Samsen: A Path of Faith (Exploring Bangkok)

Pay Homage to the Shrine of Yai Sam Sen, Explore the Ancient Ubosot, Khmer Houses, and Nguyen Houses

Start your day with a taste of Vietnamese cuisine at the Ban Yen Market in Samsen, followed by a visit to the Christian church in the Ban Yen community, also known as "Wat Yen".

Before paying respects at Wat Thewarat Kunchorn Warawiharn and Wat Rachathiwat Ratchawara Wiharn, conclude your day by learning about banknotes at the Bank of Thailand Museum in the Wang Bang Khun Phrom Palace, a magnificent palace on the banks of the Chao Phraya River.

Originally planned, but due to time constraints, we had to skip the Vietnamese breakfast and the Bank of Thailand Museum (Wang Bang Khun Phrom).

From a rice field area during the Ayutthaya period, the Samsen community has developed into an inner Bangkok area with many historical sites.

In addition to having the oldest church in Bangkok, Samsen also has temples with beautiful art and palaces with magnificent European-style architecture.

The Samsen community was founded during the reign of King Narai the Great of Ayutthaya. It was a small fishing village inhabited by people of Portuguese descent who lived on land granted by the king. They built a church for their religious ceremonies, which was the first Catholic church in the city of Bangkok.

During the reign of King Rama I, he ordered the Khmer people who fled the rebellion in Cambodia to settle in this community because they shared the same religion. Over time, this village became known as Ban Khmer.

A little further north from Ban Khmer is the community of the Vietnamese, or Vietnamese people who fled the war from their country to live here since the reign of King Rama I.

Later, during the reign of King Rama III, more Vietnamese Christians who fled religious persecution immigrated. The king, out of compassion, used his own money to buy land and grant it to them as a place to live, and also built a temporary bamboo church for them to use for religious ceremonies. Later, a brick and mortar church was built and named "Wat Saint Francis Xavier", or commonly known as "Wat Yen".

During the reign of King Rama V, the Samsen area was greatly developed when the Dusit Palace was built on the Samsen plain. This led to the digging of canals and the construction of roads to connect the transportation routes from the Grand Palace to this palace. In addition, the king also donated his own money to buy land to build palaces for his royal children and consorts, resulting in the construction of other public utilities such as waterworks, electricity, and tram lines. The Samsen community therefore expanded rapidly with many nobles and officials moving to build houses near the palaces and residences of various royal family members, becoming the inner city it is today.

Start at the Thewarat Market ..

I have been here once before, but it was a long time ago, and I don't remember the way to Wat Thewarat Kunchorn Warawiharn very well. I asked for directions along the way.
When I reached the traffic light intersection, I turned left and walked into the alley for a while. I started to recognize the way. Follow me, follow me.

Wat Thewaratchakunchararam Warawihan
This is a third-class royal temple, classified as a Warawihan. Originally a temple of the people, it was built during the Ayutthaya period. Its original name was "Wat Samo Kraeng". It is an ancient temple that existed before the Rattanakosin period. King Rama I renovated it, and later, Prince Pitsuksamen, the son of King Rama II, restored and renovated it.

Wat Thewaratchakuncharot received the royal consecration of the Visungkaam Sima in 1857. The temple is called Wat Smo Kraeng because of the abundance of Smo Kraeng trees. However, some scholars believe that the word "Smo" is a corruption of the Khmer word "Tmor" (Thmor), which means "stone." The temple was probably originally called Tmor Kraeng, meaning "hard stone" or "strong stone."

During the reign of King Rama IV, the temple was designated a royal monastery and given the name "Wat Thewaratchakuncharot Worawihan." The king added the word "Thewaratcha" to the name of Prince Kunchar, the original name of Prince Phitsanulok, who restored the temple.

Upon reaching the temple, I found the gate closed and was unsure whether I could enter. I inquired with an elderly woman nearby, who informed me that I needed to walk around to the other side, where there was an entrance. Without hesitation, I followed the path and found the gate open, as the woman had indicated.

