Readme before you journey
Mae Hong Son: A city embraced by happiness...
An Enchanting Escape: Four Days and Three Nights in Mae Hong Son
Nestled amidst rolling hills and verdant valleys, Mae Hong Son unfolds its charm across an area of approximately eight square kilometers. Narrow streets wind through a tapestry of traditional dwellings and modern structures, creating a harmonious blend of old and new. The absence of towering skyscrapers allows for fresh air to permeate the town, while the friendly locals, known for their warm hospitality, foster a sense of community. With its diverse attractions and rich cultural heritage, Mae Hong Son offers an unforgettable escape for those seeking a tranquil retreat.
Day 1: Unveiling the Town's Essence
Our journey begins with a leisurely stroll through the heart of Mae Hong Son, where quaint shops and vibrant markets line the streets. The iconic clock tower stands as a testament to the town's rich history, while the nearby Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu temple offers stunning panoramic views. As the sun begins its descent, we indulge in the local cuisine, savoring the flavors of traditional northern Thai dishes.
Day 2: Embracing Nature's Splendor
The second day beckons us to explore the breathtaking natural wonders that surround Mae Hong Son. We embark on a scenic hike to the Tham Pla - Namtok Pha Suea National Park, where cascading waterfalls and lush forests provide a sanctuary for diverse flora and fauna. The afternoon finds us cruising along the Pai River, marveling at the towering limestone cliffs that rise from its banks.
Day 3: Cultural Immersion
Delving deeper into the cultural tapestry of Mae Hong Son, we visit the Shan Village, where we witness the unique traditions and customs of the local ethnic groups. The vibrant colors of their attire and the intricate patterns of their handicrafts offer a glimpse into their rich heritage. In the evening, we attend a traditional dance performance, mesmerized by the graceful movements and captivating rhythms.
Day 4: A Fond Farewell
As our time in Mae Hong Son draws to a close, we bid farewell to this enchanting town, carrying with us cherished memories and a renewed appreciation for its simple beauty. The warmth of the locals, the tranquility of the surroundings, and the abundance of cultural experiences have left an indelible mark on our hearts.
Conclusion
Our four days and three nights in Mae Hong Son have been an unforgettable journey of discovery. From the charming town center to the breathtaking natural landscapes, from the rich cultural heritage to the warm hospitality of the locals, this hidden gem has exceeded our expectations. As we depart, we leave behind a piece of our hearts in this enchanting town, forever cherishing the memories we have made.
This time, I was invited by an old friend from university. Why did they invite me to visit Mae Hong Son? Just hearing the name makes me feel dizzy and disoriented. I feel like I'm being tossed around by the winding roads. And it's not just any ordinary curves, they're huge, steep, and endless curves.
This time, the trip wasn't too bad because I took a plane from Bangkok to Chiang Mai, and then from Chiang Mai to Mae Hong Son. I heard that there are now direct flights from the capital to Mae Hong Son, so if you're interested, you can check it out. However, the flight back was full, so I had to take a full-curve bus from Mae Hong Son to Chiang Mai, which took over six hours. My joints were stiff from sitting for so long.
Let's get down to business. The main highlight of the visit to Mae Sam Mor is the Poi Sang Long tradition, the province's annual grand merit-making ceremony. However, since we've come this far, let's explore the area thoroughly.
The tradition of Poi Sang Long is described in...
Let me rewind a little... to a time when I was still a young and energetic man, probably more than ten years ago. Back then, I gathered a few friends and we drove north from Bangkok without a specific destination, just for the thrill of it. It was one of the most epic road trips of my life. I remember we left Bangkok late and arrived in Mae Sot in the evening. Hmmm... at that time, we were wondering what to do next. We didn't have much money back then. It was a terrible decision not to stay overnight in Mae Sot. We stubbornly continued driving, thinking we would find a place to stay later, wherever we ended up. But it didn't turn out that way.
I vividly remember this trip because I was the one driving. It was over 400 kilometers, and the darkness was absolute. The roads were incredibly winding, and the isolation was intense. Over the course of the entire night, we probably didn't pass more than 10 cars. That's enough for now; the story is quite long. I just wanted to say that I've been to Mae Hong Son before.
Mae Hong Son Airport…
The plane from Chiang Mai began its descent, flying low and following the contours of the mountains. It was both beautiful and thrilling. We arrived at Mae Hong Son Airport, which is a very cool airport in my opinion. If you come here by plane, you can walk with your luggage and backpack into town without having to use any transportation services like trains, buses, taxis, or Ubers, which saves you money. As it is a small town, as I mentioned earlier, it's great.
Upon arrival at nearly five o'clock in the evening, we paid our respects at Phra That Doi Kong Mu, a sacred landmark of the city, for good luck and a smooth, safe, and enjoyable trip home filled with happiness and fulfillment.
Doi Kong Mu Temple is a symbol of Mae Hong Son and the city's main temple. It is a sacred place where locals regularly come to pay their respects. Visitors must climb to the top to pay their respects. There are viewpoints on both sides of the top. One side offers a view of the entire city of Mae Hong Son, while the other side offers a stunning view of the sunset over the mountains. Today, we watched the sun set over the horizon and said goodbye to our first day here. Tomorrow, we start anew...
