Maeklong & Damnoen Saduak Floating Market - Maeklong Railway Market and Damnoen Saduak Floating Market

While most Thai people perceive fresh markets as largely similar, certain markets stand out for their unique characteristics. In this travel review, I would like to present another option for those with limited time (one day or half a day) from Bangkok: the Maeklong Railway Market, also known as the Umbrella Pulldown Market or the Death Railway Market.

Transportation to Amphawa Floating Market

Train:

• Route: Wongwian Yai Railway Station - Mahachai
• Duration: 1 hour
• Fare:
  • Ordinary train: 10 baht
  • Air-conditioned train: 25 baht
• Schedule:
  • Wongwian Yai to Mahachai: 5:30, 6:25, 7:00, 7:40, 8:35, 9:40, 10:40, 12:15, 13:20, 14:25, 15:25, 16:30, 17:05, 17:35, 18:35, 19:10, 20:10
  • Mahachai to Wongwian Yai: 4:30, 5:20, 5:55, 6:25, 7:00, 8:00, 9:35, 10:40, 11:45, 13:15, 14:25, 15:25, 16:00, 16:30, 17:35, 18:10, 19:00

Ferry:

• Route: Mahachai Pier - Ban Laem Pier (Tha Chalom)
• Frequency: Every 15 minutes
• Fare: 3 baht

Train:

• Route: Ban Laem Station - Mae Klong
• Duration: 1 hour
• Fare: 10 baht (ordinary train only)
• Schedule:
  • Ban Laem to Mae Klong: 7:30, 10:10, 13:30, 16:40
  • Mae Klong to Ban Laem: 6:20, 9:00, 11:30, 15:30

Van:

• Route: Bangkok (Mo Chit or Southern Bus Terminal) - Mae Klong
• Frequency: Regular departures
• Fare: 80 baht (from BTS Bang Wa to Amphawa)
• Schedule:
  • Mo Chit to Mae Klong: First van at 5:30 AM, last van at 8:00 PM
  • Southern Bus Terminal to Mae Klong: First van at 5:30 AM, last van at 6:30 PM
  • BTS Bang Wa to Amphawa: First van at 7:00 AM

Note: You can also choose to visit the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market first, which is accessible by van from Bangkok.

Upon reaching the city center of Mae Klong, take a shared taxi to Amphawa Floating Market, Bang Noi, Bang Nok Khwaek, and Damnoen Saduak. At the bus terminal, you can choose a van to other destinations as needed. The last bus from Mae Klong to Bangkok departs at 7:00 PM.

Tourism in Samut Songkhram province still has many interesting places, but due to limited time, I will only share my experiences of the Maeklong Railway Market and Damnoen Saduak Floating Market in this review. This trip was made by private car, but I have provided rough travel information for those who want to travel on their own. This morning I arrived at the Maeklong Railway Market about 20 minutes before the train arrived, so I had the opportunity to walk around the market next to the railway.

This place sells a wide variety of fresh produce.

The squid looks truly delicious.

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This restaurant also serves grilled frog.

With approximately 5 minutes remaining, an announcement will be made at Mae Klong Railway Station to prepare for the arrival of a train.

The shop is starting to pack up.

The shopkeepers quickly packed up their goods, and the crowd had to retreat inside. It was time for the train to arrive, almost 8:30 am.

I then walked to the station.

Collapsible umbrella market

Located along the Maeklong Railway, a century-old railway line, the Maeklong Railway Station has been in operation since 1901. In the past, eight trains ran daily to Maeklong Station. However, with the development of road transportation, road travel has become more prevalent, replacing train travel. Consequently, the number of trains on this line has decreased to only four per day.

Around 1984, when the market next to the railway was renovated, vendors began to move their stalls closer to the tracks. Initially, there were only two or three vendors, but this number has grown to approximately 250 today. Due to the proximity of the stalls to the railway tracks, vendors must retract their awnings and move their stalls when trains enter or leave the station. This unique characteristic has made the market known to both Thai and international tourists as the "Umbrella Folding Market." It is a market that stands out from others due to its location along the railway tracks and the practice of folding umbrellas. Originally, vendors used ordinary umbrellas, but due to the difficulty of folding and unfolding them, they have now switched to canvas awnings. The trays for displaying goods have also been developed into sliding rails for easier movement.

The Mae Klong River and ferry crossing.

After experiencing the vibrant atmosphere of the Maeklong Railway Market, we continued our journey by car to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, which took approximately 20 minutes.

This location offers long-tail boats and paddle boats for tourists.

The History of Damnoen Saduak Floating Market

The Damnoen Saduak Floating Market: A Historical and Cultural Gem

The Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, bestowed its name by King Rama V, stands as a testament to human ingenuity and perseverance. This meticulously crafted waterway, the longest of its kind in Thailand, owes its existence to the vision of King Rama IV, who envisioned a canal connecting the Mae Klong and Tha Chin rivers to facilitate trade and transportation.

The canal's construction, a testament to human labor, took over two years, spanning the late reign of Rama IV and the early reign of Rama V. Stretching approximately 32 kilometers, the Damnoen Saduak boasts an intricate network of over 200 smaller canals.

The market itself, affectionately known as "Khlong Ton Khem" by locals, has witnessed a fascinating evolution over the past three decades. Originally situated at Khlong Lat Plee, the market thrived at the confluence of the canal and the Damnoen Saduak, directly opposite its present location. A vibrant tapestry of boats laden with fresh produce from local orchards filled the waterway, creating a bustling scene where one could traverse the canal by stepping from boat to boat.

Between 1971 and 1973, Khlong Lat Plee experienced a golden age, buzzing with trade and attracting a diverse clientele, including international tourists. However, the construction of an artificial canal between Khlong Lat Plee and the Damnoen Saduak, intended as a tourist attraction, proved unsuccessful. This marked the decline of the authentic floating market, which has been absent for over two decades.

The present-day Damnoen Saduak, while a captivating echo of its past, is essentially a carefully curated representation of the original market. Nonetheless, its historical significance and the presence of vendors selling fresh produce, sourced directly from their orchards or local markets, imbue it with a genuine charm. The Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, a century-old testament to human endeavor and cultural heritage, continues to captivate visitors with its unique blend of history, commerce, and local flavor.

Activities at Damnoen Saduak Floating Market

Explore the Dry Market: Browse a variety of food and handcrafted goods offered by vendors on land.

Boat Tour: Immerse yourself in the local life along the canal. Choose from paddle boats (400 baht) or long-tail boats (600 baht) for a 45-minute tour that includes visiting gardens and observing the production of fresh palm sugar.

Financial Services: Krungthai Bank and Bank of Ayudhya offer currency exchange and rate information.

A boat ride is a delightful experience.

Surrounding map

Scenic viewpoint

Sailing and enjoying the view is a unique way to experience the sights.

One day has passed, and it's time to return to Bangkok.

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