The chapel is located here. Take off your shoes and enter the chapel to pay respect to the Buddha. Yes, this is the place I have been to before. I remember the Buddha statue. The inside of the chapel is quite quiet. There are not many people here today. I pay respect to the Buddha and ask for blessings. I will take some pictures around the area.

After capturing some photos, people started to come up to pay their respects to the Buddha. There were more and more people now. After taking the photos, I went out to continue exploring the area.

The sentence is already in English and does not require translation.

The Quadrangular Pavilion

The Quadrangular Pavilion houses ancient Buddha statues and serves as a venue for chanting, meditation, and making offerings to monks. Construction began on September 4, 1993. The pavilion measures 12.40 meters on each side and stands 1.40 meters above ground level. The floor and interior walls are adorned with marble. Construction was completed in 2001.

Approaching the building next door, I noticed an open door. Unsure of its purpose, I drew closer and discovered a sign reading "Sak Thong Museum, Wat Thewaratchakunchararam Worawihan." As I approached, an elderly woman emerged from the building.

Excuse me, sir. May I enter here?
Oh, yes, you may. Please come in.
Thank you.

"Golden Tattoo Museum, Wat Thewarat Kunchorn Worawihan"

This is a gold tattoo museum. Let's go in and see what's there. Taking off my shoes and opening the door, I was greeted by a smiling staff member who invited me in and thanked me for visiting. The entrance fee to support the museum is 30 baht. Okay. You are welcome to look around. There are two floors, you can go up and see the top floor. Thank you very much. It's quite cool in here. I was hot when I walked in, but it's very cool in here. I can't wait to go upstairs and have a look.

The sentence is already in English and does not require translation.

Admission fee: 30 baht

Upon reaching the upper floor, one is greeted by a breathtaking sight. The interior is adorned with magnificent teakwood, including large, gleaming golden teak panels. The floor is polished to a high shine, reflecting the beautifully arranged lights. This space serves as an exhibition hall, showcasing wax figures of the 19 Supreme Patriarchs of the Rattanakosin Era.

The museum displays wax figures of the 19 former Supreme Patriarchs of the Rattanakosin Era.

Upon closer inspection, the wax figures of the Supreme Patriarchs, from the first to the present (with the exception of the 20th, who is still alive), are remarkably lifelike. I raised my hands in respect and proceeded to photograph and document each figure in turn.

The next room to the right is a wax figure exhibition of 20 eminent monks of the Rattanakosin period. Visitors can approach the figures, pay their respects, and take photos and notes about each individual.

The sentence is already in English and does not require translation.

The museum exhibits wax figures of 20 eminent monks of the Rattanakosin period.

The upper level of this building is entirely constructed from golden teakwood, truly a magnificent sight. I highly recommend visiting this place if you have the opportunity. It showcases the stories of past Supreme Patriarchs and revered monks. The lower level features a vast collection of historical artifacts, including a section dedicated to His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama IX). The collection includes rare and beautiful historical photographs.

The sentence is already in English and does not require translation.

Remembering our beloved King.

Photos of the King and stories

After capturing the sights and sounds of Wat Thewarat Kunchorn, I continued on to Wat Ratchanives. I vaguely remembered it being nearby, but unsure of the exact route, I decided to inquire as usual. However, during my search, I noticed a path leading towards what appeared to be the Chao Phraya River. Intrigued, I decided to take a detour. As I walked, I passed by local houses, some of which seemed to offer homestay accommodations. This sparked my interest, making it a potential option for future visits.

The pier behind the temple offers fish release and a view of the Rama VIII Bridge.

The sentence is already in English and does not require translation.

Pavilion for releasing fish

At the end of the pier, there is a pavilion where visitors can feed fish. This spot offers a scenic view of the Rama VIII Bridge. The cool breeze and the abundance of fish make it a popular spot for feeding. The fish gather in large numbers, eagerly consuming the food. They are of a moderate size, and the overall atmosphere is serene and refreshing.

There are a lot of fish.

From here, our next destination is Wat Ratchanives.

We will walk out to the beginning of the alley and start again. It's not far, just one bus stop away. After a short walk, we will reach a three-way intersection. Turn left, there is a sign in front of the alley. The distance to the temple is the same as the distance we walked to Wat Thewaratchakuncharoen. Let's continue walking.