A view of Mae Hong Son city...
The other side offers a stunning view of the sunset.
This morning, we have an early appointment to make merit by offering food to monks at the Wish-Fulfilling Bridge, also known as the Sutongpe Bridge in the local Tai Yai language. This wooden bridge, the longest in Thailand, was built through the joint efforts of monks and villagers to connect the Phusama Garden with the Kong Maisak village. It is believed that if one stands in the middle of the bridge and makes a wish, it will come true.
A ten-minute drive from the city center brings you to the Su Tong Pae Bridge. The early morning here is magical, with mist blanketing the rice fields and fresh air filling your lungs. Soon, monks and novices descend from the Suan Tham Phu Sawan temple for their morning alms, creating a picturesque scene. If you're planning a visit, aim for the morning hours to avoid the scorching midday sun.
Buddhist monks and novices descend from the Dharma Garden of Phusama to collect alms...
Walking back to the temple...
After offering alms to the monks, we went up to the Suan Tham Phusama to pay respect to the Buddha and make a wish. We then took a walk to enjoy the atmosphere above. Looking down, we could see the bridge stretching from Suan Tham Phusama to Ban Kong Maisak. The bridge is surrounded by rice fields, creating a beautiful scene. If you come here, you must visit this place.
A collection of photos before ascending to the top of the Phusama Forest Monastery...
A bird's-eye view of the Phusama Forest Park reveals a different kind of beauty: the villagers' way of life, including peanut farming.
Small wooden plaques are provided for writing wishes, which are then hung...
The natural beauty of Suan Tham Phu Sa Ma is truly breathtaking.
Leaving Sutongpae Bridge, we stopped for a quick bite to eat before continuing our journey. Our goal for the day was to stay at a homestay in Ban Pha Bong, which is not far from the city center. It takes about 15-20 minutes by car to reach the homestay. This time, we decided to focus on exploring the area around Mae Hong Son city instead of venturing further out. We wanted to truly get to know Mae Hong Son and experience its essence. Additionally, traveling long distances in this mountainous region can be tiring, especially with the main event, the Poy Sang Long festival, on our agenda. So, we decided to explore the lesser-known places around the city.
The ancient community of Ban Pha Bong has recently become a popular destination for cultural and traditional tourism. However, we'll come back to that later, as we continue our leisurely exploration.
Before entering Ban Pha Bong, we made a quick stop to admire the local treasures at Ban Pa Pu. What can we find there?
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Ready-made clothes from Takinya handwoven fabric…
Ban Pa Pu is a center for weaving traditional Takinnya fabrics. The villagers here are originally Tai Yai, and later some Karen Pwo moved in to live together. It is a coexistence of ethnic groups in the north of the country. The main occupation is agriculture, but the additional income is from selling Takinnya handwoven fabrics, which can generate a lot of income to support families.
Sarong...
According to the locals, unmarried women wear white clothing, while married women wear black.
On the day of our visit, there was a live demonstration of the entire process, from dyeing cotton fibers with tree bark to weaving and selling the finished fabric. This one-stop shop ensures that all proceeds go directly to the producers. If you happen to be in the area, be sure to pick up a piece or two. If not, you can always find their products at OTOP fairs. Trust me, their fabrics are truly beautiful.
The process of dyeing fabric involves boiling tree bark in water to extract the color from the bark...
The raw cotton is then dipped into the dye pot…
Leave it for about half an hour and then dry it in the sun. This completes the dyeing process...
Then, it is woven and shaped into clothes ready for sale.
Extraordinary salesmanship...
The essence of the matter has been circulating for a long time. Let's move on to the next station, Baan Pha Bong Homestay. Today we are sleeping here. We arrived after noon, so we were very hungry. We had Pad Thai first. The locals said it was the best. It was really hot here in the afternoon, so we sat down to rest and enjoy the breeze and sunshine. The view of the rice fields was about to close, so we waited for the sun to set. In the early afternoon, there was another live performance, this time it was peanut oil pressing. It was really worth it to come to this event.
The Pad Thai at Baan Pha Bong is delicious.
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The atmosphere of the rice fields and peanut fields of Ban Pha Bong...
While waiting, my friend asked if I wanted to go out and try another famous local snack. It was called "Lightning Roasted Peanuts." I thought to myself, "Don't they ever let me rest?" But I agreed to go anyway.
The small storefront on the side of the road may not look like much, but it's actually a bustling hub for fresh, roasted nuts. The variety of nuts available is impressive, and the aroma of freshly roasted nuts fills the air. Behind the scenes, a large operation is churning out these delicious treats, ensuring a constant supply of fresh, high-quality nuts.
Freshly roasted, just for you.
Popcorn is also available.
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The product range is extensive…
Mae Hong Son is a city renowned for its extensive peanut cultivation. Consequently, peanut-based products are ubiquitous throughout the region. Roasted peanuts are readily available, and peanut oil is a common culinary staple.
