At the Edge of the Axe... in Tak Bai

"For a long time, we were deceived by images of violence in Tak Bai. It was only when we came to experience it ourselves that we realized Tak Bai has much to offer."

We traveled by train, the "Thaksin Rattanakun" express, departing from Hua Lamphong and arriving at our final destination, Hat Yai Junction.

Upon arriving in Hat Yai, we were greeted by the group and immediately set off for Tak Bai. This was another trip where I wasn't traveling alone. We arrived at the meeting point with the Tak Bai Tourism Community at Wat Chalotharasinhe, also known as Wat Pitsak Phaendin Thai, just after 1 pm. Upon arrival, we had lunch first. The local food was delicious, especially the Khanom Chan.

The Historical Significance of Wat Chalotharasinghe in the Demarcation of the Thai-Malaysian Border

The historical significance of Wat Chalotharasinghe in the demarcation of the Thai-Malaysian border cannot be overstated. During the period when Malaya was a British protectorate, the British attempted to annex Narathiwat Province into their colonial territory. However, Siam cleverly countered this attempt by using Wat Chalotharasinghe as a key argument in their defense.

Siam claimed that Wat Chalotharasinghe, a temple deeply rooted in the cultural identity of Tak Bai district, served as a testament to the long-standing presence of Thai Buddhists in the region. The temple's intricate architecture and valuable artifacts, they argued, were a clear indication of Thai cultural influence and could not have been constructed by foreigners. This claim, coupled with the significant Thai Buddhist population in Tak Bai, ultimately persuaded the British to recognize Narathiwat as a Thai province.

As a result, the four southernmost districts of Thailand were spared from becoming part of Malaysia. This historical episode highlights the crucial role that cultural heritage can play in shaping national boundaries and preserving national identity. The preservation of Wat Chalotharasinghe stands as a testament to the resilience of Thai culture and its enduring impact on the region's geopolitical landscape.

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The sentence is already in English and does not require translation.

The sentence is already in English and does not require translation.

After exploring the community and listening to the guide's explanation, we continued to the ordination hall, which showcases the Rattanakosin architectural style. The triple-tiered roof is adorned with intricate stuccowork depicting the god Indra riding the three-headed elephant Airavata. The interior boasts murals painted by a Songkhla monk, featuring scenes of celestial beings, the life of Buddha, and local customs and traditions.

The sentence is already in English and does not require translation.

The sentence is already in English and does not require translation.

Exiting the ordination hall, one arrives at the pavilion by the Tak Bai River. Built in 1915 during the reign of King Rama VI, it served as a resting place for the king during his visit to observe boat races on the river. Today, it has been restored as a recreational and educational tourism destination.

After enjoying the scenery, we arrived at the Ko Roi Pier, which runs parallel to the old wooden bridge connecting Tak Bai to Ko Yao.

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Crossing over to the shore of Koh Yao, the community guide assured us that it is a safe place where people live together as brothers and sisters, even though they follow different religions. The must-visit spot for taking photos is the flagpole on Koh Yao beach. The community guide mentioned that the flag is changed every month, but due to strong winds, it is currently torn, as you can see.

Afterward, we returned to Wat Chalotharasinghe, where the community welcomed us as visiting tourists with a wrist-tying ceremony. This took place on the veranda of the old abbot's quarters.

After the wrist tying ceremony, it was time for dinner prepared by the community. We ate and chatted happily. (Apologies for the poor image quality.)

During our homestay experience with the Tak Bai tourism community, our large group was divided into separate sleeping quarters for men and women, located a short distance apart. The sleeping arrangements were as follows:

On the second day of the trip, the community took us to Badi Tea Shop, the oldest and most famous shop in Tak Bai. This place is like a coffee shop for the community. Come and listen to the people in the community talk, come and experience the way of life here, come and listen to the hundreds of thousands of baht singing.

After enjoying a delicious meal, we crossed the century-old Saphan Khoi Bridge to Koh Yao Island. From there, we embarked on a boat journey to witness the daily life along the banks of the Tak Bai River, culminating at the Thai-Malaysian border.