Entrance to Wat Ratchanives

Entering the alley, the left and right sides are quite different. The left side is the temple area, which has no monks. The right side has monks residing and nuns. The place looks shady and clean. Walking to the front of the church, I remember the story of my previous visit.

Wat Ratchabophit Sathit Maha Simaram Ratchawaramahawihan, originally named Wat Samorai, was established in 1767. It was originally a forest monastery (Aranyawasi) and later renamed "Wat Ratchabophit Sathit Maha Simaram Ratchawaramahawihan" by King Rama IV. The name change reflected the king's wish for senior members of the Chakri Dynasty to ordain and practice their religious duties at the temple, including himself. The temple holds the status of a second-class royal temple and is part of the Thammayut Nikaya sect of Buddhism.

The ordination hall of Wat Ratchabophit Sathit Maha Simaram Ratchawaramahawihan, which is the origin of the Thammayut Nikaya sect, differs from other ordination halls of the same era. It resembles the architecture of Angkor Wat in Cambodia, with Khmer influences evident in the pediment, roof, structural pillars, and doors and windows.

Access to the church is currently restricted until 13:00. While waiting, I took some pictures and walked towards the Four Seasons Palace. The atmosphere today is no different from when I visited several years ago. It remains quiet, and the condition is still somewhat the same. However, the large trees have shed their leaves, perhaps waiting for the time to sprout new ones.

The Bodhi tree of Sri Lanka was planted by King Phra Phutthaloetla Naphalai (Rama II).

It wasn't yet 1 p.m. when I returned to wait in front of the church. Another young person arrived with their mother. We chatted and learned that they were there to inquire about ordination. They had contacted a monk, but he was not present and had gone out. So, we sat and waited there. We talked about where we were from, where we were going, and what we were doing. I took some photos and briefly recounted the history of this temple. We shared stories about the surrounding area and which nearby temples were worth visiting. This information will be helpful for my next visit.

At 1 p.m., I initially thought someone would come to open the door. However, a monk opened it from the inside (he had been inside the whole time). After entering, I paid my respects to the Buddha and asked for blessings. I also took some photos. The place remains unchanged from my previous visit. I will share more details about that in the captions.

The monk advised me to observe the elephants. He said that if I walk slowly, they will turn their heads to follow me. This is similar to the way Westerners depict elephants in paintings and sculptures. (If you have the opportunity, try observing this yourself. You will see that the elephants really do follow you with their eyes.)

The sentence is already in English and does not require translation.

The sentence is already in English and does not require translation.

Wall Painting

The murals on the walls of the ordination hall of Wat Ratchabophit Sathit Maha Simaram Ratchawaramahawihan depict the 13 chapters of the Vessantara Jataka. They were designed by His Royal Highness Prince Narisara Nuwattiwong and painted by Professor Rigoli, an Italian artist who also painted the murals in the Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall. The murals are painted in fresco and are considered to be very beautiful.

Left: A sketch by His Royal Highness Prince Narisara Nuwattiwong, resembling Angkor Wat. This view clearly shows the structure from this angle.

Right: A comparison image. The front of the old chapel, as shown in the picture, has a transverse roof.
After the front building was demolished.

The pavilion of the raft chapel (Luang Pho said it used to be in the water).
A sketch by His Royal Highness Prince Narisara Nuwattiwong.

Four Seasons Palace

The Replica of the Stone Alms Bowl Throne

The Replica of the Stone Alms Bowl Throne was created by King Ramkhamhaeng the Great in 1835 CE. In 1833 CE, King Rama IV, during his pilgrimage to the north, discovered the throne in Sukhothai and ordered its transfer to Wat Ratchadhiwas for safekeeping.

In 1911 CE, King Rama VI had the throne moved to its current location in the Grand Palace Museum.

The Sala Karn Parien of Wat Ratchadhiwasa Vihara is a building that King Rama V graciously ordered to be built entirely of golden teakwood, and it was constructed at the same time as the ordination hall.
This Sala Karn Parien was once hailed as the largest and most beautiful golden teakwood building in Southeast Asia.