Let's rewind... back to Ban Pha Bong. Don't be confused, just follow along. This time around is so much fun.
Peanuts are prepared for oil extraction...
In the late afternoon, we returned to watch a live demonstration of peanut oil pressing. The process involves grinding peanuts into a fine paste, then pressing, squeezing, and extracting the oil using an antique tool. The interesting aspect of this oil press is its use of a wedge principle, a method that was commonly used by people in the past and was found in almost every household. However, none of these original presses remain today, and only demonstration models, which are newly made, are available for display. It's a shame that some of the ingenious traditional wisdom of the past has been lost.
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Traditional methods for grinding beans...
The peanuts were then pressed using a traditional squeezer, resulting in peanut oil…
Before arriving at the accommodation, we stopped by to see the preparation of offerings for the monks, decorations for the Poi Sang Long festival, by the elders of Ban Pha Bong. It was truly impressive. Here are some pictures to share.
The day is over. I'm tired and hot, but I had fun. I learned a lot of new things. Sometimes, when we travel, we encounter things that we think are insignificant or uninteresting, or we get caught up in the beauty and superficiality of things. But if we turn around and look at the way of life of the community in the past, it can be quite enjoyable.
Let's head to the accommodation. There are various options available. You can choose to stay with a local family for an authentic homestay experience or opt for a private cottage. Our group has booked private cottages, which are equipped with comfortable amenities like waterbeds, ensuite bathrooms, air conditioning, and televisions (although the reception might be spotty). After a long day, it's time to rest and recharge. Get a good night's sleep, and we'll meet again tomorrow. Poysang Long...
A new day dawns bright and cheerful, thanks to a deep sleep the night before. No need to wake up in the middle of the night, no restless sleep due to unfamiliarity with the sleeping environment. It's no surprise that yesterday's adventures left me exhausted. To replenish my energy, I started the day with a delicious bowl of pork congee, the first item on the menu at Baan Pha Bong.
Today's main event is the Poy Sang Long festival, a major traditional festival of Mae Hong Son province. You can follow me here for more information.
A detailed post with beautiful pictures is available at https://pantip.com/topic/37545231.
Leaving the Poeng Sang Long festival at noon, we planned to spend the night at Fern Rim Tarn Resort. However, we still had some time to spare, so we decided to visit Phu Khlon, a mud volcano, and then explore Tham Pla Cave. We continued on to Huay Suea Thao village, where we encountered the Kayan and Padaung people, also known as the "long-necked" and "big-eared" Karen. Their lives have changed significantly, and the village is no longer as bustling as it once was. The number of tourists has decreased considerably. What could be the reason for this decline?
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Stop by the mud volcano...
Come feed the fish at the fish cave for a bit...
NGOs argue that exploiting humans as tourist attractions is unethical and inappropriate. However, the primary source of income for the local community is selling souvenirs and taking pictures with tourists. They are not farmers or agricultural workers, and without tourism, they have no income. It is a complex situation with no easy answers. Ultimately, everyone needs money to survive in today's world.
Regardless of our circumstances or those of others, life must continue its forward progression.
Let's head to our accommodation for the night. Our final night in Mae Hong Son will be spent at Fern Rim Tarn Resort, a resort nestled amidst trees, streams, rice fields, and mountains. The atmosphere is simply breathtaking, offering a full immersion in nature. Located just fifteen minutes from Mae Hong Son town, the resort is situated in Ban Pha Bong. Wherever you look, you'll be greeted by lush greenery. If you're looking to catch the sunset, you can also enjoy the view of the rice fields. It's truly refreshing.
Fern Rim Tharn Resort: A haven of tranquility nestled amidst nature's embrace.
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The room feels like sleeping in the middle of the forest, so refreshing…
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Sunset viewpoint with rice field scenery. I love it!
The morning of our return, it was time to leave. As I mentioned earlier, we arrived by plane but had to return by van. This allowed us to experience the true essence of traveling to Mae Hong Son, which involves navigating over a thousand curves. Otherwise, it wouldn't be considered a proper arrival. We set out at nine in the morning, planning to stop for lunch in Pai. We expected to reach Chiang Mai in the afternoon and then take a plane back to the capital.
A magnificent hot spring...
The journey continues with a stop at the Nong Haew Hot Spring, located approximately 18 kilometers before reaching Pai. This hot spring is a popular destination for tourists, particularly Westerners who often rent motorbikes from Pai to enjoy the warm waters. During our visit, we encountered a group of Westerners and local children playing in the spring.
Warm water is perfect, especially during the winter season...
Head over to Pang Sonii Restaurant for a delicious meal. The food is tasty, the prices are reasonable, and the owners are friendly. After a satisfying meal, take a long nap in the car on the way to Chiang Mai...
Mae Hong Son was a blast this time! I explored the city and its surrounding areas, witnessing beautiful traditions and learning about fascinating and surprising local stories. In short, come visit Mae Hong Son with me!
Farewell, but not goodbye, until we meet again, Mae Hong Son…
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คน ฟ้า ป่า น้ำ
Wednesday, February 26, 2025 4:28 PM