Upon disembarking, we witnessed the locals preparing tobacco leaves before our departure. They employed a traditional smoking method to dry the leaves, infusing them with a unique aroma from the smoke used in the process.

He then went to see the chicken coop weaving at Uncle Bua's house. Uncle Bua can weave 2 baskets a day and sells them to Malaysia for 700-1,000 baht per basket.

The unique feature of Uncle Bua's house is that it is a traditional house of Tak Bai. The roof is made of bricks ordered from Koh Yo. Currently, there are only a few houses left because the bricks are expensive and difficult to maintain.

Uncle Buan, who is ordained as a monk, taught us how to weave chicken coops. We then went up to the house to chat with his wife, whose name I have unfortunately forgotten. She was very kind and explained the history of the old house in Tak Bai. She showed us photos of herself when she was young, and we were able to see the way of life in the past through these photos and her stories.

At Uncle Bua's house, the Tak Bai tourism community has prepared Thai desserts and pandan leaf water for everyone. It is fragrant, delicious, and refreshing.

After leaving Uncle Bua's house, we had lunch at a delicious noodle shop in Tak Bai. The food was truly delicious, with a strong and spicy flavor. The desserts were also very tasty.

After a hearty meal, we took a "cholay" (motorcycle with a sidecar) to Wat Bang Noi. This temple is also very beautiful. The abbot was busy with his duties and could not join us in the church.

Seeking knowledge in weaving "Sewian pots" from palm leaf stalks. Auntie Kaew skillfully crafts various items, which she typically sells in front of her house, attracting daily customers.

After leaving Wat Bang Noi, we returned to the homestay to participate in a pastry-making activity. We helped each other wrap and grill the pastries. I was assigned to the grilling section, and I realized it wasn't easy. If I turned them too early, they wouldn't be cooked through, and if I turned them too late, they would burn. It took a while to get the hang of it, and we wasted quite a few pastries before we were able to eat them. The pastries were made by a famous aunt in Tak Bai.

After enjoying activities throughout the day, it was time for some free time to explore the local community market.

Upon arriving at the homestay, a turmeric rice-making machine was already waiting. Turmeric rice is typically consumed during the rainy season to warm the body. The dish contains a variety of herbs, which are pounded together in a mortar and pestle. The mixture is then combined with fragrant pandan rice, served with mackerel, and drizzled with budu sauce.

On the last morning of our trip, we realized we had forgotten to book our return tickets, so we had to stay another night. We started the new day by watching the sunrise at the Saphan Koei Roi Pee Bridge.

We crossed over to the beach of Koh Yao, as we thought it would be a beautiful spot. The community guide assured us it was safe, and we were able to capture these images during a period of overcast weather.

I returned to find everyone waiting for me, their legs dangling carefree (but secretly fuming that I had walked out on the group. Sorry for being stubborn and naughty).

A simple breakfast at the market near the border crossing into Malaysia, where we had fun walking around and bought another sarong.

Before everyone went their separate ways, they all went to raid a shop selling premium dried gourami, a premium souvenir priced at 1,600 baht per kilogram. The packaging method is also extremely premium, with no odor, allowing it to be carried on airplanes.

It's time for lunch. The community brought us some grilled gourami to try. It's seasoned with lime juice, shallots, and chili, and served with hot fragrant jasmine rice. The aroma alone is enough to make it delicious. Both the gourami and the jasmine rice are dishes that were served to Her Royal Highness Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn.

The large group has already left. Our community took us for a walk in the Ao Manao-Khao Tanyong National Park.

On the way back, we visited the fragrant jasmine rice fields in Ban Khok It-Khok Nai.

On our last morning in Tak Bai, we first stopped to replace my lost ID card, which I had misplaced while in Hat Yai. Afterwards, we took a leisurely stroll through the town of Tak Bai to explore its sights.

It's time for the van to pick me up and take me to Narathiwat Airport. On the way back, I have a Thai Smile ticket.

Another great trip! The Tak Bai tourism community is amazing. They took great care of us, even though we were more mischievous than the others. Thank you for taking care of us, showing us around, and teaching us about everything. We apologize for being so naughty and mischievous.

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