Stegodon Cave: Tracing the Footsteps of the Ancient World Stegodon Caveoffers a glimpse into the distant past, inviting visitors to retrace the steps of prehistoric creatures.

"Huh, what cave?" is a phrase I hear every time I mention this cave to someone.

Upon first hearing the name of this cave, one cannot help but wonder if it is truly located within the borders of Thailand and why it bears such an unusual name.

The name "Tham Le-Stegodon" originates from the Thai words "Tham Le," which refers to a cave with seawater flowing through it due to the tides, and "Stegodon," an extinct elephant species that lived 1.8 million years ago. The discovery of Stegodon fossils within the cave led to its renaming from "Tham Wang Kluai" (Banana Orchard Cave) to its current name.

Tham Le-Stegodon, located within the Satun Geopark, is the longest saltwater cave in Thailand, stretching 4 kilometers. It was recently designated a UNESCO Global Geopark in April.

To prepare for a visit to this cave, it is recommended to check the water level on the Facebook page "Tham Le Stegodon" or contact the Tung Wa Subdistrict Administrative Organization beforehand. If the water level is too low, the cave will not be open to visitors as it is not possible to paddle kayaks inside.

Once a suitable date has been chosen, a reservation can be made. The Subdistrict Administrative Organization (SAO) typically accepts group bookings of 8 people per day at a cost of 300 baht per person. If your group is smaller than 8 people, you can join another group. However, if there are no other tourist groups on that day, such as in the case of a group of 4 people, you will need to pay a fixed price of 2,400 baht, which works out to 600 baht per person.

The highest water level suitable for visiting the cave was around four o'clock in the afternoon on the day we went. We were a bit worried that it would be dark by the time we finished our tour and came out of the cave, but the staff told us that it would take about 1.5 - 2 hours. If we came out around six o'clock in the evening during the hot season, it would probably not be dark yet.

We arrived at the Tung Wa Subdistrict Administrative Organization around 3:30 PM. The officer who would be our guide for the cave tour led us on a walk through the outdoor learning center, which displayed images and models of the evolution of life in different eras. The accompanying explanations were simple and easy to understand. We then entered the air-conditioned museum building, where exhibits showcased the areas explored and the discoveries made, including fossils of various prehistoric animals. The highlights were the Stegodon fossil, estimated to be 1.8 million years old, and the Elephas fossil, estimated to be 1.1 million years old. Additionally, the site yielded fossils of the ancient rhinoceros genera Genandatherium and Chilotherium, as well as human remains.

The guide also mentioned that fossils of ancient animals are still being discovered in the cave, encouraging us to keep an eye out for them. We might even be the ones to find a new fossil! This news made us even more excited and eager to explore the cave.

After a brief visit to the museum, we had to quickly depart for the cave entrance to begin our prehistoric adventure. Typically, visitors are required to park their vehicles at the local administrative office and take a pickup truck to the cave. However, due to our late start, the staff allowed us to drive our own car and park it directly in front of the cave. The staff vehicle then stopped to pick up the boatmen, who were local residents from the surrounding area.

The road leading to the cave entrance is lined with neatly planted rubber trees, creating a picturesque scene that is hard to resist capturing with a camera.

Upon reaching the cave entrance, the atmosphere was remarkably quiet, with only our group, the guide, and the boatmen present. The cave entrance was a limestone cliff face, adorned with a sign and a statue of a Stegodon, providing a visual representation of this prehistoric elephant species.

Following our guide's instructions, we selected life jackets and helmets to our liking. We then crossed a small suspension bridge and saw four kayaks waiting with paddles. The guide smiled and informed us that today was special. Usually, two people (excluding the paddler) would share a kayak, but today, we would each have our own. We thought it was a great way to distribute income, employing four villagers instead of just two. However, we couldn't help but wonder if the guide had another reason. Perhaps he saw that we were all quite large, and with the low water level, two people per kayak might have resulted in the boats getting stuck on the bottom.

Throughout our time in the cave, the guide insisted that we wear life jackets and helmets at all times, even though the water level was only ankle-deep that day. The guide carried a spotlight to illuminate the path, and each tourist received a flashlight. Therefore, even those who are afraid of the dark can comfortably explore the cave.

The cave is filled with numerous rock formations. During our visit, the water level was low, requiring us to disembark and walk at certain points. Our skilled paddlers pulled our kayaks and assisted us throughout the journey. The cave's interior boasts magnificent stalactites and stalagmites adorned with glittering calcite crystals. Among the captivating formations, we were particularly impressed by the "Angel's Hair," a red stalactite resembling a woman's hair with bangs, the "Waterfall Curtain," the "Royal Seat," the "Coffee Straw Stalactite," and the "Heart-Shaped Stalactite."

As we neared the cave exit, our guide asked if we wanted to experience true darkness. He instructed everyone to turn off their flashlights, and everything around us became pitch black. It was silent and chilling. We held onto the boat's edge, feeling no movement other than the gentle waves. We felt as if our physical bodies had vanished. Some imagined terrifying creatures like the Loch Ness Monster, but strangely, no one felt afraid of ghosts. Perhaps there truly was nothing of that sort in the cave. It wasn't until the guide turned the flashlights back on that we could finally catch our breath.

Approaching the exit, the guide pointed out the fossilized nautilus, or chambered nautilus, embedded in the cave wall. The paddlers took turns rowing us closer to admire the fossil. Although small, it was remarkably well-preserved. However, we were forbidden from touching it to preserve this natural heritage for future generations. Upon reaching the end of the cave, the guide mentioned a cavity that allowed light to filter through. However, as we arrived at the exit late in the evening, we did not have the opportunity to see it. The guide informed us that such tours typically last around one and a half to two hours. However, our group took our time, extending the trip to over four hours. By the time we emerged, it was already dark.

The ascent from the cave was quite steep, making it both difficult and dangerous. The descent was equally steep and slippery, making our legs tremble. While we struggled with our own weight, the officers had to carry the heavy kayaks out. We paddled our kayaks through the mangrove forest on a moonless night, surrounded by an eerie atmosphere and an abundance of mosquitoes.

The tour guide informed us that our group had spent the longest time inside the cave compared to all the other groups he had guided. We were also the first group to exit the cave after dark, prompting the tour operator to call and check on us. Even the long-tail boat operators and pickup trucks waiting to transport us thought they had been tricked into waiting in vain. However, we emerged safely thanks to the excellent care provided by the local government officials and residents of Thung Wa Subdistrict.

The kayak brought us to a large long-tailed boat, which would take us to the shore to catch a pickup truck for another leg of the journey to retrieve our car. This marked the end of our exciting cave-exploring boat trip.