We have visited Amphawa Floating Market in Samut Songkhram Province many times because it is a tourist attraction near Bangkok. It is easy to travel to even without a private car. On our previous visit, we took a one-day trip, which was fun and worthwhile, but we returned home exhausted from traveling, shopping, and sightseeing all day. This time, our visit is special because we will be spending two days and one night in Amphawa. Let's see what makes it special...

Places to visit and activities in the trip

  • Mahachai Market: Visit Sei Ped Yang Restaurant for roasted duck
  • Mae Klong Market (Umbrella Market)
  • Morning alms offering to monks
  • Boat trip to pay respects to Buddha and watch fireflies
  • Wat Khay Bang Kung
  • Wat Bang Kaen Noi
  • Wat Thong Kuang
  • Amphawa Floating Market
  • Bang Noi Floating Market

Traveling by train

Our journey was by train, which was a rather complex mode of transportation. Careful planning was required, as it involved two transfers and two lines: 1. the Wongwian Yai - Mahachai line and 2. the Ban Laem - Mae Klong line. The Ban Laem - Mae Klong line only has four round trips per day, so if you miss your desired trip, you will have to wait a long time. Therefore, it is advisable to plan your trip carefully.

Train Trips We Recommend:

  • 7:40 AM train from Wongwian Yai to Mahachai
  • 10:10 AM train from Ban Laem to Maeklong

Bus Schedule

Wongwian Yai - Mahachai Line

  • Schedule and Fares


  • Schedule and fare for Ban Laem - Mae Klong Line

Thank you for the information and images from the State Railway of Thailand.

For a detailed guide on traveling by train from Victory Monument, please refer to this review: Detailed Guide on Traveling by Train from Wongwian Yai to Amphawa.

Wongwian Yai Railway Station - Mahachai

Wongwian Yai Station offers a wide variety of shops, including restaurants, cafes, dessert shops, and convenience stores. I enjoy the spicy chicken rice salad sold at the shop near the station entrance. It's a great option for grabbing a bite to eat while exploring the area. The free train service is no longer available. The current fare from Wongwian Yai to Mahachai is 10 baht. After purchasing your ticket, wait for the train to arrive at the platform.

This railway line runs close to residential areas. Please be careful when taking photos or leaning out of the windows (it is actually not recommended). The train will stop to pick up passengers at small stations along the way. There are a few seats to wait at some stations, while others on the Ban Laem - Mae Klong line resemble bus shelters.

  • Face the front of the train (towards Mahachai) and sit on the right side to avoid the sun.

According to the train schedule, this train will arrive at Mahachai Station at 08:39 AM, taking approximately 1 hour. However, today the train is running more than half an hour behind schedule. Please allow extra time for this delay.

1. Mahachai Market

Seafood lovers, rejoice! Mahachai Market offers a wide variety of fresh and processed seafood, along with an abundance of fruits, vegetables, and delectable treats. Among the many culinary delights, the "Lod Chong Wat Chetuphon" stands out as a personal favorite. This refreshing dessert, typically priced at 80 baht per small bag in Bangkok, can be found here for a more affordable 60-65 baht.

Roasted Duck

Checking the time, there was still time to grab a bite to eat. I happened to see a post from a junior on Facebook that there was a delicious duck rice shop near Mahachai Market. It took a while to find it, but for those who want to be quick, I recommend opening Google Maps and following the directions. It's the same way I got here.

Roasted Duck with Rice In addition to duck rice, there is also red pork and crispy pork rice. We ordered a mixed dish to try a variety of things. The duck meat was not tough and did not have a strong smell. The crispy pork was very crispy and made a satisfying crunch when you bit into it. The taste was good and the price was 50 baht.

Ferry to Tha Chalom Pier + Train connection at Ban Laem Station

After exiting Mahachai Railway Station, turn right and walk through the market until you reach the pier on your left. If you have time, you can visit the City Pillar Shrine. Every year, there is a grand procession for the City Pillar Shrine, which is the only one in the province. However, we didn't have time this time because we were enjoying the market a little too much. When we checked the clock, there were less than 15 minutes before the train departed, and we hadn't even crossed to Tha Chalom Pier yet. We quickly paid the 3 baht boat fare and sat down, feeling a bit anxious, waiting for the boat to depart. The ferry here can also carry motorcycles.