After capturing the scene, the next destination was the Vietnamese community. As I had been there before, I knew it was located behind the temple near the city wall. As I walked along, I passed by the community and soon arrived. Along the way, I saw a group of children standing at the end of the pier taking pictures. There was a flock of pigeons in front of them, about twenty to thirty birds. I thought to myself that the children would probably try to scare the birds. I walked towards them quickly to startle the birds and wait for the perfect shot. And just as I thought, one, two, three, a couple of children walked quickly to make the birds fly. I managed to capture the moment as I wanted. It was beautiful.

The children walked towards me, saying, "I knew they would wait to take pictures." When they got closer, I showed them the pictures, and they laughed a lot. After laughing, we continued walking. We took a shortcut to see the Vietnamese village. I remembered that Vietnamese houses have something different from Thai houses on the balcony or roof. This time, I walked around many times, entering and exiting alleys, but I couldn't find it. I met an aunt who was doing her nails, but instead of asking about the house, I asked for directions to the old church. The aunt pointed and gave me directions. I thanked her and continued walking.

The path to the Vietnamese village, I remember it must be this way.

Years ago, I saw this sign here. The last time it was a vinyl banner, but this time it's a future board. The type of sign is different, but the message on it is the same.

"Giving life will give you a longer life...
You will be happy anyway because you have good intentions."

This is a small entrance to the community. There is a small gate here (with a sign indicating opening and closing times).

The Conception Church

The Conception Church is a Roman Catholic church located on land granted by King Narai the Great to the Siam Mission. The area was originally inhabited by the Kuoy or Kuy people.

The first church, built in 1674, was known as Wat Noi (Small Temple). In 1785, with the arrival of Portuguese and Khmer residents, the church became known as the Church of the Khmer Village.

During the reign of King Rama III in 1834, Vietnamese refugees sought refuge in Siam. The King granted them land near the church to build their homes and provided funds from his personal treasury to construct another church, known as the Church of the Vietnamese Village. The current church was built in 1836 by Bishop Pallegoix, the then-abbot.

After a short walk, I arrived at the church. Today, there were quite a few cars parked in front of the church.

A local resident was watering plants when I greeted them and inquired about the church's closure. They informed me that it was closed and that I could return later. As I was leaving, I noticed a pavilion across from the church. The resident pointed it out and mentioned that it was built specifically for a royal visit by the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama IX). They added that a red carpet was laid from the pavilion to the church entrance. I was initially unsure when the visit occurred, but they clarified that it was a long time ago. Curious, I walked towards the pavilion, passing by houses until I reached the waterfront. The pavilion had a sign that read "Royal Reception Pavilion." It served as a temporary structure for the King's visit.

At the end of the trail, there is a pavilion built to welcome His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama IX), who once visited this location.

Royal Pavilion

Landing after the community

This is likely the first old church in Bangkok.

After finishing, we continued walking to the next location, the Juan Church, navigating through the narrow alleys and streets.

On the way to another church, which the villagers call the front church.

The old-style Vietnamese houses I was looking for were nowhere to be found. The characteristics that would have identified them as Vietnamese houses were absent, and I searched and looked for a long time but couldn't find a single one.

Feeling hungry after not eating anything since morning, I spotted a small shop that seemed to be selling Pad Thai. Without hesitation, I ordered a Pad Thai to satisfy my hunger.

While waiting for my pad thai, I chatted with the owner of the shop, asking for directions to the church and community. The owner was very helpful and gave me detailed instructions. As my pad thai was finished, I realized this was exactly what I needed. A small shop, no need for anything fancy, just simple and delicious food. Plus, I got to chat with the friendly owner and gather all the information I was looking for.

After recharging, we continued our journey. It was already past noon. After walking for a while, we arrived at another old church (known by the locals as the "Outer Church").

The sentence is already in English and does not require translation.

After walking for a while, we reached the church that the villagers call...

Yes, the interior is as beautiful as ever. Today there is another event, and there will be a wedding soon. I would like to go inside and take some more pictures.

