with a golden Buddha statue, Wat Mahapruttharam on Tanao Road also houses a large golden Buddha statue in its vihara.
Wat Maha Ratchaparam is an ancient temple built during the reign of King Rama III. It was intended to house the revered Luang Pho Phra Ruang statue from Sukhothai as its principal Buddha image. However, due to the arduous journey, the statue could not be transported in time, necessitating the creation of a new Buddha image. Upon the arrival of the original Luang Pho Phra Ruang, it was instead enshrined in the viharn.
The Phra Ruang Buddha statue has a lap width of 2.30 meters, slightly smaller than the Phra Buddha Maha Suwannakhet at Wat Traimit, which has a lap width of 2.50 meters. Due to its sacredness, local residents frequently make offerings and prayers to the Phra Ruang Buddha, often presenting it with rattan balls and kites. Some believe that the rattan ball, with its many eyes, symbolizes omniscience, while the kite, soaring high in the sky, represents the elevation of one's fortune.
In addition, Wat Mahannapharam is also the first government school in Thailand. King Rama V graciously ordered the establishment of a royal school for the general public in 1884, named Wat Mahannapharam School. This marked the first time that education was made available to the general public. Wat Mahannapharam is therefore the first temple school under the new education plan. A statue of King Rama V stands within the temple grounds.
All of this story.
Following my desire to experience something new and different from my usual travels, I chose to explore Bangkok. This decision stemmed from the city's rich history as a significant chapter in the Rattanakosin era. Its proximity and accessibility make it an ideal location for learning, whether through books, online media, or personal exploration.
The vastness of Thai history makes it impossible to fully comprehend in a short period. However, with dedication, one can gain a significant understanding, even if not exhaustive. It is crucial to begin the journey of learning, as ignorance will persist without initiative.
Other countries actively encourage their citizens to learn about their own history. Since Siam has never been a colony of any other nation, why wouldn't its people take the initiative to learn about their own past? In the future, when they have children and grandchildren, they will be able to pass on this knowledge. It would be a shame if they were unable to answer their children's and grandchildren's questions, as it would reflect poorly on them.
I hope the information and stories in this review post will be of some use.
We apologize for any inaccuracies or omissions in the information provided.
Thank you to everyone who has been following, and hello.
animal
Thank you for the information from the book "Bangkok's Hidden Corners".
zoonvors
Wednesday, February 26, 2025 3:45 PM