The distance from Tha Chalom Pier to Ban Laem Railway Station is walkable. However, due to time constraints, a motorbike taxi for 15 baht is recommended. Alternatively, for those who prefer not to walk and are not in a hurry, a three-wheeled vehicle is another option.

We have 4 minutes left before the train departs. The ticket to Maeklong costs 10 baht. This train line is popular with foreign tourists because it passes through the "Umbrella Market," an Unseen Thailand tourist attraction.

The train journey offers scenic views of salt fields and mangrove trees. We once spotted monkeys climbing the mangroves, but we're unsure if they still exist. The railway tracks have significantly improved, and the dust from the construction is no longer present.

2. Maeklong Railway Market (Umbrella Pulldown Market)

The Umbrella Market is located just before the Maeklong Railway Station. After passing Bang Krabun Station, the train will slow down. Be sure to secure a spot near the window. The train runs through the middle of the market, where vendors will fold their umbrellas and stow their goods before the train arrives and before it departs. Some vendors use wheeled stalls that can be rolled in and out. In one day, vendors have to do this 8 times. Tourists waiting to watch the train pass through the market below will stare and take pictures of the train. Smile and wave your hand for a celebrity-like feel.

The train arrived on time. A benefit of taking this train is that if you want to see the train depart from the station through the Umbrella Market, you only need to wait 20 minutes. There will be a train departing from Mae Klong Station to Ban Laem Station at 11:30 AM. We used this time to walk around the Umbrella Market and find a safe place to watch the train.

As the train departs from the station, vendors quickly pack up their stalls. Even after witnessing this scene countless times, a sense of excitement still washes over me. Soon, the train speeds through the market and returns to Ban Laem Station. I once read that the umbrella market has another name: "the market of death."

*** Caution ***

While on the train:

The train runs close to houses and shops. Do not extend any objects or body parts outside the window, as this may cause injury.

Traveling by Songthaew to Accommodation

While waiting on the train tracks: Observe the distance vendors maintain from the tracks. This is the safe distance you should stand at while waiting. Take photos with awareness and avoid reckless behavior. As there may not be sufficient staff supervision, ensure you take care of yourself and follow the instructions of local residents.

Follow the train tracks and find the exit on the left. You will see Thanachart Bank. Next to the bank is a shared taxi stand. If you want to go to Amphawa, you can take a shared taxi here. However, to be sure, ask the driver before boarding because the colors of the shared taxis are similar. The one that took us to our accommodation is parked opposite the bank. It is a blue shared taxi with the words "Wat Pramot" written on it. Tell the driver that you are going to "Baan Nam Pern Resort". You can also open Google Maps to be sure. The fare is 16 baht.

Baan Nam Pern Resort

"Baan Nam Pen Resort"

Nestled in the Bang Khonthi district, approximately 6 kilometers from the Amphawa Floating Market, lies "Baan Nam Pen Resort." This small-scale resort boasts a tranquil and intimate atmosphere, embraced by the serene banks of the Mae Klong River.

The resort's owner, the amiable Ms. Ben, warmly welcomes guests and ensures a comfortable stay. Upon inquiring about the meaning of "Nam Pen," Ms. Ben explained that it signifies "a living river," reflecting the vibrant lifeblood that flows through the resort's surroundings.

The detached houses are divided into 9 units, each named after a word that begins with "water". The houses are named "Water One", "Water Diamond", "Water Clear", "Water Fresh", "Water Kindness", "Water Flow", "Water Cold", "Water Rain", and our house is called "Water Sky".

Each house has a balcony in front, some houses share a balcony like a connecting room. The walkway in front of the house is connected, suitable for families to stay. One house can accommodate 2 people and can add 1 extra bed. There are 2 types of beds: King size bed (single bed room) and Twin bed (double bed room). The room we stayed in was a double bed room. The room is spacious, has a place to sit and put luggage, and the space is well-organized. There are enough power outlets for guests.

Coffee, Ovaltine, drinks, and snacks placed in the room are complimentary.

Essential amenities are provided, including towels, hangers, a hairdryer, a kettle, a TV, and air conditioning.

The bathroom features a small garden view for relaxation during private moments, with a curtain for privacy. The shower offers two types of water pressure, both of which are very gentle. The bathroom is equipped with shower gel, shampoo, and conditioner.

Guests arriving by private car can park inside the resort. The resort gate will be closed at night for security purposes.