St. Francis Xavier Church

King Rama III graciously allowed approximately 1,350 Vietnamese Christians, who were fleeing religious persecution and war in Vietnam, to seek refuge in Thailand. In 1834, they settled near Wat Som Kling. The King granted them funds to purchase nearby land for housing and to build the first church, a temporary structure made of bamboo, named Saint-François-Xavier (pronounced in French). This first church lasted only three years, as it was destroyed by a severe storm in 1837. Father Courvezy, the head of the Siam Mission at that time, funded the construction of a new wooden church. Later, in 1853, Father Pierre Marie Gibarta, who was appointed parish priest, realized that the second wooden church was too small for the congregation. He began soliciting donations and started building the current large brick-and-mortar church, following European architectural styles. The construction took approximately 10 years. A grand celebratory mass was held by Bishop Joseph Dupont in the newly built Church of St. Francis Xavier in 1867. Today, the church is pronounced in English as St. Francis Xavier Church.

Epistle to the Saints

As the wedding ceremony drew to a close, I exited the church and encountered an elderly woman who had been seated there moments before. She smiled warmly at me.

The grandmother was just seen over there. Oh, she's here to work. Looking beside her, there's a cart with nail tools. The grandmother does house calls. She said that old houses, Vietnamese houses, are rare now. Some have been renovated, and some old houses have been replaced with concrete houses. Old Vietnamese houses with fences and balconies have been replaced with new ones, and there are hardly any left.

"That's what I'm looking for. There really aren't any left," the grandmother said. "Wait a minute, there's another one at the very end of the alley on the left. The big tree, right by the big tree."
"Okay, I'll try walking around again." After walking for a while, I found a big tree with a green house nearby. It was quite old, and there were four or five villagers sitting under the tree talking.
"Excuse me, I'm looking for an old Vietnamese house. Do you know if there are any around here?"
The uncles who were sitting there looked at each other and said, "Oh, no. The old ones have all been rebuilt." (We explained what we wanted to see.) The aunt said, "This is it. It's old, from World War II. The Japanese came and occupied this house. Judging from its condition, it's really quite old." The aunt said she would check to see if anyone was living there. Inside the house, there were wooden boards this thick (she gestured with her hand). Judging from the condition and the atmosphere around it... "Oh, it's okay. I can take a picture from here." I raised my hand in a wai to ask permission to take a picture. "Okay, I'll just take one picture." Thank you, auntie." And I walked back to the Vietnamese temple from earlier.

An old Vietnamese house, likely the last remaining one in the area.

The general appearance of the house resembles a traditional Thai dwelling. However, during previous visits, the area around the windows on the gable balcony featured a gable or some other element that clearly distinguished it from a typical Thai house. This feature is no longer present.

Upon reaching the grandmother, she exclaimed that she had customers. The grandmother and another aunt pointed out another old house nearby, which belonged to a nobleman. The nobleman had a house by the river that had been used for filming several dramas. The speaker recalled the path leading to this location, mentioning that it was at the end of Wat Ratchaniwet and that they had turned right. However, the old house was on the left, requiring a detour. Although the speaker remembered the way, it was quite a distance to go back. The grandmother then pointed out the old house, describing it as an ancient Vietnamese house. The speaker agreed to visit it another time, as it was already afternoon and they needed to return home.

Before leaving, I took a picture of my grandmother and aunt. The two of them smiled and laughed happily, and the person taking the picture also had fun. They were happy together.

Bidding farewell to both of them, I took my leave, promising to return when the opportunity arose. Walking around to the front of the temple, I found the corner unchanged, with vendors setting up their carts to sell their wares. I took a picture, but couldn't see the name sign.

No worries, it's better to hurry back as time is running out today. While walking out to the bus stop to catch the bus to Tha Ratchawarin Pier to go home, I passed by a cemetery and took a moment to pay my respects.

It's time to head back. The timing was as planned. The pictures weren't very pretty, but I got some good stories as usual. Another light trip is over, my day off.

Thank you all for following and good bye.
Sea people

Three-Sén: A Path of Faith