This venue offers a small conference room that can accommodate up to 30 people. The room is equipped with meeting facilities, including a projector and sound system.

The resort boasts lush greenery, providing a cool and refreshing atmosphere. Despite the abundance of trees, the area remains uncluttered thanks to the meticulous care of an elderly gentleman who diligently maintains the grounds. The picturesque surroundings offer ample opportunities to capture stunning photos for your Facebook updates.

The waterfront features a pavilion and seating areas, offering a scenic spot to enjoy a meal or relax with a refreshing breeze. Guests are welcome to bring their own food and drinks. The venue also provides catering services, complete with barbecue equipment and karaoke facilities.

The atmosphere of the house at night was peaceful. We ate the food we bought from the Amphawa Floating Market at the table by the pier. Ben told us that it was very quiet at night, so much so that there is a joke that you can hear someone fart from the other side of the river. The atmosphere was indeed quiet, so much so that we could hear the sound of cats meowing from the other side. As the accommodation is located by the river, there are a lot of mosquitoes. If you come out to sit and relax at night, please bring mosquito repellent.

Morning Alms Giving Ceremony

In our imagination, when we think of Amphawa, we think of offering alms by boat. If you stay here and want to offer alms in the morning, please inform us in advance. The resort will prepare an alms set for 60 baht. I must inform you that the way of offering alms here is different from other places. The monks will not accept envelopes of money and will not give blessings. Don't be surprised if the monks paddle away after receiving the alms. After receiving the alms and before the morning meal, the monks will chant blessings. If the monks are invited to other activities, they will not be able to receive alms.

Gazing at the pier of the neighboring house, I saw an elderly woman waiting to offer alms. This scene deepened my understanding of the phrase "water is life." The river is the lifeblood of this community, and the way of life here is inextricably linked to the Mae Klong River.

Although it is a small resort, the breakfast is very generous. There are two main dishes to choose from: fried eggs and shrimp porridge with plenty of shrimp. My friend and I ordered one each. Ben told us that if we were not full, we could have more. Wow...

In addition to the two main dishes, there were deep-fried dough sticks served with condensed milk, stuffed pastries, toast with strawberry jam and orange marmalade, butter, coffee, soy milk, and orange juice. A comfortable sleep followed by a hearty breakfast is a great way to relax.

The details of room rates, breakfast, extra beds, and other services are shown in the picture below. Prices differ between weekdays and holidays. For long weekends, please contact the resort for pricing.

Address: 3/1 Roong Heeb Subdistrict, Bang Khon Thi District, Samut Songkhram Province 75120

Line ID: bnpresort

Email: [email protected]

Facebook: Baan Nam Pen Resort - Boat Trip to Market and Temple

This post advertises a boat trip to a market and temple, offered by Baan Nam Pen Resort. The resort's Facebook page can be found at the provided link.

Boat tours are available from Ban Nam to various resorts. Passengers can choose their desired destinations. The boat drivers, who are carefully selected by the resort owners, are highly skilled and ensure a safe and comfortable journey. Each boat can accommodate a maximum of 14 passengers. For groups of 1-2 people, it is recommended to inquire with the resort about joining other groups. The cost is 400 baht per person or a flat rate of 1,200-1,400 baht for the entire boat.

Market 3: Bang Noi Floating Market (Wat Ko Kaeo)

The first location is "Bang Noi Floating Market," a century-old market situated at Wat Ko Kaew. Historically, this bustling market served as the largest sugar trading center in Samut Songkhram Province. However, with the shift towards road transportation, Bang Noi Floating Market faded into obscurity. The current market, established in 2014, aims to revive the traditional way of life while preserving its historical significance.

We enjoyed the food here because it offered a variety of dishes that were different from other markets. More importantly, the prices of food and other goods were affordable. The shops were wooden shophouses lining the canal. On the day of our visit, I was feeling unwell, so I stopped by a pharmacy in the old market that has been open for over 80 years to buy some lozenges. For those who love bolster pillows made of "khit" fabric and decorative pillows, there were many styles to choose from at very affordable prices. If it weren't for the fact that we were returning by van, I would have bought a bolster pillow made of "khit" fabric to hug at home.

Bang Noi clothing shops offer unique and beautiful banana rubber printed shirts, unlike anything you've seen before. For those who prefer Thai fabrics, there are ready-made sarongs, tie-dye shirts, and indigo-dyed shirts available in a variety of styles and from numerous shops.

As mentioned, there is a wide variety of food available in the market, especially noodle dishes. There are all kinds of noodles, including crab noodles, tom yum lemon noodles, yen ta fo, red pork noodles, pad thai, shrimp baked with glass noodles, and kway chap. Is this a floating market or a noodle market? From my survey, the cheapest noodles are 20 baht.

After asking locals for recommendations, we decided to try some of the must-try dishes in the area. Our first stop was "Ole Noodle Shop," a popular spot for pork noodles, cold noodles, and tom yum soup. With both indoor and riverside seating, the restaurant was bustling with customers. We ordered the cold noodles, which our friend found a bit underwhelming. However, the crispy fried dumplings were a delight, with no greasy aftertaste. The noodles cost 35 baht, and with the dumplings and a drink, our total bill came to 67 baht.

"Pad Thai Fire Explosion"

This restaurant comes highly recommended by locals. The name's origin is quite dramatic: a gas explosion occurred, and the owner, a resourceful woman, escaped by jumping into the water. The story even made the news (whispering: we haven't been able to find the article yet, if anyone has it, please share the link). They offer Pad Thai, oyster omelets, and Vietnamese spring rolls. The restaurant is located near the pier, with bright pink tablecloths that are hard to miss. Pad Thai costs only 30 baht and comes with shrimp. The taste is exceptional for the price, and the noodles are perfectly chewy. We devoured everything!

For café enthusiasts, the market offers a variety of beverage options. We took a break at "Eighty Four Coffee," which boasts more waterfront seating than other establishments. They offer ice cream, tea, coffee, and smoothies. We opted for a refreshing strawberry yogurt smoothie, which was delightful. The prices are consistent with those of contemporary cafés.

"The 'Ancient Toast' stall is located near the cafe where we were resting. The uncle meticulously spread the filling on the bread, telling us that he made the Thai tea and pandan fillings himself. We tried the Thai tea filling, and it was truly delicious. The Thai tea flavor was rich but not overly sweet."

This local eatery proudly presents its signature dish, the "Teochew Roti," a unique delicacy unavailable elsewhere. The recipe, passed down through generations within the family, can only be found at Bang Noi Floating Market. Featured on numerous television programs, the stall offers a front-row view of the preparation process. The friendly owner engages customers in conversation while expertly crafting each roti. The dish consists of a chewy dough sheet, peanuts, brown sugar, and sesame seeds, exuding an enticing aroma of caramelized sugar and sesame. The taste resembles a crumbled "Krayasart" dessert, making it a delightful snack. Three pieces are available for 20 baht.

After we were full, we looked for a spot to take photos. The wooden bridge crossing the canal is located almost at the end of the night market and is beautifully lit. We passed by it on a boat on our way back from watching the fireflies. If you happen to be in the area in the evening, stop by and take some photos.

Choose your level of spiciness...

In addition to food and necessities, Bang Noi Floating Market also houses the "Setthim Museum", a museum dedicated to jars and antiques that serve as evidence of past lifestyles. Most of the exhibits were collected from the Mae Klong River, which, as mentioned earlier, was once the largest sugar market in the province. You can see the real sugar molds here for free. It is open to the public on Saturdays and Sundays.

Additional Information: Open every Saturday and Sunday from 9:00 AM to 8:00 PM.

Facebook: Bang Noi Floating Market, Bang Khon Thi, Samut Songkhram

Transportation:

From Ban Nam Pern Resort:

  • Guests can utilize the resort's boat service for transportation.
  • The resort owner kindly offered to transport guests to the market in the morning.

From Amphawa:

  • Blue songthaews (shared taxis) pass by Wat Ko Kaeo temple.
  • Motorbike taxis and blue songthaews are available near Wat Ko Kaeo for those wishing to visit the Amphawa Floating Market.

Wat Khai Bang Kung

The highlight of this temple is the ancient chapel, which is covered by Bodhi, Banyan, and Peepal trees. To pay respect to Luang Pho Nilmani, visitors must dress appropriately and follow the rules posted on the signs. These rules include, for example, refraining from gilding the Buddha statue and taking photos outside the chapel.

Across the street is the riverside temple area, which has a small zoo with camels, sheep, crocodiles, fallow deer, goats, buffalo, ostriches, etc. You can buy food to feed them.

Wat Bang Kaen Noi

This is the translation of the Thai phrase "วัดบางแคน้อย" into English.

The temple features a magnificent, intricately carved teakwood ordination hall. After paying respects to Luang Pho, we spent a considerable amount of time admiring the murals on the walls. We had the opportunity to chat with the monk who oversees the ordination hall. He was very engaging and offered us some rice pudding that he had made himself. He generously allowed us to take some home with us and even offered us accommodation at the temple with the other nuns if we needed it. It was a truly heartwarming experience that left us feeling at peace.

Wat Thong Khung

The last temple recommended by the boatman was Wat Thong Kueng, which is over 200 years old and houses the largest Luang Pho To statue in the Mae Klong River basin. The boatman told us that Luang Pho To is very sacred and encouraged us to go up and pray for blessings by participating in a fortune-telling ritual involving lifting an elephant statue.

The 4th Market: Amphawa Floating Market

After paying respects at the temple, our uncle dropped us off at the Amphawa Floating Market. We agreed to meet him around 7 pm to go firefly watching. However, due to the long holiday weekend and the rain, the market was crowded. We decided to buy some food and take it back to our accommodation.

There is a wide variety of restaurants to choose from, both on land and on boats. Seafood, desserts, and souvenirs are available. The restaurants have seating areas by the water, but space is limited. It gets crowded in the evenings. If you want to eat here, we recommend coming between 2:00 PM and 4:00 PM.

Additional Information: Open every Friday, Saturday, Sunday, and public holidays. We have visited on weekdays and found some vendors, but the selection is not as extensive as on weekends.

Transportation:

  • From Mae Klong Railway Station: Take a blue songthaew from the queue near the Thanachart Bank.
  • From Bang Noi Floating Market: Take a motorbike taxi or blue songthaew from the pavilion opposite the temple.

Fireflies at Khlong Kwae Om

  • Take a boat tour to see the fireflies at Khlong Kwae Om.

This is my first time watching fireflies in Amphawa. If you walk around Amphawa Floating Market, there will be tours to see fireflies for 60 baht per person. When the appointment time arrived, the uncle came to pick us up to see the fireflies at Khlong Kwae Om. Since the firefly watching point at Khlong Kwae Om is farther from Amphawa Floating Market than other viewing points, there are not many boats taking tourists in. The houses in that area turned off the lights, making the fireflies quite visible. Some Lamphu trees had so many fireflies that they looked like Christmas trees. Many people might wonder if the fireflies are real. We can only say that there are real ones that can fly. We also have a short clip to share with you. Please follow the link below.

Click here to watch the firefly video

Traveling back to Bangkok by van

After checking out, we revisited Bang Noi Market and took a songthaew to Amphawa Floating Market. After buying souvenirs, look for the bridge where cars can cross. Near the parking lot next to the bridge, there is a van queue back to Bangkok. The destination is Sai Tai Mai, Pinklao.

Impressions of this trip

"Baan Nam Sai Resort" offers a truly relaxing experience. The resort is peaceful and quiet, with no noise disturbances at night. All necessary amenities are available, and the houses and equipment are in good condition, clean, and have cold air conditioning. The resort is also conveniently located near tourist attractions. As there are only a few houses, the staff is able to provide attentive service. The owner is friendly and knowledgeable, and can offer helpful advice and information about the area.

Boat tours and temple visits: If you purchase a tour from the floating market (without chartering a boat), you must visit the temples designated by the tour operator. However, Baan Nam's boat tour service offers a more personalized experience. You can discuss your desired temple visits and agree on the time spent at each location. While this option is more expensive, it provides greater flexibility in choosing your destinations.

The firefly watching activity was exciting. Putting aside the question of whether the fireflies were real or not, we were impressed by the abundance of fireflies in the Lamphu tree. Seeing them with our own eyes at that moment was truly beautiful. Overall, we believe it is an interesting activity that is worth experiencing at least once.

If you read from the beginning to the end, you will know that a one-day trip by train requires a lot of energy. The highlight of this trip is staying overnight at "Baan Nam Pen Resort" for one night, which allows us to explore more places, spend more time at each location, visit new attractions, and avoid travel fatigue. We feel relaxed. Try a 2-day, 1-night trip to Amphawa. A relaxing getaway not far from Bangkok.

For more information about the accommodation, please contact:

Baan Nam Pen Resort

Follow our journey at:

KeepGoing Thailand

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